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Old 04-30-2011, 10:12 AM   #8416
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebrick View Post
what seat are yall using for long distance touring? i did 250 miles the other day and after about 30 miles i was hurting. im not big but the seat seems too narrow.
The Seat Concepts comfort seat is just a little bit wider and firmer than stock. It comes as a kit with the foam and cover you install on your own base. Price has increased recently to $160 - but still well worth every penny IMO.

No connection - just a satisfied customer: www.seatconcepts.com

There is only one shape available for the DR350 (they have tall and low seats for some models I think) but options for foam and cover materials. I got the firm foam and a seat with carbon-look sides and a gripper top during an ADV group buy a few months ago. I was quite comfortable after an all-day 225-mile ride whereas I was standing up every few minutes after more than about 50 miles with the old seat.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:09 AM   #8417
clab04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerst View Post
Good guess Deanman, as I found it on the floor at the rear of the bike, after starting and idling (ie: it fell off due to vibration). I agree it's a spacer/bushing but I appears these side covers don't use spacers or the other side is missing too
It is the center of one of your rubber gromits.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:14 AM   #8418
clab04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdavis View Post
I'll check the running voltage later today.

Lights do not run with the engine off, but that's what I would expect with capacitor vs. battery. Am I incorrect in that assumption?

Should the system work at all with no cap/battery installed?

The capacitor appears to be 5600 UF. It sounds like you're saying this is too small for this application?

Thanks.

Yes. That is only 5.6kuf. If you do the math you will find that you need somewhere between 8k-16kuf minimum. Trail tech sells them. I believe it is 25kuf. Be careful with that thing. They can give a nasty shock.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:36 AM   #8419
Pablo83
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Wow, that's a big cap. Here are the notes from my cap install

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=125

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdavis View Post
I'll check the running voltage later today.

Lights do not run with the engine off, but that's what I would expect with capacitor vs. battery. Am I incorrect in that assumption?

Should the system work at all with no cap/battery installed?

The capacitor appears to be 5600 UF. It sounds like you're saying this is too small for this application?

Thanks.

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Old 04-30-2011, 01:07 PM   #8420
mgdavis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
Wow, that's a big cap. Here are the notes from my cap install

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=125
Interesting. In your application you used a much smaller capacitor, but seem to have gotten better results than I am seeing. Do capacitors have a service life?

I threw the Fluke meter on my capacitor terminals while running. The highest voltage I saw was 11, I'd say the average voltage was closer to 8 at idle, 9 at 5000 rpm.
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:12 PM   #8421
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdavis View Post
Interesting. In your application you used a much smaller capacitor, but seem to have gotten better results than I am seeing. Do capacitors have a service life?

I threw the Fluke meter on my capacitor terminals while running. The highest voltage I saw was 11, I'd say the average voltage was closer to 8 at idle, 9 at 5000 rpm.
Those voltages seem too low. You should be seeing somewhere around 13.0 to 13.5V at above 2-3000 rpm.

To eliminate the capacitor as the source of your problem, disconnect and check the resistance across it. Once it has charged (from the meter), you should see infinite resistance.
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 04-30-2011, 02:43 PM   #8422
mgdavis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Those voltages seem too low. You should be seeing somewhere around 13.0 to 13.5V at above 2-3000 rpm.

To eliminate the capacitor as the source of your problem, disconnect and check the resistance across it. Once it has charged (from the meter), you should see infinite resistance.
The meter showed infinite resistance between the terminals. There was no apparent charging from the meter, the reading displayed instantly.
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:17 PM   #8423
bikingreenie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerst View Post
Hi, I'm doing some basic maintenance on a 99DR 350se for a friend. I need some help identifying an extra part ! So far I have removed or fiddled with:
seat
gas tank
carb
air box to carb boot
battery
clutch lever
throttle cables
I put it back together enough to start, she runs great with a clean carb, and found this on the floor. Length=18mm diameter=9mm anyone know where it goes? Free beer to the first to correctly identify it (you have to come to my house to claim your prize).



Looks like a sleeve from the gas tank mounting rubbers, can't tell how big it is...small one at rear mounts, bigger ones at front mounts. (It goes into a rubber grommet, acts as a sleeve for the mounting bolt.)
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:43 PM   #8424
bikingreenie
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DR 350 timing- CDI

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3uba296 View Post
Check the timing between the crank and the cam shaft. Mine was a little off when I bought it and I also experienced a early rev limiter. Donīt know at wich RPM since I donīt have a tachometer.
I've checked that, I've checked almost everything (that I and my friends can think of) . Just had the coil tested at the bike shop...

It is pre-detonating at higher rpm's. You can hear pre-detonation when I hold the camera up by the engine.
CDI unit?? Here's what it sounds like...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfWkbU3_wLA

Any ideas, anyone know if the CDI could do this?
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:47 PM   #8425
hajime
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstuckey1 View Post
Here are some photos of the T-vent mod.
Mine does that too. Thanks for the photos. Easy fix!
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:57 PM   #8426
Memnok
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Location: Turlock, Ca
Oddometer: 347
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
My DR350 with stock carb was running great. Parked for a month, then went on ride today. When I pass 5800rpm in I get a complete stutter/shutdown/hesitate. If I am hard on the throttle in 1-4 I can blow through and power up to 7500rpm.

What will cause this? Vacuum leak or dirty carb?


Check the vent for the tank; make sure a vacuum in the tank is not starving the carb of fuel. Then bring it over and we'll pull it all apart.
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Old 04-30-2011, 07:00 PM   #8427
hajime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikingreenie View Post
I've checked that, I've checked almost everything (that I and my friends can think of) . Just had the coil tested at the bike shop...

It is pre-detonating at higher rpm's. You can hear pre-detonation when I hold the camera up by the engine.
CDI unit?? Here's what it sounds like...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfWkbU3_wLA

Any ideas, anyone know if the CDI could do this?
You sure the jets are clean? I can't see through mine without a magnifying glass, But then I'm old. Can you blow air through them? Any little bit of crud in your pilot jet could cause the backfiring.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:25 PM   #8428
Gerst
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikingreenie View Post
Looks like a sleeve from the gas tank mounting rubbers, can't tell how big it is...small one at rear mounts, bigger ones at front mounts. (It goes into a rubber grommet, acts as a sleeve for the mounting bolt.)

Good thought, the tank has rear rubbers and both sleeves are in. They are longer than the "extra" one, I don't see any in the front

On a side note does anyone know how much and what weight fork oil goes in a 99se?
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:28 AM   #8429
Alli
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Location: South Africa
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Bushing

Hi Gerst.
the left over bushing is most probably from the rear fender.
The two grommets are hidden beneath the tail light cover, that is probably why you can't find the original spot.
check out attached pics.
Attached Images
 

Alli screwed with this post 05-01-2011 at 03:30 AM Reason: adding info
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:59 AM   #8430
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdavis View Post
I threw the Fluke meter on my capacitor terminals while running. The highest voltage I saw was 11, I'd say the average voltage was closer to 8 at idle, 9 at 5000 rpm.
Disclaimer - I'm not a charging system engineer. People who are may feel free to correct me.

Your rectifier/regulator doesn't put out a pure DC voltage. It is a series of pulses of voltage with space in between them. Most DC meters measure the average of these pulses and the spaces between them. With no battery and a too small capacitor you could reasonably expect to see the voltages that you measured.

A battery or capacitor stores the pulses and uses the stored energy to fill in between the pulses to make a "smoother" DC voltage.

If you charge the capacitor to 12 volts and put a load such as your lights on it the 12 volts drop to about 4.5 volts in one "time constant". One time constant = RxC where R is the resistance of your load in ohms and C is the capacitance in farads.

If the lights draw about 3 amps and the voltage is 12 volts, R=3 ohms. With a 10000 uf. (.01 farad) cap the time constant is .03 seconds.

This means that if you charged the capacitor from your car battery and then connected it to you bike the lights should light for somewhat less than .03 seconds.

Using some more math and rules of thumb this means that for your system with a 10,000 uf. capacitor to make a fairly smooth voltage it would need about 10 pulses per revolution from the alternator.

I don't know what the number of pulses per rev is. It is determined by the niumber of poles in the rotor and the number of coils in the stator. Maybe someone with a scope would like to measure that and share with us.

You could replace your capacitor with a battery and see if the voltage goes slightly up as you rev the bike. If it does then that suggests that your charging system is working and you need a bigger capacitor or a battery.

BTW if you are using the capacitor to save weight, you might consider that for MOST of us there is much greater potential for weight reduction on the rider than on the bike.
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