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Old 06-09-2012, 03:39 PM   #12151
EvilGenius
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How do you adjust the cam chain tensioner?

I can't find any reference to it in the Clymer.
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:47 PM   #12152
MeterPig
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Who makes that tank and rear rack?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tachedoutoffroad View Post
Got tired o wrecking my SM on the powerlines.

Got this little trail whore this morning. Riding tomorrow!

1995
6500 miles
4.2 gallon tank



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Old 06-09-2012, 05:05 PM   #12153
jplum1556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius View Post
How do you adjust the cam chain tensioner?

I can't find any reference to it in the Clymer.
It's an automatic cam chain tensioner.
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Old 06-09-2012, 08:13 PM   #12154
Tachedoutoffroad
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Believe it's an IMS.

Rack is homemade.

Riding tomorrow! See how she does.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:43 AM   #12155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
The thing about the one-way fuel tank vent is that it also prevents gas from spilling out when you drop it.

For some reason I never had a problem with the stock tank. But then I got the acerbis tank with the dirt bike style vent tube. I crash the bike pretty good on a hill climb and could not pick up the bike immediatly. I think I watch about 1/2 a gallon of gas pour out the vent line before I was with it enough to get the bike upright. Still have not really figured otu a solution to this, other than don't crash.
My Clarke gas cap leaked badly when the bike was taking a dirt nap. I bought a one-way vent and it still leaked around the threads of the gas cap. A quick trip to the hardware store for a rubber seal fixed the problem. After testing the seal for a few trips, I glued the seal to the cap. Voila! A free breathing tank that doesn't pee the bed when sleeping.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:01 AM   #12156
rubberband
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius View Post
How do you adjust the cam chain tensioner?

I can't find any reference to it in the Clymer.
You can adjust it manually. one click.....

http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-fa...cct-636-a.html theory is the same....someone once posted a video from youtube....but I can't find it.
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:26 PM   #12157
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband View Post
You can adjust it manually. one click.....

http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-fa...cct-636-a.html theory is the same....someone once posted a video from youtube....but I can't find it.
Get out...that really work on our bikes? you'd figure that if it was to tight to go to the next click by itself, that it'd be to tight to do it that way. Has anyone on here done it?
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:42 PM   #12158
MrPulldown
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Back from my weekend in the desert. Wheww did a lot of riding, about 100 miles a day. Suspension works good for the bumps and is quite a bit stiffer (98RM250). Hitting small bumps is very plush, as are rollers and whoops. Though I did not have it set up properly for the whoops so that I could hit the series of whoops and have the forks eat them up. They got "stacked up" on. Rebound too slow and compression not quite enough.

Did notice that the longer forks messed with the geometery a bit. The front wheel is lighter and the front end tends to wash out when pushed. Esspically in sand. When cornerering if you moved your body forward it would help. We had two DRs to compare, with the other SE having not only stock suspension but sagged front forks, the front was a lot more grippy. Might preload the rear a little more.

NEver bottomed the fork out, but you can feel the valving. If I hit something hard, like the edge of dry creek cossing, it was not the typical supple hit like when using the first half of the travle. It had a diffenet harshness to it, but it was not bottomed outed. There was quite a diference at higher speeds being confident to hit obsticals without slowing and staying in control. The stock DR forks could not compare in this aspect.

The rear shock I never even noticed. It was able to jsut follow along (Dirt shock, new oil). The old 94+SE shock would bottom out and be noticeable.

Here is a little video of riding on the Playa.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEB8uYN2Ejc
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:37 PM   #12159
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Did notice that the longer forks messed with the geometery a bit. The front wheel is lighter and the front end tends to wash out when pushed. Esspically in sand. When cornerering if you moved your body forward it would help. We had two DRs to compare, with the other SE having not only stock suspension but sagged front forks, the front was a lot more grippy. Might preload the rear a little more.
I measured the difference between the stock DR forks and my RM replacements and dropped the triples down the RM forks to the original height , problems all went away .

I also fitted a WER steering damper and while not the glory name of Scotts or Ohlins it does a fantastic job on my DR and is the simplest thing to work on , about all they ever need is a couple of O rings and a fluid change .
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:27 AM   #12160
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
Get out...that really work on our bikes? you'd figure that if it was to tight to go to the next click by itself, that it'd be to tight to do it that way. Has anyone on here done it?
I've had a bike where the tensioner would not auto adjust when it was getting near the end of its travel. The resulting camchain "thrashing" noise just told you it was time for a new chain. I would not do what was suggested in that video as I'm pretty sure it would result in an over-tight chain, leading to premature wear of several components (even though it would probably be quieter for a while)
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:10 AM   #12161
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
I've had a bike where the tensioner would not auto adjust when it was getting near the end of its travel. The resulting camchain "thrashing" noise just told you it was time for a new chain. I would not do what was suggested in that video as I'm pretty sure it would result in an over-tight chain, leading to premature wear of several components (even though it would probably be quieter for a while)
Agreed. The Suzuki workshop manual provides details on how to check the cam chain for wear as well as how to install the automatic cam chain tensioner. Turning an automatic cam chain tensioner into a semi-manual cam chain tensioner seems to be a very bad idea and one that would lead to more wear on the chain, gears, bearings, and chain guides.

It would have been nice if Suzuki were to have provided a procedure (and minimum value) for evaluating that cam chain life by checking the available remaining length of the tensioner (essentially, remove the tensioner bolts and allow the tensioner to fully extend, then push it back in and measure the resulting clearance between the tensioner body and the cylinder). Alas, they did not. I know when I fit a new chain and gears (reusing the original guides that showed next to no wear), that I still didn't have a whole lot of clearance (though the length of that push rod makes one think there should be inches of room! :> ).

I have a friend with a DRZ400 who read the internet woes regarding the automatic cam chain tensioner. He fit a manual cam chain tensioner to ward off such "wide-spread" disasters. He didn't quite keep up with the manual chain tensioner adjustments during a long trip, skipped a cog or two, and munched his engine.

Regards,

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Old 06-12-2012, 10:45 AM   #12162
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
I measured the difference between the stock DR forks and my RM replacements and dropped the triples down the RM forks to the original height , problems all went away .

I also fitted a WER steering damper and while not the glory name of Scotts or Ohlins it does a fantastic job on my DR and is the simplest thing to work on , about all they ever need is a couple of O rings and a fluid change .
THere were many times that a steering dampener would have come in handy. Hitting sandy gravel sections at 60 mph and getting "speed wobbles".

When I measured out my RM forks, they were 1.5 inches longer than the stock DR's. I dropped them a little more than half inch in the triples. I would have liked to drop them 1.5 inches but there is that tapered section which would not grab in the triple clamp due to the reduced diameter. I suppose I can drop them a little more and jsut have a smaller diameter section in the clamp area that is not grabed. Make sense?? Is this what you did?
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:24 AM   #12163
Rode2Nowhere
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Got thorough the Roaming Rally on the mightly little DR.

4 days, 1068 miles, and 80 of my closest internet biker buddies . And I beat the freaking crap out of this thing for the 2 middle days.







Couldn't get any more than 70 out of it in the gravel! (bone stock)



not my pic, but stole it 'cause it's awesome.


... and my homemade Giant-Loop-Coyote-ish-type-bag made it through flawlessly!


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Old 06-12-2012, 11:50 AM   #12164
Rode2Nowhere
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Big bore kit

For any big-bore kit users, is there any vibration reduction at high RPM? Didn't know if the piston was lighter than stock or not. On the long slab home from the trip, my feet were numb from hours of sitting on the vibrating pegs. Its amazing what a difference between 55 and 60mph can make. No vibration at all at 55.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:06 PM   #12165
Hotmamaandme
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Rode2Nowhere
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Stillwater (next to Saratoga), NY
Oddometer: 1,900



Nice pics looks like a blast! I want one of your loop bags for my 350. Got a link to the ride report?
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