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Old 07-01-2012, 10:10 AM   #12346
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
I think the OP said he had swapped the carb for a known-good one. If a proposed solution doesn't also explain the tach, it's unlikely IMO.
Unless it has two different problems. Not likely, but possible, and hard to diagnose. Also check for loose/dirty ground connections.

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Old 07-01-2012, 10:34 AM   #12347
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
Cant seem to get my 1998 DR350 running properly after washing.

I drove it 4700mi cross country, ran perfect the whole time. The day after I got home, I washed it with a garden hose and toothbrush. It will not rev out now. It will start, and run with throttle. It feels like there is a load on the engine.

I have already:

Replaced sparkplug, checked airfilter, gone through carb, swapped CDI, swapped coil.

I have my buddys DR350 here for a swap bike

Absolutely no change with the attemeted above.

Also, the tach stopped working as well at the same time.

Any ideas guys?
Have you checked the connection to the battery. The termials develop a crack over time and can lead to the issues you mentioned. This has happened to both me and my buddies DR's.
Another thing to look at is the spark plug cap. The resistor might have gone bad.
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...g_resistor_cap
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:00 PM   #12348
Airvent
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Battery terminals are good, plug cap was swapped with the coil, known working. Went through the carb thoroughly, spotless. Slide has good dampening, so the diaphragm is good as well. Checked my valves this morning and they were within spec. I'm clueless right now

Symptoms:

It seems to almost backfire through the intake slightly. My Dad tells me this is a timing issue and is pushing for me to open up the magneto cover.

Again, it feels like there is a great amount of resistance on the engine when I try to rev it. Will not rev high. Will not idle without throttle.

Still no tach too.
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:01 PM   #12349
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Drain hole in exhaust muffler?

My OEM exhaust muffler has just been sandblasted. The process created some small holes which I have filled with JBweld. But now I'm wondering if one of them might have been a drain hole?

I can't take a photo just now, but it's on the forward-facing side of the main muffler bit, nearly an inch below the circular weld where the thin pipe joins the muffler and very close to, but just on the outer side of, the weld which runs along the bottom.

If anyone knows I'd really appreciate.
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:48 PM   #12350
EvilGenius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
Battery terminals are good, plug cap was swapped with the coil, known working. Went through the carb thoroughly, spotless. Slide has good dampening, so the diaphragm is good as well. Checked my valves this morning and they were within spec. I'm clueless right now

Symptoms:

It seems to almost backfire through the intake slightly. My Dad tells me this is a timing issue and is pushing for me to open up the magneto cover.

Again, it feels like there is a great amount of resistance on the engine when I try to rev it. Will not rev high. Will not idle without throttle.

Still no tach too.
Haven't been reading before this page.

Do you have a stock petcock, is it leaking?

Does the vacuum tube that goes to the diaphragm housing have a leak?

I had both those issues and it wouldn't rev above 3-4krpms.

If it's not an ignition problem, it sounds like the diaphragm isn't opening the slide and there's possibly excess fuel leaking in from somewhere and you're having to open the throttle to let in enough air to keep running (sort of).

I've had old carbed car engines backfire through the intake due to too much fuel coming in.

This is just a guess.
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:50 PM   #12351
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Anyone know what the stock mirror thread measurements are or what swaps into the stock mounts?

Our DR250 needs new mirrors and I figure it might be neat to swap some sporty lookin ones on there.

Also, any tips on removing the exhaust bolts that go into the head?

I'm going to need the to remove the exhaust soon to pull that side of the case off, but I've never done it before and from the looks of the exhaust it hasn't either. I don't suspect it'll be as easy as soaking it in deep creep, but maybe I'm just a bit too morbid?
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Old 07-01-2012, 04:48 PM   #12352
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Free DR350 (dirt model only) brake lever. Geniuses at the dealer didn't bother to ask if I had the SE or the dirt model.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:11 PM   #12353
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Howdy! I've been lurking around this thread for sometime and finally decided to find myself a DR350. This may be the wrong place to ask buying advice, but i thought you all would be the best people to ask. Plus since i am going to get DR350, I might as well get to know you all. I found a DR350 locally that was beautiful ('96, clean, 10,200 miles, electric start, new clutch, new fork seals, new breaks, ect..) for $1,600 but the bike sold before i even had the chance to call the owner.

So i kept looking and found a 1991 DR350S. It looks like it is in decent shape, but the main turn off is that It has 17,300 miles! I don't know if that is a deal breaker or not. From what i have read these engines are pretty bullet proof when taken care of. It does have new handle bars (not sure of the brand), new led turn signals (eh), new 3 tooth larger rear sprocket, and it just had a full tune up and service, but it does need a new front rotor. The guy wanted $1,500 but i talked him down to $1,300, in my opinion that is still a bit too high, but i don't know much about these DRs. So, what do you all think, should i haggle it down a little more, be a man and pay the $1,300, or avoid the bike entirely? Any advice would be great!

Here's some pictures of the moto..







PS: If i have broken any rules or done anything wrong, please let me know!
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:42 PM   #12354
devo2002
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First and foremost, welcome to the asylum

To me if it is in pretty darn good shape, which is hard with 17K unless he did minimal offroad, it is worth $1,000 tops with a good rotor. Then can go much farther but you are right, it all depends on the maintenance, does he have any other records? Personally since I am not a great wrencher I'd wait, there are some around in good shape, you just have to wait and the majority of them were snatched up in spring. If you are patient you will get a good deal. If you have time to kill then perhaps wait until fall, people tend to get rid of them for cheaper then.

As a gauge, mine was 2K for a 99 in basically new condition just a few months ago. A bit high on price perhaps but with 4.5K and running smooth I just took it. The 98-99 s models have the upgraded suspension. It also came with new pro taper bars (the guy definitely never dropped it as it has no scratches and stock signals), sturdy hand guards, gel seat, and rack. It is rare but you can get a good stock one in the $1,700ish range.

I finally broke her in to some good dirt this weekend, definitely a great bike.

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Old 07-01-2012, 06:01 PM   #12355
stromsurfer
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Kickstand

Any idea if a DR650 kickstand is the same as the DR350. I need one but can only find ones from a DR650. Thanks
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:12 PM   #12356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
First and foremost, welcome to the asylum

To me if it is in pretty darn good shape, which is hard with 17K unless he did minimal offroad, it is worth $1,000 tops with a good rotor. Then can go much farther but you are right, it all depends on the maintenance, does he have any other records? Personally since I am not a great wrencher I'd wait, there are some around in good shape, you just have to wait and the majority of them were snatched up in spring. If you are patient you will get a good deal. If you have time to kill then perhaps wait until fall, people tend to get rid of them for cheaper then.

As a gauge, mine was 2K for a 99 in basically new condition just a few months ago. A bit high on price perhaps but with 4.5K and running smooth I just took it. The 98-99 s models have the upgraded suspension. It also came with new pro taper bars (the guy definitely never dropped it as it has no scratches and stock signals), sturdy hand guards, gel seat, and rack. It is rare but you can get a good stock one in the $1,700ish range.

I finally broke her in to some good dirt this weekend, definitely a great bike.
I just called him and asked about any maintenance records, he said he has no records and did the tune up himself.

I think you have the right idea, i'm gonna wait and see what pops up. Especially since 10 minutes ago a DR350S was posted that has 1,200 miles! He wants $1,800obo, so i'll have to call him, get some details and talk that down.





Thanks for the reply/advice devo! Also, beautiful DR. Looks like you had some fun.
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:14 PM   #12357
EvilGenius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoss350 View Post
I just called him and asked about any maintenance records, he said he has no records and did the tune up himself.

I think you have the right idea, i'm gonna wait and see what pops up. Especially since 10 minutes ago a DR350S was posted that has 1,200 miles! He wants $1,800obo, so i'll have to call him, get some details and talk that down.





Thanks for the reply/advice devo! Also, beautiful DR. Looks like it was well worth the $2,000!
Looks a bit older, but if you could talk him down a little, I think it'd be a good deal with the big tank, nice bars and frame protectors.
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:41 PM   #12358
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No problemo, you sure are pretty handy with emoticons for your second post

Post a pic up when you get one or if you have any more questions, you did nothing wrong by posting up.
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:26 PM   #12359
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkent02 View Post
I looked at Ohlins site, no mention of anything for a DR 350. Do you know a part number for it? Planning on swapping forks, if that's what it takes. Which RM forks do you have?

A steering damper sure seems to make sense.

Sending Dave an email...

Thanks.
I would call Ohlins Mate , they had a special on them a while back and maybe have some out back but in all reality get a hold of Dave he is excellent in coming up with suspension solutions and I feel sure could come up with valving and springs for your rear end along with sorting out the front end once you find an RM replacement .mine is from a 98 I believe.
The thing is folks believe changing the front end will be the magic trick but unless it is stacked and valved correctly for you and your riding style you will be disappointed and curse spending the money , the thing is with the twin chamber RMs is that it allows for a lot of options and these options Dave knows how to fiddle until you get the results you are looking for.
I was dead lucky with the set I got as they were close to what I was looking for and a tweak here and there had me in rocky single track heaven , my Sherco however was too far out for me to play with and that's where Dave at STM suspension came into his own .
He turned that bike into something I had only dreamed of having as far as handling and suspension
went.

On another note , go for the WER damper , I mounted a Scotts on
Mine and it was a pain in the friggin ass!
The WER might not have all the bells and whistles as the fancy "gotta have" ones but they do an excellent job on a DR along with easy mounting .
I yank the Scott's off mine and went back to a WER I had laying around , much better mounting solution and works just fine , also one hell of a lot cheaper!
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:37 PM   #12360
_CJ
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Tool kit

Kind of a long shot, but does anyone have an extra DR350 factory tool kit they're willing to part with? Please respond via PM, as the last time I posted looking for something, some dirtbag snaked it out from under me.
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