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Old 09-13-2012, 04:58 PM   #13066
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
The typical airbox modification that I've heard of is a 3 x 3 inch square hole cut in the top of the air box (or perhaps 4 x 4?). You can "undo" a cut airbox by taping over the top, epoxying on a new top, etc. With a bit more effort, you could even create an original sized circular hole into which you could fit the original snorkel tube (two different snorkels were used, one for pumper carbs and one for CV carbs). If you are wanting top fuel mileage, get an original air box, snorkel, muffler, jetting, needle, etc.

Air very much cares how it is blocked, funneled, etc. Suzuki engineers could have very easily and cheaply clamped on an air filter to the body of the carburetor. They would not have had to design that big inlet tube, the airbox, the snorkel, etc. It would have been a much simpler design to manufacturer. But, they went to those lengths for reasons. I do not pretend to know all of the reasons, but I suspect engine performance improvement and noise reduction were two of the reasons. Does a taped over cut airbox differ significantly from an original uncut airbox? I dunno. But there is more than ample evidence that *how* air moves through an engine matters: all the way from the start of the airbox to the tip of the exhaust.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Jesse's mod is about 3x4





"These are instructions for modifying the stock air box on a Suzuki DR350. Rejetting goes hand in hand with this mod. Performing either the rejetting or air box mod alone will make your bike run worse - if it runs at all. Performed together they will make the bike easier to start and include a noticeable HP increase as well!"



http://www.kientech.com/AirBoxMod.htm


He recommends this with a 140 Mikuni Main, (but I think mine is a 137.5)

I have an FMF exhaust and replaced my needle with the adjustable one from Jesse. Also installed his adjustable fuel/air screw, but I can't remember how many turns out I set it. All of this can vary depending on your altitude and the quality of your fuel.

The key point is that the fuel and air coming IN and the exhaust going OUT have to be balanced, or tuned correctly. You can't open the airbox without increasing the fuel (and gettin more power and less mpg)


You can always give Jesse a call and talk it over with him. http://www.kientech.com/ He's a GREAT guy and always willing to talk about the mighty DR350.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:41 PM   #13067
Ghostyman
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Question In the excitement of messing up my knee, I forgot about this...

On the last longish (1k miles) trip I took my '90 DR350S on, I had a few problems that I forgot about until just now because they kind of disappeared.

First, it kept popping into false neutrals between gears. I'd always be able to put it back into gear and it never happened twice in a row on shifts. This was the first time it had done it in the 6k miles I've owned it. The oil was a mix of 5-30 and 20-50 car oil (I tried to get as close to 10-40 as I could by mixing weights). It only happened on the off road portions of the trip but probably happened 20-30 times in 300 miles of dirt.


Second, it died on the freeway one time. I had been riding around 70-75 mph for a while when it just died in gear. It didn't try to start from engine compression and I had to clutch in and coast to a stop. While I was coming to a stop, I released the clutch a few times to see if it would start and got nothing. After sitting for a few seconds, I was able to kick it started and it rode fine for 150 miles of freeway until I got home.


So... false neutrals, died once. Help?
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:17 AM   #13068
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
On the last longish (1k miles) trip I took my '90 DR350S on, I had a few problems that I forgot about until just now because they kind of disappeared.

First, it kept popping into false neutrals between gears. I'd always be able to put it back into gear and it never happened twice in a row on shifts. This was the first time it had done it in the 6k miles I've owned it. The oil was a mix of 5-30 and 20-50 car oil (I tried to get as close to 10-40 as I could by mixing weights). It only happened on the off road portions of the trip but probably happened 20-30 times in 300 miles of dirt.


Second, it died on the freeway one time. I had been riding around 70-75 mph for a while when it just died in gear. It didn't try to start from engine compression and I had to clutch in and coast to a stop. While I was coming to a stop, I released the clutch a few times to see if it would start and got nothing. After sitting for a few seconds, I was able to kick it started and it rode fine for 150 miles of freeway until I got home.


So... false neutrals, died once. Help?
With regard to the false neutrals, I'm guessing you might want to check the shift drum bolt. If it has come loose, you might get symptoms like this.

It is my understanding that mixing oil weights is not as simple as averaging numbers. I don't think that was your trouble here at all, though. Were you stuck needing oil and that was the best you could get?

It is hard to guess on the dieing in gear one time. 70 - 75 mph is pretty fast for our mighty DRs. Could be any one of a number of simple things: gas tank vent, petcock not letting enough fuel in, *maybe* something electrical. If it has run fine ever since, I'd wait for a repeat performance before trying to diagnose the problem.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:55 AM   #13069
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post

Seems like my needle and seat have recently detoriorated, or worn to the point of leaking fuel. Never was an issue before, as I have both insepcted the carbs innards, and left the fuel on. Oh well. Guess we all get old.
That what I thought too, but the problem was fixed by replacing the o-ring that holds the needle jet in place. Part 17 here http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...oup/CARBURETOR
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:59 PM   #13070
mustangwagz
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Updates, but no pictures yet... Tire and tube is all plumbed up. New rotor is partially on..lol Couldnt find anymore bolts so i gotta goto store tomorrow. (i found my stash of hardned Button head allen bolts) 2 of the originals came out fairly easy, but kinda messed up the hex's so imma replace them. the other 2, i had to find a junk box end wrench (double ended kind..) and weld em to bolts. worked great! THANKS GREG! So tomorrow ill get new bolts and put in my bearings...then it'll be time to rip some shit up! muhaha!


On another note, for comical relief, i manged to bash myself in the side of the knee today with a 12lb sledge..why? well accidently of course..haha. Lemme say, i did everything except cry and pass out..but i was close to both of those actions. haha. shortly after i wacked myself, i had to sit down..then lay on the ground cuz i got dizzy and sweaty...Holy Fuckin crap, it hurt...and still does! hahah. I cant wait to see how bad it hurts tomorrow! Of course i got usual response of QUIT BEING A PUSSY from my fellow collegues, but all eneded fairly well. lol i can still walk on it..well..if you call it walking? Kinda looks like i'm trying to "Pop, Lock, and Drop it" or "Drop it like its hot" or some other kinda fancy pimp walk. but none the less, its still walking...or hobbling...or limping...or something..DOH!! lol

HIgh-Oh Silver, AWAAYYY!!!...........

-WagZ-
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:12 PM   #13071
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Eh?

Yeah everyone loves updates... I had my bike laying around since july or something. Today I got the engine back together with a new cam chain and clutch. The damn spark is lost... Managed to get it every once in a while for one single kick. Never two in a row
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:51 PM   #13072
RuggedExposure
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Has anyone wired in a hidden security switch for a DR350?

I feel uneasy leaving my bike in a parking lot for more than 15 seconds knowing that anyone can kickstart it and take off.
I'm thinking maybe a toggle switch hidden in the frame that disconnects the power wire to the spark plug?

Any pics of this done before?
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:23 PM   #13073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Has anyone wired in a hidden security switch for a DR350?

I feel uneasy leaving my bike in a parking lot for more than 15 seconds knowing that anyone can kickstart it and take off.
I'm thinking maybe a toggle switch hidden in the frame that disconnects the power wire to the spark plug?

Any pics of this done before?
Splice in a switch on the main juice wire. When its off no power will flow
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:25 PM   #13074
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Going to look at a DR tomorrow for my brother, what numbers should I be looking for on a compression test?
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:32 PM   #13075
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Has anyone wired in a hidden security switch for a DR350?

I feel uneasy leaving my bike in a parking lot for more than 15 seconds knowing that anyone can kickstart it and take off.
I'm thinking maybe a toggle switch hidden in the frame that disconnects the power wire to the spark plug?

Any pics of this done before?
You could tap off the killswitch wire and install a toggle switch or simple keyswitch connected to ground. A simple, light-weight cable lock might be better, however, as it will also prevent someone from pushing the bike away and you can also use it to lock your helmet and/or jacket.
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:51 PM   #13076
_CJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Has anyone wired in a hidden security switch for a DR350?

I feel uneasy leaving my bike in a parking lot for more than 15 seconds knowing that anyone can kickstart it and take off.
I'm thinking maybe a toggle switch hidden in the frame that disconnects the power wire to the spark plug?

Any pics of this done before?
I just bought one of these for the same reasons. Not going to stop a few guys with a pickup from tossing the bike in the bed, but should stop anyone from rolling off with the bike.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch

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Old 09-15-2012, 04:43 AM   #13077
tonusmaximus
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[QUOTE=_CJ;19598648]I just bought one of these for the same reasons. Not going to stop a few guys with a pickup from tossing the bike in the bed, but should stop anyone from rolling off with the bike

Just make sure to remember to take it off youself or attach a length of say yellow 550 cord to it and clutch lever. Im a bit slow about remembering sometimes when I get excited and jump on my bike.

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Old 09-15-2012, 05:21 AM   #13078
plugeye
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Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Has anyone wired in a hidden security switch for a DR350?

I feel uneasy leaving my bike in a parking lot for more than 15 seconds knowing that anyone can kickstart it and take off.
I'm thinking maybe a toggle switch hidden in the frame that disconnects the power wire to the spark plug?

Any pics of this done before?
removed the stock keyed switch & had a concealed rocker switch only on my dr650 for years. just study the schematic if your electrically comfortable
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:04 AM   #13079
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman View Post
Going to look at a DR tomorrow for my brother, what numbers should I be looking for on a compression test?
It might be hard to get an accurate reading on a compression guage. If it's a model with the "automatic compression release" it might not work, and if it has the manual compression release you still gotta kick the darn thing to get a reading. Might try towing it, but a PITA. From my experience, in general, If compression gets below 100psi it won't start and run good. above about 175psi and you gotta start to worry about gas quality ratings/detonation and temps. Somewhere around 125psi to 150psi should be about right, but I don't know how you're gonna run the test. On a car you can just pull a plug, screw in the gauge, and crank it with the starter. Might not work with the DR though. Probably best indicators are how it starts and runs, cold and hot.
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:57 AM   #13080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman View Post
Going to look at a DR tomorrow for my brother, what numbers should I be looking for on a compression test?
Arabic , Roman #s, would be a bitch to read .
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