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Old 09-19-2012, 11:46 AM   #13096
maxslack
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Athens, GA
Oddometer: 43
My new "Baja 1000" 1990 DR440S needs love!

SWEET!!!!









I got this bike last night from a really vague CL ad. The PO said he got it from his cousin in California who raced it "a long time ago" in the Baja1000 and barely finished with a clapped out engine. Last year he put a Pro-Cycle 440cc kit in it and freshened up the head and bottom end as well as putting on the edelbrock quicksilver carb. Turns out he injured himself and couldn't finish the project, so in I step!

It has a lot of nice bits on it. Suspension is by "Pro-Action" out of CA, nice billet top triple, bars, throttle, badass oldschool Supertrapp, 4.4 gallon tank, and best of all, old school UFO plastics!

I'm gonna ditch the Edelbrock and put an old DR350E TM33 that Greg Bender sold me on it. Any guesses on jet sizing?

I'd like to put the airbox back on, but I'm missing the boot that goes from the airbox to the carb. Anybody got one they want to sell?

Also I need some side covers as well.

Gotta get back to working on it. I want to ride it tonight!
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maxslack screwed with this post 09-19-2012 at 12:27 PM
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:21 PM   #13097
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Looks like you have a fair bit of stuff missing on the bike. Regulator recitfier for one. Maybe it was relocated. Battery box, though you really don't need that.

Good idea on putting a air box on there, as those pod filters, like the one sitting on the work bench doesn't nothing for filtering and clogs up super fast in the dirt. If you have an air box then I would not worru about the snorkle. If you follow jesses reccomendations he would most likey tell you to cut the top out of the airbox as well. My experiance is that this jsut burns more gas and make more noise and doesn't really make the bike go any faster. Since you have a big bore kit I don't rememebr off the top of my head what peeps jet to. Look at distec and pablos DR350 builds, they both have bigger displacement DR's and have their jet specs in their writeups.

Not sure how important fuel eccomny is to you, but with the stock 127.5 main jet and a stock airbox with a CV carb, tall gearing, fireroads, I can glen 70+mpg. Buddy with a 140 main air box mod CV carb, gets 40. Even with low gears knobbies single track honning, I get 50mpg.

Super CRAP muffler... don't even get me started
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:29 PM   #13098
maxslack
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I'm with you on the superbrapp. It'll fetch a few bucks on ebay though.

I didn't mean the snorkle actually, I meant the boot that goes to the carb from the airbox. (I corrected my post).

I'm looking for another TM33 or FCR for this bike. I put the other one on my XT225 and it woke that little thing right up! I found a couple hidden deep in CL, but no replies yet.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:45 PM   #13099
mercuryrev
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Idle Mix Screw

Guys..... Anyone have an extended idle mix screw they would like to sell me here in the UK?

There is one on Ebay here but it's $50! Jesse sells them for $15, but no longer ships to the UK apparently....

Anyone help?

Thanks very much

Jon
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:51 PM   #13100
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Initially the brass (why in the $h1T is this made of brass?!) bolt broke off in the threads.


Then the tap broke and the wall of the casing came off while extracting it...



I can still fix this
You might could grind off the bad stuff flush, then make a new piece (alloy, brass or steel) as large as possible for more purchase. Drill and tap the new piece and JB Weld it to the carb. Just be sure to get it in the right spot. It will probably be as strong as that POS brass thing.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:16 PM   #13101
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercuryrev View Post
Guys..... Anyone have an extended idle mix screw they would like to sell me here in the UK?

There is one on Ebay here but it's $50! Jesse sells them for $15, but no longer ships to the UK apparently....

Anyone help?

Thanks very much

Jon
I make my own extended mixture screws. Get some brass rod and a brass nut that you can make fit the rod pretty close and solder them to your stock screw. Measure the length you need to extend it, carefully. I use the "Little Torch" that I use in my jewelry work and "hard" silver solder. The hardest part is keeping it straight. A jeweler shouldn't charge you much to do it, if you supply him the parts ready to solder.

Here's a pic of the one on the Transalp.



And here's the one on the DR350.

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Old 09-19-2012, 05:37 PM   #13102
Hotmamaandme
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Ok so if you take those Acerbis frame/boot guards off and sell them to me; that will help you get that bike fixed up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by maxslack View Post
SWEET!!!!









I got this bike last night from a really vague CL ad. The PO said he got it from his cousin in California who raced it "a long time ago" in the Baja1000 and barely finished with a clapped out engine. Last year he put a Pro-Cycle 440cc kit in it and freshened up the head and bottom end as well as putting on the edelbrock quicksilver carb. Turns out he injured himself and couldn't finish the project, so in I step!

It has a lot of nice bits on it. Suspension is by "Pro-Action" out of CA, nice billet top triple, bars, throttle, badass oldschool Supertrapp, 4.4 gallon tank, and best of all, old school UFO plastics!

I'm gonna ditch the Edelbrock and put an old DR350E TM33 that Greg Bender sold me on it. Any guesses on jet sizing?

I'd like to put the airbox back on, but I'm missing the boot that goes from the airbox to the carb. Anybody got one they want to sell?

Also I need some side covers as well.

Gotta get back to working on it. I want to ride it tonight!
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:10 PM   #13103
Kjharn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I ended up measuring the diameter of the threads, 1/10'. Any sort of force would shear that apart. I've seen eyeglasses with thicker screws.
Those are ginormo threads
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:05 PM   #13104
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
You might could grind off the bad stuff flush, then make a new piece (alloy, brass or steel) as large as possible for more purchase. Drill and tap the new piece and JB Weld it to the carb. Just be sure to get it in the right spot. It will probably be as strong as that POS brass thing.

The problem is that the case is very thin and I would end up drilling through to the slide housing and interrupt the movement of the slide.

Check out my thread here to see my current progress.
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RuggedExposure screwed with this post 09-19-2012 at 07:05 PM Reason: Spellin'
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:06 PM   #13105
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjharn View Post
Those are ginormo threads
Dammit. I meant 1/10"... 1/10' would be better though.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:02 PM   #13106
Ghostyman
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Location: LA face with the Oakland booty
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Quote:
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I'll be checking the shift drum bolt after work today. It looks pretty straightforward.
Follow up... I've got the cover off and the shift drum bolt isn't loose enough to move by hand. Should I actually try to crank it down with a wrench and if so, how much torque? This is not the bike that was getting false neutrals so I have no reason to suspect a problem with it.

Also, I ripped the gasket so I'm ordering another. What else should I do or check while I'm in here? I'm going to be pulling the cam cover off in a little bit to check the condition of the head tonight too. This is a '95 DR350SE I recently picked up with 34k miles on it so I'm really hoping it look good under there.

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Old 09-19-2012, 08:28 PM   #13107
Kjharn
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Take a spark plug reading, see if you're running rich or lean.
Check valve clearance.
Take a peek at the piston while you've got the plug out, see how the top of your piston looks. Serious amounts of carbon or dents/pitting could be cause of concern.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:33 PM   #13108
mercuryrev
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I make my own extended mixture screws. Get some brass rod and a brass nut that you can make fit the rod pretty close and solder them to your stock screw. Measure the length you need to extend it, carefully. I use the "Little Torch" that I use in my jewelry work and "hard" silver solder. The hardest part is keeping it straight. A jeweler shouldn't charge you much to do it, if you supply him the parts ready to solder.

Here's a pic of the one on the Transalp.



And here's the one on the DR350.

That is so cool! The ingenuity of this place......

Thanks very much, great idea!



Jon
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:32 PM   #13109
Midwestrider1
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how do i post pictures... im having a hell of a time..
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:34 PM   #13110
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwestrider1 View Post
how do i post pictures... im having a hell of a time..
host yo pics at photobucket or somethinglike it then copy the link , select the image above then paste the link
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