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Old 09-29-2012, 09:06 PM   #13201
jag007
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Location: Salem, Oregon
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DR Riders Want a Fork Brace - Need your help

I've found a Mfr who currently has a brace for DR650 and needs a DR250/250 to measure. He'll then build a Fork Brace that we all could get for the DR 250/350.
Mfr is in Gilroy, CA between San Jose & Salinas - If you or anyone you know can get your DR to him for measure - we can make it happen.

Thanks to all,
Jack

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Old 09-29-2012, 09:11 PM   #13202
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crenshaw View Post
Thanks for the input. I am definitely starting to wonder if it's down on compression some. My friend's old DR400 takes my whole weight jumping on the kicker, where mine is noticeably less. It feels to me like it makes great power though...however I haven't ever ridden another one to compare it to.
By "risking breaking something", you mean on my body? Or the bike?

Is there a favorite supplier you guys like to use for parts? What other things should I think about freshening up if I take the top end apart in the next few weeks? I'd like to put together a parts list and do as much as I can while I'm in there. Timing chain? Tensioner?

I have worked on cars professionally and at home for years and years but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to motorcycles.
Can the cylinder come off without pulling the engine? I wouldn't be opposed to pulling the engine and working on it in my living room for a few weeks once the snow flies. (not sure how the wife would feel) I have the PDF workshop manual but I haven't taken the time to really go through it yet. Too busy riding around on this thing and filling it full of oil.
I should mention I just changed the oil with some better quality oil than I was using before and it seems to have improved the consumption a little. Still not how I feel it ought to be, but better.
The case around the kickstart gears is not really strong enough to handle the extra loads from kickstarting without using the decompressor.

Head and cylinder come off pretty easily without pulling the engine. If you find the bore is damaged, give some thought to a big bore kit. The rest of the engine is sturdy enough to handle it and the cost is similar to (or less than) stock parts. Given the age of the bike, make sure to replace all seals, including the little rubber covered washers on top of the cam cover when you put it back together.

If it's got enough power for you and you keep a close eye on the oil level, you might just want to ride it for a bit.

Good luck!
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:30 AM   #13203
shearboy2004
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Went for a good ride today , some nasty rockie single track and must have bashed the shifter on some rock , now the shaft is bent !!!

Ok so I don't see a big problem in replacing it if it wasn't bent , clutch cover off and pull it out . But it is pretty bent to the point that at the latter part of the ride shifting was a lot harder .

Should I try and straighten it and risk busting the case or try and bash it out ?

The seal will have to be replaced so what about a shit load of heat and then try bending it ?

Bit stuck on this one and hoping someone else has run into the same problem at some stage .


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From DR GEAR CHANGE SHAFT
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:26 AM   #13204
PWRCRZR
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Is anybody running the 435 big bore kit from Thumper racing?

Mine just started smoking like an old school bus so it looks like time to freshen the top end..
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:09 AM   #13205
daverbmxer
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Front Fender

I had my bike tucked up under the eve of the garage roof in case it rained last night. I opened the garage door before I even rounded the corner, to hear a loud crack. The front fender is destroyed. There were bits of plastic all over the driveway.. Live and learn I guess.

I believe what is on there is an Acerbis fender. I would love to have the same one again, in blue so it matches, but it's not listed on Acerbis's site and I can't find it anywhere online. Any ideas on that?

I've done a bit of looking and found that the UFO front fenders are cheap and look good. They only come in white/yellow/black though. So I would have to get a white one I guess. Not really feeling like painting it and always fighting scratch marks.

Do theese UFO RM/RMZ fenders require any drilling for the DR350? I ask because http://www.kientech.com/UFOFrontFender.htm says the bolt pattern is predrilled, but are they all that way or do they custom drill it? They also say it's an "updated" front fender. Are there 2 versions?

Here's a picture of the bike with the Acerbis(?) fender.


daverbmxer screwed with this post 09-30-2012 at 08:18 AM
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:49 AM   #13206
Teeeeeemu
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Ive got RM-Z plastic kit for 08 onwards. The rear holes matched right up. Front holes arent vertical, more like diagonal \__ kinda like that. Red=hole.
I drilled 2 more holes \__ for the front holes and added some washers and now it doesnt wobble at all even with 3 bolts.

Point is, you can fit almost any fender to any bike by drilling a couple holes.

E. Updated means it isnt 90s stock dr look. Its for 06 rm/rmz. It says DR350 holes predrilled so you buy it and bolt it on.
If you want blue, look for yamaha fenders. All you have to do is drill a bit. You wont find matching blue though.

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Old 09-30-2012, 09:00 AM   #13207
daverbmxer
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Gotcha. Not sure if it's worth a few more bucks to get it predrilled. I saw it for $23.xx on another site but shipping is $7. I realize you are in Finland so you might not buy many things from U.S. based online stores. Perhaps someone could recommend if the predrilled route is worth it, or if not the best place to get a non predrilled one from? Unfortunately I doubt I could handle a blue that's a different shade than the rest of the bike. White would be better I think. Thanks for th info.
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:21 AM   #13208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
Gotcha. Not sure if it's worth a few more bucks to get it predrilled. I saw it for $23.xx on another site but shipping is $7. I realize you are in Finland so you might not buy many things from U.S. based online stores. Perhaps someone could recommend if the predrilled route is worth it, or if not the best place to get a non predrilled one from? Unfortunately I doubt I could handle a blue that's a different shade than the rest of the bike. White would be better I think. Thanks for th info.
Dont you or anyone you know have anything like this?



Dont pay for drilling man... Its like 5 minute job. Line it up, mark the spots and boom boom boom boom
Fenders are usually 20-40$ (same in euros for me) so 30 for a predrilled is good imo. And even better deal if you dont have access to power tools. Shipping is what makes the deal i guess. And I just got my seat cover from the states a couple weeks ago. Plastic kit came from Sweden. Now im thinking of ordering an FMF exhaust from the US
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:28 AM   #13209
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
Went for a good ride today , some nasty rockie single track and must have bashed the shifter on some rock , now the shaft is bent !!!

Ok so I don't see a big problem in replacing it if it wasn't bent , clutch cover off and pull it out . But it is pretty bent to the point that at the latter part of the ride shifting was a lot harder .

Should I try and straighten it and risk busting the case or try and bash it out ?

The seal will have to be replaced so what about a shit load of heat and then try bending it ?

Bit stuck on this one and hoping someone else has run into the same problem at some stage .

I wonder if you can use a small die grinder or air cut off tool and grind/cut off the welded parts on the shaft on the clutch side and pull it out through the left side. Cut the shaft and/or grind off the weld. You would have to remove the clutch and other stuff but it might work. http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=8282 Would be safer than trying to bend the shaft.

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Old 09-30-2012, 09:31 AM   #13210
daverbmxer
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I have a drill and bits, I don't mind doing it. Any tips for knowing where to drill the holes, since when you're holding the fender in place you can't see where the bolts thread into?
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:54 AM   #13211
Teeeeeemu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
I have a drill and bits, I don't mind doing it. Any tips for knowing where to drill the holes, since when you're holding the fender in place you can't see where the bolts thread into?
I always did it some hard way but I just realised you could just check from the old fender. Put them like this )( and draw or scratch a little from the old fender holes.
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:04 AM   #13212
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
I have a drill and bits, I don't mind doing it. Any tips for knowing where to drill the holes, since when you're holding the fender in place you can't see where the bolts thread into?
Take a thick piece of paper and tape it so it won't move to the bottom of the lower triple clamp. Push the four fender bolts through the paper to make a templet pattern. Or use the old broken fender. Now the tricky part. Use the templet or old piece of fender to mark the new holes square on the new fender. If you screw up, just "waller out" (technical machinist term) the holes a bit and use bigger washers.

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Old 09-30-2012, 11:00 AM   #13213
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
Went for a good ride today , some nasty rockie single track and must have bashed the shifter on some rock , now the shaft is bent !!!

Ok so I don't see a big problem in replacing it if it wasn't bent , clutch cover off and pull it out . But it is pretty bent to the point that at the latter part of the ride shifting was a lot harder .

Should I try and straighten it and risk busting the case or try and bash it out ?

The seal will have to be replaced so what about a shit load of heat and then try bending it ?

Bit stuck on this one and hoping someone else has run into the same problem at some stage .


From DR GEAR CHANGE SHAFT


From DR GEAR CHANGE SHAFT
Or... Maybe on the bent end, you can take that cut off wheel and grind away only the part of the shaft that is pushed to the back. Can't tell from the picture if you can get all the bent part or not. Pull the seal and you might get a better idea. You could just cut the bent part off, but that eliminates any possibility of straighting the shaft back to remove it. More than likely, it's bent all the way to the bushing (I hope there's a bushing in there) and you won't be able to get to it. When you get it apart you'll be able to tell where the bend is by pushing the shaft back and forth.
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:33 PM   #13214
FlyingWman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
I have a drill and bits, I don't mind doing it. Any tips for knowing where to drill the holes, since when you're holding the fender in place you can't see where the bolts thread into?
Hold a piece of paper to the bottom of the triple where the original fender was mounted and trace the outline of the triple and poke holes where the bolt holes are. Put that piece of paper on top of the new fender and line up n drill. It doesn't matter if your fender is already drilled for a different bike or not at all. Get your color and for the cheapest. You can drill holes next to predrilled holes on a fender ment for a different model and not jeopardize strength. Just make sure its for a 250cc up so it'll fit a 21" front
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:45 PM   #13215
Stretch67
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