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11-07-2012, 06:38 PM
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#13516 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2008
Oddometer: 94
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"The spacer typically has a drain hole in it, so that if the layer nearest the fuel gets a hole in it, the fuel will exit there"
Thanks for the note Motolab, it is currenlty leaking a little bit through the hole in the spacer located on the bottom side of the petcock. The Raptor valve will eliminate this issue. Canadian FJR |
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11-07-2012, 07:20 PM
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#13517 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 14
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how much is to much voltage out of the stator i looked in the book and it says 65v at 5k rpm i dont have a tac but when i rev my bike my stator is puting out up to about 90v im not sure what rpm im at i know my rectifire is bad to it was leting all the voltage thru
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11-07-2012, 08:26 PM
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#13518 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 1,249
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I have flooded my engine more times with aftermarket petcock then I ever did with the stock vacuum one. In fact I never flooded my engine with a stock petcock
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94 DR 350 SE MrPulldown screwed with this post 11-08-2012 at 10:45 AM |
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11-07-2012, 09:00 PM
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#13519 |
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wandering the desert
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 681
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Finally got my license plate in.
It is a sign of defiance since the New Mexico DMV said I could never make a DR350 street legal.
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Many 'a hand began to scan around for the next plateau. Some say it was Greenland, and some say Mexico. Others decided it was nowhere except for where they stood. Border Road 100 Border Road Rally Raid '13 Husky Terra 650 , '08 Kawasaki Meanstreak 1600, '95 DR350S
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11-07-2012, 09:31 PM
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#13520 |
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turnin gas to noise
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: californication
Oddometer: 5,979
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FTW!!!
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11-07-2012, 10:13 PM
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#13521 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 14
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Found a used rectifier on eBay for $35 so hope this fixes my problem
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11-08-2012, 04:59 AM
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#13522 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Hershey, PA
Oddometer: 22
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LED bulb
If you are looking to free up power an LED tail light bulb is nice. Don't sweat the trun signals as they are on so intermittenly and you will mess with the blinker relay (need to add additonal resistance). The dash has an outragous number of watt draining bulbs as well. swap those out for LED and you should free up quite a few watts. HID head light can gree up another 20.[/QUOTE]
Have you found one you like that works well? I have seen mixed reviews on them. LawlerClan screwed with this post 11-08-2012 at 05:56 AM Reason: fix typo |
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11-08-2012, 07:52 AM
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#13523 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Florence, Al
Oddometer: 232
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Quote:
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11-08-2012, 11:00 AM
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#13524 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 1,249
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Quote:
Which one? LED Tail LED Dash light bulbs or HID Kit. The answer really is no, but... My riding buddy has an LED tail lights. Just what ever stock repelcements the local moto shop sells. Can barely tell the differecne from incandesent. I have found the dash lights on web sites like this. http://www.superbrightleds.com/ But since I don't have a stock instrument cluster anymore i stopped looking. THis is the link that got me interseted in HID systems: http://www.procycle.us/info/articles...ess-power.html Go back to the DR650 product page and you can find their HID for sale. However I beleive it is jsut a rebranded version of this for a fraction of the cost. http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-H4-3-HB2-...981373&vxp=mtr The Hi/low system I have heard is a bit funcky. Doesn't use a two filimetn bulb but instead move the bulb back and forth via a servo motor. The positons the bulb in the refelctor tranlates the light higher and lower. But the e-bay kits was not wired properly. Seems like it was jsut half of a dual light car kit. So there was some monkeying around. Things might have gotten better recently. I was jsut going to go with a non servo single postion light and lose the hi/low function. Maybe things got better over the last year. I will be back into this this winter, as it is when I moneky with my bike, There are a few HID thread roaming around ADV. I'd look into those for more info.
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94 DR 350 SE |
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11-08-2012, 11:49 AM
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#13525 | |
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Mad Scientist
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Bent, but not broken
Oddometer: 3,168
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Quote:
http://www.customrewind.com/ |
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11-08-2012, 02:31 PM
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#13526 |
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mc caregiver
Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
Oddometer: 2,590
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11-08-2012, 02:59 PM
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#13527 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Oddometer: 169
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Quote:
Seriously? Wow, I grew up there, and things used to be VERY different. Case in point: I had an RGV250 (Suzuki 2-stroke GP bike). We slapped lights, signals, etc on it, took it down, got it plated. Same day. I also got my RM-80 plated the same way. Of course, this was in the late 80s/early 90s. I see you're in Las Cruces. I went to NMSU. GO AGGIES!
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11-08-2012, 05:19 PM
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#13528 |
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never grew up
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: taos new mexico
Oddometer: 249
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is the dr350 headlight the same as the dr650? i am wondering if the pro cycle hid kit plugs in to our bikes.
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11-08-2012, 06:07 PM
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#13529 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Aurora, CO
Oddometer: 27
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Hey guys,
Got a question to make sure I'm on the right track. My buddy just bought a 1995 DR just like mine and it has ran flawlessly for over a month. The other day he rode it home and went to start it about an hour later and nothing. It will just chug and chug but not start. Since it chugs I knew it wasn't the sidestand switch, clutch switch, etc. I traded out petcocks to a Raptor 660 one just to make sure fuel wasn't the problem and it's getting fuel for sure. I believe I have traced the problem to an intermittent spark issue. With the plug removed and grounded I'll get like 3 sparks when pressing the e-start button and then nothing. Sometimes it will spark for 10 seconds and other times no spark at all. This took a while to determine because the first few tests I was getting spark and was really confused. The shop manual says that for poor or no spark it should be the plug, coil, CDI, or magneto. So now I have him getting a new resister cover(spark plug boot) and ignition coil (comes with attached spark plug wire) because that's the cheapest fixes to start off with. I am not very good with a multimeter tester and in general hate electric problems so I wanted opinions to make sure I'm on the right track. Thanks. (oh ya, I am using a new plug and have tried 2 different ones to rule out a faulty one, compression is good, and I have looked over the whole bike for cracked or frayed wires) |
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11-08-2012, 06:30 PM
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#13530 |
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mc caregiver
Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
Oddometer: 2,590
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