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Old 12-01-2012, 10:58 PM   #13756
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjohnson View Post
Just got done installing my new Acerbis gas tank on the dr350. Picked it up this week for $209 with free shipping!

Thought I would post a few pictures of the fuel line routing in case someone is looking for it.

If you don't want to use the vinyl purple fuel line and plastic Y included with the tank you will need:
3 feet of 1/4 inch fuel line hose
1/4 inch brass T connection
6 hose clamps

Right side of the bike:

Be careful that the line doesn't touch the exhaust or cooling fins.




Left side of the bike:

The brass T is pointing down so that the choke operates normally.
I also put a small zip tie on the bracket above the choke to hold the line in place.
Good clearance around the cooling fins and exhaust.

Here's another way to run the fuel lines. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12104

Might get a little more gas out of the tank if you trim the "T" and put it as low as you can on top of the carb fuel inlet.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:24 PM   #13757
ctjohnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Again, My manual says... The "95DR350(S) is kick start dirt ( no extra lights etc ) model with TM33SS (pumper) carb and 44/15 final drive. "95DR350SE(S) (note "S" stands for "95 model year) has e-start, BST33 carb and 41/15 final drive. Confusing, but if you have turn signals, horn, high/low beam etc and e-start, diaphram carb, sounds like an SE(S/"95). Some bikes have been changed a lot. Motor swaps, stators, lights, frames. Sometimes it's hard to tell what you have.

Thanks, I hear ya (I was a little confused for a second), I think I assumed it was the SE version but it says S on the VIN plate.

I was just looking at the manual too and the big differences were the S(dirt version for 1995) had the pumper carb and "primarily kickstart" listed in the specs and the sprocket gearing/chain length. But mine has the CV carb, electric start, and all the factory street legal stuff and it only had 4000 miles when I got it. I got it from the original owner(old guy) and it didn't look like a wrench had ever touched it.

I'm gonna go with the gearing/chain length from the SE model instead, (41/15) DID520VC5, 108 links cause it's definitely a street version even though the VIN plate disagrees.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:42 PM   #13758
ctjohnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Here's another way to run the fuel lines. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12104

Might get a little more gas out of the tank if you trim the "T" and put it as low as you can on top of the carb fuel inlet.

Nice, I like the behind the carb routing. It looks like you could drain the tank.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:28 AM   #13759
Alli
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ctjohnson

41/15 ; 108 links is correct.

If you had the dirt model the vin plate would not say "S"

'95 dirt model - DR350 - - - S('95 year code)
'95 street model - DR350 S(street) E(electric start) S('95 year code)

Also the body panels will say DR350 for dirt and DR350S for street (for all models irrespective of wether it is electric or kick)

Hope this helps
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:39 AM   #13760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah M View Post
Alex,
Cant you get one off of ebay?




Well I sold both of my IMS 3.5 gal tanks and bought the 5.8 gal Acerbis XR400 tank and put it on the '93 yesterday.





Check the difference compared to my stock tank on the '96!





I took it for a ride yesterday and boy does this tank ever keep the wind off your knees! lol
Matches up real well with the seat, just removed the rubber rectangle the rested against the old tank.
Used the brackets that were included with the Acerbis tank and subsituted a piece of all thread in place of the top forward engine bracket bolt.

Rock solid and clears everything!

I will of course be riding with about 1/2 a tank off road, but this is going to be great for those long trips! Can ride over to the trails now, ride all day and not have to fill up


I know I'm digging this up from the past, but does anyone have pics on how this mounts? I'd rather put one of these on that the Acerbis DR350 tank. I'll have no problems fabbing up a bracket for the rear, but I'm wondering about the mounts up front...
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:00 PM   #13761
a1fa
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The 93 DR350 was kickstart only? how hard is it to add electric start?
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:07 PM   #13762
ctjohnson
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Well after installing the acerbis tank I've ran into a problem. It ran fine down to the gas station to fill up the new tank and got back on the bike but it would not start. Then I noticed fuel dumping out of the t-vent mod (Why is it flooded!). Of course I brought no tools, not even a screwdriver to drain the carb. I let it sit for about twenty minutes with the petcocks off and finally got it started, flipped the petcock on and got home.

The bike continues to flood with the petcock on. I can turn the petcock off and drain the fuel from the carb with the drain screw. Then turn the petcock on for like 5 seconds to fill the bowl, turn the petcock back off and the bike runs normally with just the fuel in the bowl. But if I turn the petcock on the bike slowly looses RPMs and dies........flooded again!

I am thinking the float needle valve is not closing all the way and continuing to allow fuel into the carb until it floods. Does that sound right to you guys?
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:08 PM   #13763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
The 93 DR350 was kickstart only? how hard is it to add electric start?
Really easy, just sell the 93 and buy a 94 and newer model.

That really is the only way, you can't just add electric start to the kick start engine.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:10 PM   #13764
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjohnson View Post
I am thinking the float needle valve is not closing all the way and continuing to allow fuel into the carb until it floods. Does that sound right to you guys?
Definitely. Possible there was some gunk in the tank that flowed to the carb and is stopping the needle valve from fully closing.

Off with the carb, clean out the bowl and seat. If things were fine before the tank install and you didn't change anything this should clear things up.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:38 PM   #13765
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Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Off with the carb, clean out the bowl and seat. If things were fine before the tank install and you didn't change anything this should clear things up.
Make sure that the needle seat o-ring is not shrunken, deformed, hardened, cracked or otherwise damaged, and that the needle's tip does not have a witness line where it has been contacting the seat (check under magnification). Also don't forget to set the float height before the bowl goes back on.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:54 PM   #13766
a1fa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
Really easy, just sell the 93 and buy a 94 and newer model.

That really is the only way, you can't just add electric start to the kick start engine.
That's easy enough. Thanks!
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:19 PM   #13767
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjohnson View Post
Well after installing the acerbis tank I've ran into a problem. It ran fine down to the gas station to fill up the new tank and got back on the bike but it would not start. Then I noticed fuel dumping out of the t-vent mod (Why is it flooded!). Of course I brought no tools, not even a screwdriver to drain the carb. I let it sit for about twenty minutes with the petcocks off and finally got it started, flipped the petcock on and got home.

The bike continues to flood with the petcock on. I can turn the petcock off and drain the fuel from the carb with the drain screw. Then turn the petcock on for like 5 seconds to fill the bowl, turn the petcock back off and the bike runs normally with just the fuel in the bowl. But if I turn the petcock on the bike slowly looses RPMs and dies........flooded again!

I am thinking the float needle valve is not closing all the way and continuing to allow fuel into the carb until it floods. Does that sound right to you guys?
Yup, might have a piece of debris in the needle/seat. And there is an 0-ring that holds/seals the seat in the carb body that some have reported as a posible source of fuel leakage/flooding.
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:08 PM   #13768
ctjohnson
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Thanks for all the replies. I took off the carb and cleaned the needle and seat. Everything looked fine, but there must have been something stuck in there because after I re-installed it the bike ran perfectly. Just got back from a nice 2 hour ride
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:36 PM   #13769
Hurricane Bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjohnson View Post

Be careful that the line doesn't touch the exhaust or cooling fins.




Good clearance around the cooling fins and exhaust.

They make heat shield booties for spark plugs that would be perfect to sleeve over any fuel line that may be too close to hot components.
You can get them at most auto parts stores.






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Old 12-02-2012, 09:02 PM   #13770
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctjohnson View Post
Well after installing the acerbis tank I've ran into a problem. It ran fine down to the gas station to fill up the new tank and got back on the bike but it would not start. Then I noticed fuel dumping out of the t-vent mod (Why is it flooded!). Of course I brought no tools, not even a screwdriver to drain the carb. I let it sit for about twenty minutes with the petcocks off and finally got it started, flipped the petcock on and got home.

The bike continues to flood with the petcock on. I can turn the petcock off and drain the fuel from the carb with the drain screw. Then turn the petcock on for like 5 seconds to fill the bowl, turn the petcock back off and the bike runs normally with just the fuel in the bowl. But if I turn the petcock on the bike slowly looses RPMs and dies........flooded again!

I am thinking the float needle valve is not closing all the way and continuing to allow fuel into the carb until it floods. Does that sound right to you guys?
You have also found out what Suzuki uses a vacume opperater petcock.
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