DR350 Thread - Page 935

Liza · 12-31-2012, 01:00 PM

Anybody have any stock suspension links (dog bones, whatever) kicking around? I'm looking to un-lower my 99 DR350SE and need to switch out the lowering links. Figured I'd ask before dropping $100 on a set.

Alternatively, I'm perusing eBay and wonder if those are the same across the model years and types (dirt, ds). Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Frankdozer · 12-31-2012, 01:20 PM

I have a 1990 Suzuki DR350S that has under 1500 original miles on it, The head was never loosened and retorqued. I can see that a regular torque wrench can do the 4 cylinder head bolts @ 25.5-29 ft.-lb. and the 4 cylinder-to-crankcase nuts @ 16.5-19.5 ft.-lb.. But what about the front and rear cylinder head-to-cylinder nuts @ 16.5-19.5 ft.-lb.? What kind of torque wrench do I use? I seem to find that only a box wrench will fit on them. Thanks, Frank

inroads · 12-31-2012, 05:06 PM

Hey Liza I'll trade my stock 99 dogbones for your lowered ones.I pm'ed you.

Lasherman · 12-31-2012, 06:08 PM

Went to far between valve adjustments. No matter how I set the "T" on the window, could not get slack on the valve train. Im having a hard time finding TDC. I think I found it (was able to get a .015 gauge in the exhaust) and set the valves to .004 and .005 so they would be happy tappy valves. Fired it up after 7-10 kicks (figure it took some to get the gas back in) and let idle. After a bit I saw my header turning red....never saw that before. Any thoughts? Didnt hear any happy tappy......

VooDooDaddy · 12-31-2012, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lasherman

Went to far between valve adjustments. No matter how I set the "T" on the window, could not get slack on the valve train.

Are you sure the piston was at Top-Dead-Center in the compression stroke? It may have been at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke? You may have needed to rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees? This is just a guess on my part.

Hotmamaandme · 12-31-2012, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by voodoodaddy

are you sure the piston was at top-dead-center in the compression stroke? It may have been at tdc at the end of the exhaust stroke? You may have needed to rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees? This is just a guess on my part.

+1

Lasherman · 12-31-2012, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy

Are you sure the piston was at Top-Dead-Center in the compression stroke? It may have been at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke? You may have needed to rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees? This is just a guess on my part.

Dont know.......any other was to tell than checking for slack on the rocker arm?

ADV BUM · 12-31-2012, 07:02 PM

I picked this up as my DS trail beast. The PO did not know anything about the build. I was hoping someone here might now the builder. I have not ridden as I have a torn achilles. Something to look forward to when better.

MiteyF · 12-31-2012, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lasherman

Dont know.......any other was to tell than checking for slack on the rocker arm?

Finger over the spark plug hole

Lasherman · 12-31-2012, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MiteyF

Finger over the spark plug hole

Look for a push of air out right? Wont do that on any other stroke?

MiteyF · 12-31-2012, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lasherman

Look for a push of air out right? Wont do that on any other stroke?

Correct

Suck
Squeeze
Bang
Blow

You will feel the compression on the compression stroke.

2bold2getold · 12-31-2012, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lasherman

Went to far between valve adjustments. No matter how I set the "T" on the window, could not get slack on the valve train. Im having a hard time finding TDC. I think I found it (was able to get a .015 gauge in the exhaust) and set the valves to .004 and .005 so they would be happy tappy valves. Fired it up after 7-10 kicks (figure it took some to get the gas back in) and let idle. After a bit I saw my header turning red....never saw that before. Any thoughts? Didnt hear any happy tappy......

If you actully set the valves (put the correct feeler gage between the valve stem and the rocker arm screw), and you can't hear a lot of clearance (big tap) , the crank had to be in the right spot. At TDC on the compression stroke, the cam lobes are in there low spots. That's why you add the extra clearance there, so the valve can rest on the seat a bit to close completely and cool. If you had set them at any other place (a higher spot on the cam lobe) it would have a lot of clearance when the cam came around to it's low spot on that valve when running. I think that's right? The worst mistake would be to not set the valves and have the clearance close up due to wear and not let the valve cool and burn the valve or set them too tight. There is another way to set the valves. Just turn the crank and watch the cam lobe come to bear on its lowest position and set the valve clearance there for each valve.

Lasherman · 12-31-2012, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

If you actully set the valves (put the correct feeler gage between the valve stem and the rocker arm screw), and you can't hear a lot of clearance (big tap) , the crank had to be in the right spot. At TDC on the compression stroke, the cam lobes are in there low spots. That's why you add the extra clearance there, so the valve can rest on the seat a bit to close completely and cool. If you had set them at any other place (a higher spot on the cam lobe) it would have a lot of clearance when the cam came around to it's low spot on that valve when running. I think that's right? The worst mistake would be to not set the valves and have the clearance close up due to wear and not let the valve cool and burn the valve or set them too tight. There is another way to set the valves. Just turn the crank and watch the cam lobe come to bear on its lowest position and set the valve clearance there for each valve.

OK.......so if I just turn the crank and set at lowest point does it matter what stroke Im on? Ive adjusted my valves sevreal time and this is the fisrt issue have had.

2bold2getold · 12-31-2012, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lasherman

OK.......so if I just turn the crank and set at lowest point does it matter what stroke Im on? Ive adjusted my valves sevreal time and this is the fisrt issue have had.

Short answer... NO...All you are doing is setting that correct clearance between the valve stem and the adjuster. It doesn't care how you get there, if you are on the lowest place on the cam lobe. If you're not , you'll have too much clearance when the cam rotates to the low position and too much valve noise. Not a good thing either...might contribute to dropped (broken) valves, along with spinning it too hard and lots of miles(age). Every time the valve hits the seat the pressure from the valve spring tends to stretch the valve a little. Too much clearance = a harder hit on both ends of the valve. Seen lots of dropped valves and some burned ones to.

Lasherman · 12-31-2012, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

Short answer... NO...All you are doing is setting that correct clearance between the valve stem and the adjuster. It doesn't care how you get there, if you are on the lowest place on the cam lobe

OK, Ill pull it apart tomorrow again and set at lowest point.....do this for both intake and exhaust at lowest point respectivly Im guessing.

12-31-2012, 01:00 PM	#14011
Liza Dirty Girl Joined: Sep 2009 Location: Marion, MA Oddometer: 196	Anybody have any stock suspension links (dog bones, whatever) kicking around? I'm looking to un-lower my 99 DR350SE and need to switch out the lowering links. Figured I'd ask before dropping $100 on a set. Alternatively, I'm perusing eBay and wonder if those are the same across the model years and types (dirt, ds). Any thoughts? Thanks! __________________ DR350(441) Liza screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 01:07 PM

12-31-2012, 01:20 PM	#14012
Frankdozer Adventurer Joined: Dec 2012 Location: Bridgton, Maine Oddometer: 19	1990 DR350S Torqueing The Head I have a 1990 Suzuki DR350S that has under 1500 original miles on it, The head was never loosened and retorqued. I can see that a regular torque wrench can do the 4 cylinder head bolts @ 25.5-29 ft.-lb. and the 4 cylinder-to-crankcase nuts @ 16.5-19.5 ft.-lb.. But what about the front and rear cylinder head-to-cylinder nuts @ 16.5-19.5 ft.-lb.? What kind of torque wrench do I use? I seem to find that only a box wrench will fit on them. Thanks, Frank

12-31-2012, 06:08 PM	#14014
Lasherman Ah Sh!t! Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Turlock, Ca Oddometer: 196	Damn it! Went to far between valve adjustments. No matter how I set the "T" on the window, could not get slack on the valve train. Im having a hard time finding TDC. I think I found it (was able to get a .015 gauge in the exhaust) and set the valves to .004 and .005 so they would be happy tappy valves. Fired it up after 7-10 kicks (figure it took some to get the gas back in) and let idle. After a bit I saw my header turning red....never saw that before. Any thoughts? Didnt hear any happy tappy......

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12-31-2012, 05:06 PM	#14013
inroads Wimberley,Texas Joined: Feb 2010 Oddometer: 76	Hey Liza I'll trade my stock 99 dogbones for your lowered ones.I pm'ed you.

12-31-2012, 07:02 PM	#14018
ADV BUM Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Dec 2009 Oddometer: 119	I picked this up as my DS trail beast. The PO did not know anything about the build. I was hoping someone here might now the builder. I have not ridden as I have a torn achilles. Something to look forward to when better.