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Old 12-31-2012, 01:00 PM   #14011
Liza
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Anybody have any stock suspension links (dog bones, whatever) kicking around? I'm looking to un-lower my 99 DR350SE and need to switch out the lowering links. Figured I'd ask before dropping $100 on a set.

Alternatively, I'm perusing eBay and wonder if those are the same across the model years and types (dirt, ds). Any thoughts?

Thanks!
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Liza screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 01:07 PM
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:20 PM   #14012
Frankdozer
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1990 DR350S Torqueing The Head

I have a 1990 Suzuki DR350S that has under 1500 original miles on it, The head was never loosened and retorqued. I can see that a regular torque wrench can do the 4 cylinder head bolts @ 25.5-29 ft.-lb. and the 4 cylinder-to-crankcase nuts @ 16.5-19.5 ft.-lb.. But what about the front and rear cylinder head-to-cylinder nuts @ 16.5-19.5 ft.-lb.? What kind of torque wrench do I use? I seem to find that only a box wrench will fit on them. Thanks, Frank
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:06 PM   #14013
inroads
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Hey Liza I'll trade my stock 99 dogbones for your lowered ones.I pm'ed you.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:08 PM   #14014
Lasherman
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Damn it!

Went to far between valve adjustments. No matter how I set the "T" on the window, could not get slack on the valve train. Im having a hard time finding TDC. I think I found it (was able to get a .015 gauge in the exhaust) and set the valves to .004 and .005 so they would be happy tappy valves. Fired it up after 7-10 kicks (figure it took some to get the gas back in) and let idle. After a bit I saw my header turning red....never saw that before. Any thoughts? Didnt hear any happy tappy......
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:25 PM   #14015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
Went to far between valve adjustments. No matter how I set the "T" on the window, could not get slack on the valve train.
Are you sure the piston was at Top-Dead-Center in the compression stroke? It may have been at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke? You may have needed to rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees? This is just a guess on my part.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:48 PM   #14016
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Originally Posted by voodoodaddy View Post
are you sure the piston was at top-dead-center in the compression stroke? It may have been at tdc at the end of the exhaust stroke? You may have needed to rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees? This is just a guess on my part.



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Old 12-31-2012, 06:54 PM   #14017
Lasherman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Are you sure the piston was at Top-Dead-Center in the compression stroke? It may have been at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke? You may have needed to rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees? This is just a guess on my part.
Dont know.......any other was to tell than checking for slack on the rocker arm?
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:02 PM   #14018
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I picked this up as my DS trail beast. The PO did not know anything about the build. I was hoping someone here might now the builder. I have not ridden as I have a torn achilles. Something to look forward to when better.



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Old 12-31-2012, 07:03 PM   #14019
MiteyF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
Dont know.......any other was to tell than checking for slack on the rocker arm?
Finger over the spark plug hole
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:35 PM   #14020
Lasherman
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Finger over the spark plug hole
Look for a push of air out right? Wont do that on any other stroke?
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:45 PM   #14021
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Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
Look for a push of air out right? Wont do that on any other stroke?
Correct

Suck
Squeeze
Bang
Blow

You will feel the compression on the compression stroke.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:47 PM   #14022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
Went to far between valve adjustments. No matter how I set the "T" on the window, could not get slack on the valve train. Im having a hard time finding TDC. I think I found it (was able to get a .015 gauge in the exhaust) and set the valves to .004 and .005 so they would be happy tappy valves. Fired it up after 7-10 kicks (figure it took some to get the gas back in) and let idle. After a bit I saw my header turning red....never saw that before. Any thoughts? Didnt hear any happy tappy......
If you actully set the valves (put the correct feeler gage between the valve stem and the rocker arm screw), and you can't hear a lot of clearance (big tap) , the crank had to be in the right spot. At TDC on the compression stroke, the cam lobes are in there low spots. That's why you add the extra clearance there, so the valve can rest on the seat a bit to close completely and cool. If you had set them at any other place (a higher spot on the cam lobe) it would have a lot of clearance when the cam came around to it's low spot on that valve when running. I think that's right? The worst mistake would be to not set the valves and have the clearance close up due to wear and not let the valve cool and burn the valve or set them too tight. There is another way to set the valves. Just turn the crank and watch the cam lobe come to bear on its lowest position and set the valve clearance there for each valve.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 08:22 PM
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:31 PM   #14023
Lasherman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
If you actully set the valves (put the correct feeler gage between the valve stem and the rocker arm screw), and you can't hear a lot of clearance (big tap) , the crank had to be in the right spot. At TDC on the compression stroke, the cam lobes are in there low spots. That's why you add the extra clearance there, so the valve can rest on the seat a bit to close completely and cool. If you had set them at any other place (a higher spot on the cam lobe) it would have a lot of clearance when the cam came around to it's low spot on that valve when running. I think that's right? The worst mistake would be to not set the valves and have the clearance close up due to wear and not let the valve cool and burn the valve or set them too tight. There is another way to set the valves. Just turn the crank and watch the cam lobe come to bear on its lowest position and set the valve clearance there for each valve.
OK.......so if I just turn the crank and set at lowest point does it matter what stroke Im on? Ive adjusted my valves sevreal time and this is the fisrt issue have had.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:38 PM   #14024
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Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
OK.......so if I just turn the crank and set at lowest point does it matter what stroke Im on? Ive adjusted my valves sevreal time and this is the fisrt issue have had.
Short answer... NO...All you are doing is setting that correct clearance between the valve stem and the adjuster. It doesn't care how you get there, if you are on the lowest place on the cam lobe. If you're not , you'll have too much clearance when the cam rotates to the low position and too much valve noise. Not a good thing either...might contribute to dropped (broken) valves, along with spinning it too hard and lots of miles(age). Every time the valve hits the seat the pressure from the valve spring tends to stretch the valve a little. Too much clearance = a harder hit on both ends of the valve. Seen lots of dropped valves and some burned ones to.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 08:52 PM
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:44 PM   #14025
Lasherman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Short answer... NO...All you are doing is setting that correct clearance between the valve stem and the adjuster. It doesn't care how you get there, if you are on the lowest place on the cam lobe
OK, Ill pull it apart tomorrow again and set at lowest point.....do this for both intake and exhaust at lowest point respectivly Im guessing.
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