DR350 Thread

[MrPulldown]

Might not be worht the effort to remove the frame drain. There is a screen right below it you should check and clean out. Removing the hose and undo the screen. I am sure it will be messy as oil will flow out when you undo it, but at least you will get it out.

[MiteyF]

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

Those frame drain bolts seem to get very tight. A 6 piont socket will do a better job of not rounding the bolt. After it's stripped, sometime you can hammer on a smaller size socket of some type. One of those star sockets sometimes works. If all else fails get a nut that will fit over whats left and weld it through the center to the stub. A tig/mig welder will be less messy, but a stick welder will work. While it's still hot, it should come out. You could also pull the hose and strainer below the drain bolt.

IF YOU DO THIS be sure to disconnect your cdi, battery and other important electrical items before wedling on your bike, just in case!

[smc5735]

I appreciate the tips guys ! Fast responses..

I'm planning on purchasing bigger vice grips tomorrow.. If that doesn't work then I'm thinking the next option would be undoing the oil hose and getting the oil out and maybe dealing with the bolt down the road.

[mustangwagz]

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Might not be worht the effort to remove the frame drain. There is a screen right below it you should check and clean out. Removing the hose and undo the screen. I am sure it will be messy as oil will flow out when you undo it, but at least you will get it out.

Bingo!!!! If all else fails, This will do!

Originally Posted by MiteyF

IF YOU DO THIS be sure to disconnect your cdi, battery and other important electrical items before wedling on your bike, just in case!

AMEN! Gotta his the Disconnect on the Heavy equipment when we weld, but this is a great suggestion on EVERYTHING that has electrical stuff in it!

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

If all else fails get a nut that will fit over whats left and weld it through the center to the stub. A tig/mig welder will be less messy, but a stick welder will work.

I've had very good luck with this technique...especially when I needed to remove the bolts that secured the rear brake disc to the hub. I had some cheap wrenches laying around I never intended to use and got rid of them this way :>



Regards,

Gregory Bender

[PHILinFRANCE]

My mate loves to tinker and messed with his carb on a DR350 1994 !!!! it was running sweet as a nut but started sticking open so he pulled it apart , cleaned it , put it back together and now it runs like a bag of SHIT !!!
I have to add he does know what he's doing but he's had it in and out that many times he's just sick of it now !!

The times i've said "if it aint broke don't FCUK WITH IT "

Cheers Phil

[tntmo]

Originally Posted by smc5735

I appreciate the tips guys ! Fast responses..

I'm planning on purchasing bigger vice grips tomorrow.. If that doesn't work then I'm thinking the next option would be undoing the oil hose and getting the oil out and maybe dealing with the bolt down the road.

PM me with your address, I have three frames from DR350 part outs laying behind my garage so I will mail you a replacement drain plug, no charge.

[Bonerov]

Originally Posted by tntmo

PM me with your address, I have three frames from DR350 part outs laying behind my garage so I will mail you a replacement drain plug, no charge.

Yet again, this thread delivers.

[mustangwagz]

Originally Posted by tntmo

PM me with your address, I have three frames from DR350 part outs laying behind my garage so I will mail you a replacement drain plug, no charge.

More great ppls from a great site! Wheres the damn LIKE button, or REP button! lol

[tntmo]

Thanks guys/gals. I've sold a lot of parts on the marketplace here so just trying to give back a bit. If anyone has any DR350 needs I have a lot of stuff.

[smc5735]

really glad I joined this forum, everyone has been a great help so far. Thanks again for the tips and it looks like welding it will be the most efficient way. Pm’d !

[dav_dman]

Originally Posted by tntmo

Thanks guys/gals. I've sold a lot of parts on the marketplace here so just trying to give back a bit. If anyone has any DR350 needs I have a lot of stuff.

thats pretty awesome of you.


I have my 99dr350se for sale in tampa...in the advrider flea mkt for details.
thx,
Dave

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by smc5735

really glad I joined this forum, everyone has been a great help so far. Thanks again for the tips and it looks like welding it will be the most efficient way. Pm’d !

Be sure to remove anything electronic (I remove the battery, CDI, R/R and disconnect ground wires for sure) you don't want fried by the electric welder. Try to put the welders ground cable on the frame as close to the drain plug bolt as possible. Better safe than sorry. Thanks to those that reminded everyone/me about this necessary precation.

[RuggedExposure]

OK, pulled the plug today to see whats going on with the bike.
Plug came out oily.

So I started taking off the carb. I noticed that it too was covered in oily/drying gas.
This slimy residue was also in the intake boot.

This tells me the float valve is leaking, causing the bowl to over fill and gas to go everywhere.

So I removed the carb, took off the float bowl and float assembly.
The rubber needle tip seemed a little hard (but then again its less than 30*F here so everything rubber is a little hard).
I cleaned up everything and put it back together.

Bike fired right up, ran great for about 2 minutes, then started sputtering again.
After about 4 minutes it really started to run like shit. To the point that riding it back to the barn was a chore.

Now, I can order a new valve assembly for about $40-45, or this setup http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/th...ton-Tip/Detail for about $25 (buit which needle size do I want?).

Or I can order a brand spanking new TM33 for $219 and be done with it.
Or better yet, save that money and use it towards getting a FI Husqvarna Terra 650...

[dav_dman]

just put the new 20 dollar mikuni needle/seat in it and ride easy. People on the phone will know which one. Service manual might spec it out, not sure.

When i take my carbs apart i spray starter fluid in every hole to make sure i get good flow...unscrew the pilot screw , slide, even the float bowl screw to get dirt out. Then i crc it for thread corrosion protection. Make SURE you lube the needle and inside the seat before you put the carb back together.

I figure gas eats the lube away with first use but an oldtimer started me doing that and so i just do it and never had an issue with a carb rebuild. I still hate carbs and love fuel injection :))