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Old 01-18-2013, 02:29 PM   #14221
Hotmamaandme
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Gardnerville NV
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Addding Kicker to Estart

I have a 98 E start that im wanting to add a kick start on. I bought the kick leg and a couple of gears and a spring associated with he assembly.


I know I need more parts to finish the install. Does any one have a parts list or micro fiche with part number?

Thanks
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:01 PM   #14222
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
I have a 98 E start that im wanting to add a kick start on. I bought the kick leg and a couple of gears and a spring associated with he assembly.


I know I need more parts to finish the install. Does any one have a parts list or micro fiche with part number?

Thanks
I've got some info you can take a look at here (sorry, no condensed list).

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:12 PM   #14223
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
I have a 98 E start that im wanting to add a kick start on. I bought the kick leg and a couple of gears and a spring associated with he assembly.


I know I need more parts to finish the install. Does any one have a parts list or micro fiche with part number?

Thanks
Here's a post from "07 by GaThumper with a lot of part #s. I don't think you need the decomp stuff if you've got the late model auto decomp cam.... http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....9&postcount=23 Hope this helps.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:22 PM   #14224
Hotmamaandme
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Thanks fellas
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:48 PM   #14225
RuggedExposure
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,211
To update some people on my dilemma, the DR is still sputtering/backfiring like crazy.
Seemed at first my problem was the carb flooding and running rich. The exhaust has lately been leaving soot on the fender so that was an indicator.
I checked the float and it seemed to be good, the float needle is also in good shape.
Gregory Bender sent me his handy dandy O-ring kit to test fit the O-ring for the float valve assembly.
You'll have to excuse my work environment. I recently moved out to the ranch last month, and still am in the process of converting the barn to a workable shop. I am starting to practice working on the bike with only with the tools I carry on the bike. This way I know what tools I may be missing, and which ones I don't need to be carrying.
I also came to the conclusion that I should give up working in a clean, neat location to simulate a road side break down.
What I've learned so far is to carry a clean rag or old t-shirt in your tool kit to lay small parts on.

Here is the kit. Various O-rings for different parts of the bike.
He includes a sheet with the sizes to match up which O-ring for which part (neat idea).


All I need is #10 for the float valve assembly:


Here's the whole it goes into:


As you can see, the old O-ring fell apart instantly:


As Mr. Bender suggests, lube it up with some grease to allow it to seat easier.

Great kit, worked flawlessly. But unfortunately the bike it still not operable.

I will try changing the plug next just to see if maybe thats the issue.
The bike starts easy, runs like a champ until it gets warmed up. Then it starts popping from the tailpipe and falls on it's face. If the plug doesn't work I will try the new coil I ordered.

Anyone else have any ideas? This problem seems to be linked to heat, or something warming up and making it run awful.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:49 PM   #14226
FlyingWman
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Location: Great lakes state
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
You can take a longer generic cable and carefully cut the housing shorter (dremel tool) to get the correct length of the stranded part. There's a small MC shop here that will make cables any size you want. He used to charge $35, but it's been a while, may be more now. Here's more, how to, cable info.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1005
In my opinion once you cut a cable and then start soldering the strands and fittings together it never really holds very well. You're far better off to source a local made cable at a small MC shop and have them add or subtract whatever length you need
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:05 PM   #14227
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
He includes a sheet with the sizes to match up which O-ring for which part (neat idea).



Anyone else have any ideas? This problem seems to be linked to heat, or something warming up and making it run awful.
Hi RuggedExposure,

I'm glad to hear that OR-10 is a good fit. I'll get it added to the website for purchase soon.

In offering the o-rings, I really wanted to keep prices low and individually bagging/tagging o-rings is not a lot of fun (plus it adds weight and I can ship the kits domestically for $0.45 now). With the sheet I include, it is a simple matter to match up the sizes. Last summer I tested this idea with my (then) 3 year old son. He got them all right the first time in less than a minute and thought it was a fun game! :> :> :>

Back to your problem. To me, popping and backfiring seem to indicate a lean condition. I'm wondering if you've got an air leak where the intake manifold meets the cylinder head? There is an o-ring at the location and you may wish to check it's condition (replacement is in the kit, of course).

Another thing that comes to mind are the valve clearances. When was the last time you checked/set them? Seems worth the effort to make sure they are not too tight and closing up when things get hot.

A final thought (and I don't really even want to mention it), but perhaps the ignition windings on the stator are bad - making good contact when cold but intermittent contact when hot.

All guesses, but I hope something helps.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:14 PM   #14228
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman View Post
In my opinion once you cut a cable and then start soldering the strands and fittings together it never really holds very well. You're far better off to source a local made cable at a small MC shop and have them add or subtract whatever length you need
Don't know, never tried cutting the the stranded part and resoldering it, but I think I could ( I've got a bunch of special tools for jewelry work ). What I did was to remove the ferrule from the outter housing of an XR650 clutch cable that came with some stuff from ebay, cut just the housing shorter to match the cable of my transalp for a spare. Works good.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:21 PM   #14229
RuggedExposure
wandering the desert
 
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi RuggedExposure,

I'm glad to hear that OR-10 is a good fit. I'll get it added to the website for purchase soon.

In offering the o-rings, I really wanted to keep prices low and individually bagging/tagging o-rings is not a lot of fun (plus it adds weight and I can ship the kits domestically for $0.45 now). With the sheet I include, it is a simple matter to match up the sizes. Last summer I tested this idea with my (then) 3 year old son. He got them all right the first time in less than a minute and thought it was a fun game! :> :> :>

Back to your problem. To me, popping and backfiring seem to indicate a lean condition. I'm wondering if you've got an air leak where the intake manifold meets the cylinder head? There is an o-ring at the location and you may wish to check it's condition (replacement is in the kit, of course).

Another thing that comes to mind are the valve clearances. When was the last time you checked/set them? Seems worth the effort to make sure they are not too tight and closing up when things get hot.

A final thought (and I don't really even want to mention it), but perhaps the ignition windings on the stator are bad - making good contact when cold but intermittent contact when hot.

All guesses, but I hope something helps.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
The manifold looks sealed, I adjusted the valves a few hundred miles ago, but it is possible something came loose.
The bike seems to have great compression and is still easy to start.

How much does it cost to have a stator re-wound? Can I buy a new one?
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:51 PM   #14230
Chicken Helmet
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
The manifold looks sealed, I adjusted the valves a few hundred miles ago, but it is possible something came loose.
The bike seems to have great compression and is still easy to start.

How much does it cost to have a stator re-wound? Can I buy a new one?
Some carb cleaner sprayed around the manifold once the problem presents itself will tell you if it is really sealed.
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From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:56 PM   #14231
Cool_Hand_Luke
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Location: Bay Area CA
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi Luke,

I use these tusk bars and they have held up very well to me and my falls:
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...m-_cr_mid_bend

I'm 6'3" as well and don't enjoy the hunched over position. With stock length cables, etc I was able to fit these risers (7/8" bar, 30mm height). I do not believe I could go any taller without cable issues.
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ndlebar+risers

The risers were a nice improvement, though I'm still more hunched over than I'd like. I just bend my knees a bit more and pretend I'm enjoying the leg muscle work out :> :> :>

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Hello Mr. Bender,

Thanks for the info...I already placed an order for the KX Highs so hopefully the cables will reach okay. If not maybe I will return them and do the same set up you have with the CR Mids and the risers. Oh and I like where your head is at with the leg work out!

Luke
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:16 PM   #14232
pnw
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air filter cage

I have a '99 with a K&N air filter but thinking of going back to a foam filter. Anyone know of a source for a new cage for a foam filter? Or is the K&N not as bad as I read about on this site for use in dusty conditions?

Anyone know if trimming the snorkel tube shorter causes any problems?
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:27 PM   #14233
MadChap
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I have had my snorkel removed and jetted the carb one jet larger. No problems in 8,000 miles.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:57 PM   #14234
pnw
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I have had my snorkel removed and jetted the carb one jet larger. No problems in 8,000 miles.
Thanks - and nice rlide report.
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Old 01-19-2013, 03:57 AM   #14235
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,069
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnw View Post
I have a '99 with a K&N air filter but thinking of going back to a foam filter. Anyone know of a source for a new cage for a foam filter? Or is the K&N not as bad as I read about on this site for use in dusty conditions?

Anyone know if trimming the snorkel tube shorter causes any problems?
I don't know of a source for replacement cages other than used on eBay or new from one of the suppliers.

IMHO, K&N is fine for the street. I would never choose to use one for dirt riding, though.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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