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Old 01-19-2013, 03:58 AM   #14236
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cool_Hand_Luke View Post
Hello Mr. Bender,

Thanks for the info...I already placed an order for the KX Highs so hopefully the cables will reach okay. If not maybe I will return them and do the same set up you have with the CR Mids and the risers. Oh and I like where your head is at with the leg work out!

Luke
Hi Luke,

Let us know of the KX Highs work with your cables. Picture would be nice, too. :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:37 AM   #14237
andrius
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Location: Lithuania, Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
The manifold looks sealed, I adjusted the valves a few hundred miles ago, but it is possible something came loose.
The bike seems to have great compression and is still easy to start.

How much does it cost to have a stator re-wound? Can I buy a new one?
One more thing to check (adjust) would be float heigth. Fellow from my local forum had similar problem - engine started easily without choke (even in cold weather), and after reaching working temperature it died. The problem was improper float heigth (the bike was high mileage), causing too rich mixture.

Good luck with Your problem!
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:33 AM   #14238
boboneleg
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In south-west England...........












oooooooooops

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Old 01-19-2013, 05:47 AM   #14239
cwc
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post

Anyone else have any ideas? This problem seems to be linked to heat, or something warming up and making it run awful.
I can't remember if this has been mentioned, but have you checked the air filter?

I've been involved with this set of symptoms twice recently. The first was a XT350 that had a mouse nest in the airbox and the second was a DR650 with too much oil in the air filter.

Neither one was my bike or my work.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:44 AM   #14240
jeep8
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Location: Florence, Al
Oddometer: 268
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04iOmfhABEo


Thought ya'll might enjoy this
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:48 AM   #14241
RuggedExposure
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwc View Post
I can't remember if this has been mentioned, but have you checked the air filter?

I've been involved with this set of symptoms twice recently. The first was a XT350 that had a mouse nest in the airbox and the second was a DR650 with too much oil in the air filter.

Neither one was my bike or my work.
Ya, this was my first thought too. I cleaned the filter and re-oiled it to no avail.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrius View Post
One more thing to check (adjust) would be float heigth. Fellow from my local forum had similar problem - engine started easily without choke (even in cold weather), and after reaching working temperature it died. The problem was improper float heigth (the bike was high mileage), causing too rich mixture.

Good luck with Your problem!

Possibly the float is too high? Anyone have pics of the metal tab on the float and where its supposed to be set at?
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:22 AM   #14242
tntmo
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnw View Post
I have a '99 with a K&N air filter but thinking of going back to a foam filter. Anyone know of a source for a new cage for a foam filter? Or is the K&N not as bad as I read about on this site for use in dusty conditions?

Anyone know if trimming the snorkel tube shorter causes any problems?
I think I have one in my spares.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:36 AM   #14243
andrius
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Location: Lithuania, Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Possibly the float is too high? Anyone have pics of the metal tab on the float and where its supposed to be set at?
Sorry, don't know at what heigth float is supposed to be. There should be two ways to check it:
1. With tube connected to the lowest part of carburator (when on bike);
2. with calliper (roller) when carb is dismantled.

I could attach pictures from my manual, but I don't have imageshack or similar account to place pictures at the moment...

As for example You can check this online manual:
http://er5.atw.hu/letoltesek/Kawasak...Manual_ENG.pdf
Pages are: 2-10, 2-11 and 2-12

When check Yours DR manual for info.

I hope this info is clear enough :)
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:02 AM   #14244
OldUKBikerGuy
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Location: Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
Oddometer: 26
Great 'snow' pictures, BobOneLeg; I'm SO jealous!

Not very far away, here on the South Coast, we just got slushy crap.
(Enough excuse to close the schools though...)

Good to see you out having some fun......!
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:30 AM   #14245
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boboneleg View Post
In south-west England...........












oooooooooops

Hi, Bob. Nice ride, and nice wind screen combo. Another "98 in England with early forks... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=14177
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:34 AM   #14246
ADV BUM
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Looking for DR350 rear wheel compatibility

DR250 - Direct swap I believe

Drz400?

Rm125/250?
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:42 AM   #14247
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrius View Post
One more thing to check (adjust) would be float heigth. Fellow from my local forum had similar problem - engine started easily without choke (even in cold weather), and after reaching working temperature it died. The problem was improper float heigth (the bike was high mileage), causing too rich mixture.
If it was a high mileage BST33 equipped model, it could have easily been running rich because of a worn out emulsion tube (which is caused by a worn out slide guide). A worn out emulsion tube affects the same rpm range as float height does, and increasing the float height can to a limited extent be used to compensate for emulsion tube wear.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:49 AM   #14248
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Possibly the float is too high?
It would have to be too low. Increasing leans the mixture and decreasing richens. I would not set it to other than stock specification unless I knew that the mixture needed to be changed at low rpm at all openings, and had a good way to evaluate the change (such as testing on a 5-gas EGA equipped brake dyno).


Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:52 AM   #14249
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrius View Post
1. With tube connected to the lowest part of carburator (when on bike)
That checks the fuel level.
Quote:
2. with calliper (roller) when carb is dismantled.
Using a float height setting tool will be more accurate and less time consuming.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:10 AM   #14250
Hotmamaandme
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Gardnerville NV
Oddometer: 2,613
Trade?

I got a seat bag for sale but im also looking for a DR350 after market skid plate trade

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...3#post20526103

Also listed a stock exhaust and K&N air filter for the DR350

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...1#post20526161
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