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Old 01-30-2013, 08:06 AM   #14506
RuggedExposure
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicken Helmet View Post
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....7&postcount=45

Could this be causing any of the issues?
That was one of the first things I inspected on the carb. Amazingly my repair on that has held up and the pumper is still functioning. If that did fail, the only thing that would happen is the pumper not squirting a little bit of extra fuel into the intake... good eye though.
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Border Road 100 Border Road Rally Raid
'13 Husky Terra 650, '08 Kawasaki Meanstreak 1600, '95 DR350S
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:12 AM   #14507
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I hope you all are right. Even if I part this junker out, I'm still going to have to roll the dice on a criagslist buy that may have worse problems. So I might as well keep this since its street legal. Hopefully later today I can do the liquid test on the heads. If it fails miserably (seeps liquid quickly), is that most likely the source of my problems?

I'll also start on pulling the jug. I have downloaded the DR350 shop manual. Does anyone else have a link to other online literature on taking these things apart and putting them back together?
It probably wouldn't hurt to go back and read DisTech's rebuild thread.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528784

and Pablo's rebuild thread.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=620198 for some helpful hints and great pics.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:23 AM   #14508
bullittman281
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some input:
That style of piston ring compressor will work but remember the piston has to go in from the bottom. So, you need to be careful not to beat the case up w/ the compressor putting it together and then you have completely undo it to get it of of the rod. If its small enough it will work but it will up a fight.

You'll need a torque-wrench. One that goes low enough. You'll hate life more after you strip the cases.
The engine Cant be turned unless the you tension the cam chain and make sure its not binding on any thing.

If you don't find anything obviously wrong, I'd be hesitant to replace any parts or seals until the problem is resolved. Then you can proceed with new parts. Unless you find something obvious, then all this goes out the window.

My classes start at 10:00. Either call me before 10:00 or between 12:00 and 1:00. I'm done for the day after 5:15.

bullittman
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:26 AM   #14509
Chicken Helmet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
That was one of the first things I inspected on the carb. Amazingly my repair on that has held up and the pumper is still functioning. If that did fail, the only thing that would happen is the pumper not squirting a little bit of extra fuel into the intake... good eye though.
Gotcha.
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1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:29 AM   #14510
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,207
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
It probably wouldn't hurt to go back and read DisTech's rebuild thread.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528784

and Pablo's rebuild thread.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=620198 for some helpful hints and great pics.
Already been lurking through Distech's...
Never knew about Pablo's. Thanks!
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The fear and dread of you will fall on all the beasts of the earth

Border Road 100 Border Road Rally Raid
'13 Husky Terra 650, '08 Kawasaki Meanstreak 1600, '95 DR350S
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:31 AM   #14511
RuggedExposure
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,207
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullittman281 View Post
some input:
That style of piston ring compressor will work but remember the piston has to go in from the bottom. So, you need to be careful not to beat the case up w/ the compressor putting it together and then you have completely undo it to get it of of the rod. If its small enough it will work but it will up a fight.

You'll need a torque-wrench. One that goes low enough. You'll hate life more after you strip the cases.
The engine Cant be turned unless the you tension the cam chain and make sure its not binding on any thing.

If you don't find anything obviously wrong, I'd be hesitant to replace any parts or seals until the problem is resolved. Then you can proceed with new parts. Unless you find something obvious, then all this goes out the window.

My classes start at 10:00. Either call me before 10:00 or between 12:00 and 1:00. I'm done for the day after 5:15.

bullittman
Ya. Gonna do the liquid test now. If that doesn't show any issues I'll be checking out the piston rings.
I'm heading to El Paso now to go put my name down for the next Terra that shows up.

I'll give you a holler this evening before I start shift.
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The fear and dread of you will fall on all the beasts of the earth

Border Road 100 Border Road Rally Raid
'13 Husky Terra 650, '08 Kawasaki Meanstreak 1600, '95 DR350S
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:35 AM   #14512
Chicken Helmet
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FWIW when we c.c. heads we use rubbing alcohol. May want to use it as its "thinner" than the viscosity of fuel.
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1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:38 AM   #14513
bullittman281
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Any body got a good video or REALLY good advice on how to walk the rings off a piston w/o braking them for somebody that's never done it? A good video would be helpful here. I've done it but not RE.

bullittman
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:48 AM   #14514
RuggedExposure
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicken Helmet View Post
FWIW when we c.c. heads we use rubbing alcohol. May want to use it as its "thinner" than the viscosity of fuel.
Thanks for the heads up.
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The fear and dread of you will fall on all the beasts of the earth

Border Road 100 Border Road Rally Raid
'13 Husky Terra 650, '08 Kawasaki Meanstreak 1600, '95 DR350S
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:03 AM   #14515
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullittman281 View Post
Any body got a good video or REALLY good advice on how to walk the rings off a piston w/o braking them for somebody that's never done it? A good video would be helpful here. I've done it but not RE.

bullittman
Not sure I'd worry about taking them off. No way I'd use em back. They can't cost that much. But if you want to try...carefully pull one end of the top compression ring out of it's groove and work it to the top of the piston. Then rotate it around/off the piston. Work the next ones to the top ring groove and repeat. Sorry, No guaranty they won't break. I've got a funny little ring expander tool that grabs the ring and spreds it kinda like inside snap ring pilers. Never seen another one, though. Here you go.... http://www.google.com/search?q=pisto...w=1280&bih=573

2bold2getold screwed with this post 01-30-2013 at 09:31 AM
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:36 AM   #14516
2bold2getold
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Ring compressor

This is the type of ring compressor I use, but I've also used a split bean can and a big geared hose clamp.

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool.../OTC-4840.html
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:57 AM   #14517
Chicken Helmet
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
This is the type of ring compressor I use, but I've also used a split bean can and a big geared hose clamp.

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool.../OTC-4840.html
I've got the one in the second pic. Bought it off the Matco truck that comes to work.
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1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:57 AM   #14518
PHILinFRANCE
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Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
Oddometer: 1,065
Leaky carb

Hi all
Asked this Q a while back but only just got back to my buddy !!!

Thing is , got a second hand carb and fitted it after he tried an old spare one of mine and on all carbs , fuel is pissing out of the over flow pipe in the bottom of the bowl, "sticking float" we tried that , built one carb out of 3 in all conatations !!!

Same thing happened, even tried bending one of the little brass plates up that holds the float needle to see if it would push the (don't know whats its called) looks like a 1/4 inch long pen with a rubber cone on the end that closes the fuel inlet.

It surly can't be the same problem on ALL 3 carbs ........................;got to the end of our tether now , tried all sorts , bike runs OK....ish , fair bit of popping from the carb (all 3) and fuel continues to run from the over flow !!! only way to stop it is to turn off at the tank

Any help / ideas appreciated

Phil
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:36 AM   #14519
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Hi all
Asked this Q a while back but only just got back to my buddy !!!

Thing is , got a second hand carb and fitted it after he tried an old spare one of mine and on all carbs , fuel is pissing out of the over flow pipe in the bottom of the bowl, "sticking float" we tried that , built one carb out of 3 in all conatations !!!

Same thing happened, even tried bending one of the little brass plates up that holds the float needle to see if it would push the (don't know whats its called) looks like a 1/4 inch long pen with a rubber cone on the end that closes the fuel inlet.

It surly can't be the same problem on ALL 3 carbs ........................;got to the end of our tether now , tried all sorts , bike runs OK....ish , fair bit of popping from the carb (all 3) and fuel continues to run from the over flow !!! only way to stop it is to turn off at the tank

Any help / ideas appreciated

Phil
Hi Phil. did you check the rubber o-ring that holds the seat in the carb body. If it's bad, gas will flow around the seat into the float bowl. The 1/4 inch pin is called the "needle" and the other part of the float valve is called the "seat" (needle rests on the seat to stop gas flow). Or float sunk (partially full of gas).
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:52 AM   #14520
RuggedExposure
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,207
Carb pics

Here are photos of the carb. Maybe some of you genius' can spot something I'm not noticing as to why the bike took a giant s***. I seriously doubt the carb could cause loss of compression, and the fact that it was running awesome with this jetting and needle position I don't know why it would suddenly fall on its face. Nevertheless, here are the pics:




My repair on the pumper lever is still working fine:


As per Bullittman281's advice, I replaced the stock screws with these allen wrench ones back in Sept:
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The fear and dread of you will fall on all the beasts of the earth

Border Road 100 Border Road Rally Raid
'13 Husky Terra 650, '08 Kawasaki Meanstreak 1600, '95 DR350S
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