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Old 03-01-2013, 11:47 AM   #14896
Suzuki Phil
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Location: Simi Valley, CA
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I run a stock counter sprocket but on the back I went to a 43 or 45. I can leave it in 2nd or 3rd and just chuck up hills. Before I was always shifting between the two to find the right spot.

That was four years ago and my chain and sprockets are worn so I'm switching to a 14/41 combo. On the high speed highway runs I'm peggin 7K at 65mph. Need to bring the rpm down since I'm turning my DR into a commuter bike with the high price of fuel in California.

SP
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:23 PM   #14897
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suzuki Phil View Post
I run a stock counter sprocket but on the back I went to a 43 or 45. I can leave it in 2nd or 3rd and just chuck up hills. Before I was always shifting between the two to find the right spot.

That was four years ago and my chain and sprockets are worn so I'm switching to a 14/41 combo. On the high speed highway runs I'm peggin 7K at 65mph. Need to bring the rpm down since I'm turning my DR into a commuter bike with the high price of fuel in California.

SP
Keep in mind that Suzuki changed the primary (crankshaft to clutch basket) gearing in 1994 when the DR350S got electric start. The older bikes have a primary reduction of 2.818 and newer ones are 3.200. Hence you can't compare sprockets between older and newer bikes. For instance 14/44 on an early bike is about the same as 15/41 on a newer one. The older bikes are a LOT taller geared. With the same sprockets on both there is about 700 rpms difference at 60mph. Here's a link to a little spreadsheet with all the gearing data in it... makes comparisons easy.
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:53 PM   #14898
redleger
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Keep in mind that Suzuki changed the primary (crankshaft to clutch basket) gearing in 1994 when the DR350S got electric start. The older bikes have a primary reduction of 2.818 and newer ones are 3.200. Hence you can't compare sprockets between older and newer bikes. For instance 14/44 on an early bike is about the same as 15/41 on a newer one. The older bikes are a LOT taller geared. With the same sprockets on both there is about 700 rpms difference at 60mph. Here's a link to a little spreadsheet with all the gearing data in it... makes comparisons easy.
That spreadsheet is awesome!
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:09 PM   #14899
PWRCRZR
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Location: Mid-Coast Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boardforever View Post
Put a new fender and flush mount signals on the DR tonight, they look great, thanks to Jesse @ Kientech.
looks good, what are the dimensions of those Keintech signals?
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:00 PM   #14900
daverbmxer
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: North Dakota
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Cheap Saddlebags

Does anyone have any recommendations on cheap saddlebags? These seem not too bad for the price.. any thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Motorcyc.../dp/B00946BQAO

I would like to get a rack for it also and mount a hard case to that. Do you think I would still be able to take a passenger then? Any thoughts on these cheap bags combined with the rack and hard case?
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:09 AM   #14901
mwilliamshs
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Location: Arkansas
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cheap luggage

Been considering the Bilt saddlebags from cycle gear. They're usually <$30 on sale.
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:58 AM   #14902
markk900
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Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Keep in mind that Suzuki changed the primary (crankshaft to clutch basket) gearing in 1994 when the DR350S got electric start. The older bikes have a primary reduction of 2.818 and newer ones are 3.200. Hence you can't compare sprockets between older and newer bikes. For instance 14/44 on an early bike is about the same as 15/41 on a newer one. The older bikes are a LOT taller geared. With the same sprockets on both there is about 700 rpms difference at 60mph. Here's a link to a little spreadsheet with all the gearing data in it... makes comparisons easy.
Love the spreadsheet!

Just to add a data point here, owner's manual for my 95 SES lists the newer primary ratio along with the older first gear ratio (2.416) as stock, plus 15/41 stock gearing. I run 15/43 for street riding and drop to 12/43 for tight off road (no need to shorten chain either so I carry the sprocket in my tool bag).
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:46 AM   #14903
Spad
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Vermont
Oddometer: 96
rebuild question

A while back I posted about my winter project, fixing the shift drum on my 99DR350SE with a sheared bolt (mea culpa). I ended up tearing the engine down, sending the drum off to Jesse for the larger bolt (as well as the crankshaft) and putting it back together.

This was my first time doing this so it didn't go like butter, but at the same time nothing else broke in the process and there weren't any parts left on the bench when I finished reassembly. However,...

The engine turns over OK, first by hand and then with the starter. Seems like I got the timing/valves together right. The transmission can only shift between two gears (not sure which two - I'm guessing high, since neither is N and I can roll the bike in gear) and the clutch doesn't fully release. I could rotate the drum OK by hand after I put it into the case and before clutch, etc. went back on.

As I get set to go back in, any ideas on what to look for this time? I've been working from the relevant manuals and replaced the parts they said to replace in the process (for the most part).

- Spad

P.S. I still look at this bike as my correspondence course in motorcycle maintenance, but it'd be nice to get it working again as well.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:50 AM   #14904
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,063
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spad View Post
A while back I posted about my winter project, fixing the shift drum on my 99DR350SE with a sheared bolt (mea culpa). I ended up tearing the engine down, sending the drum off to Jesse for the larger bolt (as well as the crankshaft) and putting it back together.

This was my first time doing this so it didn't go like butter, but at the same time nothing else broke in the process and there weren't any parts left on the bench when I finished reassembly. However,...

The engine turns over OK, first by hand and then with the starter. Seems like I got the timing/valves together right. The transmission can only shift between two gears (not sure which two - I'm guessing high, since neither is N and I can roll the bike in gear) and the clutch doesn't fully release. I could rotate the drum OK by hand after I put it into the case and before clutch, etc. went back on.

As I get set to go back in, any ideas on what to look for this time? I've been working from the relevant manuals and replaced the parts they said to replace in the process (for the most part).

- Spad

P.S. I still look at this bike as my correspondence course in motorcycle maintenance, but it'd be nice to get it working again as well.
My guess is that the "L" shaped bracket got bent when you tightened the shift drum bolt. It is very easy to bend and very difficult to see as bent until after you remove it.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

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Old 03-02-2013, 10:44 AM   #14905
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,289
Clutch release problem

The clutch not releasing fully is a common problem with some DR350s. There are at least three solutions mentioned on this thread. Some have said that replacing their clutch plates fixed the problem and others have increased the drum spacing by sanding the back side of the drum or adding a washer/spacer to the sleeve-drum sandwich.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=11211

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=133
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:57 AM   #14906
Stretch67
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As stated earlier, new Thrust Washers will certainly help relieve the dragging Inner Hub. I did this, as well as removing a couple thousandths of an inch from the rear gear face of the Inner Hub, and installed a new cable. The clutch works great now.

I Loc-Tited the Shift Drum Bolt and installed a kick-starter while I was in there.

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Stretch67 screwed with this post 03-02-2013 at 12:14 PM
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:58 PM   #14907
Spad
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Thanks for the responses! I'll open up the clutch side and check the L shaped plate (the bolt was torqued to the reduced spec in this thread, so I'm hopeful that isn't it) and relieve the back of the clutch basket. Funny, now that I've had the thing apart I can see how that would help (and may have been the problem in the first place).

Thanks, all (especially those that are repeating the favor of advice for me)

- Spad
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:13 PM   #14908
Mick350
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Location: Australia, NSW
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Hi guys, new to the forum.

I'm from Moonan Flat in NSW, Australia.

I have a 1991 DR350, recently pulled down ready for a full rebuild, and am considering buying a 1993 DR250s for commuting/play.

Will upload a photo when I figure out how. . .

Have read all 994 pages of this thread, plus Distech's build thread and Pablo's build thread.

Cheers, Mick.

Mick350 screwed with this post 03-02-2013 at 06:20 PM
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:22 PM   #14909
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick350 View Post
Hi guys, new to the forum.

I'm from Moonan Flat in NSW, Australia.

I have a 1991 DR350, recently pulled down ready for a full rebuild, and am considering buying a 1993 DR250s for commuting/play.

Will upload a photo when I figure out how. . .

Cheers, Mick.
Welcome, Mick350 and Here ya go.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919 SmugMug is owned by "Baldy", the site owner. I concider the $20 a year fee a contribution to this great free site. ;-D
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:37 PM   #14910
Mick350
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