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Old 03-08-2013, 04:39 PM   #14971
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The ignition switch on your bike does exactly the same thing as the kill switch. When it is in the OFF or locked position it simply grounds the CDI. Most likely the lead from the CDI or the ground lead from the switch is unplugged. I don't have a wiring diagram handy but it will be obvious if you look at one. I do recall the ground lead from the ignition switch is a separate single wire that plugs to the Suzuki standard black with white stripe ground circuit.
Just looked at my manual. The wire from the CDI that grounds the ignition is B/Y. Sounds like the ignition switch lost it's ground through the B/W wire, as you said, or the contacts in the switch are bad.
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:46 PM   #14972
Stretch67
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The key switches on older DR's do have a history of wearing out internally.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:06 PM   #14973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
I'd go for a set - especially if the "per unit" price keeps dropping. This deal is $102/ea.
Is that shipped? Id say get a few of them, and stick em on ebay, and if your feeling curious...make a set an auction and see how much they end up selling for? lol
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:53 PM   #14974
crowbot
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I Need a little advice on finding some parts. I'm in the market for some new fork seals on a 94 dr350 se, it has the original street forks on it. The problem is all I can find are dirt model fork seals. Bike bandit had some listed for an se but upon receiving the package it lists 90-99 s models and 97-99 se models. This leads me to believe they are wrong for my bike. Anybody know where I can find the correct ones?
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:24 PM   #14975
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crowbot

I'm betting they will fit your bike, call BikeBandit and ask to be sure, the later year ('98/'99) "S" model forks changed but the seals may still be the same as the 1990 thru 1997's.

Jeff (SoPaRider)

'96 DR350/441SET
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:47 AM   #14976
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For frame guards....has anyone ever thought to use Kydex? A buddy of mine has been making gun holsters out of it and it's easy to work with. Just a suggestion.
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Old 03-09-2013, 03:09 AM   #14977
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
For frame guards....has anyone ever thought to use Kydex? A buddy of mine has been making gun holsters out of it and it's easy to work with. Just a suggestion.
have to read what its about? never heard of the stuf
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:52 AM   #14978
RuggedExposure
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Does anyone have a gasket kit for sale or recommend where to get one for the DR?
Despite all the fun I'm having with my Husky, I still have this retarded horse (dr350) staring at me and I want it running again.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:59 AM   #14979
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My local dealer got me a gasket kit when I took apart the engine for my DR350SE, but it turned out it was for the DR350. They're not the same - the alternator side gasket is different, to allow for the starter, and there's an extra o-ring for the kickstarter that you don't much need. Everything else was OK. The individual gasket was available.

The kit wasn't Suzuki's - I can find out where it came from, but it didn't sound like it was hard for them to get for me.

I have a spare alternator-side case gasket and kickstarter o-ring for a DR350 if it's any use to you...

- Spad
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:06 AM   #14980
RandyM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowbot View Post
I Need a little advice on finding some parts. I'm in the market for some new fork seals on a 94 dr350 se, it has the original street forks on it. The problem is all I can find are dirt model fork seals. Bike bandit had some listed for an se but upon receiving the package it lists 90-99 s models and 97-99 se models. This leads me to believe they are wrong for my bike. Anybody know where I can find the correct ones?
I think they all take the same seals including the 98-99 models with cartrige forks. Check the part numbers on Ron ayers or some other OEM parts site to be sure.

Also Racetech carries all the seals and bushings. FYI the copper crush washer that seals the bolt in the bottom of the forks is a special size on the 99 cartrige forks and I had to grind down the outside diameter of an aluminum washer for mine. So I would order new washers from Suzuki if racetech does not have them.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:07 AM   #14981
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spad View Post
My local dealer got me a gasket kit when I took apart the engine for my DR350SE, but it turned out it was for the DR350. They're not the same - the alternator side gasket is different, to allow for the starter, and there's an extra o-ring for the kickstarter that you don't much need. Everything else was OK. The individual gasket was available.

The kit wasn't Suzuki's - I can find out where it came from, but it didn't sound like it was hard for them to get for me.

I have a spare alternator-side case gasket and kickstarter o-ring for a DR350 if it's any use to you...

- Spad
Thanks, I should have specified my situation better.
I took the top end apart and need the gaskets for the jug, head, etc.
I guess you would call it a 'top end' gasket set.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:17 AM   #14982
RandyM
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I had to replace a destroyed lower chain guide on my DR350 and I have another damaged one on my DR250. I bought both a Moose and Kientech chain guide so I'll post up a comparison of them.

Moose chain guide cost about $50 off ebay, has a sticker indicating it was made by "Freddete racing" on it, and based on packing labels fits a variety of motorcycles. There is a note in the instructions indicating that Suzukis may need additional spacers. The Moose CG mounts using 2 of the 3 holes on the swingharm. When I tried to install it, I found that the chain would rub on the aluminum plate with the included spacers. I could make it work but I would need to get different spacers and longer bolts to install it.

The Kientech CG cost $75. Jesse said he was sending me the adjustable one for the DR650 which also fits the DR350 and is a little different than the one pictured on his web site. It uses all 3 mounting holes on the swing arm and has 3 positions for the lower wear block to adjust the chain position. I used the middle position. It also has nylon side plates on the inside so if the chain rubs on the sides, it will rub nylon instead of aluminum. The Kientech chain guide bolted right up.

Pics:


Moose on top, Kientech on bottom


Kientech (left) Moose (right)



Kientech (left) Moose (right)


Kientech chain guide installed.


I did not put the Moose chain guide on my DR250 yet. It looks like I need to pick up some washers and put them between the wear blocks and alumumunum side plates to give a little more space for the chain and longer spacers and bolts to mount it to the swing arm.

The M6 x 20mm mounting bolts that came with the Kientech guide were a little short, they don't quite fill up the lock nut, and I think I'll replace them with 25mm long bolts just to be safe.

In summary, I think the Moose guide is adaquate for most of us and more durable than the stock plastic one, but the Kientech chain guide fits better and is even tougher.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:29 AM   #14983
RandyM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Thanks, I should have specified my situation better.
I took the top end apart and need the gaskets for the jug, head, etc.
I guess you would call it a 'top end' gasket set.
You only need a gasket for the cylinder-case and head gasket. Cometic makes a kit with both gaskets. Then there is the exhaust seal. I got a no-name exhaust seal off ebay for about $3. It was ugly and looked low quality but it seems to work. I think there are also a few O-rings and copper washers on the oil lines.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:53 AM   #14984
Wadester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
For frame guards....has anyone ever thought to use Kydex? A buddy of mine has been making gun holsters out of it and it's easy to work with. Just a suggestion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
have to read what its about? never heard of the stuf
Kydex is a thermoplastic sheet material. Heat it up in the oven, then form it.
"Kydex sheet is an extremely durable Acrylic-PVC alloy extruded in a range of colors, textures, and patterns. Kydex thickness ranges from .028 to .250 and full sheets are available in 48" x 96" and 48" x 120 ft rolls. Kydex can be thermoformed, post formed, brake formed and laminated."
http://www.interstateplastics.com/ky...for_sale_E.php

Used for many things - but not UV resistant or rated for unprotected outdoor use. It's hard, slick and springy, so it would be a great material for a frame guard - except for the sun eating it up. Might last long enough not to care.
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:23 PM   #14985
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyM View Post
You only need a gasket for the cylinder-case and head gasket. Cometic makes a kit with both gaskets. Then there is the exhaust seal. I got a no-name exhaust seal off ebay for about $3. It was ugly and looked low quality but it seems to work. I think there are also a few O-rings and copper washers on the oil lines.
Thanks. I'll look for it.
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