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Old 05-17-2007, 08:20 PM   #1
huhwhye OP
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Steering head race removal help needed

So I'm trying to get these races out of my R100GS. Would appreciate any help on the subject.

I know about the special tool but don't have it and don't know where to get it.

I tried tapping on them with a punch. I tried the dry ice to no avail. Still have a bunch of try ice left but it doesn't seem to get it that cold.

Any suggestions? Thanks
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Old 05-17-2007, 09:04 PM   #2
C.J.
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May not be the approved way but worked for me.
Dremel tool with cut off wheel.
Go slow and cut slot in race. Pop right out.
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Old 05-17-2007, 09:30 PM   #3
Zen Slug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huhwhye
I know about the special tool but don't have it and don't know where to get it.
If anybody owns this tool and would be willing to donate it to the TooL PooL we'd be much obliged
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Old 05-17-2007, 09:46 PM   #4
C.J.
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One more note on the grinding. If you get a little squimish stop and crack it with a chisel and hammer half way or a bit more.
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:18 AM   #5
jtwind
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Ed Korn makes a tool, it's $51. http://www.cycleworks.net/
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Old 05-18-2007, 08:52 AM   #6
R-dubb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.J.
One more note on the grinding. If you get a little squimish stop and crack it with a chisel and hammer half way or a bit more.

That cutting method is really good idea. Reality is, even if you knick the seat area with the grinder, it won't matter. The bearings don't roll on that surface and the new race will still fit just fine. Not to say you can just go hog wild, but a careful job involves minimal risk. Even with a puller, damage, or more likely frustration could be a bigger problem. The inner edge is so small and difficult to reach, your method avoids all of that.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:18 AM   #7
Tim McKittrick
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My favorite method is to run a short bead in the center of the bearing face with the mig welder- the bearing shrinks a little as the weld cools and falls out. There is no damage to the race seat and it's fast- assuming you happen to have a mig outfit over in the corner of the garage.

This method has been the most helpful for removing races from the swingarms of my /2s, which do not provide any means to get behind the race to push it out. A quick weld, let it cool, and bonk it on a wood block and the race falls out.
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:44 AM   #8
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You can make a tool with a 3/4" diameter piece of iron water pipe with a cap screwed on the end. What you want to do here is make a tool that has a sharp edge on it to fit under the edge of the race and pry it up.

So, screw the cap on the water pipe. With the the steering bearings removed and the races exposed notice how nicely the cap fits into the center of the race and rests against the frame. All you have to do is to grind a sharp edge into the radius of the cap so it will fit under the edge of the race and gently pry it up.

Just pry a little on one side then the other and it will slowly come right out of there.
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:58 AM   #9
R-dubb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim McKittrick
My favorite method is to run a short bead in the center of the bearing face with the mig welder- the bearing shrinks a little as the weld cools and falls out. There is no damage to the race seat and it's fast- assuming you happen to have a mig outfit over in the corner of the garage.

This method has been the most helpful for removing races from the swingarms of my /2s, which do not provide any means to get behind the race to push it out. A quick weld, let it cool, and bonk it on a wood block and the race falls out.
Now we're really talking. That is so easy!!!
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:36 PM   #10
lesman
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Bearing race removal/install

Hi,
I did the welding bead method. The race almost fell out. I did a very gentle tap with a chisel and it fell. To put the new race in ...use the old race to tap in or buy 2 washers and a threaded rod. One washer should fit over the steering head and the other should be the same size as the race. be sure to put the race in the freezer for 1/2 hour or longer before install. I have used the dremel method.. it works fine also.



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Old 05-21-2007, 08:01 PM   #11
mutineer
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this worked on the top race









popped right out after a few minutes


the bottom one


not so much



dremel'd that one and it was a major pain in the ass

of course after I was done I had some dry ice to play with







when the bottle blows it makes a hell of pop



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Old 05-21-2007, 08:26 PM   #12
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I borrowed an Ed Korn tool from a generous airhead. It cost me $7.20 in postage. That was a cheap tool rental.

Man, it was so easy, maybe 2 minutes to set it up for the top race and that included reading the directions. The bottom one took all of a minute.

But, I have to say I have no neat story to relate and there wasn't any banging away with hammers, punches or using welding machines or grinders.
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