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Old 11-02-2013, 08:26 AM   #2236
Barry
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Not feeling the new Jeeps... if I were going newer, I'd go Forerunner.

Like my XJ for what I need, but if it shits the bed I'd probably get a Toyota of some sort.
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:54 PM   #2237
Mambo Dave
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Figured I'd post this again here.

I know it's near impossible to give a value on a Jeep without seeing it, but...

For this YJ Jeep: http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/4124763281.html


I could live with it, but it has 'bling' on it that I have no use for, some of which I don't even like (chrome, the wheels with worn tires, a bunch of lights that are mounted in a way that is only OK at lower speeds), and is missing a few things I think I should have
  • - spare tire/wheel
  • - spare tire carrier
  • - jack of any sort
  • - heater core (yes, someone took it out and blocked off the holes) & blower & everything that belongs down there
  • - air conditioning (not a neccessity if I could add a JeepAir kit)
But it does really seem to have a rebuilt motor, a new clutch (tested it), a Hurst shifter, Auto Meter gauges. The steering is fine, but the speedo is way, way off considering that with the larger tires on it the speedo should be reading slower than the stated speed, but instead it's reading something like 100 MPH if it hits 75 (according to the owner who says this is a gear that needs changed - my question still stands as to why it is reading faster instead of slower).

The hood is creased from flipping up at speed, and the front bumper bent in.

Steers OK, starts OK, two new tie-rod ends.

It is painted blue on the outside, but in the engine compartment everything is still the original red. The frame and body seem more rust free than I imagined they could be on a 1990, but then I'm used to Penssylvania vehicles.

There is absolutely no way to tell how many miles are on the thing.


1990 YJ - with that said, how much do you all think it's worth? I think I'm looking at a rear bumper / wheel carrier for ~ $800, a spare wheel and tire, and -some- form of heat just in case I go anywhere, or get another job that isn't 3 miles from the house (yes, at speed even the 35 degrees we get down here some winter days gets really cold).

Asking price is something like $6950, and the guy told me some kids came by offering $6200 and he wouldn't take it. Not sure that's the case since on the phone days earlier he told me people were low-balling him in the $2000 and $3000 price ranges.
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Old 11-02-2013, 01:00 PM   #2238
Barry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Figured I'd post this again here.

I know it's near impossible to give a value on a Jeep without seeing it, but...

For this YJ Jeep: http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/4124763281.html


I could live with it, but it has 'bling' on it that I have no use for, some of which I don't even like (chrome, the wheels with worn tires, a bunch of lights that are mounted in a way that is only OK at lower speeds), and is missing a few things I think I should have
  • - spare tire/wheel
  • - spare tire carrier
  • - jack of any sort
  • - heater core (yes, someone took it out and blocked off the holes) & blower & everything that belongs down there
  • - air conditioning (not a neccessity if I could add a JeepAir kit)
But it does really seem to have a rebuilt motor, a new clutch (tested it), a Hurst shifter, Auto Meter gauges. The steering is fine, but the speedo is way, way off considering that with the larger tires on it the speedo should be reading slower than the stated speed, but instead it's reading something like 100 MPH if it hits 75 (according to the owner who says this is a gear that needs changed - my question still stands as to why it is reading faster instead of slower).

The hood is creased from flipping up at speed, and the front bumper bent in.

Steers OK, starts OK, two new tie-rod ends.

It is painted blue on the outside, but in the engine compartment everything is still the original red. The frame and body seem more rust free than I imagined they could be on a 1990, but then I'm used to Penssylvania vehicles.

There is absolutely no way to tell how many miles are on the thing.


1990 YJ - with that said, how much do you all think it's worth? I think I'm looking at a rear bumper / wheel carrier for ~ $800, a spare wheel and tire, and -some- form of heat just in case I go anywhere, or get another job that isn't 3 miles from the house (yes, at speed even the 35 degrees we get down here some winter days gets really cold).

Asking price is something like $6950, and the guy told me some kids came by offering $6200 and he wouldn't take it. Not sure that's the case since on the phone days earlier he told me people were low-balling him in the $2000 and $3000 price ranges.
Seems high to me for what you get. I'd keep looking, too many out there to buy one with options you don't want...
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:41 PM   #2239
Jeffy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Figured I'd post this again here.

I know it's near impossible to give a value on a Jeep without seeing it, but...

For this YJ Jeep: http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/4124763281.html


I could live with it, but it has 'bling' on it that I have no use for, some of which I don't even like (chrome, the wheels with worn tires, a bunch of lights that are mounted in a way that is only OK at lower speeds), and is missing a few things I think I should have
  • - spare tire/wheel
  • - spare tire carrier
  • - jack of any sort
  • - heater core (yes, someone took it out and blocked off the holes) & blower & everything that belongs down there
  • - air conditioning (not a neccessity if I could add a JeepAir kit)
But it does really seem to have a rebuilt motor, a new clutch (tested it), a Hurst shifter, Auto Meter gauges. The steering is fine, but the speedo is way, way off considering that with the larger tires on it the speedo should be reading slower than the stated speed, but instead it's reading something like 100 MPH if it hits 75 (according to the owner who says this is a gear that needs changed - my question still stands as to why it is reading faster instead of slower).

The hood is creased from flipping up at speed, and the front bumper bent in.

Steers OK, starts OK, two new tie-rod ends.

It is painted blue on the outside, but in the engine compartment everything is still the original red. The frame and body seem more rust free than I imagined they could be on a 1990, but then I'm used to Penssylvania vehicles.

There is absolutely no way to tell how many miles are on the thing.


1990 YJ - with that said, how much do you all think it's worth? I think I'm looking at a rear bumper / wheel carrier for ~ $800, a spare wheel and tire, and -some- form of heat just in case I go anywhere, or get another job that isn't 3 miles from the house (yes, at speed even the 35 degrees we get down here some winter days gets really cold).

Asking price is something like $6950, and the guy told me some kids came by offering $6200 and he wouldn't take it. Not sure that's the case since on the phone days earlier he told me people were low-balling him in the $2000 and $3000 price ranges.
As I eluded to in the other post, it's not worth $6200. It's not even worth $4000. I can't tell if it had a SYE but judging from the why it was built, I'm thinking Tcase shims. The Jeeps a bit of a mess.

I would seriously look elsewhere. I also highly recommend buying a stock Jeep. Most of the time you end up spending more time reversing what the PO did to it. Otherwise, take someone who know's Jeeps well with you.

With that said here's what $6500 could get you out west.



5 speed manual with 4.0 in line 6.
Has on board air Dana 44 axles with 4.88 gears and Detroit lockers front and rear. Slip yoke eliminator with long slip drive lines. After market A.C. 35" tires Great running and driving jeep. Too much to list call or text with questions
209 three52-three883

http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/cto/4138046667.html
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:12 PM   #2240
longtallsally
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What Jeffy said. And he knows YJs. My biggest flag on that guy is the 258. I thought the 4.0 went in in '90?

Looks like a half assed rebuilt that if it was yours, it's fine, but for a buyer, not so much.
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:33 PM   #2241
Jeffy
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Originally Posted by longtallsally View Post
What Jeffy said. And he knows YJs. My biggest flag on that guy is the 258. I thought the 4.0 went in in '90?

Looks like a half assed rebuilt that if it was yours, it's fine, but for a buyer, not so much.
Nope, '91 was the first year for the 4.0L and MPFI. Before that the 4.2L was the Carter BBD Carb. It's getting hard to find a YJ that's not modified anymore. TJ's have dropped into the dirt cheap category while CJ's are either projects, crawlers/buggies or restorations. There's not much in-between.
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Old 11-02-2013, 08:04 PM   #2242
redsport
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Another vote in the no category, Mambo Dave. I don't see anywhere near $6500 of value there.
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:54 PM   #2243
Mambo Dave
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Seriously, thank you guys.

With the amount I work I kinda felt that maybe to have a rebuilt motor, new seals in the tranny, gauges, Tuffy box and glove box, shifter, and a solid body were all I should ask for at about that price range.

I was toying with paying him the $6400 that was his minimum there. Sure, parts of that YJ aren't what I want, but I'd be laying money down to hope the investment was good for a long term daily driver.

Now I think I'm just going to hold off. This opens it back up to finding a CJ7 or a YJ as my daily driver.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy View Post

With that said here's what $6500 could get you out west.

Wow - I want that Jeep!

http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4138348173.html - holy cow - you're right! That's a good looking jeep too
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X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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Old 11-03-2013, 12:05 PM   #2244
Jeffy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Seriously, thank you guys.

Wow - I want that Jeep!

http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4138348173.html - holy cow - you're right! That's a good looking jeep too
Things you should be aware of. There's no mention of engine. That color was common for the Rio Grande which was the 2.5L upscale model. The corner guards are blocking where it would say Rio Grande. There's also no mention of axles and gearing which I bet are stock. The Jeep has what looks like a 2-3" body lift. Since you're peculiar with the shifter location, this means they will be 2-3" lower. With the spring over axle and the body lift, you're looking at around 7-5-8.5" of lift. You can tell the Jeep didn't come with a hard top stock and the soft top door uppers don't seal with the hardtop. There's a fairly large gap there that you can't see. A lot of the mods will have to be corrected which means that $3500 Jeep will be closer to $5000. I'm bettering it's a 2.5L which is why it's around $1000-1500 less then if it was a 4.0L. Though, if it was a 4.0L, I wouldn't buy it over the one I posted earlier. All that one needs is for you to drive it.

General rule of thumb when in doubt, more stock is better.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/4083608964.html

This is a Renegade which has wide body flares stock. Not everyone likes these but they are a bit rarer.
http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/4155164591.html
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:57 PM   #2245
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy View Post
Things you should be aware of. There's no mention of engine. That color was common for the Rio Grande which was the 2.5L upscale model. The corner guards are blocking where it would say Rio Grande. There's also no mention of axles and gearing which I bet are stock. The Jeep has what looks like a 2-3" body lift. Since you're peculiar with the shifter location, this means they will be 2-3" lower. With the spring over axle and the body lift, you're looking at around 7-5-8.5" of lift. You can tell the Jeep didn't come with a hard top stock and the soft top door uppers don't seal with the hardtop. There's a fairly large gap there that you can't see. A lot of the mods will have to be corrected which means that $3500 Jeep will be closer to $5000. I'm bettering it's a 2.5L which is why it's around $1000-1500 less then if it was a 4.0L. Though, if it was a 4.0L, I wouldn't buy it over the one I posted earlier. All that one needs is for you to drive it.

General rule of thumb when in doubt, more stock is better.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/4083608964.html

This is a Renegade which has wide body flares stock. Not everyone likes these but they are a bit rarer.
http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/4155164591.html

Gotcha! So - no body lift due to shifter... good thinking!

Re: the 4.2L

That I've read, I have no reason to dislike it, or to like the 4.0L better. Fuel injection is nice for some places, but here in a warmer state, at sea level, it's not like FI would be correcting for much variation in temp or elevation anyway.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 4.2L is still as strong of a motor as a 4.0L?
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X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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Old 11-03-2013, 04:52 PM   #2246
Jeffy
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Gotcha! So - no body lift due to shifter... good thinking!

Re: the 4.2L

That I've read, I have no reason to dislike it, or to like the 4.0L better. Fuel injection is nice for some places, but here in a warmer state, at sea level, it's not like FI would be correcting for much variation in temp or elevation anyway.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 4.2L is still as strong of a motor as a 4.0L?
The specs on the engines look like this;

4.2L - 112 hp @ 3000 rpm, 210 lb·ft @ 2000 rpm (1987-1990)
4.0L - 180 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 lb·ft @ 4000 rpm (1991-1995)
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:09 PM   #2247
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy View Post
The specs on the engines look like this;

4.2L - 112 hp @ 3000 rpm, 210 lb·ft @ 2000 rpm (1987-1990)
4.0L - 180 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 lb·ft @ 4000 rpm (1991-1995)
Holy hell.

sorta...

now that I think about it, that torque down low counts for a lot, and I've slowly been learning to sort of ignore HP numbers.

Not sure what to think, but thank you for the numbers, good sir.
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Mambo Dave screwed with this post 11-03-2013 at 05:16 PM
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:59 PM   #2248
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Holy hell.

sorta...

now that I think about it, that torque down low counts for a lot, and I've slowly been learning to sort of ignore HP numbers.

Not sure what to think, but thank you for the numbers, good sir.
If you do a lot of highway driving then the HP is what you want to look at. The torque come in so slow that you won't be in the powerband for long. If you gave a Jeeper the choice, they could go with the 4.0L over the 4.2L by a pretty good margin.

Here some food for though. If you're not building it up too big and you don't plan on doing too much highway driving then you might consider a +1991 2.5L. They are geared lower from the factory and can handle 31's okay. The other thing about 2.5L is that they tend to be more plentiful and cleaner all around. Not to mention $1000-1500 cheaper.

2.5L - 123 hp @ 5250 rpm, 139 lb-ft @ 3250 rpm (1991-1995)
4.2L - 112 hp @ 3000 rpm, 210 lb·ft @ 2000 rpm (1987-1990)

Here's some other things to note. The 1987 4.2L YJ came with a Peugeot BA-10/5 5-speed manual and a NP-207 transfer case. For 1988 the transfer case was switched to the more common NP-231-J, still used today. Midway in 1989, the BA-10/5 was changed to the Aisin AX-15 which was used till 1999. You do not want a NP-207 and that probably goes for the BA-10/5 as well. The 1987-1990 YJ's also used a setup for the front axle disconnect. Jeep simplified the system for 1991-1995.5. The 1987-1990 rear brakes were also different. The more common setup are 9x2.5" drums. The 1987-1990 have 10x2". The 1987-1990 Jeep also has different rear axle shafts then the later Jeeps. You'll hear all about the C-clip Dana 35C. Earlier YJ's had the same Dana 35C but without the C-clips. This can be a problem if you ever have to get replacement axle shafts as Clip-less shafts aren't common as well.

All these differences make the earlier YJ's a bit of an oddball at times.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:12 PM   #2249
Mambo Dave
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Thank you. I was aware of the transmission changes, and seem to have narrowed it down to 1989 or newer. Seems like, based on the axle disconnect, 1991 might be the year to aim for.

Unless I find a CJ7 that I really want, lol.
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Old 11-03-2013, 06:46 PM   #2250
longtallsally
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Again, pay attention to Jeffy.

So my input:

- Nothing more than a 1" body lift (I read once about the tubs cracking with more)

- Anything larger than stock tires with a YJ requires a re-gear (I don't care the motor) and with the D30 and D35 I think the shortest you can get are 4.88

- Any suspension lift over 1" needs a slip yoke eliminator

- I personally don't think anything over 33" on the D30 and D35 is advisable. I ran 33s for many years fully locked, but I was well known for not being a throttle jockey and only busted one rear shaft in 14 years (due to my own stupidity and not being geared correctly)

- I personally think the autoboxes in all YJs are junk. The 5 speeds seem pretty durable.

- The vacuum system for the actuation of the right front wheel in 4wd at this point is almost certainly wasted. There is a mechanical system I think you can still get to replace it.

- RE: motors. Personally I think the 4.2 is poop (as proven by the stats Jeffy put up). I also think the 2.5 is under rated- you won't win any speed races, but geared correctly it will climb walls. The 4.0 is the benchmark of reliability and plenty powerful.
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