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Old 05-28-2007, 09:46 AM   #1
dwf OP
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NoMar vs Mojo Tire Changing Bar

I am in the process of ordering one of these two tire changing bars. Has anyone used both of these bars and can make a recommendation as to which one works best. The Mojo is not available for a few weeks but should be back then. They appear to use two different techniques for installation. Thanks
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:02 AM   #2
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I just finished a tire change with the no mar bar and it went well no real problems with the right technique.
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Old 05-28-2007, 01:05 PM   #3
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I noticed in the Q&A section of Nomar they mention you might want to use their levers instead of the bar with Tourance and other heavier tires. Is anyone using the Nomar bar with Tourance, etc. successfully?
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Old 05-28-2007, 01:16 PM   #4
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I just used it with two tourances on my 1200gs adv. No problemo. Its all about technique not strength. You gotta outsmart the tire...which is alittle harder than you would think
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Old 05-28-2007, 01:18 PM   #5
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Did you pretty much follow the video on their website? Did you use the wood blocks on the oposite side from the lever?

Quote:
Originally Posted by poobah
I just used it with two tourances on my 1200gs adv. No problemo. Its all about technique not strength. You gotta outsmart the tire...which is alittle harder than you would think
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Old 05-28-2007, 02:32 PM   #6
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I used one block which I held in place with one of those motorcycle tie downs because it kept popping out. I just put the block in and then wrapped the tie around the tire and rim and pulled it tight over the block. It was really pretty easy. I was shocked at how smoothly the tire came off and getting them on was only marginally harder (in fact I did it with two fractured ribs )

The bitchyist part was getting the damn bead to seat with my crappy compresser. I ended up having to drive each tire to tire kingdom to get the bead seated. Make sure you have a good compressor before you get started!
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:53 PM   #7
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Poohbah - you can try a tiedown strap around the circumference of the tire and ratchet it tight to start the tire to mount the rim, then pop the strap loose to fill the tire.


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Old 07-16-2009, 07:10 PM   #8
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Reviving an old thread

It's been a while since this thread has seen the light of day, but there wasn't much of an answer to the original question.

Is there any reason to go with Nomar over Mojo? I need to change my tires soon and the HF lever sucks.
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:19 AM   #9
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I've owned both the No-Mar and Mojo...

...The Mojo is best hands down! No contest!

The ONLY downside is you may have to wait until the guy makes another batch.

I can mount up all but the stiffest knobbies using one hand (with the HF changer and Mojo)

Great product and worth every penny.

The NoMar bar (mine was from 2006, so it may have changed since) by contrast was a real PITA to use and never really worked right for me.

With any tire mounting the key is getting the bead opposite where you're working into the detent at the center of the rim.

Oh yeah, and there's no need for clamps or blocks with the Mojo. In over 2 years of using the Mojo and probably 50 tire changes, never had to clamp anything.
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:35 AM   #10
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Thanks that's exactly the answer I needed.
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:00 PM   #11
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I have used both the Coats 220 and the No-Mar tire changes.

The No-Mar mount-dismount bar is an interesting design but I still prefer the Coats Combo tool for mounting/dismounting tires.

I can't seem to find a good photo of the Coats tool but here's a photo of the NoMar tool.

http://www.nomartirechanger.com/images/product/BarHeroPlus.jpg?1234753477
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:28 PM   #12
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I'm going to disagree that you don't need to clamp anything. you will need some way to secure the wheel. I have the mojo and learned to use it correctly. It took me a few tries. Look it up on youtube. the subtly difference is to put the bar on the rim, the lay the tire down over the bar and them start pressing the bead down. I was doing it the other way any the tool popped out many times.

I don't use wood blocks, i usually put the bar around with one hand or my stomac and push the bead down with the free hand.



Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS
...The Mojo is best hands down! No contest!

The ONLY downside is you may have to wait until the guy makes another batch.

I can mount up all but the stiffest knobbies using one hand (with the HF changer and Mojo)

Great product and worth every penny.

The NoMar bar (mine was from 2006, so it may have changed since) by contrast was a real PITA to use and never really worked right for me.

With any tire mounting the key is getting the bead opposite where you're working into the detent at the center of the rim.

Oh yeah, and there's no need for clamps or blocks with the Mojo. In over 2 years of using the Mojo and probably 50 tire changes, never had to clamp anything.
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Old 07-19-2009, 07:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasong70
I'm going to disagree that you don't need to clamp anything. you will need some way to secure the wheel. I have the mojo and learned to use it correctly. It took me a few tries. Look it up on youtube. the subtly difference is to put the bar on the rim, the lay the tire down over the bar and them start pressing the bead down. I was doing it the other way any the tool popped out many times.

I don't use wood blocks, i usually put the bar around with one hand or my stomac and push the bead down with the free hand.
I think he means that you don't need clamps to hold the bead down in the valley of the rim.

I just bought a HF changer and Mojo bar and once you get the technique down it's pretty easy.

I had a hard time figuring the right way to mount the tire, i.e. how to keep the bead forcing the lever to the rim to keep it from poping out. Once I learned the trick there it was a piece of cake. It's hard to explain you just need to do it.
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Old 07-19-2009, 08:19 AM   #14
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I recently put on Tourances with the NoMar tool. No problems. It's all about the lube. I had a MOJO type lever from a Wikco tire changer. The angled end would catch the rubber on install some times.

Lube, warm rubber (more flexible) and technique is the key.
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