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Old 06-13-2007, 06:40 PM   #16
tahoeacr OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg
EGT, CHT and so on are far more common terms and displays in airplane cockpits. Are those usually airplane vendors? Of course an engine is an engine, so it should all work fine.

You will have I'm sure the most instrumented 990 ever!
Aircraft stuff. You got to like it. Only takes the same room as 3 normal 2" gauges. One thing I learned working for race teams the last ten years is data aquisition is very important when you make changes. Going to play with the airbox. When the intake air is 130 with an ambient temp of 75 there's got to be room for improvement. I wanted the EGT but CHT just came with it. Now I can test that Redline water wetter and see if it really does lower CHT's .
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Old 06-13-2007, 06:44 PM   #17
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We will all benefit from your knowledge that is, if you tell us what the good fixes are!
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Old 06-13-2007, 06:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg
Maybe slap an Ohmmeter on the valve coil and read the resistance. Then a small resistor can take it's place? It can't be super-tricky if there's just 2 wires to the relay unless it's a CANbus link, then that's a whole 'nother can of worms, with ID codes etc... I haven't taken the bike apart yet, only had my 990S 3 days!
Eehh those funny emblem stuff. I barely have a handle on voltage.
O.k. so there's 25.1 ohms resistance thru the valve. 42.8 thru the plug. 3.1 with key on. Do I just hook a 25.1 ohms resistor to the positive and negitive of the plug? Since I have everything apart right now I might as well do it.
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Old 06-13-2007, 11:47 PM   #19
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Just rode the bike after doing the first service including valve adjustment and cannisterectomy. Measured 25.5 ohms resistance on the evap valve. I think a 25 ohm resistor placed on the connector is what is needed. I'm going to pick up a resistor tomorrow to test.

I topped up the gas tanks and am anxious to see how many miles it will take to see the reserve light.

If it works, I will get a Amp connector and solder/crimp the resistor to a male plug and will have that installed in place of the valve.



http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/ampconnectors.html
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Old 06-14-2007, 08:55 AM   #20
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What does the canisterectomy do for the gas tanks topping off?
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Old 06-14-2007, 12:37 PM   #21
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You can ignore this sticker:

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Old 06-14-2007, 01:57 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Lavigne
You can ignore this sticker:
Attachment 120303
Is that because either new vent lines are run high enough and or 2-way tank vent valves used? Again, I have as yet not taken the bike apart. I do have the shop manual on CD but bike is still so new I haven't browsed it much yet.

Any pix on OC of canisterectomies? I've searched a bit but forum search turns up way too many threads with titles that don't look like the right thing, so not very useful. Thanks.
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Old 06-14-2007, 02:19 PM   #23
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I'm used to putting the bike on the center stand when I fill her up with gas, so I ignore that sticker anyway. Am I missing something here?! What does the smog equipment have to do with the tanks?

Thanks!
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Old 06-14-2007, 02:52 PM   #24
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Eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Northbound
I'm used to putting the bike on the center stand when I fill her up with gas, so I ignore that sticker anyway. Am I missing something here?! What does the smog equipment have to do with the tanks?

Thanks!
Nothing... IMHO
I say this because I don't have that smog-thingy and know for a fact that if you ignore the recommendation on that sticker the tanks are gonna pour...
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Old 06-14-2007, 03:02 PM   #25
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but that sticker only implies the obvious, that if your bike is on the side stand, you can't fill the right side up all the way because when you put the bike vertical, it will overflow!?
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Old 06-14-2007, 04:01 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northbound
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that sticker only implies the obvious, that if your bike is on the side stand, you can't fill the right side up all the way because when you put the bike vertical, it will overflow!?
The whole issue is that if you fill both tanks up to the cap on the centerstand, then put it on the sidestand, the right side will blead over to the left. Then it will bleed off into the charcoal canister(which is in the left fairing). If enough fuel fills the charcoal canister, you can get to a no start situation.

Think about if you fall over. I know my charcoal canister would have burst from the pressure of overfilling before I can get this thing off the ground.

Other bonus that I'm looking for is if I can get rid of the valve, it opens up more room in front of the airbox opening.
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Old 06-14-2007, 11:09 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoeacr

Other bonus that I'm looking for is if I can get rid of the valve, it opens up more room in front of the airbox opening.
Now you're on to something.... hey this guy is pertty dnag smardt!
How about a pic of the disassembled beast!?
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Old 06-15-2007, 07:14 AM   #28
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Ok,I think I understand most of this now.But I have one question. I would like to get the touratech 12gal tanks, if I install them is that going to burst the charcoal thing if I drop the bike?
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Old 06-15-2007, 09:27 AM   #29
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Lavigne
Just rode the bike after doing the first service including valve adjustment and cannisterectomy. Measured 25.5 ohms resistance on the evap valve. I think a 25 ohm resistor placed on the connector is what is needed. I'm going to pick up a resistor tomorrow to test.

I topped up the gas tanks and am anxious to see how many miles it will take to see the reserve light.

If it works, I will get a Amp connector and solder/crimp the resistor to a male plug and will have that installed in place of the valve.



http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/ampconnectors.html
Steve, did you try the resistor test yet? One thing to mention is if the resistor get's too hot (to hot to touch) try a larger wattage value but same Ohms value. Normally for signal level stuff 1/4-watt is fine but if the ECU or similar is actually reading current (Amps) through the coil to determine if it is good or bad, it will expect that current and a larger resistor wattage value may be needed. One quick way is to put a DC ampmeter inline with the valve and take a current reading when it's on then a proper resistor value is easy to size. I have a fancy handheld DC clamp-loop current meter at work I can borrow to do non-invasive measurements. Damn I just need more time to play with this stuff myself.
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Old 06-15-2007, 09:39 AM   #30
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I read the cansitectomy comments that a clogged charcoal cansiter can lead to non-starting condition. What I get from this is if the canister is plugged then the tanks aren't vented which can lead to a vacuum in the tanks and potentially cause carbed systems to stop drawing fuel.

On EFI systems with the pump in the tank, a sealed tank might possibly pull so much vacuum it could collapse a tank (not too likely I think) but it would still circulate fuel in the EFI loop, so it may not have a similar issue about not starting or running, even with canisiter plugged, unless some other sensor shuts the bike down. Just speculating.

Why would a canister burst? Plug up yeah, but burst, probably not.

Also why remove SAS from the EFI models other than a bit of saved weight? My 990 does not pop on decel at all.
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