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Old 06-15-2007, 10:58 AM   #31
Northbound
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Question

I want to rip all the smog stuff off this weekend, should I just follow the steps for the 950? I guess i need to get the blanking plates first. I guess it won't be happening this weekend, unless anyone knows of any shops near the bay area that have them in stock??
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:09 AM   #32
tahoeacr OP
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Why would a canister burst?

That was dry humor. Being that it would take me about a week to pick this beast up.
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:29 AM   #33
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Even with FI you have to vent the tank. You can get enough vacuum to cause fuel pressure problems. I have never seen this on a bike(this is my first FI bike), but on another Adv. riders supercharge FI mustang it was a big issue. If I remember right, it only happened when the tank was down to near 3/8. Could be that a bike just doesn't have the volume. I don't think I have ever heard of someone having this issue on a FI 990. The carbs are diffinately sensitive to vacuum. My 990 also didn't have the drain tube on the can that I've heard some 950's have.
However, the SAS system is in my way for some sensors I want to add. These bikes are really packaged tight.
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Old 06-15-2007, 12:03 PM   #34
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northbound
I want to rip all the smog stuff off this weekend, should I just follow the steps for the 950? I guess i need to get the blanking plates first. I guess it won't be happening this weekend, unless anyone knows of any shops near the bay area that have them in stock??
If you can just rip it all off with no problems, let us know.
The FI bikes have a lot more sensors, maybe less vent tubes, and a fancier ECU watching those sensors.
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Old 06-15-2007, 12:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahoeacr
Even with FI you have to vent the tank. You can get enough vacuum to cause fuel pressure problems. I have never seen this on a bike(this is my first FI bike), but on another Adv. riders supercharge FI mustang it was a big issue. If I remember right, it only happened when the tank was down to near 3/8. Could be that a bike just doesn't have the volume. I don't think I have ever heard of someone having this issue on a FI 990. The carbs are diffinately sensitive to vacuum. My 990 also didn't have the drain tube on the can that I've heard some 950's have.
However, the SAS system is in my way for some sensors I want to add. These bikes are really packaged tight.
You should see how tight they pack my Aprilia RXV550 with FI, not one wasted millimeter! The RXV has a fuel pump in the tank too and is vented with a simple rubber hose of the cap, dirt bike style. I'll probably just pull off the canister and use simple rubber hose vents properly routed, no valves to clog up, like CPmodem did.

I've had 5 FI bikes and yes you must make sure the tank is vented.
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Old 06-15-2007, 02:31 PM   #36
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Ok YOU got me Tahoeacr! I don't think it would "burst". I guess what I was trying to ask was if I was going to have any problems With the SAS or the thing I thought would burst or the ECM,EFI and such if I install the larger touratech tanks.
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Old 06-15-2007, 02:36 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by WrongWay
Ok YOU got me Tahoeacr! I don't think it would "burst". I guess what I was trying to ask was if I was going to have any problems With the SAS or the thing I thought would burst or the ECM,EFI and such if I install the larger touratech tanks.
I could tell ya, but then you would have to meet me at VIR next time I'm there so I can check out those tanks . You won't have any worries.
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Old 06-15-2007, 02:49 PM   #38
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No problem!Only thing is, is that touratech keep changing there minds about when thay want to release them. First I was told early spring then I get an e-mail that it is now "maybe" early fall. So we will have to see.
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Old 06-15-2007, 03:31 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg
Steve, did you try the resistor test yet? One thing to mention is if the resistor get's too hot (to hot to touch) try a larger wattage value but same Ohms value. Normally for signal level stuff 1/4-watt is fine but if the ECU or similar is actually reading current (Amps) through the coil to determine if it is good or bad, it will expect that current and a larger resistor wattage value may be needed. One quick way is to put a DC ampmeter inline with the valve and take a current reading when it's on then a proper resistor value is easy to size. I have a fancy handheld DC clamp-loop current meter at work I can borrow to do non-invasive measurements. Damn I just need more time to play with this stuff myself.
I used the calculator one third of the way down the page on http://www.bcae1.com/resistrs.htm to determine that I needed a 10 watt resistor. I couldn't easily find the right wattage resistor locally, so I ended up ordering a couple of 10 watt 25 ohm resistors from http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...188422&Site=US and should have it in a week.

As far as performing the cannisterectomy, I just removed the vacuum fitting from each intake tube and plugged with a M6 8mm long internal hex allen bolt and washer with Loctite 242. The parts diagram for the non US bike calls for a 680mm 5.4mm ID hose from the top fuel tank vent to atmosphere. I ended up running a slightly longer 5mm ID hose over the radiator, terminating where the airbox vent and lower fuel tank vents are vented to atmosphere at the bottom of the bike, just inside the engine guard.
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Old 06-16-2007, 03:49 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racinace
Now you're on to something.... hey this guy is pertty dnag smardt!
How about a pic of the disassembled beast!?
Here she is. I have to go to work now and I'll be gone for two weeks. Cool thing is, you guys will have this figured out by the time I get back

tahoeacr screwed with this post 01-21-2008 at 11:05 AM
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:35 AM   #41
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Hardly a 1,000 miles on the clock and already exposed for the world to see.... keep up the good work. Hopefully we'll see you on the coast in about 10 days..... from the looks of it though... probably not. Good luck at the races
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:53 AM   #42
Nut Clutch
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The 25 ohm 10 watt resistor I mentioned earlier in this thread did seem to work to trick the computer into thinking that the evap valve was in place. I had the bike running for 5 minutes without throwing the FI light, but removing the resistor while running tripped the light. I haven't permanently fitted the resistor because I didn't want to hack the harness or risk shorting the circuit. I am currently waiting for the appropriate male connector and then I will leave it in place.
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Old 06-21-2007, 12:18 PM   #43
nuts&bald
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my neighbour and riding buddy removed his SAS valve from his superduke
and also had the FI light blinking.So i told him to put a resistor inplace of the
valve.Not the measured 20 ohms though because it will get pretty hot.
i gave him a bunch of resistors to experiment with as i thought the ECU just
checks for broken wiring or defective coils.
It turned out that the first resistor tested(i told him to start with the higher values) is working and its value is 820 ohms!
Now this one will not get hot and save you some power too....
heat production is now only 0,018 Watts!
So not a big hot 20 ohm but a little 820 ohms will do.
i think this value will work for the other valves too.
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:39 PM   #44
Nut Clutch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuts&bald
So not a big hot 20 ohm but a little 820 ohms will do.
i think this value will work for the other valves too.
Thanks for the tip. I put a 15,000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in my 990 and it works like a champ!
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Old 07-01-2007, 10:19 AM   #45
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I'm back and it's past time to get my bike back together. Is the bigger(?) resistors working still?
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