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Old 09-26-2007, 10:04 PM   #76
FastEddy760
Lil' Mexican on a 990s
 
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Sorry for the huge pic on that last post, now the Eagle Day bits, thanks to Steve...
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:13 PM   #77
FastEddy760
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Ok, here are the steps...

There are lots of questions about capping off the vacuum tubes with caps from Dormans Auto parts and what not. I noticed that the tubes off the throttle bodies were "T'd" into the canister, so I took one tube, and ran it to both throttle bodies. In this pic, you can see the tube doing an "S" to each throttle body. Its quality tube, and will fake any inspectors, at a casual glance as it looks stock, sorta, mostly, kinda stock.
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:21 PM   #78
FastEddy760
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Here is a small snafu for me, attach the front screw holding the wires on the throttle body, when the bodies are outside the air box. The back throtthle body is done when the bodies are in the air box. This is the type of thing that you install, notice, and have to back up a few steps when you see what you've done. How do I know?
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:28 PM   #79
FastEddy760
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I tested the resistor in the front plug, the one off the canister side by "installing" the resistor and checking for the FI light to go out. It did. Remove the resistor and the light comes on. That was good enough for me. In a few pics, I will show the solder portion for those that just like to look at pics...
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:34 PM   #80
FastEddy760
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in this pic, you *might* be able to see the resistor out on one side, and the FI light is triggerred. If you look real close, you'll notice the faster blue color also, well, you probably already did.
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:39 PM   #81
FastEddy760
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Here is one of the tabs for the plug from Eagle Day, easy to assemble, just cut the sheath from the end of the wire, insert into the tab and crimp. I also added some solder becasue I like to solder.
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:43 PM   #82
FastEddy760
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The parts for the plug go together quick and easy, insert the tabs until they click, its easy. Then stuff the rubber grommets into the ends as shown, thats not a complete insertion btw.
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:12 PM   #83
FastEddy760
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Okay, now we move to the SASy end of the bike to make a plug for that. This requires a donor plug, so unwrap the tape, and prepare to cut the wires...
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:14 PM   #84
FastEddy760
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...and cut the plug. BTW, its only $44 dollars for a new SAS pump with a good plug. And, I left enough wire to put it all back together if needed.
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:16 PM   #85
FastEddy760
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Save the "kawasaki" sheath for the next steps to keep that real factory look...
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FastEddy760 screwed with this post 09-27-2007 at 12:06 AM
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:20 PM   #86
FastEddy760
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here, i'm about to solder the resistor on the SAS donor plug. Notice the shrink tube in place and ready for action after both ends are soldered to the donor plug...
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:24 PM   #87
FastEddy760
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No adventure would be complete witout a little red body fluid.
That lamp base in top of the pic has a broken ceramic "body"
which I quickly grabbed and then began to leak. Anyway, pity break over...
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:26 PM   #88
FastEddy760
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...here is the completed SAS donor plug, soldered at both ends, making a friendly loop, and the shrink tube in place. I will add more shrink tubing, and the orginal "Kawasaki" sheath for, again, that factory look.
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:30 PM   #89
FastEddy760
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and the SAS donor plug complete and installed with extra shrink tube to finish it off and protect it. There is a bend on the resistor wire itself, and why I installed the thinner shrink tube around the resistor, as to protect it somewhat ...

BTW, thanks to Tom at KTM Twins for the block off plates.
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:36 PM   #90
FastEddy760
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Oddometer: 188
the canister plug with the same treatment and resistor with shrink tube layered and the "other" sheath from the donor SAS plug. That will make more sense if you cut your SAS plug off, as there are two pieces of sheath, one slightly smaller and no "Kawasaki" branding.
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