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Old 06-13-2007, 09:28 PM   #16
Twotaildog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reollc4
Kevin, I'd be glad to hear how you go, I have no problems shorting the 510mm long springs if i have to but it would be easyer if i didn't.

Reon

I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:30 PM   #17
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Yes you can run the 510mm springs. You just need to remove all of the preload spacers except 1 of the thinest ones. I think all of the inverted forks on adventures are 48mm forks. Depending on how much you weigh they might work very well. I would try them out before you go and cut them up.
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Old 06-14-2007, 04:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodog
Yes you can run the 510mm springs. You just need to remove all of the preload spacers except 1 of the thinest ones. I think all of the inverted forks on adventures are 48mm forks. Depending on how much you weigh they might work very well. I would try them out before you go and cut them up.
That's the plan Z
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Old 06-14-2007, 05:49 PM   #19
clintnz
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Munn's online parts listings are an easy way to compare what bits cross over between KTM models - just look for the part numbers. There were a few changes back & forth between 43 & 48mm on the 640A

& All LC4's have a linkage rear suspension.

Cheers
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Old 06-14-2007, 07:30 PM   #20
Twotaildog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz
& All LC4's have a linkage rear suspension.

Cheers
Clint
you're right about that. I was mistaken. Don't know what I was thinking.
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill
Z dog has published the correct shims to use for a revalve upfront and will do our rear shock for resonable money and he can help you with spring selection. He knows the vendors.
http://www.infinitymachineanddesign.com/Contact.htm
Bill or Z Dog, can you help guide me to the published shim info? I poked around the link, but for some reason I couldn't figure out where it was.

Also, what is the approximate turn around time for a shock revalve from Infinity?

Thanks,
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:06 PM   #22
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The turn around is about 1 week for the revalve and oil change. If you need any custom springs or anything else like that it is longer but this could also be planned in for minimum down time.
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Old 06-17-2007, 02:21 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twotaildog
Bill or Z Dog, can you help guide me to the published shim info?
Try here
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Old 06-17-2007, 04:55 PM   #24
Twotaildog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
[Try here[/URL]
Ok, thanks Luke. I'd seen that one. Do you know if those numbers would apply to a 2001 model?

Thanks,
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KTM 640 ADV - Guzzi Centauro - Husky TE510 - other stuff
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twotaildog
Do you know if those numbers would apply to a 2001 model?
If you have 48mm forks (the kind with 43mm springs) then yes- mostly. The stacks are for an '03. I used the same compression and rebound stacks in my '02, but kept the stock midvalve because the new stack wouldn't fit. The '03 fork has a different rebound tap than the '02. I don't know what's in the '01

I can't get a straight answer out of the parts fiche (or my owner's manual) about fork sizes, never mind internals. You'll probably just have to pull it apart and check.
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:34 PM   #26
James Siddall
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You Need springs? I got springs.

Seeing as I do a lot of respringing of 950 Adventures, I have an abundance of 43 x 465mm fork springs in 4.8N/mm. Email if you need some.
superplush@gmail.com

James
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:56 PM   #27
Zerodog
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The midvalve stack works in the 01 and the 02 forks. It is a little different rebound tap than the 03 and up bikes though. You need to add a few shims in to space it up. They are 10mm x 8mm shims. Stack them at the base until you get the proper height to get the float you want.It can also be helpfull to get an 03 midvalve spring. It is a little lighter. Either way you will still get the advantages of the lower float mid valve.
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Old 06-22-2007, 09:02 PM   #28
Twotaildog
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My son the hot shot Ducati mechanic helped me put my forks together the other day. We got to use the fork bench and all the fancy fork tools at the dealership he works at, which sped things up a bit. We had to make a 48 mm seal driver on the lathe which slowed things down a bit. But at least they're together now. And the best part is that I recieved my seat back from Mr. Renazco today, so as soon as I get my forks mounted up I can go for a ride. He sure does nice work, doesn't he.

We were planning to install Z dogs shim stack configuration, but we weren't able to because they didn't have the right shims in their kit. Apparently Ducatis don't use anything bigger than 17mm. Also I couldn't figure out how to make the midvalve stack work on my '01 forks, it looked like I would run out of float if I tried to put that many shims in there. For the record, here is what I found in my forks:

Base Valve:
(6) 24 - 0.1
(2) 22 - 0.1
(2) 20 - 0.1
(2) 18 - 0.1
(1) 16 - 0.1
(1) 14 - 0.1
(1) 11 - 0.1

Mid valve:
(4) 24 - 0.1
float - 1.3

I didn't take the rebound valve apart because I realized at that point that I didn't have the right shims to do the Z Dog stacks, and I didn't know how to set up the mid valve anyway. I reinstalled all the original shims in the original configuration.

I also found that the left fork only had a couple of ounces of oil in it. And the nut on one of the base valves was loose. It was peened but not tightened down, so the shims and piston could just spin loosely.

Here's the skinny on the springs. My original springs were .44's. They were 485 mm long and they were ~33 mm ID and ~43mm OD. The new springs that my KTM dealer got for me from Race Tech are .50 spring rate, and 508 mm long. I'm no expert, but it seemed to me like the longer springs fit the forks better than the original ones, except I had to make a minor modification to the hydraulic stop.

The original springs had no preload with the original stack of spacers, in fact according to my measurements they would have had a couple of mm gap at the end when the forks were fully extended. originally one of the forks had 13mm worth of spacers and the other had 14.5 mm. I installed the new springs with just one 1.5 mm spacer, and I measured the spring preload with the cap screwed to the rod to be 6mm. That seems to me to be about what it should be.

The hydraulic stop, which appears to also be a guide for the inside of the spring, was slightly too large in diameter for the new springs. The ID of the new springs was ~32.6 mm and the OD of the hydraulic stop was ~32.8 mm. I filed about a half a mm off of each of the four ridges on the OD of the hydraulic stop, and everything fit just fine.

The new springs also seemed to fit the caps better. The original springs were large enough on the OD that they wedged inside the recess of the caps, whereas the new springs were slightly smaller OD, so they slide right into the caps.

I haven't mounted the forks yet so I don't have sag numbers, but I hope to get them mounted this weekend. I'll post the numbers if anybody's interested. I'm thinking that the longer springs will have a positive affect on the steering geometry, and even though I didn't change the shim stacks, fixing the dry fork and the loose base valve nut should greatly improve the damping charateristics.

Sorry for the long post, I hope there's something in here that will be helpful to somebody.
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:14 AM   #29
bmwktmbill
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2 tail,
I admit I love suspension threads....
I am in Russia running roads from hell.
Russian guys import Japanese cars on the Zurbino ferry and transport them all over N. Asia on clay roads that are real dusty and full of woops and stutter bumps and potholes after they tear the shit out of them when it rains.
I am running 80 lbs of bags and gear plus two spare tires on the back of my rigged Adventure. I weigh about 160 so you do the math(see the try this link in Luke's post above).

My bike is just sucking and I mean SUCKING up some of the worst shit you can imagine.
Absolutely no issues with the front end with the rates I posted but pay attention to the airspring.
Fork oil height, subtanks(airspring) and a revalve will take you places you can't go with coil springs, I don't care what one you put in there.

In the rear if you don't get Z dog to revalve your shock, I don't think you will be able to turn up the compression damping when you add tires or dial it down when you lighten up, to control bottoming or harshness.
Man, I am using all the suspension and without issue no matter what is going on under me.

You might think your enduro doesn't have the same issues as the Adventure bike and to a point that is true but when you bike is right and totally adjustable, you will fall in love all over again.
It's like lust after marriage with your wife.

My ride is 100% safe and unless you don't value you collar bones(I broke mine 5 times so I am an expert on that), I would pay the cash. It is cheaper than the hospital, lost work or a trip/vacation ending injury.
You gotta revalve, sub-tank and stabilize to have the best.
MX tech will mail you shims in a first class envelope, also they will sell you the magic WP fork oil.
You can make a seal driver out of a piece of slit the long way radiator hose and get a job at 7-11 in your spare time to pay for a revalve.
Better call the Dog.

Da da da, that's yes yes yes in Russian.
bill
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bmwktmbill screwed with this post 06-23-2007 at 08:34 AM
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:51 AM   #30
Twotaildog
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Thanks for the advice Bill. I agree with all that, just don't have time right now to do it, it's not the money, it's just that I'm prepping for a trip and there isn't time. I rode the great divide (including Lava Mtn) on a Tiger with stock suspension, so I think I can get by on my LC4 Adventure as it is for now. This winter I'll be looking to revalve and possibly sub tanks.

Thanks again,
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1964 Triumph TR6 - 50 year ISDT Tribute
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