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Old 08-28-2008, 06:14 PM   #76
LukasM OP
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Now let's finally get to the current status - all the pictures shown so far where from 2007.

In the year that I have ridden the DR I have grown very fond of it. Not a single problem even though I expected some after having messed with it quite a bit. At the same time I also found some shortcomings to the mods I made or things that could simply be made better. Plus I called this the "ultimate" DR build up so I sort of have an obligation to you guys!


The powdercoating has been holding up well so there was no need for a strip-down this time.

Just topless will do fine:



As you can see, I have finally gotten the 17" x 4.25" rim with street rubber I had planned. This along with a 17" x 3.5" front will be my Supermoto set, for travel and offroad I will have a 21"/18" setup.

Since spare DR hubs are a rare breed and new was out of question for cost reasons, I had the idea of fitting a stock KTM LC4-SM wheel. These come with a cush drive, are good quality and also relatively easy to find over here.

I had some custom spacers made by a German Supermoto shop (HE Motorradtechnik):







Then I had to find a solution for the brake disc dilemma mentioned earlier - LC4s use 220mm vs. the DRs 240mm. With the tip from Max Kool I found that a LC8 as well as a LC4 690 disc has the same bolt pattern and is 240mm. Interestingly the BMW F650 also has the same dimensions, and I managed to pick up one of those:





At the same time I also converted to a 520 chain as this is what comes stock on single cylinder KTMs and I didn't want to look for a 525 sprocket with the LC4 bolt pattern.


For now I am using my cousin's old chain off his 520-EXC, a bit long but fine for testing purposes:




I had been warned that the KTM hub is a bit (about 3mm?) wider than the DR one, so I would have problems with chain alignment. For my long distance riding I wanted to machine a sprocket carrier a bit, but when checking the alignment is doesn't seem too bad. We'll see how the chain holds up:





Looks more like 1-2mm to me.... You can also see the quick change sprocket clip.
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Old 08-28-2008, 06:21 PM   #77
LukasM OP
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The recommended tire size for the DR is normally a 140 or 150 rear. I had a new (but old) Pirelli Dragon 160 from my previous LC4 left over, so I tried to make it work.

At first the chain would touch the tire, but after a little persuasion with a belt sander it clears ok. There was plenty of meat on the side of the tire, so no risk of damaging the carcass:




Right side still has room to go, so an offset rim could be a solution for those wanting to run a 160 tire. I might still do that because if I machine the sprocket carrier to align the chain completely straight, it will move the chain even more to the right.




You can also see the rear master cylinder which is vulnerable in stock form is now protected with a TPI guard:

Before:



After
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Old 08-28-2008, 07:57 PM   #78
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Outstanding!!
Keep it come'n!
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Old 08-29-2008, 03:32 AM   #79
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Great Thread man,

Very interesting keep up the good work.
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Old 08-29-2008, 10:53 AM   #80
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That looked like a great week. Nice pictures.
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Old 09-12-2008, 10:56 AM   #81
LukasM OP
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Thanks for the feedback guys, plenty more pictures coming!


As mentioned earlier on wide pegs are much more comfortable for riding while standing, and I found that the DR pegs left a lot to be desired. After lots of reading about Powerpegz, Pivot Pegz etc I still ended up with a set of the proven Fastway Evolution models.

I had Jeff at Procycle order them for me and they were here in a matter of days as usual.





I chose to go with the F5 cleat style which are supposed to give good grip while not tearing up your boots as much. The cleats are screw-in style that can be replaced if desired and come with a nifty stainless tool:





Comparison Fastway vs stock so you can see the size difference:




I also gave the rusty stock pegs mounts a good cleaning with a wire brush on an angle grinder, brings out a nice silver/polished color:




And this is what they look like assembled and clear coated:





I also went to fix my shift lever that had been bent in a crash a long time ago.





Since I didn't want to risk bending the splined shifter shaft, I took it off the bike and put it in a vise.





Big effin pliers to the rescue:





Wire brush treatment:




Did the same to sidestand and brake pedal while I was in there, look better than new!






As you might have noticed in the picture above, the shift lever likes to dig into the stator cover when you fall on it. Mine already had some deep scratches so I was probably lucky that it hadn't poked a whole yet. Perry's aluminum covers to the rescue!

First clean the dirty case and the cover with some degreaser:





Next, apply slilicone in this exact pattern for best adhesion.





Put cover on the bike and use tape to hold it in position until it dries. Should look like this in the end:







And the clutch side:

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Old 09-12-2008, 11:11 AM   #82
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Very nice work!
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Old 09-12-2008, 01:19 PM   #83
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AWSOME THREAD!! LOOKING FORWARD TO THE GRAND FINALE!
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Old 09-24-2008, 10:44 AM   #84
LukasM OP
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Next step: More power!

I am planning to leave the engine internals stock to keep the reliability that I bought the bike for in the first place. Yet I would like to optimize it where possible in regards to throttle response, sound, weight etc. I therefore decided to do some intake (airbox, filter, carb) and exhaust (header, mid-pipe, muffler) mods.


Let’s start with the airbox. Stock, it features a snorkel on top but I removed that a while ago. I have also been using a twin-air filter as these are supposed to do a good job cleaning yet be very free-flowing.


In this picture you can see that quite a bit of dust collects under the restrictive opening:





I wanted to be able still cross deep waters, so just taking the airbox side cover off was out. Luckily Jesse Kientz has a good picture on his site on how to cut the top to make the opening larger. I printed it out and used it as a template for my cut.





The Dremel did not work as well as expected, so I just did a rough cut with it.





Finished after some clean-up with a file:





I had also been putting together the parts necessary to use a Keihin 39mm FCR-MX flat-slide carb off a Yamaha YFZ450 quad. This had been well documented by our buddy Mx-Rob on Thumpertalk, check out his great website with full instructions on how to do it. http://home.comcast.net/~rshafer9/FCR_Install.htm Thanks Rob!!! Everybody who put one on was thrilled with the results. No surging, More power, great throttle response and fuel mileage similar a Dynojetted stock carb.



This is what it looks like (on the left) next to the BST40. You can also see that I twisted the fuel inlet on the stocker so I could use all the fuel in my IMS tank.





Since the inlet mod had worked well previously, I wanted to do the same on the FCR. The inlet pipes are a press fit, so they can kink if you try to just twist them with some pliers (happened to me on the Mikuni but it still flowed enough). So this time I decided to do it properly and tightened the inlet down in a vise.





And this was the result. Fuck!

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Old 09-24-2008, 11:17 AM   #85
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Of course just twisting it back didn’t work, in fact it broke the inlet of completely….





I tried my luck with a newly bought el-Cheapo bolt extractor set. To my surprise, it worked really well. Now I just had to find a replacement for the inlet pipe…





The YFZ-specific FCR uses a rubber intake bell, so it has to be adapted to fit on the DR air boot. Luckily the above mentioned Rob hooked me up with a machined aluminum sleeve. It doesn’t fit straight on though, as there are some ridges to hold the stock intake bell.





I ground them down with a grinding stone on the Dremel, careful not to take off too much and trial fitting every minute. When I was able to press it on with some force, I used a sealant and installed it for good (no picture).





The YFZ also uses only one cable for the thumb throttle, so the casting for the second one is closed off (as seen in upper right corner).





I followed MX-Robs instructions to the T: Drilled out the hole, tapped it for the cable adjuster (M6 IIRC), and cut a slot to fit the cable. Luckily the cam already has a second hole, so no more modifications are needed here:





Rob also had his bike on the dyno with several different configurations to find the best jetting. Now Jeff from Procycle offers a kit that includes all the jets, needles, a better AP-spring and a fuel adjustment screw. One stop shopping sure is better than tinkering around with the carb yourself, have to buy parts from several sources etc.





I first installed the Merge Racing AP spring which comes with good instructions so I didn’t take too many pics. The stocker is too weak for best performance, so there are various options from using O-rings, stronger spring and finally, tying it together with safety wire. I found that the previous owner of my carb had done just that, but since it can apparently cause binding decided to remove it.





Here you can see the stock spring next to the stronger AP spring.





Then I replaced the fuel screw so it can easily be adjusted from the outside, even while on the bike.





I also hadn’t been able to find any pipe that would work for the fuel inlet., so I searched my house for something useable. I ended up with the housing of a ball-point pen as a temporary fix. Had to press it in and it stayed put (no leaks since!). Also wire-brushed the whole carb with my Dremel since it was heavily corroded. All jets installed and ready to be put on the bike minus the TPS sensor assembly:

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Old 09-24-2008, 02:01 PM   #86
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A mod I'll eventually do

Good on'ya.
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Old 09-24-2008, 10:41 PM   #87
Frank Warner
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From your earlier fix of the gear shift shaft ..

Take two gear shift leavers .. drill some holes (say 7mm diameter) along the length of the leaver - this weakes it so it won't bend the shift shaft, but the shift leaver will bend (and break if taken too far .. still better than damaging the shaft). Put one on the gear saft for use .. clamp the other one to the rear brake master cyclinder protection TPI guard you installed (as a spare shift leaver).
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Old 09-25-2008, 01:53 AM   #88
LukasM OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner
From your earlier fix of the gear shift shaft ..

Take two gear shift leavers .. drill some holes (say 7mm diameter) along the length of the leaver - this weakes it so it won't bend the shift shaft, but the shift leaver will bend (and break if taken too far .. still better than damaging the shaft). Put one on the gear saft for use .. clamp the other one to the rear brake master cyclinder protection TPI guard you installed (as a spare shift leaver).
Definitely a good idea Frank.

I did something similar on my previous LC4, where I drilled a hole close to the tip where it could break, and tapped one for a bolt closer to the pivot point. This way you can sometimes re-use the same shift lever with a bolt threaded in as a "shorty".

Next time I am close to a drill (right now I have to do all my work on the sidewalk and only have basic hand tools) I will definitely do that.
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:59 AM   #89
cmg
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top work Lukass



ummmmmmmm update?
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Old 11-08-2008, 03:46 AM   #90
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Hi Lukas
Really nice work with your DR, I hope you post some new pictures once the bike is put together again. Let us see the result.

Most of the posts are from people in the US or Australia, but you show that the activity is high also in Europe. I have the same bike as you, but without most of the extras :-(

/nick
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