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Old 04-01-2008, 11:38 AM   #706
Zombie_Stomp OP
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Now I've got a question for all you experienced Honda Part orderers. When there are 3 different part numbers listed for the same part in the diagram, say, for clutch cable, for example, it is number 6 in the diagram. Below there are 3 lines, all albeled clutch lever, all labeled to correspond with #6, but each has a different part number, and two of them have a black arrow, parts 22870-mg2-000 and 22870-mg3-000 have arrows, and 22870-mg3-405 does not. Which one should I use? What do the black arrows mean?
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Old 04-01-2008, 02:31 PM   #707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp
Now I've got a question for all you experienced Honda Part orderers. When there are 3 different part numbers listed for the same part in the diagram, say, for clutch cable, for example, it is number 6 in the diagram. Below there are 3 lines, all albeled clutch lever, all labeled to correspond with #6, but each has a different part number, and two of them have a black arrow, parts 22870-mg2-000 and 22870-mg3-000 have arrows, and 22870-mg3-405 does not. Which one should I use? What do the black arrows mean?
Well, sometimes there are multiple part numbers per illustrated part for the CAlifornia specific models...but doubt that explains why the clutch cable is listed as so. The microfiche housed at BikeBandit seems to just indicate one serial, tho...59698-001. (tho if I recall correctly from earlier in this thread, BikeBandit was not a highly regarded distributer of OEM parts...)
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Old 04-01-2008, 02:59 PM   #708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fully_geed
Well, sometimes there are multiple part numbers per illustrated part for the CAlifornia specific models...but doubt that explains why the clutch cable is listed as so. The microfiche housed at BikeBandit seems to just indicate one serial, tho...59698-001. (tho if I recall correctly from earlier in this thread, BikeBandit was not a highly regarded distributer of OEM parts...)
I don't think their part numbers are OEM part numbers.
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:19 PM   #709
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-No they are not highly regarded OEM parts distributors. Not by me and my experiences that exposed some major flaws like not having a number to call and talk to a real person.
-Their part numbers are their own that they assign. Use the parts fische in the Babbit's online oem parts ordering section. They have the oem part numbers listed. Then you can use those to order from Zanotti's, which is actually cheaper, despite Babbit's claim that they ave the lowest guaranteed prices anywhere. So many of the prices are higher than Zanotti's that it would just be too darn much trouble to ask them to beat Zanottis. It would just take up enough of my time that it would not be worth the time of doing it anymore. I do get paid to work by the hour, so I figure it like that. Taking the time to write about it here, though, that's all pleasure .
My theory is that it costs money to have the Honda parts fische on your website, and that the sites with it offset this cost to varying degrees, with higher prices. If that's the case, thanks, Babbit's, for those precious part numbers! Shhhh....
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:48 PM   #710
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In just over 4 hours today I tore down the bike, replaced the motor, cleaned the carbs, flushed the oil, lubed the cables, cleaned the throttle, adjusted the brakes and inflated the tires. The replacement motor starts easy and runs well. I can't wait for the morning so I can go ripping around.



And I'll be damned if the thing doesn't look good to boot!

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Old 04-01-2008, 11:54 PM   #711
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Wow, you're a good mechanic! Paint those exhaust pipes and find a right side panel! Tags! title! license!
c'mon, I know you wanna sell me that rebuildable spare engine!
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

I do heavy-duty textile repair, upholstery, and design/manufacture bags.
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Old 04-02-2008, 12:42 AM   #712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp
Now I've got a question for all you experienced Honda Part orderers. When there are 3 different part numbers listed for the same part in the diagram, say, for clutch cable, for example, it is number 6 in the diagram. Below there are 3 lines, all albeled clutch lever, all labeled to correspond with #6, but each has a different part number, and two of them have a black arrow, parts 22870-mg2-000 and 22870-mg3-000 have arrows, and 22870-mg3-405 does not. Which one should I use? What do the black arrows mean?
I believe the multiple parts numbers refer to different suppliers or slight variations on the same part. The earlier numbers are left there for reference but are no longer available. From what I understand, when they find a cheaper source or are forced to get a part from another manufacturer because the original manufacturer no longer makes it, then they issue a new part number for the same part made by a different manufacturer or supplier. Or if they have a slight design change in a part they will also issue a new part number for the redesigned part, while the older version is no longer available. I think the parts numbers are also left there because of some warehouses and stores may have old parts on their shelves, so they need to be able to cross reference the numbers.
Whatever the case is, the newer parts are supposed to be interchangable or directly substitutable for the older ones, so if you have 2 or three part numbers for the same part, any of these numbers will work if you can find them, but if you order from Honda, you will likely (but not always) get the newest one.
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Old 04-02-2008, 02:45 AM   #713
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Well, it's 2.30am here in sunny southern California and I just finished reading this thread! ZombieStomp, you are a special person, I applaud your efforts, patience and goodwill, my hat is off to you and the AdvRider family. I am now 58 years young and still flinging spanners and hammers! Like you all, I have about as much fun working on the bikes as I do riding them. Isn't it nice to ride a bike you 'KNOW'? I love to work on my bikes and clean my bikes and know every inch of them. Some folks take them in the shop and I understand that, but a few of us just like to 'know' our bikes. Whatever you learn by doing all this work will never go unrewarded, you have/will benefit from it greatly, and you understand that, or you wouldn't do it. Patience IS a virtue, and ZS you have shown PLENTY, and learned/taught some, well done! I am so happy to have stumbled upon this thread in my surfing through AdvRider, I started at 10pm with an idea to have an hour or so then go to bed. Well, you know how it goes, just like working on the bikes, time stands still and the clock just doesn't matter. I did have half a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon and half a bag of dry salted peanuts to fortify me, and thoroughly enjoyed myself, thankyou, thankyou, thankyou.
james
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:21 AM   #714
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Mine just about done, pics coming soon.
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:41 AM   #715
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Joel trying to get in a pic of my 2XL

I have been trying to get a picture down sized to attach I might have the attachment here a pic of what I lovingly call the twins 83 black seat, 85 blue seat. Blue is gettig the new seat cover. Both Registered,tagged and on road.The 85 is fixed and running, I think it may have had a stuck float when it was running bad, cured with different carbs. The supertrap disc's were all carboned up and a wire wheel will finish that up. I may have to add a couple disc's to get the extra out flow, and it will eventually need the valve seals for the cold start smoke. I sent you And Gregster a pm with a local bike lead Good luck if you're interested.
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Old 04-02-2008, 07:43 AM   #716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS
Well, it's 2.30am here in sunny southern California and I just finished reading this thread! ZombieStomp, you are a special person, I applaud your efforts, patience and goodwill, my hat is off to you and the AdvRider family. I am now 58 years young and still flinging spanners and hammers! Like you all, I have about as much fun working on the bikes as I do riding them. Isn't it nice to ride a bike you 'KNOW'? I love to work on my bikes and clean my bikes and know every inch of them. Some folks take them in the shop and I understand that, but a few of us just like to 'know' our bikes. Whatever you learn by doing all this work will never go unrewarded, you have/will benefit from it greatly, and you understand that, or you wouldn't do it. Patience IS a virtue, and ZS you have shown PLENTY, and learned/taught some, well done! I am so happy to have stumbled upon this thread in my surfing through AdvRider, I started at 10pm with an idea to have an hour or so then go to bed. Well, you know how it goes, just like working on the bikes, time stands still and the clock just doesn't matter. I did have half a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon and half a bag of dry salted peanuts to fortify me, and thoroughly enjoyed myself, thankyou, thankyou, thankyou.
james
Thank you! I'm touched. I wrote everything in this thread with that same labor of love we use to work on the bikes. I was thinking about that phrase the other night, and I decided that it's something that one keeps working on even though it wouldn't be ordinarily "worth the time". Like how I don't feel like going and telling Babbit's that their prices on OEM arts are not the lowest and try to get them to lower the price in accordance with their guarantee, I can instead order from Zanottis who is physically closer (PA) and will get here faster anyhow. Not worth it, just choose the path of least resistance. But once you get a knack for working on bikes, you start to enjoy it, and even though it still is kind of a pain in the ass doing it sometimes, the end result is indescribable. You know the feeling. And another thing, sometimes the number of mistakes you make makes it not worth the time of fixing on paper. For example, I've had my engine out twice and probably spent 2 grand in parts. I still kind of overtorqued the head by about 10 ft lbs since I left the head bolt threads oily when they shoulda been clean, so it lubricated the threads while I was tightening making it feel like they weren't tight at all. Needs metal to metal friction to stay tight and get a good accurate torque. (thanks for the talk, Uncle Randy!) So now I got a couple little incidents of head gasket blow-by, and it will have to come out again. Besides, it has a rocker box oil leak at the front. So you see, I'm spending more than it would cost to go to the shop, but I'm learning all these things about how things can go wrong, and making installments on patience. Oh, and, if you haven't read ERE109's threads or Gregster's threads, ask me and I'll link you. Greg's is especially long and thorough, and the main inspiraton to do a big long photo-heavy post on the whole thing. He showed me what was possible.
Thanks again for the compliments.
Joel
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:01 PM   #717
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Ricky Stator wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by ere109
Greg,
Do you have a Ricky Stator? I got my bike running last night, but am having trouble figuring out which wires to hook up on the RS. Here's the basic problem. Any and all help will be appreciated.

Ethan

... some help with my stator. The bike has a Ricky Stator stator system. Unfortunately, the previous owner cut the wires. I hooked them together the way I "think" they should go. The neutral light comes on, but when I rev the bike everything goes from dim to nearly dark. The RS has six wires, two white, two green grounds, one green neutral, and the black/red. My question: how do these hook up into the wiring harness? The method I tried tonight obviously didn't work, so I'll try it another way tomorrow. Pictures would be much appreciated.
I can't remember exactly how this plugs in, but here's a picture of my Ricky Stator which shows the correct plug / wire configuration. If you still have the 4 wire male plug on your wiring harness, you might be able to look at this picture and fugure out how it goes. I am going to be doing a helicoil job an one of my valve cover bolts after my last exam and will have the tank and seat off then, so I will be able to take more detailed pictures of the wiring harness then.



This picture shows where the 4-pin plug is located on the frame just behind the coil - it is in the top right of the picture. There is a short green/red stripe wire coming from the stator which exits the main bunch of wires at the gromet. This wire is for the neutral switch on the engine down by the countershaft, as you may have already figured out. The other end of this wire goes into the 4-pin connector and you can see it going into the 4-pin connector in the above picture.
There is another single green wire and a single black/red stripe wire that come out of the main bunch of wires with the 4-pin connector wires. This green wire gets connected to the bolt on the coil as you can see in the picture below, with it's ring tip bolted to the ignition coil right in front of the 4-pin plug on the frame.
The black/red stripe wire should be a no-brainer.
So that leaves the remaining 3 wires that go into the 4-pin plug. I can't be of any more help with those at the moment, but can have a closer look in a few weeks.



OK, I found a crappy pic that sort of shows the bike wiring harness wires that plug into the Ricky Stator 4-pin plug. Sorry the pic isn't any better, but it's the only one I could find at the moment. You can see a pink (I think) and a lime green or white (I honestly can't remember), that plug into the green and green/red stripe wires in the 4-pin plug. I think the lime green or white one plugs into the green/red stripe wire for the neutral switch.
Hope this helps.


Gregster screwed with this post 04-03-2008 at 01:04 PM
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:06 PM   #718
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I ended up sending him the corresponding colors from the plugs, so I got that covered (via e-mail), but it still won't light his headlight, and I think he said he traced it down to somewhere between the headlight and the voltage regulator. There's some metering and schematic checking to be done for sure
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
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I do heavy-duty textile repair, upholstery, and design/manufacture bags.

Zombie_Stomp screwed with this post 04-02-2008 at 06:15 PM
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:29 PM   #719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp
Wow, you're a good mechanic! Paint those exhaust pipes and find a right side panel! Tags! title! license!
c'mon, I know you wanna sell me that rebuildable spare engine!
I've rebuilt lots of bikes and can generally crank them out pretty fast. Minimize work time, maximize ride time!

Here's a vid . . . . . The hissing sound is the open carbs... I need to put the boots back on.

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Old 04-14-2008, 12:38 PM   #720
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Ride Report

So I finally got my XR600 out for a good shakedown run. It still needs a few things but is reasonably ready for some good riding. I put 80 miles on it last night of mixed riding; highway and back roads. It is quite comfortable on the street. On the highway it cruises comfortably around 65. It'll certainly do 70-75 without much trouble, but it's much smoother in the slow lane.

I just spent 4-5 hours on it tearing up the trails in the mountains of New Hampshire. The mountains are NASTY right now.... snow, ice, mud, slop, rocks and garbage. . . . . I dumped in countless times, got stuck twice as many. I got marooned out in a giant water crossing. The water was up to my knees and the bike was sunk way down in the mud. Took all my energy to fight that bike free and get it out of there. I summited a couple peaks for some awesome views... hit a couple dead ends. . . . ended up on a couple trails that were just impassible by the XR. The front end skates everywhere because the tire is far too road biased... and the front suspension is much much much too soft. It's reasonable for putting, but as soon as you push it, it pushes right back. Threw me off a couple times. . . . .I will say though, the motor is excellent. It's ability to just point go is incredible. The bike is nearly uncontrollable due to tires and suspension over deep rock washes and thick mud.... but the motor just goes and goes and goes. It's extremely tractable at low RPM in every gear. And the torque is there to just launch the front wheel up and over everything. I was hopping 18" logs with ease because of the grunt of this bike. On my KTM I'd be feathering the clutch to hurdle those same obstacles. . . . . . The KTM however would dominate this bike up and down everything without question. There were a few extremely steep (near vertical) sections with loose gravel and mud that I really wanted to attempt, but the XR just isn't the bike for that. The KTM would have been feasible in those areas.

Anyway. Fun day. I was drenched in water and mud from head to foot. I initially was sad I didn't bring a camera, but I'm quite sure I would have both drowned it and smashed it.

Bottom line - even though its old, its still a quite capable bike. The gnarly stuff is tough, but the motor doesn't skip a beat. (Remember, I have the 600R motor in my bike!).
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