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Old 04-29-2008, 09:18 AM   #736
Reposado1800
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There was a guy on the XL600 yahoo groups who was waaay hardcore over the XL600. He got over 100,000 miles on his before calling it quits.
The overall design is very hardy. Given it has a good stator and doesn't run out of oil these things will run nearly forever. They just begin to clatter and smoke worse and worse as time goes by.
Most die from neglect not overuse.
I am going to be loaning my XL600 to a friend who is going to ride it all over America after June 1st. 53mpg should do him ok. Heres hoping it runs just as good when he's done the trip!
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:21 AM   #737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdnakx250
There was a guy on the XL600 yahoo groups who was waaay hardcore over the XL600. He got over 100,000 miles on his before calling it quits.
The overall design is very hardy. Given it has a good stator and doesn't run out of oil these things will run nearly forever. They just begin to clatter and smoke worse and worse as time goes by.
Most die from neglect not overuse.
I am going to be loaning my XL600 to a friend who is going to ride it all over America after June 1st. 53mpg should do him ok. Heres hoping it runs just as good when he's done the trip!
Heat will kill it - it did my XRL. Heat caused it to drop a valve seat - still got me home though banging and clanking like nobody's business. Just make sure you don't overheat the bike.
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:39 AM   #738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264
Heat will kill it - it did my XRL. Heat caused it to drop a valve seat - still got me home though banging and clanking like nobody's business. Just make sure you don't overheat the bike.
Yeah- I was hoping to find someone who knew where I could find some sort of temp gauge made for air cooled engines so I could tell if it was getting a bit too hot and slow down or stop for a while. I will especially need to know this when going through New Mexico and Arizona in the middle of July. My engine came with a dropped valve seat as well. I'm getting a sound when fully warmed up at idle coming from the clutch area sounding like a piece of metal floating around or something- kind of a light tapping, floating clunking around. Not tappets, I know that sound. I remember that my clutch pushrod, which is aluminum with steel ends, had one end tip that was loose from the aluminum rod, and I used it because the replacement was ridiculously expensive. But I think it goes away with the clutch applied.
I've got a rebuildable spare coming from KTA, (adv'er) so I may just do a full rebuild excepting my current rebuilt head on my engine.

New top speed- very close to 100! I dared not look at the speedo very long though- it felt like I was hovering on the road on a layer of air, vibrating on the verge of spontaneous explosion, so I didn't hold it very long. In order to make higher speeds smoother, I will need:
-wheels trued
-wheels balanced with Dynabeads in the tubes
-new tires
-windshield
-wheel aligned in a straight(er) line
-fully rebuilt engine will have less vibration
-taller gearing will have less vibration due to lowered rpms of engine
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:26 AM   #739
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Joel - I have the XRs only dipstick thermometer and it seems to work well. Obviously it's not a scientific instrument but it will at least give you an indication of the temp of your oil. I have found that if my temp gets above 250, time to either stop and let it cool down or (and I think this may be better - love to hear what other people think ) just slow down to allow the engine to cool down.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:35 AM   #740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264
Joel - I have the XRs only dipstick thermometer and it seems to work well. Obviously it's not a scientific instrument but it will at least give you an indication of the temp of your oil. I have found that if my temp gets above 250, time to either stop and let it cool down or (and I think this may be better - love to hear what other people think ) just slow down to allow the engine to cool down.
Great- thanks for the tip on the thermometer. I'm reading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintinance, and when he's narrating the ride they're taking, he slows down to let it cool- I think that makes more sense to me than stopping, because air is still circulating, granted, not as fast, but the explosions are getting smaller, creating less heat. I think at a point the speed of air circulation reaches a plateau in terms of cooling ability because it is so turbulent. I'd like to hear some real physics on that, though, especially in terms of the limitations of the way the fins on the cylinder and head are shaped. Speaking of which, XRSonly also welds additional fin extensions on the head if you send it in- I will get these if I can afford it before I leave.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:50 AM   #741
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp
Great- thanks for the tip on the thermometer. I'm reading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintinance, and when he's narrating the ride they're taking, he slows down to let it cool- I think that makes more sense to me than stopping, because air is still circulating, granted, not as fast, but the explosions are getting smaller, creating less heat. I think at a point the speed of air circulation reaches a plateau in terms of cooling ability because it is so turbulent. I'd like to hear some real physics on that, though, especially in terms of the limitations of the way the fins on the cylinder and head are shaped. Speaking of which, XRSonly also welds additional fin extensions on the head if you send it in- I will get these if I can afford it before I leave.
Thanks Joel - I figured slowing down is prob the best bet. Mine went bang on a very hot day in the woods....live and learn. I will say I still managed to get out of the woods and as you know, re-built the top-end pretty much and it's been (touch wood) nearly 2K miles since the re-build.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:51 AM   #742
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It costs $300. I just called and asked them.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:57 AM   #743
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp
It costs $300. I just called and asked them.
Oh boy...that 'aint cheap (kinda ugly too)

I am not sure it's really needed - bearing in mind I dont ride/live in a hot state.

One thing that really helped me was going back to stock gearing - it runs much cooler as the revs are much lower it seems.

Before spending that much on the fins, I would go for an oil cooler.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:02 AM   #744
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Regarding heat, the danger zone is going to be stuck in a traffic jam not necessarily going down the freeway. The motor gets real hot real quick just sitting. Best to kill the motor and push if there is no way out of the jam. I have seen a BMW GS rider do this.
Most Harley guys that have fried their motors have been ones stuck in traffic.
If you have anything close to stock gearing 5th works like an overdrive keeping the cruising revs way down.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:07 AM   #745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdnakx250
Regarding heat, the danger zone is going to be stuck in a traffic jam not necessarily going down the freeway. The motor gets real hot real quick just sitting. Best to kill the motor and push if there is no way out of the jam. I have seen a BMW GS rider do this.
Most Harley guys that have fried their motors have been ones stuck in traffic.
I think if you can ride slower then that't the way to go but I agree, if it's not possible then turning it off and letting it cool down is the best option.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:42 PM   #746
bronevaya
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anyone know where I can get a clutch lever (not just the handle) assembly??
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:59 PM   #747
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Originally Posted by bronevaya
anyone know where I can get a clutch lever (not just the handle) assembly??
All the parts you want can still be obtained from Honda.
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Old 04-29-2008, 02:17 PM   #748
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let me rephrase my question, is there a cheap alternative? what other levers will work? I was hoping to find something used on ebay
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Old 04-29-2008, 02:57 PM   #749
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Originally Posted by bronevaya
let me rephrase my question, is there a cheap alternative? what other levers will work? I was hoping to find something used on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-Ho...spagenameZWD1V

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-...spagenameZWD1V

Most levers from the same era XL350r and XR600R will work.
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Old 04-29-2008, 03:01 PM   #750
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I reckon anything around 600cc is going to be using the same size cable (or a cable at all instead of a hydraulic clutch) and therefore would work. You'd probably want to find one with a straight lever with a similar "rake" to it. That's all I've got.
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