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Old 06-16-2010, 09:36 PM   #31
bananaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside
Some mythology: Rich mixture 'limp-home' mode.
65 mph maximum speed. Link here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=573731.

It happened to me just a little while ago. After tons of head-scratching, it turned out that the problem was the O2 sensor. $66 and easy to install.

My bike was surely in "limp-home" mode. Full rich mixture.
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:20 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bananaman
65 mph maximum speed. Link here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=573731.

It happened to me just a little while ago. After tons of head-scratching, it turned out that the problem was the O2 sensor. $66 and easy to install.

My bike was surely in "limp-home" mode. Full rich mixture.
Was it confirmed by majority vote or something That's a false concept, BM. Glad you got your summer problem worked out!


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Old 06-17-2010, 02:36 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffster
I stumbled around with this, eventually removing the plastic brackets from the bottom of the cylinder heads to figure it out. Then I realized that the connector assemblies just slip out of the brackets, allowing you to use a screwdriver to get under the tabs that hold the connectors together.

If this isn't clear -- and I'm certainly not describing it the best possible way -- just fiddle around with the connectors on the brackets until you figure it out.

...

I just went out to the bike and slipped the connector off the bottom of the right cylinder and slipped it back on. It's so easy this caveman can do it.
This makes sense...
I will play with it a little more. Not sure what the others are saying about using a hammer and harness under the tank. That must be on the 1150's.
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Old 06-17-2010, 02:57 AM   #34
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before you all confuse yourselves, look at the thread start date.
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Old 06-17-2010, 02:59 AM   #35
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before you all confuse yourselves, look at the thread start date.
Yeah I know, I just used this thread rather than starting another. It had the right title. Thanks.
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:06 PM   #36
bananaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside

Was it confirmed by majority vote or something That's a false concept, BM. Glad you got your summer problem worked out!

Ultimately the dealer's diagnosis was correct. My R1100GS wouldn't go better than 65, and often would only go 55. Dealer said it was the O2 sensor. I replaced the O2 sensor, and the bike's performance returned.

Sure looks like the full-rich default mode is "Limp Home."
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:33 PM   #37
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I understand Everyone voted or believes something, so it must be true. Glad you got your summer problem worked out!


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Old 06-18-2010, 06:59 PM   #38
bananaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside
I understand Everyone voted or believes something, so it must be true. Glad you got your summer problem worked out!

I don't understand your logic. If the bike ran like crap, and then the problem was fixed, how was the repair not responsible for the repair?

And if the bike limped home, 250 miles in 5 hours running at maximum speed, what else would you call it, other than "limp home" mode?
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Old 06-18-2010, 07:15 PM   #39
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You don't understand your logic. Hey, it was a fun summertime 'I've got a problem' thread. All's well that ends well!


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Old 06-18-2010, 08:58 PM   #40
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Well kewl.

Poolside used some smilies to add an extra layer of insight into what he really means.
Sorta kinda…
Because I'm not really sure what he means but I can tell he really means it.

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Old 06-18-2010, 09:07 PM   #41
bananaman
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If a year ago you guys had told me that in The Spring Of '10 I'd be obsessed with O2 sensors, Dutch fault-code tables, and phantom vacuum leaks manifesting as mythological limp-home modes programed by clairvoyant German engineers...
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Old 06-18-2010, 09:23 PM   #42
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I feel ya brother! Welcome to my world. It's often difficult in knowing exactly what happened and when. Or if not exactly, at least knowing what is possible and/or probable.


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Old 06-19-2010, 12:19 PM   #43
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Bananaman, any U-Toob before and after videos on the perceived performance increase from replacing the lambda sensor?
We want to believe but...

A fault in the TPS, but not the lambda sensor can trigger limp home mode. I write from from personal experience with a damaged TPS on an r1100 w/mo 2.2. A sampling of incidents and ecu theory reported in various forums worldwide also suggests that it is unlikely that a bad lambda sensor would limit your engine rpm or top speed. The fact that you are now able to reach redline (are you?) after simply replacing the lambda sensor is coincidental. Perhaps you had a plugged tank vent that cleared itself or a mouse nest in the airbox that finally got sucked past the valves? What was the max rpm before the lambda change and how many rpms do you perceive to have gained by replacing the lambda sensor?

For benefit of the less technical here, there are certain things we ought to suspect first when a single spark oilhead experiences loss of power. We know enough about the operation of motronic 2.2, as well as the non-ecu issues that we can now quickly resolve common r11xx performance problems without buying unnecessary parts or labor. Faulty lambda sensors do not cause sudden, dramatic loss of engine power. At best they cause declining fuel economy for those riders that spend a lot of time cruising at steady state.

Non cat bikes masquerading as cat-equipped bikes:
One inmate queries from Mexico and another from Oz: "Why do I have a cat but no o2/lambda?"

A; NO, you do not have the cataclysmic avertor device on your R1100GS. You have a factory collector/pre-muffler that LOOKS like a cat, but is not a cat. It is an empty can, perhaps with baffles but not with rare earth metal catalyst. Should you buy a lambda sensor? Perhaps you are concerned about the plight of drowning polar bears. If that is the case, by all means, order a complete oem U.S. spec exhaust for your non-U.S., non-cat 1100. Hey, I'll trade you mine and throw in a brand new lambda sensor! Please re-cycle your CO-pot and old oem non-cat exhaust by sending it to me. I promise to keep it out of the landfill.
Lambda sensors are required to prevent damage to the cat. No cat> no lambda sensor required.

Limp Home re-visited:
To understand what limp home mode feels like, simply unplug your TPS. Compare that to a disconnected o2 sensor.

vintagerider screwed with this post 06-19-2010 at 02:31 PM
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Old 06-19-2010, 04:41 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagerider
A fault in the TPS, but not the lambda sensor can trigger limp home mode. I write from from personal experience with a damaged TPS on an r1100 w/mo 2.2. Also true for R1150 and R1200 oilheads w/Motronic 2.4. For most intents and purposes the 2.2 and 2.4 Motronic units are identical. I mean, the significant differences are the 2.2 is sometimes fitted with a CO potentiometer, the ignition output on the R1200 oilhead drives a coil-on-plug, and the additional ignition outputs for the R1150 dual-spark head.

Non cat bikes masquerading as cat-equipped bikes:
One inmate queries from Mexico and another from Oz:
Q: Why do I have a cat but no o2/lambda?
A: Lambda sensors are required to prevent damage to the cat. No cat> no lambda sensor required.
That's another myth. The lambda (O2) sensor is never required, even with a catalyst. Before Electronic Fuel Injection was widely adopted, carburetted vehicles had catalysts fitted without O2 sensors.

Limp Home re-visited:
To understand what limp home mode feels like, simply unplug your TPS. Compare that to a disconnected o2 sensor.
That'd be a good test for your bike bm. It will not hurt anything. Nothing needs to be reset afterward. You can unplug and/or replug the TPS while you are riding along if you like.


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Old 06-19-2010, 07:01 PM   #45
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Uh just to clarify…

Turn OFF the bike then plug or unplug a sensor. But not while the engine is running…

This has been a public service announcement courtesy of the ADV technical department…

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