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Old 09-26-2014, 06:29 PM   #3241
Wallowa
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Wow..

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjfields_228 View Post
I just got back last weekend from a 6000 mile Coast-to-Coast trip on my 2012 GSA and I am very thankful that this issue did not crop up while I was in BFE.

Today after work today I washed the filthy beast and then was heading out for a ride. Leaving my neighborhood she dies. I thought it might be my side stand switch but I looked at the display and saw "EWS!!" and the accompanying exclamation triangle flag.

Pushed it home, connected my GS911 and it is throwing up a 10444 fault.

I tried my other key as well and no joy.

I am betting its a bad antenna ring unless someone here knows of another failure mode that would manifest/present itself in this manner.

I am planning on replacing the failed fucker in the morning but not being mechanically inclined as I wish to be I am wondering if any of you super smart mechanically inclined folks here have come up with a better method to remove the security screws other than drilling them out. Please help! Access is horrible and I have big fat sausage hands/fingers!!!

Many many MANY thanks for any advice.

Looks like shit under there I know! But I am not sure everyone's model year uses the same style security screws so I am including this picture of mine!

My understanding is that once the bike starts the antenna ring is no longer in the loop; it only "has a say" when it sends the registered code to the ECU that then OKs the start-up....after that the ring is a non-player. It doesn't "revoke" permission to run.

This is going to sound stupid...but did you check the battery connections and battery charge level? I see a lot of corrosion in your photo [actually a shocking amount...road salt?] and "EWS" is also a code for bad battery..

No idea what the "10444" code denotes...what does that mean?

Good luck...Phil
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Old 09-26-2014, 06:54 PM   #3242
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What Phil said. An EWS will stop your bike from starting, it will not kill a running bike. 10444 translates to " Fuse activated for component block 3 starter relay, (EWS) ring aerial, ignition coils, injectors" according to my google-fu. Check that you don't have some worn wire insulation on wires for those components that is shorting where it shouldn't.

I'd suspect starter relay or wiring before the EWS.
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:04 PM   #3243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallowa View Post
My understanding is that once the bike starts the antenna ring is no longer in the loop; it only "has a say" when it sends the registered code to the ECU that then OKs the start-up....after that the ring is a non-player. It doesn't "revoke" permission to run.

This is going to sound stupid...but did you check the battery connections and battery charge level? I see a lot of corrosion in your photo [actually a shocking amount...road salt?] and "EWS" is also a code for bad battery..

No idea what the "10444" code denotes...what does that mean?

Good luck...Phil
Battery is snug and fully charged.

As for the terrarium going on under my triple tree yoke on the struts for the Telelever shock...... this is the first I have had my nose up in there. I think most of that will scrub off, I least I hope I live in Florida so road salt should be the culprit but high humidity and continuous riding in all other road conditions might. Now I have yet another thing to deal with!

GS911 Reads: Maybe I am dealing with more than simply a bad ring?
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:11 PM   #3244
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But to answer one of your questions, those "one way" bolts for your ign switch get drilled and easy outed. I did plenty at the Dealer.
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:24 PM   #3245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marchyman View Post
What Phil said. An EWS will stop your bike from starting, it will not kill a running bike. 10444 translates to " Fuse activated for component block 3 starter relay, (EWS) ring aerial, ignition coils, injectors" according to my google-fu. Check that you don't have some worn wire insulation on wires for those components that is shorting where it shouldn't.

I'd suspect starter relay or wiring before the EWS.
Thanks marchyman. I am in agreement that more trouble shooting is required before simply R & Ring the EWS ring. I know where the ignition coils wires and injector harness are but do not have a clue where to trace out the starter relay wire run. Any guidance on its location would be greatly appreciated
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:59 PM   #3246
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The starter relay is buried deep.

Remove tank. Open the clips and flip up the cover to the control unit. Remove the control unit. There's the starter relay.

Name:  relay.jpg
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I've never been that deep into a camhead GSA... I hope it's still there!
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Old 09-27-2014, 05:53 AM   #3247
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Found the "real" issue!!

My apologies for jumping the gun at calling out my EWS Ring!!!

Turns out I have a failed Secondary Stick Coil (left side).

I disconnected it and the fault went away. Reconnected it and the fault returned. I removed it and temp installed the Right Secondary Stick Coil just to make sure it was not the wiring harness and was no fault.

So, this really was an educational exercise. Until yesterday I never heard about EWS issues on these GS's. Moreover, until this morning I never was aware that a failed Stick Coil (shorted) could take out the electrical bus preventing the beast from starting or running.

I am very happy that the timing was perfect for this failure--that I was not 500 miles from a BMW dealer. But I am not quite as pleased with the thought of what other surprises await me in GS ownership!

Smiles and Cries.........
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:34 AM   #3248
Wallowa
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Good Deal

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjfields_228 View Post
My apologies for jumping the gun at calling out my EWS Ring!!!

Turns out I have a failed Secondary Stick Coil (left side).

I disconnected it and the fault went away. Reconnected it and the fault returned. I removed it and temp installed the Right Secondary Stick Coil just to make sure it was not the wiring harness and was no fault.

So, this really was an educational exercise. Until yesterday I never heard about EWS issues on these GS's. Moreover, until this morning I never was aware that a failed Stick Coil (shorted) could take out the electrical bus preventing the beast from starting or running.

I am very happy that the timing was perfect for this failure--that I was not 500 miles from a BMW dealer. But I am not quite as pleased with the thought of what other surprises await me in GS ownership!

Smiles and Cries.........

Great! I also did not know that a coil failure would stop the bike...thanks for that...nice bit of detective work!

Oh, my comment about the battery connectors was not that they were loose but that they could be corroded..

Florida is indeed a rust belt...

Phil
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Old 09-27-2014, 01:51 PM   #3249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallowa View Post
Great! I also did not know that a coil failure would stop the bike...thanks for that...nice bit of detective work!

Oh, my comment about the battery connectors was not that they were loose but that they could be corroded..

Florida is indeed a rust belt...

Phil
ONE coil failure will not stop the bike from running. A secondary coil will only make it run slightly worse, and a primary will give a rough idle and slow acceleration, but the bike will run.
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:05 PM   #3250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
ONE coil failure will not stop the bike from running. A secondary coil will only make it run slightly worse, and a primary will give a rough idle and slow acceleration, but the bike will run.
Jim et.al,

I remove/disconnect the (suspect) secondary coil and the bike starts, runs and has no faults. I re-connect the (Suspect) secondary stick coil and I get a repeat of the 10444 Fault and the Flapper Valve fault. Bike will not start.

Maybe if the Stock Coil fails "open" it will not muck-up the bus as you suggest but if it fails "Short" is it feasible that it does muck-up the bus??

If not, I still have a bug somewhere.
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:11 PM   #3251
Wallowa
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Sooooo

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
ONE coil failure will not stop the bike from running. A secondary coil will only make it run slightly worse, and a primary will give a rough idle and slow acceleration, but the bike will run.

OK Jim and thanks...got that and it makes sense...so the OP has not found the cause of his bike quitting...correct?

Phil
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Old 09-27-2014, 05:17 PM   #3252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallowa View Post
OK Jim and thanks...got that and it makes sense...so the OP has not found the cause of his bike quitting...correct?

Phil
That's what it sounds like.
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:05 PM   #3253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
That's what it sounds like.
So what exactly does this fault mean then? "Normally" I do not get any fault indications when I have a stick coil fail nor does the fucking bike die. In this case, however, the GS911 lists the "ignition coil" as a possible source of the fault. As a process of eliminating it from the configuration the fault goes away. BTW, I also disconnected each of the injector electrical connectors--one at a time--and the fault never went away.

If the stick-coil is only a contributor to a deeper problem then my aggravation level with this $25000 machine has just notched up a bit.

If anyone willing to perform a little trouble shooting for a curious mind --- I would like to send my stick coil to someone with a 2010 to 2013 GSA and have them temp install it on their moto and see what happens. Please PM me if you are interested.

Edit: I am going to start a new thread off of the EWS Mega thread due to the fact that it is not my Immobilizer Antenna.


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mjfields_228 screwed with this post 09-27-2014 at 07:34 PM
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:47 PM   #3254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjfields_228 View Post

Maybe if the Stock Coil fails "open" it will not muck-up the bus as you suggest but if it fails "Short" is it feasible that it does muck-up the bus??
That is a very reasonable interpretation. The full text of the 10444 fault strongly implies that the BMS-K 'electronic fuse' in question does supply power to the ignition coils.

If a coil fails as a 'short circuit', it would follow on that the BMS-K would cut power to that circuit. Which would stop the motor.

A supporting fact is that when a coil fails as an 'open circuit', the more typical fault for these coils, the 'open circuit' doesn't trigger a fault code.



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Old 09-27-2014, 07:48 PM   #3255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjfields_228 View Post
If anyone willing to perform a little trouble shooting for a curious mind ..
First do a simple test of your own. Measure the resistance of the bad coil. How does it compare to the resistance of the good coil?
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