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Old 01-25-2012, 08:48 AM   #5446
sh0rtlife
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Location: 20 mins west of portland oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain S View Post
Hi Fellow XL600 Riders! I have a question as I am not near my XL or an XR at the moment. I am working on an XL600R project which involves using another XL or XR frame. Are the VIN plates on the headstock of the same type...and therefore, theoretically speaking, possible to swop over. No I am not a bike thief! A licensed XR600 may be easier to come by than a good XL. Thanks.

in theory yes..but its the whole head stock thats STAMPED as well as vin tagged..so unless your going to cut the frame..forget about it..it would be easier to swap all the good parts onto the easier to plate frame
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:47 AM   #5447
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain S View Post
...
Are the VIN plates on the headstock of the same type...and therefore, theoretically speaking, possible to swop over.
...
My guess is, that without government authorization, changing the VIN would be considered a crime.
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:26 PM   #5448
sh0rtlife
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Originally Posted by MortimerSickle View Post
My guess is, that without government authorization, changing the VIN would be considered a crime.
that it would......technicaly swapping the frame isnt as your "rebuilding" a bike..but its still frowned on
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #5449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
that it would......technicaly swapping the frame isnt as your "rebuilding" a bike..but its still frowned on
I thought it sounded like he was talking about switching just the VIN info plate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain S View Post
...
Are the VIN plates on the headstock of the same type...and therefore, theoretically speaking, possible to swop over
...
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:00 AM   #5450
bdcorrigan
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
and this right here is why i dont get the comments of "its soo hard to start"...properly adjusted auto de-comp and knowing how to find the sweet spot is all it takes...and before anyone says im low on compression and worn out...shes still pulling into the mid 90mph on the pavement and a wheelie machine and getting GREAT MPG

now mind you she had been sitting for a day and a half before I did this

NIce One!
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:49 AM   #5451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
and this right here is why i dont get the comments of "its soo hard to start"...properly adjusted auto de-comp and knowing how to find the sweet spot is all it takes...and before anyone says im low on compression and worn out...shes still pulling into the mid 90mph on the pavement and a wheelie machine and getting GREAT MPG

now mind you she had been sitting for a day and a half before I did this

Got my piggy back. She runs beautifully. I'm trying this when I get home. Although Clayjars removed the auto de-compression it still feels so much smoother with the kicks. Gonna get her to TDC, pull the manual de-comp lever and kick an inch past TDC then try to start by hand.

sh0rtlife... You had the choke on all the way, right? I always try starting mine without it first. It usually fires up, then dies after two seconds. But when I put the choke on full she stays on after firing up. Is it ok to start her with the choke off and just give it a tiny bit of throttle to get her going? Or should I just let the choke do its thing and ween off it as the idle starts to slow down?


Edit: Decided I didn't want to plague this thread with oil talk.
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:52 PM   #5452
High Country Herb
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That oil is supposed to be OK for your application, but I prefer an oil that can withstand more contaminents before breakdown. I had some Supertech Walmart oil (similar rating) turn to water on me, and that was all I needed to see. Now I use Shell Rotella-T 15-40 for all my vehicles that take conventionals. It can handle modern diesel engine loads/contaminents, takes a beating, and never changes viscosity. It is available nearly everywhere for a decent price.

I'll probably stick to Agip synthetic for the Aplilia until the warranty runs out.
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:04 AM   #5453
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Originally Posted by High Country Herb View Post
That oil is supposed to be OK for your application, but I prefer an oil that can withstand more contaminents before breakdown. I had some Supertech Walmart oil (similar rating) turn to water on me, and that was all I needed to see. Now I use Shell Rotella-T 15-40 for all my vehicles that take conventionals. It can handle modern diesel engine loads/contaminents, takes a beating, and never changes viscosity. It is available nearly everywhere for a decent price.

I'll probably stick to Agip synthetic for the Aplilia until the warranty runs out.
So that Supertech Walmart oil has a similar rating as this oil? Where does the rating read on the container? Is it the "MA" rating?

Edit: Last question then i'm done with the oil talk.
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:39 AM   #5454
sh0rtlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Country Herb View Post
That oil is supposed to be OK for your application, but I prefer an oil that can withstand more contaminents before breakdown. I had some Supertech Walmart oil (similar rating) turn to water on me, and that was all I needed to see. Now I use Shell Rotella-T 15-40 for all my vehicles that take conventionals. It can handle modern diesel engine loads/contaminents, takes a beating, and never changes viscosity. It is available nearly everywhere for a decent price.

I'll probably stick to Agip synthetic for the Aplilia until the warranty runs out.
hwre in the hell did you find rotela?!?!?!?ive been looking for some of that for going on 8 years..my alfa was DESIGNED for it and ive never found any localy
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Old 01-29-2012, 06:08 PM   #5455
daveoneshot
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New to XL's ....need a bit of help.

...Why would a 70 year old dude want to buy an XL 600 ??....Beats me, but I'm about to go look at an 83 and need to
know what to look for right away......any critical things to check out ??......Bike runs, is complete, and I'm still in good
enough shape to kickstart....hope it doesn't kick back.
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:32 PM   #5456
dixda
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XL600V tank

Hey, I've been thinking of increasing the range of my '87 XL600R.
Would the 2000 XL600V tank fit? TIA, KD
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:28 PM   #5457
sh0rtlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scientist of Fun View Post
Got my piggy back. She runs beautifully. I'm trying this when I get home. Although Clayjars removed the auto de-compression it still feels so much smoother with the kicks. Gonna get her to TDC, pull the manual de-comp lever and kick an inch past TDC then try to start by hand.

sh0rtlife... You had the choke on all the way, right? I always try starting mine without it first. It usually fires up, then dies after two seconds. But when I put the choke on full she stays on after firing up. Is it ok to start her with the choke off and just give it a tiny bit of throttle to get her going? Or should I just let the choke do its thing and ween off it as the idle starts to slow down?


Edit: Decided I didn't want to plague this thread with oil talk.

with as much playing with it as ive done...unless its been say less than 8 hours..let the choke do its thing....under 6 hours try the throttle but be carefull ive been bucked pretty damned hard doing that....ive also noticed if the temps outside are say 65+ you may only need a smidge of choke just to make it happy...if its say under 35deg out...my choke actualy slides off a lil too quickly

sh0rtlife screwed with this post 01-29-2012 at 09:58 PM
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:37 AM   #5458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0rtlife View Post
with as much playing with it as ive done...unless its been say less than 8 hours..let the choke do its thing....under 6 hours try the throttle but be carefull ive been bucked pretty damned hard doing that....ive also noticed if the temps outside are say 65+ you may only need a smidge of choke just to make it happy...if its say under 35deg out...my choke actualy slides off a lil too quickly
Yea, I've noticed if I give it just about a quarter choke at temps 60+, that does it.
I have another question regarding the overall power that a 1986 XL600R is supposed to put out. I heard people doing power wheelies in first, second gear with ease and nothing but throttle. Mine doesn't seem to do that at all. Not even in first gear... It's possible I dont actually pull full throttle, but i'm more than sure I do. What do you think is going on with my bike? Maybe i'm naturally distributing my weight too forward in anticipation of the wheel going up, but isn't it supposed to come up anyway? Should I have to lean back a smidge? How does yours run?
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:14 AM   #5459
sh0rtlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scientist of Fun View Post
Yea, I've noticed if I give it just about a quarter choke at temps 60+, that does it.
I have another question regarding the overall power that a 1986 XL600R is supposed to put out. I heard people doing power wheelies in first, second gear with ease and nothing but throttle. Mine doesn't seem to do that at all. Not even in first gear... It's possible I dont actually pull full throttle, but i'm more than sure I do. What do you think is going on with my bike? Maybe i'm naturally distributing my weight too forward in anticipation of the wheel going up, but isn't it supposed to come up anyway? Should I have to lean back a smidge? How does yours run?
couple things to think about..
butt placement...if your hugging the tank its going to be hard but not impossible
traction..if your in loose stuff its not going to pull its going to spin
gearing.....if your gearings been overly altered it may not be capable
engine wear or carb setttings..if the carb and throttle control doesnt act crisply from idle to full pulll that will do it too

now that said..im on street tires and she will still shoot the front up even in the gravel and hard mud...i can hug that tank damn neer sit on it on the pavement and it still pulls the front but "just" enuf to know its doing it but low flying enuf that a cop wouldnt notice me LOL...my old gearing was bad enuf that even tank hugging head hanging over the bars id have the front a foot+ off the ground on every hard launch..on my bike...if i lean....your hanging on for dear life and lookiing at only sky...also when my carbs were giving me hell it couldnt as well....too rich and that will happen as well

needless to say there are alot of variables...and i left one out...worn out clutch....if the clutch is slipping too much it aint ever going to get the nose up......so will uhh ...a "heavy" rider placed neer the tank

i can even yank the nose from about 15mph in 2nd gear..and often do unintentionaly while crossing intersections
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:00 AM   #5460
High Country Herb
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Quote:
Originally posted by daveoneshot
hope it doesn't kick back
Oh, they kick back pretty hard. The trick is not to have all of your body wieght right over your leg, and give your knee room to pop up in front of you. I have heard stories about people getting the kick starter poked through their shoe into the bottom of their foot. As far as what to look for during a purchase: oil leaks around the external lines at the front of the engine - the lines are discontinued and hard to replace, lound timing chain noise - could mean an expensive tear down and maybe head work and cam replacement, and lastly play in the swingarm/wheel bearings - could cost a couple hundred buck to replace them.

shOrtlife - Walmart sells Rotella-T, and so does O'Reiley Auto Parts. I prefer Walmart because they sell quarts, while most other places only sell gallons.

Scientist of Fun - the API rating is the quality indicator, and you can look up their website to see how confusing it is.
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