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Old 07-04-2012, 03:20 PM   #5881
tractor4play
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cdi

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadTrauma View Post
I was merely poking fun at what I thought was a typo. R and T are next to each other on a QWERTY keyboard, after all. And I do like Yamahas, actually...and Suzukis. I tolerate Kawasakis.

As far as using the XT CDI, if possible, I would compare pulse generator and stator winding resistance between XT and XL600s and see if the ignition timing specs are fairly similar.
DEEP
Roger that HT.From what i have read the xt cdi is supposed to be better speced to our xl motors than the oem item.i can not remember the exact numbers but very similar.
as usual good advise HT thanks.
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Old 07-06-2012, 08:46 AM   #5882
scrubby81
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Hot damp weather???

Got my 83 lx 600r out last night for a ride as its been way to warm humid very very warm humid, here 90f to 100f with 85% or better last few days. Left house had a hell o time getting it going then never ran right till it got good and warmed up then not at 100% maby 70% of normal I have switched to running 50/50 race gas 115 oct and 91 oct no ethonal fuel. I just did the carbs ( spring ) and have a UNI filter new ( just instaled last oil change had a UNI before also ) adjusted valves less than 30 miles ago ran great before this weather but now even this am it isn't. When I made a pit stop last night again 5 or 6 kicks to get it going again then it would sneeze and stall ( normaly a 2 kick bike ). Anybody else having these problems in hot weather ? I was thinking it is warm enough to need to change jetting but none of my other carbed ( autos or bikes ) seem to mind this as much
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:41 AM   #5883
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Does doing a flood-clearing procedure help at all? Why such high octane fuel?
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:00 PM   #5884
scrubby81
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I used the clear out method turn off fuel and hold wide open and it just kicks like a mule and run the high oct fuel as most the fuel in this area is pure crap that is shipped to me in drums so I have it onhand I was hoping it would help with some other issue with the bike and it did very well ( spark knock and doggy bottom end )
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:29 PM   #5885
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Are you holding the compression release open and turning the ignition off when clearing it out?
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Old 07-06-2012, 06:34 PM   #5886
scrubby81
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yes the ign switch is off de compression is held in at handle bars
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:12 PM   #5887
cam14
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Removing head

Working on my 85 XL600R, I have the motor out of the frame, valve cover off and all the bolts that hold the head on, both under the valve cover and on the side by the cam chain. But the head seems stuck. I've hit it with a dead blow and tried to pry on it (not too hard, do not want to damage the fins). So, is there a trick to getting the head off?

TIA for your insight.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:26 PM   #5888
scrubby81
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cooler weather has moved in and bike is back to running like a champ again ordered a new header for it going to drill it and instal an o2 bung and hook up the meter to it see what it is running at so time will tell
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:28 PM   #5889
cynicwanderer
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there are two small nuts on the cam chain side of the head that hold the head to the cylinder. I suspect they there are to make sure there is compression for the seal so oil doesn't leak, but if you don't take them off, the head won't come off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cam14 View Post
Working on my 85 XL600R, I have the motor out of the frame, valve cover off and all the bolts that hold the head on, both under the valve cover and on the side by the cam chain. But the head seems stuck. I've hit it with a dead blow and tried to pry on it (not too hard, do not want to damage the fins). So, is there a trick to getting the head off?

TIA for your insight.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:42 PM   #5890
lookfar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam14 View Post
Working on my 85 XL600R, I have the motor out of the frame, valve cover off and all the bolts that hold the head on, both under the valve cover and on the side by the cam chain. But the head seems stuck. I've hit it with a dead blow and tried to pry on it (not too hard, do not want to damage the fins). So, is there a trick to getting the head off?

TIA for your insight.
There is another head bolt under a small round cover on the inlet side of the head, roughly between the carb runners.
Been trying to find a pic of it's location, but can't seem to find one. This cover is under the valve cover and has a small pin poking up in the centre of it. Remove it, and the head bolt is under there.


HTH
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:05 PM   #5891
cam14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookfar View Post
There is another head bolt under a small round cover on the inlet side of the head, roughly between the carb runners.
Been trying to find a pic of it's location, but can't seem to find one. This cover is under the valve cover and has a small pin poking up in the centre of it. Remove it, and the head bolt is under there.


HTH
Perfect, thank you, that was it. It is a little plunger with an O ring. Not sure of it's purpose but there was an extra head bolt hiding under it.

Again, thanks.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:51 PM   #5892
cynicwanderer
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Location: sacramento
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wide range jetting

I live at sea level and my current jetting is such that it will run slightly lean at sea level and run fine up to abpout 4000-5000ft, if I remember to set the idle speed a little higher. at 6000ft, it will sputter a bit when I accelerate and it won't run cleanly at medium to high RPM at 7000ft. now, I do know how to jet a carburetor properly, however, some of my rides will take me from 0-7000ft and above in one day. I wish there was a way to adjust the mixture or jetting without pulling the bowls and replacing jets on the side of the road and then remembering to swap them back when coming back down, which is a pain (especially on a dual carb XL/XR). I usually don't bother and just live with the sputter, but wish I didn't have to.

any ideas ? has anyone tried a dial a jet on a xl600r or any other dual carb honda XL/XR ? are there other products ?
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:13 PM   #5893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookfar View Post
There is another head bolt under a small round cover on the inlet side of the head, roughly between the carb runners.
Been trying to find a pic of it's location, but can't seem to find one. This cover is under the valve cover and has a small pin poking up in the centre of it. Remove it, and the head bolt is under there.


HTH
I know I posted one in this thread a long time ago, but can't find it for some reason.



Quote:
Originally Posted by cam14 View Post
Perfect, thank you, that was it. It is a little plunger with an O ring. Not sure of it's purpose but there was an extra head bolt hiding under it.
It was exposed to the intake charge on engines with a reed bypass. It may have tended to collect fuel or pull air around the bolt or something.
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HeadTrauma screwed with this post 07-09-2012 at 11:18 PM
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:30 PM   #5894
Onederer
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Location: Baha
Oddometer: 705
On The Road Again

My '84 XL is back on the road again after a collision with a car last September. I have had most of the parts for a while but just got around to fixing it. I still have to get a front fender, passenger pegs and speedometer, but I have put a few hundred miles on it and it feels great. No frame damage I can tell, which when I pulled the trees apart and seen the bent steering stem I was really worried the frame was damaged. I can turn loose of the bars and it goes straight and nothing feels different other than I think it actually rides better as in the bars were never perfectly straight with the wheel and now they are. It only took collision with a car to straighten it out, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Replaced everything with stock parts except I am going for a digital speedo for functional reasons. I also put on the fork brace I bought from http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/StoreFront when I replace the front end. I haven't pushed it in a turn yet because the front tire is a used one that came with the wheel I bought and is weather checked pretty bad (hard), but the bike goes over road grooves like they aren't there, so it has helped at least that much. For $100, I am very happy with it and it was made in Italy which is cast into the bridge, so I can ride with a pinky out. Another thanks to the people who some pages back, posted a link to it. I put new seals and wipers in the replacement forks with some 10wt oil, but would like to find out if some Emulators fit (after I get everything else sorted).

The Supertrapp that was on it got holed during the crash and I put the IDS on it from my XR650L (put the stocker back on that one). The IDS is actually louder than the classic open disk version that was on it. Both were with fresh packing and the same number of disk. With the open disk Trapp, until the second carb came on, it was reasonably quiet so I could consciously keep the sound down with throttle control, but the IDS is about the same no matter throttle position. Maybe it is because the IDS has a hollow tube after the disk which amplifies the sound. The IDS won't burn any luggage though, or leave a black spot on the fender. I do have 12 disk in it, so I may take a few out. It was not as loud on the XR650L.

Anyway, I am thrilled to be back on the bike and that the frame appears OK. The XL600R is just one of those bikes that I will never get tired of and if I ever lost, I would want again.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:05 AM   #5895
brucifer
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Good deal, Onederer. Glad to hear you got 'er back on the road.
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