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Old 11-06-2012, 02:46 PM   #6316
High Country Herb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billtr96sn View Post
Moving the wrist pin in the piston will not change the stroke at all, just the compression ratio, the stroke is set at the other end of the conrod down at the flywheels.
Correct. The stroke is determined by the throw of the crankshaft. Changing the connecting rod or wrist pin location adjusts the position of the piston, leaving less (or more) room in the combustion chamber, which changes compression. This can also be done by choosing dome top or dished pistons. I don't know how much valve to piston clearance the Hondas have, however, so caution is advised.

I'll be curious to see how difficult this project turns out to be. Someday, I'll probably want to do the same (even though I razz the e-start guys all the time ). It would be really cool to have both, in case the battery dies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracus124 View Post
What Kind of turn signals do ya'll use? I've been buying mine off ebay. The problem is that they break when I fall, if a branch hits them and my friend kicked one off when he mounted my XL when we traded rides for a little bit. I know they're bound to break, I just want ones that are of better quality.

Is there any that will flex a little before breaking? or what about some really small ones? or maybe some I can take off real quick before I jump in the dirt? I'm sick of buying these things lol

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/...n-signals.html
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:53 PM   #6317
cynicwanderer
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I had a similar problem with my xr650l forks (clunking). in my case, the top of the dampener rod wasn't screwed onto the endcap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tractor4play View Post
i just adapted xr650r forks onto my xl.
i serviced the forks before hand.
flushed them out.removed springs.fully compressed.
2.5 wt synthetic oil with 110mm air gap to top of fork.
all back together and nipped up to honda specs.
compressing each fork leg by hand before fitting they function nicely.
BUT as soon as i remove pressure on the rebound theres a slight clunk from each fork.
any ideas? could it be air pressure?
worn springs?
free spring length was 505mm. i think.my memory not what it used to be.
what was i talking about?
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:09 PM   #6318
Sierra Thumper
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Laugh Just do it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Sell the XL and buy a XR650l. Much easier in the end.
Exactly what I was going to say.....the xrl has better suspension and frame geometry, way more torque, is smoother on the highway, and is just as strong or stronger running than the xl mod for mod. Plus parts are everywhere and cheap
And if you keep the battery on a tender when not riding it it'll always start strong, and the battery will last forever.
I would sell the xl and pick up an xlr.....with a few simple mods you'll never look back
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:20 AM   #6319
beardothebeardo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
Exactly what I was going to say.....the xrl has better suspension and frame geometry, way more torque, is smoother on the highway, and is just as strong or stronger running than the xl mod for mod. Plus parts are everywhere and cheap
And if you keep the battery on a tender when not riding it it'll always start strong, and the battery will last forever.
I would sell the xl and pick up an xlr.....with a few simple mods you'll never look back
Got to disagree with you on the 'way more torque' part of your reply. I had an 08 XRL and two XL6s. The XL6s easily have more power than the XRL could wished to have had. And yes, I have ridden other XRLs as comparisons. Mine was right on par with the others.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:00 AM   #6320
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you're right, an unmolested XL has more power and torque than a stock XRL. however, there are more mods available for the XRL. especially the carb. the dual carb setup of the XL gives it more accurate metering through the whole range. the CV carb on the XRL gives it better metering range over elevation (helps with SMOG), but is a bit sluggish. the XRL can benefit from a nice pumper carb, but then you're back to messing around with jetting for elevation changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beardothebeardo View Post
Got to disagree with you on the 'way more torque' part of your reply. I had an 08 XRL and two XL6s. The XL6s easily have more power than the XRL could wished to have had. And yes, I have ridden other XRLs as comparisons. Mine was right on par with the others.
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:19 PM   #6321
High Country Herb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
...I would sell the xl and pick up an xlr.....with a few simple mods you'll never look back
This would be the most important mod for me; fitting this seat on the newer bike.


The most comfortable motorcycle seat I've sat on. Wide, flat, and thick...
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:56 PM   #6322
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beardothebeardo View Post
Got to disagree with you on the 'way more torque' part of your reply. I had an 08 XRL and two XL6s. The XL6s easily have more power than the XRL could wished to have had. And yes, I have ridden other XRLs as comparisons. Mine was right on par with the others.
I should have been clearer, I meant after derestricting/desmogging/Daves mods+drilled slide/desnorkeled/filter and slip-on exhaust he'd never miss the xl6. Stock the xrl is strangled worse than the xl I agree, but once its modded imo its the better overall machine if he's wanting e-start for many reasons.
I've ridden both similiarly modded and the xrl had more torque, and pulled harder everywhere than the xl....not a huge diff up top, but alot more down low I've never ridden a stock xl6 tho....and only ridden the 1 modded xl6
The xrl has more low-end torque than any other xr/xl I've ever ridden, honda designed it that way with the flywheel weight and engine set-up/size......I like the low end alot

Quote:
Originally Posted by cynicwanderer View Post
you're right, an unmolested XL has more power and torque than a stock XRL. however, there are more mods available for the XRL. especially the carb. the dual carb setup of the XL gives it more accurate metering through the whole range. the CV carb on the XRL gives it better metering range over elevation (helps with SMOG), but is a bit sluggish. the XRL can benefit from a nice pumper carb, but then you're back to messing around with jetting for elevation changes.
Yep like I said above, I should have been clearer...I meant a modded xrl, I would never leave an overly strangled xrl stock....where's the fun in that? With Daves mods and a drilled slide+everything else listed above, youd be suprised how quick and hard the throttle response is.
Besides taking the xl6 for a ride....I owned a tricked-out street converted 84 xr500 with engine work and dual carbs, along with 2 xl500's, the throttle response between the xrl and 500's was very similiar. Personally I prefer a single carb if you can get them to perform the same.....my duals on the 500's needed to much fiddling, the single on the xrl is set it and forget it, and adapts awesome to elevation changes from a couple thousand feet up to over 8 thousand where I ride. The duals struggled with the same riding area.


Don't get me wrong, I aint knockin' the xl6, ALL honda xl/xr's are GREAT bikes in my book, would own and have a ball on any of them thats why I still own one and probably always will
I'm just saying imo it would be a smarter move to sell the xl and pick up an xrl and mod it some over converting an xl6 to electric start, for all the reasons I orignally posted.....cheap parts and easy to get, plenty of aftermarket support, better frame/suspension, no step down in performance at all properly modded+more low end torque again imo, and excellent functioning e-start already built in
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:23 PM   #6323
mcma111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moparmanpete View Post
WOOHOOOOOO!

Machinist said the parts should be done this weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Back to work on the "Cracken"!

Don't hold your breath







































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Old 11-07-2012, 03:55 PM   #6324
beardothebeardo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I should have been clearer, I meant after derestricting/desmogging/Daves mods+drilled slide/desnorkeled/filter and slip-on exhaust he'd never miss the xl6. Stock the xrl is strangled worse than the xl I agree, but once its modded imo its the better overall machine if he's wanting e-start for many reasons.
I've ridden both similiarly modded and the xrl had more torque, and pulled harder everywhere than the xl....not a huge diff up top, but alot more down low I've never ridden a stock xl6 tho....and only ridden the 1 modded xl6
The xrl has more low-end torque than any other xr/xl I've ever ridden, honda designed it that way with the flywheel weight and engine set-up/size......I like the low end alot

Yep like I said above, I should have been clearer...I meant a modded xrl, I would never leave an overly strangled xrl stock....where's the fun in that? With Daves mods and a drilled slide+everything else listed above, youd be suprised how quick and hard the throttle response is.
Besides taking the xl6 for a ride....I owned a tricked-out street converted 84 xr500 with engine work and dual carbs, along with 2 xl500's, the throttle response between the xrl and 500's was very similiar. Personally I prefer a single carb if you can get them to perform the same.....my duals on the 500's needed to much fiddling, the single on the xrl is set it and forget it, and adapts awesome to elevation changes from a couple thousand feet up to over 8 thousand where I ride. The duals struggled with the same riding area.


Don't get me wrong, I aint knockin' the xl6, ALL honda xl/xr's are GREAT bikes in my book, would own and have a ball on any of them thats why I still own one and probably always will
I'm just saying imo it would be a smarter move to sell the xl and pick up an xrl and mod it some over converting an xl6 to electric start, for all the reasons I orignally posted.....cheap parts and easy to get, plenty of aftermarket support, better frame/suspension, no step down in performance at all properly modded+more low end torque again imo, and excellent functioning e-start already built in
LOL My XRL was modded. Carb, A/C and muffler. I would never go back to an XRL. I guess just personal preference.

Couple that with the sane seat height (I'm short dammit!), pillowy suspension (too darn beat up to get crazy) and light weight. I'm better off with an XL6!
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:39 PM   #6325
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Eek

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moparmanpete View Post
LOL!


Hey,
I have a question, my cylinder head gasket was 3 pieces stacked, If I order a new one will it be the same or should I reuse the old ones?

And any reason not to use anti-sieze on my bolts?
The new head gasket will be constructed the same. I would NEVER recommend or reuse a head gasket.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:00 PM   #6326
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beardothebeardo View Post
LOL My XRL was modded. Carb, A/C and muffler. I would never go back to an XRL. I guess just personal preference.

Couple that with the sane seat height (I'm short dammit!), pillowy suspension (too darn beat up to get crazy) and light weight. I'm better off with an XL6!
Yep the xrl is way tall, I'm 6'3" and mines been internally lowered and revalved/resprung in the front, and same in the rear with a kouba link, and its still tall even for me They are crazy tall stock But man does the suspension work awesome now.....I can go over anything and catch plenty of air, and its still like riding a cloud The suspension has saved my butt multiple times from mistakes on my part

And you're right, unfortunately you pay a price for e-start in the weight department.
I'd be just as happy with an xl600 tho, I would have picked one up in a minute if there would have been one for sale when I was shopping...in fact thats what I had in mind....but the xrl came up first Although a nice xl6 came up a week later

I've never had an e-start dirt bike before....at first I was a little concerned about no kickstarter, but with a new battery and always on the tender starting's a non-issue. I think I'd miss the magic button now
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:00 AM   #6327
Billtr96sn
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Anti sieze (Or a dab of grease) is OK, just be careful when torqueing down as the effective torque you applying will be more than a dry bolt.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:45 AM   #6328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billtr96sn View Post
Anti sieze (Or a dab of grease) is OK, just be careful when torqueing down as the effective torque you applying will be more than a dry bolt.
I usually deduct 10%. I.E. If it specified 20 ft.lbs. I would torque to 19 ft. lbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moparmanpete View Post
Ok, I was wondering if they were stackable gaskets to raise and lower the compression or deck highth. They are not stackable. That's just the way there made.


What about using anti-sieze? I don't see anyone else using it and am wondering why? I wish the PO would have used it. I use it all the time.





I so can't wait to get it back on the road!
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:54 AM   #6329
mcma111
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Honda factory manual states to oil the bolt threads and the washer.
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BMW's
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91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:16 AM   #6330
High Country Herb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moparmanpete View Post
Ok, I was wondering if they were stackable gaskets to raise and lower the compression or deck highth.

What about using anti-sieze? I don't see anyone else using it and am wondering why? I wish the PO would have used it.

I so can't wait to get it back on the road!
If the manual says to use oil on the threads, like mcma111 said, I would go that route. From what I've heard, the closer you can stay to the Honda factory methods, the better things work on the big thumpers. The anti-sieze could cause you to over-torque the bolts and strip out the threads, which is a can of worms better left sealed. Use oil, and an accurate torque wrench.

I haven't had mine apart, so I don't know if the gasket is supposed to be layered like you describe. It is possible someone stacked them to lower compression. You should use a (only one) genuine OEM Honda gasket. Honda OEM makes quality stuff that will last for years.

I think its cool you are going through such efforts to get the bike you want. Sure it would be easier to buy the newer bike, but what fun would that be? I hope you post close up pictures of how you did it.
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