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Old 01-15-2013, 09:43 PM   #6736
12120
Indenturedx5
 
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: SW Washington USA
Oddometer: 370
Oil leak stator cover

I still have a oil leak. Looks like the stator gasket. New gasket, in fact second new gasket. I am thinking a little sealant to stick it together better? Anyone see any reason why not. New Ricky stator in there so I shouldn't have to take it off again soon.

Chris
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:46 AM   #6737
lookfar
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Location: Cairns, FNQ
Oddometer: 579
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12120 View Post
I still have a oil leak. Looks like the stator gasket. New gasket, in fact second new gasket. I am thinking a little sealant to stick it together better? Anyone see any reason why not. New Ricky stator in there so I shouldn't have to take it off again soon.

Chris
G'day Chris,
I used an aviation grade sealant on both sides of the gasket when I did my stator..hasn't leaked since.


HTH



.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:01 AM   #6738
Edouard_Bracame
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Oddometer: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretchah View Post
Hey guys,

Just a quick update re. the work to fix my sunken valve seats etc. The garage called me today and it turns out the head is cracked between the valve seat and the spark plug

They are going to weld the head (apparently it will be like new) and replace all the valves and guides plus a new cam chain rings etc and gaskets and a few other parts i needed to rebuild it, total cost is expected to be around 800 for everything

On the upside at least the barrel just needed a hone and new rings

It is a lot of cash, but, I'm just thinking that at least I'll know that everything is sorted on it then and fingers crossed once It's fixed it shouldn't need to be done again....
Honnestly, the crack thing is usually something superficial, now regarding the guides and valves, I'm surprised that the valves need to be replaced as most of the time a valve grinding/resurfacing is enough and much les expensive, if they replace the guides a resurfacing of the valve seats is mandatory.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:39 AM   #6739
mcma111
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Location: San Francisco,Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12120 View Post
I still have a oil leak. Looks like the stator gasket. New gasket, in fact second new gasket. I am thinking a little sealant to stick it together better? Anyone see any reason why not. New Ricky stator in there so I shouldn't have to take it off again soon.

Chris

It's the grommet where the wires pass through the cover. Goop on some sealant after you clean it really well and you should be good to go.


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Old 01-16-2013, 10:50 AM   #6740
Stretchah
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Cheers guys, glad to know I'm not the only crack head here

Edouard, I know what you mean, it is perhaps a little overkill, although, the valves were pretty burnt up... they will be resurfacing etc..and I'm quite safe in the knowledge that it will all be done properly. I'm thinking that it's a lot to shell out, but, I'll know that the top end is all perfect then as future reliability is what I'm after and already starting to plan a shoestring budget ride to Morocco

My next plan is to get an Oil temp dipstick and fit an oil cooler and fan to try and avoid any future damage through over heating etc. I was thinking that I may be able to find one from a pit bike that would fit nicely.

My plan is to add it to mount it to the front forks under the headlight shroud like the dakar bikes did and fit a stone grill.

I'll keep you all posted on this, as will be saving pennies first
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:05 PM   #6741
RFVC600R
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: SAND LAND
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12120 View Post
I still have a oil leak. Looks like the stator gasket. New gasket, in fact second new gasket. I am thinking a little sealant to stick it together better? Anyone see any reason why not. New Ricky stator in there so I shouldn't have to take it off again soon.

Chris
My uncle repaired that leak for me last month with a cereal box and gasket goop.

he had me take the alternator cover off, then he took engine enamel and sprayed the mating surface on the cover, then pressed a cereal box against it and it traced a perfect gasket on the box. 10 minutes later with a fresh exacto blade and I had a Kellog's gasket

Definitely use the goop, just be careful not to get it in the oil gallery for the clutch rod. I torqued them to 10ftlbs. no leaks from it in the last month or so i've been running it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretchah View Post
Cheers guys, glad to know I'm not the only crack head here

Edouard, I know what you mean, it is perhaps a little overkill, although, the valves were pretty burnt up... they will be resurfacing etc..and I'm quite safe in the knowledge that it will all be done properly. I'm thinking that it's a lot to shell out, but, I'll know that the top end is all perfect then as future reliability is what I'm after and already starting to plan a shoestring budget ride to Morocco

My next plan is to get an Oil temp dipstick and fit an oil cooler and fan to try and avoid any future damage through over heating etc. I was thinking that I may be able to find one from a pit bike that would fit nicely.

My plan is to add it to mount it to the front forks under the headlight shroud like the dakar bikes did and fit a stone grill.

I'll keep you all posted on this, as will be saving pennies first
I ran my bike HARD offroad with 15W50 Pennzoil in the summer months with ambient tempurates as high as 116F. I've never had a problem with overheating


If it was to break down on me, it woulda been this day. Bald tires at the dunes, I was in third gear constantly keeping revs up for about 3 hours, I pulled spark plug the next day it, was a still perfect.

God my bike looks so different now i need some updated pics
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He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.

RFVC600R screwed with this post 01-16-2013 at 01:19 PM
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:26 PM   #6742
daviethebiker
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Location: Watsonville, CA
Oddometer: 43
Drive chain guide

I've had my 1987 XL600 almost a year now and noticed the bike needs a new chain guide, the one on the front part of the swingarm. The dealer item is over $100 and I would prefer to find something cheaper. The guide on the bike is not like the stock one the dealer can order but I can't find anything like it online and the old one has no brand or numbers. Is there a cheaper guide from a different model that fits ? Can anyone find the material to make one themselves ? I just one something to protect the swingarm from the chain but not pay any more money than I need to pay. Thank you for any leads. I am fairly new to the XL600 bikes.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:57 PM   #6743
Zombie_Stomp
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: SE Portland/ Carrboroland NC
Oddometer: 2,231
You can install a thin block of nylon material on the top of the swingarm where it rubs the most. The botttom I would not worry too much about as it rarely makes contact there. The hard part about doing this is that you have to mill or dremel out the area where the gusset on the swingarm is. This is the welded part that connects both halves of the swingarm and sticks up from the half of the swingarm that the chain sits on. I dremeled it close enough and filled in the difference with silicone once I got the screw holes in the right locations. Come to think of it, you could probably get away with a good amount of silicone after getting the screw hole locations drilled out. I did this and used oil-impregnated nylon from mcmaster-carr. well, that's what I used on the bottom chain rubbing bloock thingy. i did have the "Nyl-oil" nylon ready for the top slider ready to go but stayed with the original white nylon I until I changed to an XR600 swingarm. So, in summary, if you don't want to buy the expensive parts, you can make your own, and it can be in such a way that it is better than stock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by daviethebiker View Post
I've had my 1987 XL600 almost a year now and noticed the bike needs a new chain guide, the one on the front part of the swingarm. The dealer item is over $100 and I would prefer to find something cheaper. The guide on the bike is not like the stock one the dealer can order but I can't find anything like it online and the old one has no brand or numbers. Is there a cheaper guide from a different model that fits ? Can anyone find the material to make one themselves ? I just one something to protect the swingarm from the chain but not pay any more money than I need to pay. Thank you for any leads. I am fairly new to the XL600 bikes.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:16 PM   #6744
12120
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: SW Washington USA
Oddometer: 370
One thing for another

So I ride to work this morning. BRRR. Got the grips on high. I pull into the shop and I smell hot electrical. I assume it is the electric motor shop across the street burning wire again. RIde home tonight and BRRRRRRRRRR. Pull it in the carport and same smell. I don't see any smoke. Just smells hot. Can't see where it is coming from. I did not get this smell before the new stator. I also did not need the grips to be on high cause it wasn't 33 degrees out. Thank goodness it is a short ride to work. I was sniffing around for the source of the stink. Smells the worst around the controller for the grips. BIke Master grips is what they are. Anyone have this same smelly problem with their grips when the are new?

Chris
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:42 PM   #6745
TonyfromOR
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Location: Oregon, Peoples Republik of
Oddometer: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by daviethebiker View Post
I've had my 1987 XL600 almost a year now and noticed the bike needs a new chain guide, the one on the front part of the swingarm. The dealer item is over $100 and I would prefer to find something cheaper. The guide on the bike is not like the stock one the dealer can order but I can't find anything like it online and the old one has no brand or numbers. Is there a cheaper guide from a different model that fits ? Can anyone find the material to make one themselves ? I just one something to protect the swingarm from the chain but not pay any more money than I need to pay. Thank you for any leads. I am fairly new to the XL600 bikes.
They are all over Ebay for $40 to $50. Sometimes you even have a choice of colors!
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:59 AM   #6746
Stretchah
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Joined: Oct 2012
Location: London
Oddometer: 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracus124 View Post
My uncle repaired that leak for me last month with a cereal box and gasket goop.

he had me take the alternator cover off, then he took engine enamel and sprayed the mating surface on the cover, then pressed a cereal box against it and it traced a perfect gasket on the box. 10 minutes later with a fresh exacto blade and I had a Kellog's gasket

Definitely use the goop, just be careful not to get it in the oil gallery for the clutch rod. I torqued them to 10ftlbs. no leaks from it in the last month or so i've been running it.



I ran my bike HARD offroad with 15W50 Pennzoil in the summer months with ambient tempurates as high as 116F. I've never had a problem with overheating


If it was to break down on me, it woulda been this day. Bald tires at the dunes, I was in third gear constantly keeping revs up for about 3 hours, I pulled spark plug the next day it, was a still perfect.

God my bike looks so different now i need some updated pics
Cheers Dracus, that's good to know, I'll may just go for the temp dipstick then, I'll see how it goes...
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:31 PM   #6747
RFVC600R
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: SAND LAND
Oddometer: 2,607
I visited my uncle again yesterday to install the new clutch cover. my bike is now leak free
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'83 Honda XL600R 618cc 11:1 Wiseco, XR's Only Exhaust, big tube header, 6 Sigma stage 3 carb mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
He's the XL600 Jesus, his bike dies for our sins.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:15 PM   #6748
crobox
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Taos, NM
Oddometer: 327
I just got my valves re-surfaced. I asked the guy who did it for me, a friend, how much material he took off, and whether he thought it would be worth adding an extra shim under the springs to make up for it. He said he took off very little material and didn't think it would be necessary.

But now I wanna ask this group. What do y'all think? There are washers/shims in there already which measure about 1mm thick, or about .039". I read in someone's post on here somewhere that they assembled their engine with additional .040" shims just for a little performance enhancement from increased spring tension. It wouldn't be too hard for me to make some thicker shims.

Opinions?

Thanks,
Christian
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:24 PM   #6749
mcma111
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Location: San Francisco,Ca.
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Your wasting your time thinking about shimming the valve springs. If anything your friend only KISSED the valve to clean it up. Not like he's taking MM's off of it.
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BMW's
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:27 PM   #6750
dirtyron
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Location: taos new mexico
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are the springs progressive? i doubt it so you don't increase tension as they depress. ideally you shim them the same amount as the seats/valves were ground.i wouldn't want anymore tension than needed to alleviate wear on the valve train. personally i would leave them alone.
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