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Old 04-14-2013, 09:58 AM   #7321
jontow
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new caliper

I had some trouble with the front caliper being a bit spongy last year, and after multiple flush/bleed/teardown cycles, I got sick of it. It seems the XL600R caliper can't be found anymore, at least not inexpensively, so I did what any unreasonable guy would do: I followed some foggy advice from an internet guy I'd never met or talked to and bought an 04-06 RM250 Nissin 2-pot caliper on ebay for cheap and modified it. I'll still probably do a very careful rebuild of my old caliper and bag it for a spare.

I figured since I never found any picture of wtf he was talking about, I'd post a few. I've just got it on and have done a first bleed, and it feels a bit better on the stand. Haven't rode on it yet, but it feels like I ought to replace the master cylinder and hoses, too. It's a little better, but not the night/day difference I'd hoped. Internet dude said massive improvement.

The modifications are pretty straightforward, requiring only an angle grinder and some balls to grind up the mount of a new-to-you caliper. The issue is that its not clearanced the same for our rotor mount bolts, as well as the little JIS screws that secure the dust cover.

Since I had no solid advice to work from, I went slowly, doing 5 or 6 grind/fit cycles, but here's what I ended up with:







Here's the finished fit:





There's quite a lot of meat on the mounting bracket, so I'm not too worried about weakening it, and I managed an easy 1mm of clearance for the rotor bolts. We'll see how it does once I get this season's tires mounted.

As a data point, I think I paid ~$30 for the RM250 caliper on ebay, including a pretty ok set of pads, plus $5 shipping or so; compared to the ~$100+ for the OEM Honda caliper I had my eye on. I'm not sure what other years fit, but internet-dude said "reasonably modern RM250". Take from that what you will: I just found one that had a visually similar mounting pattern, and lucked out.

Other quick notes:

The banjo bolts are roughly the same length for both calipers, I opted to reuse my original because it was a 12mm head that matched the caliper mounting bolts, vs. the RM250 one which was an allen head bolt. Washers are similar as well.

No modifications required to the bike itself, just the caliper bracket, so if it sucks, I can go back and put the RM250 caliper on a shelf to hold some brake fluid soaked papers down.

Hope this helps someone else.
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:15 PM   #7322
Carter Pewterschmidt
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Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
Look at what we have here.
My advise is don't run that with a stock exhaust. At least when I tried to it make the bike detonate like crazy.
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:20 PM   #7323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jontow View Post
I had some trouble with the front caliper being a bit spongy last year, and after multiple flush/bleed/teardown cycles, I got sick of it. It seems the XL600R caliper can't be found anymore, at least not inexpensively, so I did what any unreasonable guy would do: I followed some foggy advice from an internet guy I'd never met or talked to and bought an 04-06 RM250 Nissin 2-pot caliper on ebay for cheap and modified it. I'll still probably do a very careful rebuild of my old caliper and bag it for a spare.

Hope this helps someone else.
Thank's for the informative write up. Better than when people just say that it "bolts on" with "a bit of work" without giving you the details.

I'm using a similar caliper from the later (95 or so and up) Honda XR and CR bikes. I bought a 320mm supermoto front rotor kit and you have to use that brake with the supplied spacer bracket. For all I know the caliper might even be the same thing as the Suzuki one.
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:35 PM   #7324
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Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
My advise is don't run that with a stock exhaust. At least when I tried to it make the bike detonate like crazy.
How hard is it to kickstart compared to stock? Leg ripper?
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:39 PM   #7325
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Water crossing mods??

Although I won't be taking my XL to Iceland any time TOO soon, it's on the list, possibly as soon as summer 2014. To that end I've been reading some pretty great Ride Reports elsewhere here on ADVrider. One thing that surprised me slightly was the multiple deep river crossings these guys are doing, and it's got me thinking...

Issues I can think of are:
- The various vents on the carbs. Most of them are small so I'm thinking that small diameter tubes can be attached and routed up under the seat, or maybe even under the tank and up near the steering stem for an even higher exit.
- Crankcase breather. Similar story... Run a tube somewhere up high.
- Rear drum brake. It seems to me that water could very easily get in there, and maybe not get out as easily. Not sure if there's a drain there, but I don't remember one (this is from memory and I can't go look at the bike right now)
- And the big concern, the air intake. I realize its already pretty high in the bike, but im curious about whether its possible to improve its resistance to sucking in water. I recently Swiss-cheesed mine for more air flow, which was definitely not a great idea in this context. But let's say I could close those holes, or re-make the airbox out of aluminum, then where to route the air intake? I don't think it would be possible to go forward on the bike, under the tank. I guess it could theoretically go back, under the seat, and up behind the rider, especially if it could hide behind a top-box. Or maybe I'm just being ridiculous here.

I can't think of any other trouble spots at the moment.

Can anyone think of any others, or offer different ideas about those listed above?

I might start some of these mods sooner rather than later, as I'll be going on at least one multi-day ride this spring which might involve a small river or two. Oh, and also, I used the search function with a bunch of related terms and came up empty.
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:47 PM   #7326
jontow
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Well, here we are.. another riding season.. new tires, new caliper, fresh spray-off with the hose.




Trying Kenda K761s this year, as I anticipate riding on the slab more than last year, and I've got the TW200 if any lengthy dirt rides tickle my fancy bone. The K761s claim to be tubeless, and sure are a bastard to mount, but they're relatively smooth inside, and fit well. Had a bit of an issue with my duct tape rim strip augmentation, so I had to dismount the front and clean my sloppy work up. It appears these shoes are a tight fit, and they're relatively stiff. I'm gonna hate myself when I swap them off.

Brief impressions about previous tires (Dunlop D606 front and back). Rear wasn't entirely worn out, probably had another 1000 miles on it, but it was *LOUD*. Front decided to wear all sorts of unevenly, and was as loud as the rear, so I decided I'm just plain done with them. They didn't grip nearly as well on pavement or in the dirt as I'd expected, and certainly not even as well as my old worn out Cheng-Shin front or 80% bald Kenda K270 on the rear, so, whatever. I put about 3000 miles on the D606s, and really wasn't digging the idea of putting too many more on them. Wouldn't buy 'em again: they look more aggressive than they feel.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:01 PM   #7327
Carter Pewterschmidt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
How hard is it to kickstart compared to stock? Leg ripper?
I don't think it's terrible. After a season of riding I got a procedure down that rarely fails. As far as stock starting I couldn't compare. Mine had like 90psi with the stock configuration so I don't know what it was supposed to start like originally.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:19 PM   #7328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crobox View Post
Although I won't be taking my XL to Iceland any time TOO soon, it's on the list, possibly as soon as summer 2014. To that end I've been reading some pretty great Ride Reports elsewhere here on ADVrider. One thing that surprised me slightly was the multiple deep river crossings these guys are doing, and it's got me thinking...

Issues I can think of are:
- The various vents on the carbs. Most of them are small so I'm thinking that small diameter tubes can be attached and routed up under the seat, or maybe even under the tank and up near the steering stem for an even higher exit.
- Crankcase breather. Similar story... Run a tube somewhere up high.
- Rear drum brake. It seems to me that water could very easily get in there, and maybe not get out as easily. Not sure if there's a drain there, but I don't remember one (this is from memory and I can't go look at the bike right now)
- And the big concern, the air intake. I realize its already pretty high in the bike, but im curious about whether its possible to improve its resistance to sucking in water. I recently Swiss-cheesed mine for more air flow, which was definitely not a great idea in this context. But let's say I could close those holes, or re-make the airbox out of aluminum, then where to route the air intake? I don't think it would be possible to go forward on the bike, under the tank. I guess it could theoretically go back, under the seat, and up behind the rider, especially if it could hide behind a top-box. Or maybe I'm just being ridiculous here.

I can't think of any other trouble spots at the moment.

Can anyone think of any others, or offer different ideas about those listed above?

I might start some of these mods sooner rather than later, as I'll be going on at least one multi-day ride this spring which might involve a small river or two. Oh, and also, I used the search function with a bunch of related terms and came up empty.
All the carb vents can be plugged with vacuum caps and the breather should pipe itself into the air box. At least stock it does. For the air box just make sure the removable rubber parts are decently sealed. They come that way from the factory but the seal will be broken if they were ever removed from the box. Also make sure the rubber seal on the air filter access cover is intact.

The drum brake is just going to suck no matter what. You can buy grooved EBC shoes that are supposed to expel water and cool better. I had a set in mine but the material was so hard it glazed the drum surface and made a very loud squealing sound every time I applied them. I then replaced them with an OEM Honda set to stop the noise. Since you live in the country and don't have to worry about every pedestrian within a 5 block radius looking at you as you slow down for each intersection you're welcome to have them.

For the intake I'd just build a snorkel as you stated and attach it to the stock intake somehow. That thing is right under the seat though so I don't know how deep you plan on getting. At that point maybe you'd need to worry about fitting a snorkel to your own helmet.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:56 PM   #7329
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Does anybody know of a Hagon shock distributor that handles the XL600R here in the US? Any tips on ordering from the UK?
It looks like Hagon is the only one doing shocks for these bikes anymore.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:04 PM   #7330
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Does anybody know of a Hagon shock distributor that handles the XL600R here in the US? Any tips on ordering from the UK?
It looks like Hagon is the only one doing shocks for these bikes anymore.
We just had a discussion on this a few pages back, if you tell them the specs they should make them. I've been considering it.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:40 AM   #7331
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We just had a discussion on this a few pages back, if you tell them the specs they should make them. I've been considering it.
Do you just order from UK?
The unit with remote preload adjuster looks sweet.
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Reposado1800 screwed with this post 04-15-2013 at 06:49 AM
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:48 AM   #7332
crobox
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I think I finally got the jetting right. I got a small package from JetsRUs last week (with the correct style pilot jet), installed 60/115/112, and for the first time the bike had no stumbling issues. Yay.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:05 PM   #7333
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Do i have to drain the oil when i when I put in the new stator? or can I just lay the bik on it's side?? the oil is fresh with only about 100 miles on it.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:10 PM   #7334
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Originally Posted by crobox View Post
....multiple deep river crossings these guys are doing, and it's got me thinking...

....
- And the big concern, the air intake. I realize its already pretty high in the bike, but im curious about whether its possible to improve its resistance to sucking in water. .... then where to route the air intake? I don't think it would be possible to go forward on the bike, under the tank. I guess it could theoretically go back, under the seat, and up behind the rider, especially if it could hide behind a top-box. Or maybe I'm just being ridiculous here.
It might be ridiculous yet still intriguing. Assuming that the air box is tightly sealed and the only intake port is the stock port under the seat, then could you build a custom seat with a cut-out in the middle (like an inverted valley) running up the middle of the seat to the fuel tank and then a formed tube that connects to the stock intake of the air box and fit inside the before mentioned seat cut-out/valley and exit near the gas cap. Hence the air intake will be raised near the level of the gas cap. Assuming this could be fabricated, I think there would be two draw backs.
1) a more convoluted air intake system will most likely hurt power output.
2) you will lose some seat padding in critical areas.

Let us know what you come up with?
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:38 PM   #7335
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Do i have to drain the oil when i when I put in the new stator? or can I just lay the bik on it's side?? the oil is fresh with only about 100 miles on it.

Just lean it over. There is very littl oil in the stator anyway.
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