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Old 04-26-2013, 07:20 AM   #7396
Reposado1800
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Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
Hate that when that happens.

When in doubt add lots of heat.
I got a dremel carbide burr to reach in there and a diamond coated sawzall blade. Tonight see what happens. No heat as I dont want to risk fire.
Editing this post I would like to add the carbide burr works good at cutting a deep gouge into the race. I should have them out tonight.
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Reposado1800 screwed with this post 04-26-2013 at 10:38 AM
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:25 AM   #7397
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Compression is the first wakeup call for sure on these big singles. I have run Wiseco 11:1, 102.4mm which worked well, though it actually calculated out to 10:1 when measured on install which is fine because that is about the upper limit for fuel availability.

After a crankshaft breakage issue I opted for an XR crank which necessitated a new piston. I went with a JE 11:1, 102mm which also calculated out to 10:1. It also works well and runs great, but it is noisier than the wiseco till it warms up.
What is the story on installing an XR crank? Longer stroke sounds like a great idea.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:12 AM   #7398
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Originally Posted by Homerb View Post
Well I couldnt wait any longer. After rebuilding my XL600RMG from the ground up I took it around the block half a dozen times today to get it hot and check for oil leaks. Front brake yet to be fitted and back brake shoes still bedding in, but, holy shit, how hard does this thing go???!!!
Running 0.5mm oversize 11:1 Wiseco piston, Kibblewhite valves, guides and springs, and a Staintune muffler from a VTR1000. Goes much, much better than before the rebuild. Clutchless wheelies in first and second gear. I was wondering if any other XL600 owners here are running the 11:1 Wiseco piston and if you've found it made a huge difference to the power the engine produces.
I'm in the middle of putting a ported head with a stage two camshaft on top my Wiseco 11:1 piston. Unfortunately I've run into some stripped cylinder head bolt threads. I've read some suggestions about Heli-Coils and the like so I'll have to figure out what will work best for me.

Nothing ever goes as planned when working on FOBs...

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Old 04-26-2013, 09:47 AM   #7399
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Carter,

Are you talking about the bolts that thread into the cylinder that are stripped? If so I have had very good results by Heli-Coiling the offending holes. Although I have had my machinist do this procedure on his mill so that the inserts end up in the correct place. Even the holes that have the locating dowels. Both on the early XR600/XL600 (8mm) and the later XR600/XR650l (9mm) inserts.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:57 AM   #7400
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Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Carter,

Are you talking about the bolts that thread into the cylinder that are stripped? If so I have had very good results by Heli-Coiling the offending holes. Although I have had my machinist do this procedure on his mill so that the inserts end up in the correct place. Even the holes that have the locating dowels. Both on the early XR600/XL600 (8mm) and the later XR600/XR650l (9mm) inserts.
Yes, the threads that are set into the cylinder jug. Thanks for the tip about having the machinist do it. I take it my best bet is to remove the jug and set it up on a drill press to ensure the insert takes straight and true. Can you reuse the cylinder base gasket or should I get one of those on order?
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:07 AM   #7401
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If it comes off clean you can use it.

An easy way to make sure the hole is lined up with the drill chuck is to put a bolt with the head cut off into the hole, chuck it and then clamp down the cylinder.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:28 PM   #7402
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Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
Hate that when that happens.

When in doubt add lots of heat.
Well you were right. I had to bust out the mapp gas. A combo of the dremel, sawzall and heat got them out without any damage to the bearing recess. The heat is what really gets them to slide out after being weakened.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:28 PM   #7403
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I had to repair the cylinder head bolt hole on my cylinder too. I went to my industrial supplier and after some searching we found extra long heli-coils available. Otherwise they are only 12mm length.

I used the drill press as a bit holder and very carefully drilled and tapped the holes for the overlength inserts. It was very time consuming tapping because I would get about one turn of the tap cutting, then it would start to bind on the cuttings. I would then screw the tap back out, spray in cleaner and blow the holes and repeat the process as necessary. I finished it off with a bottoming tap and installed the inserts. They were long enough to be almost full depth of the hole.

Don't reuse the base gasket, that is the reason I was in there in the first place for a base gasket leak. Honda recommends a dab of Hondabond on the base gasket where the case halves join.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:40 PM   #7404
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What is the story on installing an XR crank? Longer stroke sounds like a great idea.
I thought it would be worth trying an XR crank since both cost the same on eBay. The only downside I found is that you have to use an XR piston too. I already had a Wiseco 102.4 mm XL cylinder that I was happy with. I checked with Wiseco and rings were back ordered and would be a long time so that was the clincher.

I got a 102 mm XR piston from JE (the largest XR piston I could find) and an XR crank. I bored out a spare XL cylinder I had to fit. I used the XL chain and sprockets and other stuff since it was all in good shape still. I ended up at a calculated displacement of 654 cc and 10:1 compression ratio.

I also put on the XR flywheel which is lighter with the thinking that the slower revving of the long stroke could be offset by a lighter flywheel. I seemed to work, I notice no slower revs, in fact it seems even quicker than before.

While the case was split I put in NX tranny gears to get a higher fifth and closer 2nd.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:01 PM   #7405
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Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
I thought it would be worth trying an XR crank since both cost the same on eBay. The only downside I found is that you have to use an XR piston too. I already had a Wiseco 102.4 mm XL cylinder that I was happy with. I checked with Wiseco and rings were back ordered and would be a long time so that was the clincher.

I got a 102 mm XR piston from JE (the largest XR piston I could find) and an XR crank. I bored out a spare XL cylinder I had to fit. I used the XL chain and sprockets and other stuff since it was all in good shape still. I ended up at a calculated displacement of 654 cc and 10:1 compression ratio.

I also put on the XR flywheel which is lighter with the thinking that the slower revving of the long stroke could be offset by a lighter flywheel. I seemed to work, I notice no slower revs, in fact it seems even quicker than before.

While the case was split I put in NX tranny gears to get a higher fifth and closer 2nd.
If I ever have to replace the crank in the future I will go that route. I think the XL's will slowly die off in time but the XR's will live forever.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:25 PM   #7406
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XL/XR, not much difference really. They sold the XR more years in america so there is more of them.

I was quite happy with the XL overbore motor and I wouldn't have changed a thing except my crankshaft broke. Then I started thinking what if....
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:27 PM   #7407
Carter Pewterschmidt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
I had to repair the cylinder head bolt hole on my cylinder too. I went to my industrial supplier and after some searching we found extra long heli-coils available. Otherwise they are only 12mm length.

I used the drill press as a bit holder and very carefully drilled and tapped the holes for the overlength inserts. It was very time consuming tapping because I would get about one turn of the tap cutting, then it would start to bind on the cuttings. I would then screw the tap back out, spray in cleaner and blow the holes and repeat the process as necessary. I finished it off with a bottoming tap and installed the inserts. They were long enough to be almost full depth of the hole.

Don't reuse the base gasket, that is the reason I was in there in the first place for a base gasket leak. Honda recommends a dab of Hondabond on the base gasket where the case halves join.
Thanks for the tip. I think I have a spare base gasket hanging around anyway.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:39 PM   #7408
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Carter, am I mistaken or is the photo deceiving? It looks like your right exhaust valve spring might be upside down.
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:26 AM   #7409
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Learn something new everyday.

I pulled the shock spring off the shock to see how the shaft and bumper are doing and found that the 4 position adjuster at the bottom of the shock sets compression damping and rebound damping. I did not know that. I thought it was rebound only. Good new is the shock is working great after all these years.
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Old 04-27-2013, 01:51 PM   #7410
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100+ miles since the strange noise, no re-occurrence. WTF! The guy at the shop said he never heard any of his RFVCs doing that over the years, So I guess I'll just ride it.

Is it possible my oil pump is starting to fail?
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