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Old 05-26-2013, 09:51 PM   #7741
m2h
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
No not too bad. Take the jug to a machine shop and they put it in a jig and use the mill to drill it out. They can even save the threads most of the time.
Very True! And while its in the shop my advice is to get the guy to recoil all the 6mm and the one 8mm thread in the top of the head as well! I did all my 6mm ones recently and while torqueing up the 8mm one I stripped the bastard Not a huge job but f*#@ing annoying!!! Especially as this rebuild has been going on far far to long! Am just about there tho


Have been wanting to put up some piks but not sure how to go about it, any advice?
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:36 PM   #7742
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http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919

You want option two.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:40 AM   #7743
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I couldnt get the photobucket photos to load, so went with smugsmug and alls ok.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:59 AM   #7744
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Head Bolts

When reinstalling the head bolts don't oil them; use anti-seize compound!
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:30 PM   #7745
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I couldnt get the photobucket photos to load, so went with smugsmug and alls ok.

Thanks. Will give it go.
m2h
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:53 PM   #7746
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I use photobucket myself, just copy and paste the direct link and it shows full size. I don't know how to do the thumbnail thing though.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:05 PM   #7747
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I know this question has been asked a thousand times, but I'm finally able to get back to chasing down the spark issue on my '87 XL600R, and the last link I had to an Arrowhead CDI for an XR600 shows that it is now discontinued. What are the latest options for CDI replacement/repair?

I think I'm also just going to swap in a Ricky Stator while I'm buying parts.

This is how she was last I left her...

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Old 05-27-2013, 05:08 PM   #7748
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When reinstalling the head bolts don't oil them; use anti-seize compound!
The Honda manual days, for the cylinder bolts I remember at least, to use motor oil on the threads. When they're giving me specific torque values, I'm going to do as the engineers say!
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:10 PM   #7749
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Been a bit of discussion recently about timing chains etc. Am reassembling my '86 at the moment and found that I too have "stretch" Cash being short am going to live with it. The marks on the top gear aren't majorly out and was wondering what effect on performance it might have. I don't intend to be ringing the poor old thing as I just want it for commuting. The tensioner and guides are in good order. The bottom drive gear is "obsolete" so what is the alternative ? XR one maybe?
Devised a means of holding crankshaft still while fiddling with valve setting etc may be of some use. Only if you have right side case off unfortunately! First time pik insertion from Smugmug, thanks for the help with that guys.



It worked too! You may have to use another hole and make the plate to fit whatever basket slot is closest.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:26 PM   #7750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2h View Post
Been a bit of discussion recently about timing chains etc. Am reassembling my '86 at the moment and found that I too have "stretch" Cash being short am going to live with it. The marks on the top gear aren't majorly out and was wondering what effect on performance it might have. I don't intend to be ringing the poor old thing as I just want it for commuting. The tensioner and guides are in good order. The bottom drive gear is "obsolete" so what is the alternative ? XR one maybe?
Devised a means of holding crankshaft still while fiddling with valve setting etc may be of some use. Only if you have right side case off unfortunately! First time pik insertion from Smugmug, thanks for the help with that guys.



It worked too! You may have to use another hole and make the plate to fit whatever basket slot is closest.
M2H
A stretched chain retards the cam timing obviously. I've slotted my cam sprocket to be able to do this . I'm at -6 degrees now. This takes off the bottom end and adds to the top end.
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:59 PM   #7751
Reposado1800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk the Jerk View Post
I know this question has been asked a thousand times, but I'm finally able to get back to chasing down the spark issue on my '87 XL600R, and the last link I had to an Arrowhead CDI for an XR600 shows that it is now discontinued. What are the latest options for CDI replacement/repair?

I think I'm also just going to swap in a Ricky Stator while I'm buying parts.

This is how she was last I left her...

Just recently I feplaced the CDI with a unit from regulatorrectifier.com. I also replaced the pulse generator and stator. $65 for cdi, $42 for PG and $150 for Ricky stator.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:44 PM   #7752
Aaron from Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
Just recently I feplaced the CDI with a unit from regulatorrectifier.com. I also replaced the pulse generator and stator. $65 for cdi, $42 for PG and $150 for Ricky stator.
Sweet! Thanks man. How did that work out for you? What were the symptoms before?
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:49 AM   #7753
m2h
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joexr View Post
A stretched chain retards the cam timing obviously. I've slotted my cam sprocket to be able to do this . I'm at -6 degrees now. This takes off the bottom end and adds to the top end.

Thanks Joe, I figured that but in my case would I even notice!! .
At my age would I care, I just want to save gas (on the bike I mean of course) Have heli-coiled the 8mm thread I stripped and replaced the valve cover so I cant be bothered slotting the cam gear now.
Will put up some more piks soon now I know how!
Thanks for the reply
M2H
OOPS double signature!!
Found out how to do that too!!
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:49 AM   #7754
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Altering cam timing is an old hot rodders trick. I think there is enough flexibility in the engine design and the mild cam that Honda uses to allow for a couple degrees here and there difference.

As far as the timing sprocket availability, you can use all XR stuff if you need to. I wouldn't mix and match the old and new style parts, but the entire assembly is interchangeable.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:31 AM   #7755
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I would never use a timing chain where both slashes are not visible from the "deck." I think that is what the manual gives as an indicator of a too stretched chain.
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