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Old 06-28-2013, 07:51 AM   #8101
Reposado1800
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Location: 5th and Main
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookfar View Post
Do you have the link for the site?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-MOTOSP...477ef8&vxp=mtr
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:01 AM   #8102
Torminator NOR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
I got one of the kick ass seat covers from Thailand that has the XL and Honda on the cover. I dropped it off at the upholstery shop to get it installed. Hopefully tomorrow I have a sweet seat! It came with a new strap too.
I did the same! It was the only place to get a original looking seat. Mine will be finished on tuesday. Was so happy when it also came with the strap :)
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:48 PM   #8103
RFVC600R
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: SAND LAND
Oddometer: 2,046
XRsonly quoted me at $350 for 4 new valves, two seats, lapping and broken bolt extraction. "We do those heads all the time! it's a piece of cake! Could even be less after we look at the head." They're also interested in my old XRsonly catalogs from the 1980s. Only a few more bucks to save up guys and you wont hear me bitching about valves and shit for a while (hopefully!).

I can't afford Engine Dynamics and they're too far away anyway. Bitching work I wish I had money for them.

I'm itching to ride..... I keep seeing pics of my bike in it's running state and I just wanna scream! First thing I'm gonna do is take make a video of my "Fun way to work" It has a wicked soft wash, a couple fun hill climbs, and speeding down dirt roads at 80 MPH Then it ends about a mile or two away from the front gate.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:06 AM   #8104
Reposado1800
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Location: 5th and Main
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My clutch had been a bit sticky so it was time to pull the cover and then the basket and get to filing the surface that contacts the plates. Much better. I should have done it a while ago. There is an error in the Honda Microfiche for part assembly. My bike has clutch nut, bendable tang, and then round washer which has writing on that and says on one side, "this side out". The micro fiche says nut, washer and then bendable tang. Not sure why Honda screwed that up.
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:09 PM   #8105
mcma111
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Location: San Francisco,Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
My clutch had been a bit sticky so it was time to pull the cover and then the basket and get to filing the surface that contacts the plates. Much better. I should have done it a while ago. There is an error in the Honda Microfiche for part assembly. My bike has clutch nut, bendable tang, and then round washer which has writing on that and says on one side, "this side out". The micro fiche says nut, washer and then bendable tang. Not sure why Honda screwed that up.

Honda later on deleted the washer with the tang.
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:28 PM   #8106
lookfar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
Cheers for that, ordered one for my XR600 (1988)

.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:06 PM   #8107
Reposado1800
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: 5th and Main
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookfar View Post
Cheers for that, ordered one for my XR600 (1988)

.
Look at this seat. Sweet.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:22 PM   #8108
brucifer
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Location: Eureka, Ca.
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Nice!
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:33 PM   #8109
lookfar
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Joined: Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
Look at this seat. Sweet.
Nice...
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:02 PM   #8110
davek181
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
Look at this seat. Sweet.
Looks good. I should get me one too.

looks a little taller compared to mine, did you add foam? Or maybe mine is broken by too many miles.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:06 PM   #8111
Reposado1800
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: 5th and Main
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No extra foam. I used to see new foam on ebay a long time ago. I wonder if anybody is making it anymore.
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:26 AM   #8112
mcma111
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Parts

Seat and speedometer in the flea market.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=899124
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:36 AM   #8113
Homerb
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Location: Toukley NSW Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
I guess I am reading my own wants/needs into this post. I strive for lightness and simplicity. I have long ago replaced my battery with a capacitor pack I built for both of the above stated reasons. The capacitor stores enough energy to initialize the signals, and the stator takes over from there.

I would run one light stock for pure simplicity of wiring and total reliability and redundancy. I would run the other off DC switched by a relay much like the kits mentioned are doing again using the capacitor to smooth the bumps in power. Both lights in this case would run with the engine only as there is no battery. I was also thinking of the standard XL battery with marginal reserve capacity.

In your case with extra battery power (and weight) the DC only makes sense. Just goes to show there is more than one way do do most things, and opinions abound as to the which is right way.
Hey Davek, lve got a question for you. Ive just bought a twin headlight fairing to fit to my XL600RMG.
One of these.

It runs two H4 60w/55w Xenon halogen bulbs. Im wondering if l have to upgrade my stator to power the lights, or is there a way around it? Bearing in mind my bike has electric start, and runs a 14 ah battery. According to my manual, my alternator produces 14 amps at 7000rpm, and 5 amps at 1300 rpms.Also Im not sure if the higher power aftermarket stators like the Ricky Stator will fit/work in the RMG.
Im afraid lm a complete electrical moron, and you seem like you know these systems backwards so any help would be appreciated.
thanks
Homer

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Old 06-30-2013, 12:43 PM   #8114
davek181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homerb View Post
Hey Davek, lve got a question for you. Ive just bought a twin headlight fairing to fit to my XL600RMG.
One of these.

It runs two H4 60w/55w Xenon halogen bulbs. Im wondering if l have to upgrade my stator to power the lights, or is there a way around it? Bearing in mind my bike has electric start, and runs a 14 ah battery. According to my manual, my alternator produces 14 amps at 7000rpm, and 5 amps at 1300 rpms.Also Im not sure if the higher power aftermarket stators like the Ricky Stator will fit/work in the RMG.
Im afraid lm a complete electrical moron, and you seem like you know these systems backwards so any help would be appreciated.
thanks
Homer
The first thing to do is to put the headlight draw in a reference we can understand in relation to the bike. Since Amps=Watt/Volts, let's start there. We will take the highest headlight load, 60 watts and divide by system voltage which for simplicity we will use 12 volts even. You get a headlight draw of 5 Amps, since there are two of them 10 amps total.

The bike will produce 14 amps at 7000 RPM so that would be more than enough. It produces 5 amps at idle which is half what you would need for two 60 watt high beams, so it would have to use some battery power then.

The question then is where is the break even point? At what RPM does the system charge 10 amps? I don't know, but I suspect at normal cruising speeds it would be fine.

If you take charging voltage at 14 volts, your amp draw goes down but with the addition of taillight and meter lights you are right back up to ten amps again. You could convert those to LED to save even more power by simply changing bulbs if you wished. Same for signals, I have converted all my lights except headlight and front turn signal bulbs. ( I like to be seen turning left in front of traffic, in fact I have upgraded the front signals to 20 watt)

For wiring simplicity and the desire not to hack the original harness I would run one headlight off the existing wiring and switch the other one from that light via relays hooked directly to the battery. There were some relay kits earlier in the thread that you can get to make your life even simpler. I would use the one headlight model and power the second light with it. I might also put a on/off switch on the second headlight for times when you don't need two, like daytime on a backroad with no traffic.

I don't know these systems that well, I have never even seen a wiring diagram for an RMG, but I can imagine fairly well how they did things just from common sense and a working knowledge of Honda. I suspect the RMG is very similar in those respects to the XR650L we get here.

I hope I have cleared things up a little for you with my initial thoughts on your dilemma. I also suspect that if you did require a stator with more power after all, Ricky probably makes one, or someone does, but I think I would try it stock first to see.

Dave
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:14 PM   #8115
crobox
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Taos, NM
Oddometer: 312
Quote:
Originally Posted by m2h View Post
Hey Christian,
Just got round to reading the thread again Looks like you had a great trip!! Bike looks good too, obviously worked pretty well for you.
A question : How did your oil cooler work? Don't know what temp's you were riding in so it may not have been too noticeable if it was cooler.
Have found a cooler off a Kawasaki that is about the same size that I am going to fit up before summer and wondered if you had a before and after comparison?
Cheers
Hey there M2H-
I'm sorry to tell you that I never ran this bike WITHOUT an oil cooler, so I can't tell you much about "before vs. after". I can say that the bike never felt hot, even when I was occasionally sitting in construction-site traffic. Sometimes I's reach my hand down behind the oil cooler while riding to see if I could feel hot air behind it, but I never really did (although I was always wearing gloves).
Cheers,
Christian
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