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Old 07-04-2013, 09:05 PM   #8161
mcma111
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Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
Anybody remember how much spring preload is needed for the kickstarter spring?

Trying to mount the kicker shaft?

The hook of the spring goes in the rectangular hole, with the spring in the hole and with kick lever on the shaft you pull the shaft out just a bit, rotate it CCW about 1/4 turn and then stuff it in and release.
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:40 PM   #8162
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Pissed xl together, but won't start now

So, I got everything in new, and took the cylinder and head to engine dynamics to get sorted. Put everything back together by the book, which was in the almost 100 degree heat for 5 hours today and nothing. tried kicking it on different settings of choke, adjusted the idle mixture screw to 1 3/4 of a turn out, and tried different settings for the idle speed screw. got it to cough and attempt to start once. But that was it. I have spark, I have great compression, I have gas going into the engine and coming out, but I have no combustion. Any suggestions? One thing I did notice, is that I have an intermittent spark at times, I have a new stator in it. and everything else checks out as good, but it might just be me holding the spark plug and trying to kick start at the same time.
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Old 07-05-2013, 03:06 AM   #8163
Homerb
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If youve got an intermittent spark and a new stator, my moneys on your cdi.
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:09 AM   #8164
davek181
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Originally Posted by dgman1991 View Post
So, I got everything in new, and took the cylinder and head to engine dynamics to get sorted. Put everything back together by the book, which was in the almost 100 degree heat for 5 hours today and nothing. tried kicking it on different settings of choke, adjusted the idle mixture screw to 1 3/4 of a turn out, and tried different settings for the idle speed screw. got it to cough and attempt to start once. But that was it. I have spark, I have great compression, I have gas going into the engine and coming out, but I have no combustion. Any suggestions? One thing I did notice, is that I have an intermittent spark at times, I have a new stator in it. and everything else checks out as good, but it might just be me holding the spark plug and trying to kick start at the same time.
Have you tried a new or unfouled spark plug? If they get fouled for any reason, even a new plug, you won't ever get them back by clening or anything. Kick it over several times with the plug removed and full throttle to clear it out and try to start it then with no choke at first.

Often for a spark test I attach a jumper lead to the spark plug and connect the other end to ground so you don't have to hold it against the head and kick and look at the same time.

If spark is intermittent, time to check all the components and connections. All can be tested except the CDI with just a multimeter.

If you decide you have spark a shot of fuel in the intake will test if the carb is functioning or not. If it pops and dies then it is not getting fuel.

Was the bike running fine before repair? If so, what happened?
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:29 PM   #8165
Carter Pewterschmidt
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:09 PM   #8166
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Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
Should be able to check it at the pulse generator connection. According to the wiring diagram, power leaves the stator assembly, goes to the CDI unit then to the pulse generator, then to the ignition coil if the pulse generator signals and the CDI is functional.
On the stator coil the manual refers to a test on stator coil. Lightning coil had continuity but not the exciter coil between the pink/yellow wire and ground. Thats the problem maybe? Also checked my used replacement stator coil with the same result.
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:38 PM   #8167
Aaron from Texas
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Originally Posted by dgman1991 View Post
...but it might just be me holding the spark plug and trying to kick start at the same time.
Best method I found was just zip tying the spark plug to the header. Then it's nice and stable, and you should be able to crank the engine over by hand while holding the compression release and be close enough to see a spark.
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Old 07-05-2013, 03:03 PM   #8168
dgman1991
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Dave-
The bike died before repairs. Turns out that the PO had neglected the bike and ridden it into the ground. So when I got it, it died after 200 mild miles of fun. I just had the engine out and rebuilt the entire top end. It would start perfectly before death though. My neighbor has offered to look at it tomorrow so maybe we can solve the mystery then. How do you test a CDI then if not with a multi-meter?
Thanks
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:45 PM   #8169
davek181
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Originally Posted by dgman1991 View Post
Dave-
The bike died before repairs. Turns out that the PO had neglected the bike and ridden it into the ground. So when I got it, it died after 200 mild miles of fun. I just had the engine out and rebuilt the entire top end. It would start perfectly before death though. My neighbor has offered to look at it tomorrow so maybe we can solve the mystery then. How do you test a CDI then if not with a multi-meter?
Thanks
The CDI is a solid state device. The easiest diagnosis is to prove all inputs and wiring. If all else is good, then it might be bad.

Check your resistance values through all components as defined in the manual. I prefer to test them under load too, in this case voltage when cranking. The stator ignition output should be 30-50 volts A/C. Voltage then goes through the CDI to the pulse generator. If the pulse generator returns a signal the CDI will trigger the coil causing spark.

The bike ran before death so I am suspect of connections or broken wiring if no spark. Use a known good spark plug.

Open the fuel bowl drains to be sure you are getting fuel to the carbs, not that a needle and seat stuck. Is the fuel fresh, I have had cars that have sat for a while that just won't run on the old fuel.
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:18 PM   #8170
Reposado1800
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The cam timing could be off a tooth. Check wires to coil and make sure they are not reversed.
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:31 PM   #8171
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The round mirrors are awesome. I can actually see out of them.
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:57 PM   #8172
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:01 PM   #8173
Reposado1800
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Well I was dicking around with the kickstarter to figure out how much preload is needed and trying not to put too much or too little. Like a true genius I found... The right amount of preload is the amount it takes to get the stupid kicker to return by itself after pushing down. There is almost no way to put too much as it will cause interference with the metal stopper if you wind too far. Sooo, the lesson for today is just wind it up until it does what it is supposed to do.
I actually love the kicker now. Less weight than estart and always starts on first or second kick with that stupid kicker compression release disabled.
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:09 PM   #8174
MartiniUp
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Your welcome.

On another note, after 7 months work, two rebores, two conrod kits and too much money, my XL has finally been returned to its natural environment!


It was cold, wet, raining and I had an absolute blast!
I can't believe how much I missed riding in the bush. Never again will I leave myself without a bike, ever.
You need to route the front brake cable properly before it gets ripped off. Takes about three minutes.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:36 PM   #8175
crobox
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I'd like to raise my bike a little bit, because I'm tall, and also because I think it will look good.

However, I have no complaints at all about the suspension front or rear, and I don't want to spend money doing it.

I know how to handle the rear; make a new "dogbone" connecting link, a little shorter than stock. I might take the time to measure all the link distances and draw it up on the computer to figure out how much shorter to make it for 'X' number of inches taller.

However I do not know how to handle the front (and in fact there may not be any good way to do it). Ideas I've had are:
Just loosen the triple clamps and lower the forks (this is very limited; I don't think I'd wanna go any lower than about half-bite on the top triple. I'm sure some would even say that that is crazy)
Machine a pair of "extenders" out of aluminum. These would have a 39mm OD male solid round top section (to fit in the triple clamps), and then a 39mm OD female section at the bottom with a slit up the side and a pair of bolts to act as a clamp (see simple drawing)



Machine new axle clamps which would clamp to the bottoms of the forks, moving the axle down an inch or two.

All of these would create problems with the speedo cable and the brake line, but I guess that's the nature of extending your forks.

I guess the other idea is just to buy a set of forks from another bike (I seem to remember that XR400 forks would work ??), but I do not want to get into changing triple clamps and front wheels. I've done a lot of work on my wheel (OK, paint is not THAT MUCH work, but it was a PITA and I don't wanna do it again!) and I also made a fork brace (which I don't wanna re-make) and my headlights mount to the bottom triple clamp, etc. etc. Machining the clamping bores on the triple clamps to go 1 or 2 mm bigger wouldn't be a big deal, I don't think, if there was something that could work.

I welcome any and all thoughts on the above musings....

Thanks,
Christian
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