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Old 10-03-2007, 10:56 AM   #151
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Thumb Last day in Loreto

It rained all day our last day in Loreto. I guess it only rains about 3 times a year. People were out all over driving around and checking out all the flooding. Here are a few pics of our last day.

What is this thing?

We are out of here. Shooting for Scorpion Bay...
Have a dream, live it. Set a goal, achieve it.

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Old 10-03-2007, 11:01 AM   #152
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You two really seem to have a travel pattern down and mesh well. Thanks for the 10th time for sharing and keep up the great pics.

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Old 10-03-2007, 08:02 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by rokklym

Anyways, looking like life on the road is treating you two good!

That place in Mulege looks great, i'll be writing that place down for future reference.
Hey rokklym. Yes, almost two months on he road and life is good and Mulege is a great spot and recommended for sure.

Originally Posted by clarkebd
You two really seem to have a travel pattern down and mesh well. Thanks for the 10th time for sharing and keep up the great pics.
Hey clarkebd. For sure, after almost two months we are starting to really click. Sometimes I can't believe how great of a riding partner Heidi has turned out to be. And thanks again, we never get tired of hearing replies like yours
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Old 10-03-2007, 08:06 PM   #154
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Eek Scorpion Bay:

We headed out of Loreto around 10:00 AM just after the rain stopped. We were prepared to stay another night if the rain continued but luckily it stopped early enough for us to have plenty of time to make Scorpion Bay. We are taking the southern route. It’s the longest route but also the easiest with only 30 miles of dirt road to contend with. Still, 30 miles of Baja dirt road can be a killer, 2-up on a Harley Davidson Sportster packed with full camping gear and supplies to last for two years of travel.

Getting out of town was a challenge, flooded roads, huge pot holes, slippery mud and tight morning traffic. Every large flooded section I just hoped we wouldn’t fall into a big hole. We didn’t and made it out of town in tact.

Riding south from Loreto we came across several road sections that were flooded. Usually there was a dirt path on the side that paralleled the main road which was dry, or mostly dry. I was wishing we had our dual sport knobby tires on at this point. In Arizona we elected to just go with street tires because of the longer expected wear. I first thought we would buy a knobby near the Mexican border and haul it but decided against it because of our already heavy load.

We gassed up at Ciudad Insurgencia and stopped for a cappuccino. It was one of the best cappuccinos we have ever had. What a surprise, it was extra large for about $2.20. This would have been close to five bucks in the US and for sure not as good.

It’s about 100 miles to Scorpion Bay from this gas stop. If we want another gas stop we will have to go past the dirt road turnoff to Scorpion Bay for about 5 miles.

At first the road is mostly straight and in pretty good shape, then the road turned to sections riddled with large deep pot holes. I kept it around 50 MPH, throwing the bike left, right, left, right, left, right. I finally get a double, double poke from Heidi telling me to slow down. I had to agree. I was doing good and only hit a couple small holes but if I did strike a big one it could have been bad. Not worth it. We haven’t even been on the road for two months yet. We have a long way to go.

We came to the dirt road turnoff to Scorpion Bay and decided to just continue down it, thinking 8 less liters of fuel will help us ride the bumps better.

Killer washboards, big rocks and sections of deep sand. I’m standing on the pegs manhandling the bike. I’m glad I grew up riding dirt bikes on dirt roads in the northern back country of Wisconsin. Without that experience we would be had. I was so concentrated on the road I didn’t even know Heidi was there. What a champ, she did admit during our second rest stop that the deep sand has kind of been freaking her out. She asked God to help us. We would go into a side slide. I would press heavy on the pegs and goose the throttle. This has to be disconcerting to a passenger and was. Heidi said she was getting a sick feeling in her stomach. I assured her I would slow it down more. After an hour of hard riding we made it 15 miles. Sweeet! Half way, we are going to make it. We decided to slow it down even more. The theme every time we mount the bike is ‘Safety” We always tell each other that no matter what happens, if we stay safe and healthy we are going to have a good time.

A few miles later a miracle appears, we couldn’t believe it, PAVEMENT! We stopped, toke a photo, cheered, hollered and in our minds, jumping up and down for joy. How could this be, no one told us anything about any pavement going into Scorpion Bay. The pavement looked completely new. Are we the first vehicle on it? Is this a mirage? It wasn’t and we continued into San Junico with ease. I kept it around 50 MPH, still in disbelief we were on pavement and savoring every mile.

In San Junico we had no idea where Scorpion Bay was but just continued like we knew what we were doing. I hang a left toward the water as soon as the pavement ends again. We take a right when the road T’s and ride along the coast. A mile later down a dirt path we see the sign “Scorpion Bay” YeHaa!

O Yeah!
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Old 10-03-2007, 09:13 PM   #155
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Looks like Heidi is enjoying a well deserved Tecate !

Looking forward to the next two years of traveling.....
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Old 10-04-2007, 04:41 AM   #156
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Glad to see you guys made it to Scorpion Bay
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:54 AM   #157
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happy birthday to you both!

a world of wonder as to where the next birthdays will be celebrated
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:10 AM   #158
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You're bringing back such memories...
Do a pop a wheelie!
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:48 AM   #159
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Hey Kids,

Happy Birthday to you both. Big birthdays are always a good time to reflect and you are in a great spot for that kind of thing. Better yet, now that you are a few weeks into a mind cleansing road trip. Glad that you like it there. Can't wait for more pics. You will be glad to know that you took the easy road. I have been having second thoughts about mentioning the coast road down from San Ingacio. It would have been brutal on the Sportster. That may be one reason that there is very little casual traffic through the area.

Take care of each other.

Warren and Carol
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Old 10-06-2007, 05:06 PM   #160
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Eh? A few more pics from Scorpion Bay.

We planned on pitching our tent but a palapa was open to rent, we took it. The palapas are a lot cooler inside during the day and have a great view of the bay.

The palapas are comfortable, sleep 6 or more people but are a little expensive. Bringing candles and bug spray greatly added to our comfort level.

We were inside playing cards one day when a bunch of powdery stuff falls from the palm branch ceiling. We looked around on the floor and found a small tarantula. The first night at the cantina there was a huge one crawling around the floor. I guess they’re common here and come out every night. Whoa!

This guy practically flew right at Heidi’s feet while we were eating some canned corn and tortillas. It didn’t want any food but sure seemed like it wanted something.

The surfing in the bay was poor but people were enjoying the water anyway.

We took a long walk along the coast. This stretch of coast is all under development for practically as far as you can see. We were told that a few years ago plots were selling for around $50K. Now the same plots are selling for $80K to over $100K. There is no AC power out here or anywhere in Scorpion Bay. Any power comes from diesel generators, solar cells, wind generators or some combination. All the water has to trucked in. I’m sure this is why the prices for lodging and camping are expensive.

Nice top.

Scorpion Bay and the village of San Juanico originated as and still is a fishing village.

The fishing boats head out while it is still dark and start returning between Noon and 2:00PM. Standing on the cliffs overlooking the bay we can see what looks like coral reefs but they are actually huge schools of fish. Sometimes the fishing boats will stop on their way out and fish at one of the schools. One morning Heidi and I saw over a dozen Dolphins surfacing around one of the fish schools. It was fun watching four or more Dolphins all surface in unison over and over.

It’s been great here but it’s time to go. We want to try to meet a couple that are heading to South America, 2-up on a motorcycle when they come through Mazatlan.

The 20 miles of dirt road south of town didn’t get any easier to ride. I kept the speed way down which made the washboards easier to handle but made deep sand seem more difficult. Sometimes in deep sand we would fishtail from one side of the road to the other before bringing it under control. I think the greater speed causing increased inertia make the wheels track better in deep sand. This was not fun with my precious cargo on back but I kept the speed down anyway. If we were going to dump it, it would be a slow dump.

During one rest stop this truck with locals stopped to make sure we didn’t need any help. That made us feel good knowing that even out here in the middle of nowhere we could get help if we needed it.

The scenery didn’t get any less beautiful on the way back either.

Making it back to Ciudad Insurgentes meant we would be pushing our bike close to its gas range limit. When we hit the paved road we turned left to La Purisima, the opposite direction we needed to go. The map said this town had gas.

La Purisima is an oasis in the middle of a barren desert. Miles of fig palm trees.

No one was around to sell us any gas. I asked a woman walking down the street if there is any gas in town. She said “NO” but described a place where we could buy some. Then a police officer drove by in a truck and said there was no gas in town and described a place 7 or 8 kilometers out if town where we could buy some. We didn’t have a good feeling about finding gas so we just turned it around and made a run for Ciudad Insurgentes. I had confidence we would make it if I kept our speed down and held the throttle steady.

There was still water on the road but a lot less then when we came through here four days ago. No problem.
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Old 10-06-2007, 05:45 PM   #161
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Wink La Paz:

Entering La Paz we tooled through town all the way to the malecon while scanning for any hotel that looked like it had good bike security and that we could afford. A few blocks from the malecon we found a hotel with a pool. The guy at the front desk said we could pull the bike right into the lobby. The price was $57. We decided to continue looking for something more in our price range. We find another place just off the malecon for $35 / night. The guy at the front desk there also said we could pull the bike right into the lobby. I said “If it will fit we will take it” We were too wide to fit and had to continue looking.

Heidi spotted a hotel on our way into town that looked like it had a secure court yard. We head back out of town a few miles and pull into Hotel Calafia. $33/night, king size bed, pool, restaurant and a very friendly feel. We are set :)

We made it into town too late to get our bike cleared through customs. The office is open from 8:00AM to 2:00PM Monday through Thursday. Bummer, we have to wait until Monday before we can cross to mainland Mexico on the ferry. We were hoping to meet up with Conchita and Brian in Mazatlan. If they are on schedule we will miss seeing them :(

Cruising into town we spotted a DHL office. We decided to send home our tent, bed rolls, one sleeping bag, my jeans and Heidi’s long sleeve hooded sweatshirt, about 12 pounds of load. It’s hard to describe the relief this brings. A lighter bike handles better, takes bumps and potholes better and is easier to push.

Before shipping the boxes out we had to get it cleared with Mexican customs. Luckily the customs office was just up the block.

I like the rule Horizonsunlimited teaches. Plan on achieving only one task per day while on the road. We got our one task accomplished and are now free to just enjoy the rest of the day, sweeet!

The malecon is only a few miles away from our hotel. We take off on foot and start enjoying the sights and culture of La Paz, Mexico.

Some day we dream of selling it all and cruising the Caribbean. Heidi’s dream boat is the cruiser on the left, mine is the ketch on the right. Our compromise is the triamaran in the middle. I could live with that….

La Paz

Heidi spots a bunch of Adventure motorcycles and some guys standing around them. We go over to take a photo.

I say “How are you guys doing?” “Where are you from?” I say “We are on our way to South America” they point to one guy, saying he rode down there. I ask if anyone is an ADVrider. I say “I’m cavebiker” One guy leaps forward with his hand out “I’m FlyingAvanti!” Unreal, this guy and his wife Sandy are like our heroes. They cruised, 2-up through Central America and South America and posted one of the top Ride Reports on I have posted to his thread several times and we have e-mailed each other.

FlyingAvanti was full of life telling us all sorts of information about our route through Central and South America. He is super sincere and offered to help us in any way through e-mails and phone calls. The whole gang was warm and friendly. We talked for a long time. They are taking the ferry over to the mainland and heading to Copper Canyon next.

We felt like we met a legend and let me tell you, he surpassed all our expectations.

I asked if they are really advRiders.

I guess so….

Cappuccino on the malecon, nice…..

Hang in there. Much more to come……
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Old 10-06-2007, 08:46 PM   #162
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Wow...bumping into FlyingAvanti ! Guess it is a small world.
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Old 10-10-2007, 01:21 PM   #163
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Thumb A few more pics from La Paz.

Saturday we devote a day to a walking tour of the city while looking for a gym we lifted at 2 years ago.

After an hour of walking we finally find the gym. Since last time, they have cut the gym in half to accommodate internet terminals. The gym part looked so small and the music was blasting so loud we decided to skip it. We were getting enough of a workout with all the walking.

Saturday seems like the biggest day for shopping. We enjoy being part of all the action.

La Paz, Mexico

Cool La Paz dudes.

Sunday we head out for another mega walk. Less then two blocks from our hotel we see some adventure motorcycles. Heidi says “They have advRider stickers” I ask if they are adventure riders. I get a definite –Yes. I say “I’m cavebiker” Get this, I tell them we meet FlyingAdvanti yesterday. The guy says he has ridden with him and his brother worked with him. (Are we in the Twilight Zone?) Unreal!

We talk for a while about the rides we are on and some rides we have done. This couple did Panama with their daughter last year. How cool! And hope to do South America soon. We mentioned we did Scorpion Bay and had an H of a ride.

A few blocks later we stop for some breakfast. A couple of bikers were there eating. These guys were super nice and said they are from Cabo. After they left we were sure we have met one of the guys before, when we were on the ferry from La Paz to mainland Mexico two years ago with our jeep. To say this is a ‘small world’ doesn’t even come close to what we are thinking now.

We like La Paz…..

More to come……
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Old 10-10-2007, 02:10 PM   #164
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Cry Again, I’m not making any of this up!

La Paz – Mazatlan

We arrived at the ferry terminal early to clear customs for the motorcycle. One two three, everything went smooth. We are now set to enter mainland Mexico.

Across from the ferry terminal are a few taco trucks. Antijitos Juanita. These are the best tacos de carne asada we have had so far.

The bike is staged to go into the ferry.

I have fun chitchatting and practicing my Spanish with the dock workers while I wait to board. Nice guys. They have me board last so I’m the first to exit when we arrive in Mazatlan.

I park the bike tight against the wall of the ship. The panniers are almost touching the wall with the bike leaning the other direction on the kickstand. I’m confident I have the bike secured for the 18 hour journey across the Sea of Cortez.

A new rule allows only one person per vehicle to enter the vehicle hold. While we were apart Heidi met Matt. Matt is from San Fransico and quit his job to travel to Columbia to be caretaker for his neighbor’s house there. It’s right on the Caribbean Sea. Matt is taking his time busing through Central America and learning Spanish along the way. He says we have a free place to stay in Columbia. How nice is that!

For $36 we rent a cabin on board with bunk beds, bathroom and shower, well worth it.

This is the ferry heading for Topolobampo . This is a much larger and more modern ship. Heidi and I enjoy the character and abundant outside deck seating of our smaller older ferry. The Topolobampo ferry has no outside seating and only a small amount of standing room on deck.

The wind was blowing hard and the ship was rocking. The map we have shows the ferry route heading almost straight toward the mainland then down the coast. This night we hugged the Baja coast to the end, then across to the mainland. I was thinking this was because of the heavy weather.

The boat was rocking big time. It was difficult walking around the ship. I had a hard time sticking the key into our cabin lock. While in our cabin two glasses flew off a table along with some other stuff. I’m having concerns about the bike. The vehicle hold is locked down until we dock in Mazatlan so there is nothing I can do to secure the bike better. I’m wishing I parked the bike leaning toward the wall and secured it with rope or chain to the wall. It’s not going to do any good to worry about the bike so we just enjoy the cruise, sitting on deck watching the sunset and the waves.

Enjoying the sunrise.

Pulling into Mazatlan.

Local fisherman coming in with their catch.


Heidi lines up with the on foot passengers to exit the ferry, I line up with the people waiting to go down into the vehicle hold. I have my fingers crossed.

I get down into the hold and see the bike upright on its kickstand but in a slightly different spot. S, it fell over. I knew it. I immediately scan over the bike to look for damage. The left front blinker was bent back, some rubber was ripped on the left foot peg, the handlebars were bent back and the steering column was cockeyed. I proceed to straighten the blinker. Good, no problem. I raise the handlebars, they raise way too easy. The bolts holding down the handlebars must have loosened over the last two months of riding. The handlebars were not bent, thank goodness. I’m sure the loose bolts saved the handle bars, YES. After tightening down the bolts I press the front wheel up against the wall of the ship and crank on the handlebars to straighten the steering. After several attempts I get the steering straight. Woosh, The bike lives!

Heidi and I spent over three weeks in Mazatlan two years ago while we were touring Mexico. We like Mazatlan. We tool up and down the malecon checking out several hotels, all expensive. Next we head to Hotel Del Sol, the same place where we stayed two years ago. Super, we get a large room with kitchenette, pool and a quiet courtyard offering great bike security. We pay for two nights.

Heidi didn’t sleep much on the ferry ride over so she settles into a well deserved nap. I head out on the bike to look for an internet café. The temperatures were hot. The traffic was slow. The bike kills. I get to the side of the road and shift into neutral. Looking at the dash I see no neutral light. Someone posted on saying that the circuit breakers on Harley Davidson motorcycles reset in about 5 seconds. I stare at the dash lights. A couple seconds later the neutral light pops on. I hit the starter. The bike fires right up. Wow! This is huge. I replaced the ignition circuit breaker with a fuse, it can’t be that because fuses don’t reset. Any other possible problem, ignition sensor, ignition module, ignition coil would not cause the lights to go out. IT HAS TO BE THE MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER! I’m not sure where this circuit breaker is but I need to replace it, ASAP. I am one happy dude, knowing I have a solid idea of what the bikes problem is and we are in a comfortable city and won’t mind staying here until we get a new part.

I answer a few emails and upload some photos. A guy sits down to a terminal next to me. It’s Matt from the ferry. Unreal! Matt shows me some internet photos of the beach where he is going to caretake a house. Beautiful to say the least.

OK, again I’m not making any of this up. I hop on the bike and ride up the road toward our hotel. I pull into a store to buy some water and pop. After I get back on the bike, the ignition key will not turn to run, it only turns as far as accessory. I CAN’T BELIEVE THIS. I try for about a half an hour and no luck. I’m thinking it’s possibly the key, it looks pretty worn. I didn’t want to do it but I finally get out my tools and proceed to take part of the bike apart to retrieve the hidden key I have buried deep inside the bike. I should have taken a photo but I was just too frustrated. I get the key. I put the bike back together. I stick the key in the ignition. Same thing, it only turns as far as accessory. What is going on here? No one could have tampered with the bike while I was in the store. It was parked right in front of an all glass store front and I was only in there for a few minutes. No one could have tampered with the bike while I was in the internet café, the switch worked fine when I left there. What the heck!

I stay calm, thankful I’m only a few miles away from our hotel. I proceed to push the bike first along busy touristy store fronts then along the malecon. The temperatures were hot, the sun was blazing and I was sweating bullets. I’ve pushed many bikes many miles in the past but never a 1200 Harley Davidson half packed with gear. At this point I was glad I still lift weights and compete in marathon cross country races. I made it! The bike is not leaving the hotel in Mazatlan until I get this fixed. The adventure continues…….

Much more to come :)……………………
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Old 10-10-2007, 05:41 PM   #165
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I think you are onto something with that circuit breaker. The ignition sensor would not cut out the lights if it went bad. You are real close to getting that problem fixed. But keep in mind that something may be setting off that breaker. Maybe you should check the handlebar wiring that you did before you left. Or could that ignition switch have something to do with it?

I dunno nothing about Sportster igniton switches. Sounds like XL Forum time to me. They will have an answer for you.
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