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Old 10-06-2010, 12:59 PM   #1291
r3r3r
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I took the Hepco & Becker crash bars (AKA Engine Guards) off my NX650 after one ride with them banging into my knees.

I've posted them for sale in the FM. If anyone is interested here's a link to the ad: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...1#post14194621
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:37 AM   #1292
petros600
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Good price, here is another one for $109.40
http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_sectio...1988&fveh=3594


Quote:
Originally Posted by burbansk
Thanks Switch, Believe it or not I found a Honda dealer close to me ( Powers Edge Motorsports in Fremont, MI. 49412 ) Who said he could get it for $108.23 plus shipping. The part # is SKU 30410-MN9-791 Module, Ignition Control ( Shindengen ). Going to give it a shot. Will let you know what happens. Thanks again all for the info.
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:20 AM   #1293
Derekdirtking
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switch
Welding. Hold the pedal in the right position (make sure to put the screw in as it secures it laterally) and put 3-4 weld spots on the shaft-lever contact area. Don't overdo it as you might want to remove it at a later date.
Think this may be my temporary solution as i have access to a mig welder at work. Do you think with a minimum amount of tack weld it will hold out? im planning a small trip in few weeks and want to be sure its not gona break on me!
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Old 10-10-2010, 02:40 PM   #1294
switch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derekdirtking
Think this may be my temporary solution as i have access to a mig welder at work. Do you think with a minimum amount of tack weld it will hold out? im planning a small trip in few weeks and want to be sure its not gona break on me!
A friend's done over 5000km (2500+miles) this summer with a welded pedal. Three weld-points, covering something like 1/4-1/3 of the contact circle.
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:28 PM   #1295
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derekdirtking
Think this may be my temporary solution as i have access to a mig welder at work. Do you think with a minimum amount of tack weld it will hold out? im planning a small trip in few weeks and want to be sure its not gona break on me!

Unplug the CDI from the wiring harness before you weld on the bike. You don't want to fry the unit. I usually unplug everything I can before welding on a bike (regulator, stator, pulse generator, etc.), but I'm paranoid like that.
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:58 AM   #1296
switch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
Unplug the CDI from the wiring harness before you weld on the bike. You don't want to fry the unit. I usually unplug everything I can before welding on a bike (regulator, stator, pulse generator, etc.), but I'm paranoid like that.
I agree with the advice. I'd've done the same, but the mechanics who welded on my BMW (EFI, ABS, all that shmack) did it with only the battery leads removed (they welded the topcase support right on the bike). No damage. On my dommie they did the same (for centerstand/sideracks) with -again- just the battery leads out. Kinda makes you wonder if being paranoid is always good.
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:12 AM   #1297
McVick
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Ingenuity Needed!!

Ok, Replacing the fork seals.
Long story.... but I have managed to get the upper slider bushing nestled securily into its spot inside the top of the fork slider. Unfortunately I got myself all mixed up and forgot to install the fork tube first!

So now, I can not get it out sot that I can reassemble everything properly. It is stuck!

I have tried:
- a small right angle pick to pry it up from the bottom
- a slide hammer - but the hooks would not grip the bottom edge
- a gear puller - but the hooks would not grip the bottom edge either
- small pick or screw driver in from the top edge to try and fold the bushing in on itself but I don't want to damage the inside of the slider tube.

I NEED IDEAS OR A SOLUTION!

the bran new bushing is trashed already - I scrapped a bunch of teflon off it with slipping tools in the attempts to extract it. But, I already have a new one to go in.

A mechanic at a local shop suggested heating the slider tube but I'm not a real big fan of heating metal to get it to expand when your working with a finished piece.

HELP!!


Thanks
Brian
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:52 AM   #1298
Pablo83
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Brian, I'm surprised your slide hammer didn't work. After all, that's essentially the way you're supposed to get it out in the first place. The only thing I can think of is to get a couple different shapes of dental picks and try to work them in so you can pry one side up.
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Old 10-12-2010, 11:03 AM   #1299
McVick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
Brian, I'm surprised your slide hammer didn't work. After all, that's essentially the way you're supposed to get it out in the first place. The only thing I can think of is to get a couple different shapes of dental picks and try to work them in so you can pry one side up.
Thanks,
The slide hammer I have just has little hook attachments for the working end but they are not sharp enought to grip into the bottom edge of the bushing.
I suppose I could try grinding the hooks down to a more precise edge.

I'm also thinking of using a Dremel to delicately grind away at the bushing from the inside until it is thin enough that it collapses into itself easily.
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:03 PM   #1300
webmonstro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McVick
Thanks,
The slide hammer I have just has little hook attachments for the working end but they are not sharp enought to grip into the bottom edge of the bushing.
I suppose I could try grinding the hooks down to a more precise edge.

I'm also thinking of using a Dremel to delicately grind away at the bushing from the inside until it is thin enough that it collapses into itself easily.
Hi
When i replaced the fork seal on my xt350 i found the best way was to drill a small hole in it and used a stiff wire to pull it out
how about melting it with a torch ??
good luck
Nuno
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:08 AM   #1301
Bocephous
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Hi, all. If nothing comes up I should be purchasing an '88 NX650 tomorrow morning from Mark5PA. I sold my '08 Husky SM610 a week ago (and hit a deer with my FZ1) and wanted something affordable to replace the Husky. Very informative thread you've got here, and just wanted to say "Hello" before I start asking any questions. Have no fear, I will use the search option first .
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Old 10-16-2010, 05:43 AM   #1302
switch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bocephous
Hi, all. If nothing comes up I should be purchasing an '88 NX650 tomorrow morning from Mark5PA. I sold my '08 Husky SM610 a week ago (and hit a deer with my FZ1) and wanted something affordable to replace the Husky. Very informative thread you've got here, and just wanted to say "Hello" before I start asking any questions. Have no fear, I will use the search option first .
You'll be longing for the Husky. Dommies are great, but their old, calm engine simply doesn't deliver if you want instant roll-on.
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Old 10-16-2010, 01:54 PM   #1303
Bocephous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switch
You'll be longing for the Husky. Dommies are great, but their old, calm engine simply doesn't deliver if you want instant roll-on.
I had some bills to pay and didn't ride the Husky enough to justify having a part time toy of that value sitting in my garage. Paid the bills, and have enough to buy another older thumper, too. Just got back from my first shake down ride and I think it will fit the bill just right. Lotsa dirt roads in my area, and my commute to work is only about 21 miles each way on some nice back roads. If I feel the need for arm-stretching power I still have my FZ1 (being accessed as we speak due to a collision with a forest rat) and my Raptor.

Anyway, the only things I have planned for it are:

1. Figuring out a way to afix a spare Givi mounting plate I have to Marks homemade rack.

2. Getting some more aggressive knobbies when the tires that are on it wear out.

3. Maybe keep my eyes open for either an aftermarket shock or one of the shocks previously mentioned in this thread that fit it.

4. Ride the hell out of it.
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Old 10-17-2010, 05:22 AM   #1304
Derekdirtking
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switch
A friend's done over 5000km (2500+miles) this summer with a welded pedal. Three weld-points, covering something like 1/4-1/3 of the contact circle.
Job done, three small tack welds with the mig welder and its not moving anywhere the good thing is the welds can easily be grinded off if need be but as the engine was rebuilt by previous owner its something i dont have to be concerned about for a long time hopefully! thanks for the pointers guys. Now i can orginize a trip home for the weekend
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:24 AM   #1305
Derekdirtking
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cleaned and ready to go!
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