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Old 09-01-2007, 04:32 AM   #61
kellyk7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allgonoshow
Make yourself two, maybe three babies. .
It gets cold up there in Idaho doesn't it --- this is one way to tie the winter sport to the summer sport..

seriously - one advantage when they get older, and mom is about over your projects she always gives in when you say,, but it is bonding project for me and jr. honestly i really don't want to build another bike project..
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Old 09-02-2007, 11:37 PM   #62
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[QUOTE=KLboxeR]Great idea for a thread. I'll bet this one's going to be around a while

Some of my tricks:

Locking medical forceps are the shit.

They are called "hemostats."
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:01 PM   #63
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I don't warm my oil

I read a long time ago that the only benefit of warming the oil prior to changing is that it enables it to drain quicker. Since draining isn't usually the limiting factor, I quit warming it, surmising more oil will be in the pan and less in the internal nooks & crannies. Although I haven't compared the actual amount drained (warm vs cold), I have discovered the added benefit of an empty oil filter. Pulling an empty filter is much less sloppy than pulling one that's just been pressurized.
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:27 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guano11
I read a long time ago that the only benefit of warming the oil prior to changing is that it enables it to drain quicker. Since draining isn't usually the limiting factor, I quit warming it, surmising more oil will be in the pan and less in the internal nooks & crannies. Although I haven't compared the actual amount drained (warm vs cold), I have discovered the added benefit of an empty oil filter. Pulling an empty filter is much less sloppy than pulling one that's just been pressurized.

I have oil company chemist friend I've been meaning to ask about that. In the old, "straight weight" world, I can see that. But don't multi-vis oil THICKEN as they get hot?
fwiw, another reason, supposedly, is to get the contaminants back into suspesnion instead of laying in the bottom of the crankcase.
Nevertheless, I'm going "cold" from now on. One more benfit? NO BURNED HANDS!

Great thread, so far all my good ideas have been posted. I'll add:

I'm a big cream cheeze fan. I find the smaller (opposed to Cottage Cheese) Philly cream cheese plastic bins are great for parts. Pop the parts in and label the top with a Sharpie. Especially good for greasy parts like bearings and seals. Keeps dirt out.

Hemostats aren't the only medical tools that come in handy. I found a set of used dental pics one time at a discount tool store. These things are invaluable at lots of things from retrieving dropped bits from crevices to removing gaskets without tearing them.

I bought a giant-assed bin of cheapo Zip Ties a few years ago. For actual USE, I like Thomas and Betts nylon ones, but these cheapies are great for holding cables, wires, tubes, and fluid lines out of the way when working on the bike. Also holding up brake calipers when they wheels are off the bike.
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:48 PM   #65
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The only thing that gets THICKER with HEAT is, um....

[quote=dlearl476]But don't multi-vis oil THICKEN as they get hot?quote]

I don't think they actually THICKEN; rather, they just don't thin out as much as a straight weight, thereby maintaining viscosity performance across a broader range of temps. Anxious to hear what your chemist buddy has to say.
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Old 09-03-2007, 11:27 PM   #66
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For stubborn stripped screws on master cylinder covers, tap the end of the screwdriver lightly with a hammer. The screw then comes right out.

I use an impact driver driven by a 3lb deadblow hammer for removing all of my case fasteners. The one time I didn't, I stripped one.
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Old 09-04-2007, 01:24 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by praetorian
Not a trick so much as a "MUST HAVE" for working on the bikes at bike level. You can find these little ones all over, but this one also has a built in cooler that hangs under the seat for keeping your favorite frosty beverage close at hand.

I use my brother's keyboard stool, which looks the same as yours except it had a nice leather padded top. I wrapped a plastic bag around the leather to keep it from getting damaged.

I am going to buy some of those plastic drawer organizers and than go buy a couple of the most common nuts and bolts, so I don't have to go to the hardware store every time I need one.

I just heard about this trick for changing tires but have not done it. Put the rim inside a plastic garbage bag and than put the tire with intertube on. The plastic acts as a lubricant and makes the tire go on quick. Once on, pull the garbage bag out.

gatogato screwed with this post 09-04-2007 at 01:38 AM
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Old 09-04-2007, 02:26 AM   #68
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Quick rule of thumb: theres no such thing as an extra part. if it came off, it goes back on.
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Old 09-04-2007, 02:42 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by japan883
Quick rule of thumb: theres no such thing as an extra part. if it came off, it goes back on.
Doh! So that's why my bike won't run.

Here's an oldie but a goodie that I used last night. How do you get the spark plug down that deep, narrow hole without damaging it? All the spark plug sockets are too wide to fit. So you take a length of rubber hose large enough to fit over the tip of the plug and hold it securely. Then it's easy to lower the plug down the hole; a few twists gets it started on threads and a slight tug removes the hose. Torque it down and you're done.
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Old 09-04-2007, 02:54 AM   #70
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Grab an air dusting gun and jam it under your grips to remove and apply.
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Old 09-04-2007, 04:24 AM   #71
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Temporary Fuel Tank

To add to what KLboxeR (# 13 post) suggested this was my solution.

It seems when ever I work on my Translaps the tank always needs to be removed. This allowed me to fire it up for testing purposed and see what was going on under the tank with great access to the carbs, water hoses, radiators, air intake tunnel, etc.

It cost me nothing. I carefully cleaned the container, added a "O" ring under the cap, cut a small hole in the top to vent and refill, made the wodden mount, added a few zip ties. Test ride revealed 7 miles per bottle and I was able to see how much fuel was left. Elmer never leaked.


LOOSE PART ORGANIZER: I agree with xdbx (#59) There is no better way to remember and keep up with where bolts go than to screw them back into the correct part once disassembly has been performed. That is until you have taken apart your bike so many times that you have them memorized which is the coolest feeling of all. Photos are a great help to.
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:43 AM   #72
kellyk7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghouse_Riley
Doh! So that's why my bike won't run.

Here's an oldie but a goodie that I used last night. How do you get the spark plug down that deep, narrow hole without damaging it? All the spark plug sockets are too wide to fit. So you take a length of rubber hose large enough to fit over the tip of the plug and hold it securely. Then it's easy to lower the plug down the hole; a few twists gets it started on threads and a slight tug removes the hose. Torque it down and you're done.
this was the method we were taught in auto class, the nstructor told us that it allowed the spark plug to self align to the threads before ya drove it in and crossed everything up,

in 28 years I have never crossed up a set of threads, also I find fuel line works great for plugs with a screw top, it slips down over the porciline
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:09 PM   #73
Papa Dulce
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Tooth paste

If you have a older carb that won't stop leaking, use toothpaste to lap the needle and the seat. Obviously only works on the older carbs with metal seats and needles.

Speaking of float levels, anyone have a Amal concentric carb that leaks or runs lean while extended running on the main jet? Probably has the float level way off. Carefully knock the brass insert/valve seat up or down in the body of the float bowl until the edge of the float is even with the gasket surface in the valve closed position. Obscure trick and I don't know if the explination is clear. If you have the problem, pm me for a better explination.

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Old 09-08-2007, 06:05 PM   #74
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Have notseen this tip here. If it's 205 sorry.

I always have valve lapping compound in my toolbox.
put a dab on the head of phillips screws before removing them.

BTW...the Craftsman screw extractors are the tits
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&vertical=TOOL
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Old 09-09-2007, 07:57 AM   #75
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  • Whenever you are working on your handlebars or instrument area, take a thick terrycloth bath towel and drape it over the gas tank. When you drop a wrench or screwdriver, you won't ding the tank.
  • Aerosol can tops make great little containers for holding groups of nuts and bolts during maintenance.
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