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Old 08-01-2007, 11:16 AM   #1
lightsorce OP
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Eh? Klr Fork Oil

I just got back from the 'Garage' forum and they were talking about syringes to remove fork oil. How long does a KLR650 have before the real world owners need to change fork oil? I don't mind doing the necessary but I'd hate to do fluid changes until needed.
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Old 08-01-2007, 12:31 PM   #2
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I'm sure there are plenty of old KLR's running around with oem fork oil in them, however, there is a simple screw at the bottom of the forks to drain the oil. Then just pop the cap, and fill to your desired height (debatable). Quick and simple, just like everything else on the mighty KLR.
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:29 PM   #3
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i've heard many complaints that the OEM oil is "fish oil" and very light.

i'm running ATF in my forks
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightsorce
I just got back from the 'Garage' forum and they were talking about syringes to remove fork oil. How long does a KLR650 have before the real world owners need to change fork oil? I don't mind doing the necessary but I'd hate to do fluid changes until needed.
I would say at least every 2 years. You'll be amazed at the crap that gets past the seals.
Not bad on the KLR, drain plugs make it easy.
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:39 PM   #5
lightsorce OP
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Talking ATF Fluid?

I have had a suspicion that the specs for fluids and lubricants for motorcycles is sometimes deliberately made arcane by the manufacturers but that is one I've never heard before......
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Old 08-01-2007, 02:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixer
i've heard many complaints that the OEM oil is "fish oil" and very light.

i'm running ATF in my forks
ATF is awfully thin too . . . I'm running 20wt fork oil
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Old 08-01-2007, 04:01 PM   #7
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I swear the stuff that came out of mine at the first change was ATF. Plenty thin, dirty and with a decidedly reddish/muddy tint. That was with less then 10k miles on it.

Replaced with 15w FORK OIL Made quite a noticeable difference for the better.

I pull mine off the bike, open them up and let them drain inverted in a bucket for a few hours (as well as pumping them to get as much as possible out of the bottom through the drain plugs).
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Old 08-01-2007, 04:09 PM   #8
lightsorce OP
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Thumb KLR Fork Oil

Is it a tough job to take them off? If it involves a lot of effort I'd rather change the oil a few times to avoid taking the fork tubes off the bike.
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Old 08-01-2007, 05:12 PM   #9
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No, it is not a tough job to get them off. Just a matter of loosening the triple clamp bolts and they slide right out. Of course, you remove the front wheel beforehand. And break loose the fork caps before loosening the bottom triple clamp bolts. The top triple clamp bolts need to be loose so you can loosen the fork caps. The bottom bolts remain tight to hold the tube from spinning while you loosen the fork caps.
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:34 PM   #10
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What Trailryder42 said.

I'm anal when it comes to maintaining the bike. Pulling the forks gives me a good chance to look everything over, make sure they're properly drained of as much crap as possible and re-torque everything to spec.

Besides, I've discovered that wrenching on the machine is almost as satisfying as actually riding it.

The more I know every piece of the beast, the more confident I am rolling down the freeway at 75 or 30 miles from anywhere where I haven't seen another soul for an hour.
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:21 PM   #11
lightsorce OP
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Talking Forks on the Road

Yeah.... It seems like I have some previous experience with that feeling of "if you want it done right...". I am no wizard of the wrench but I can get it right when I try. I haven't wrenched on the suspension much but maybe it is time for me to get acquainted.
(If my evening postings are less focussed than my day ones, it is probably because I'm off this week and I tend to taste the Miller a bit at my brothers place...)
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:31 PM   #12
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ATF is *about* 7wt, altho i've heard some say that Mobil 1 i've slightly heavier.

OEM is suposed to be 10wt, but i doubt if it really is.

i'm #200 and not an aggresive rider, running Progressive Suspension springs in front. i can hunt potholes and it's been very plush.

heard of plenty of other poeple running ATF in various things with good results.

i'm currently waiting for newly reworked forks with Gold Valves, and hard anodized lowers. will be installing the progressive springs and Mobil 1 ATF on the front, along with new Daystar boots, and a Hayes Diversified Technology / F1 Engineering milspec shock in back.

ATF is CHEAP, and if you don't like it... you ain't out much.
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"Old dogs don't die, they just wait for you in another place." Twilight Error

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Old 08-02-2007, 09:13 AM   #13
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I thought that ATF was about the same as 10 wt. I have 7 wt fork oil with the Progressive springs now and I'm very happy with it. No more jolts when you hit sharp edged bumps and potholes. It lets you effectively use that long travel suspension to soak up the bumps.
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:53 PM   #14
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In my previous investigations, ATF seems to be about equivalent to 10/30. It is more multi vis than most fork oils, and fork oil is subject to getting pretty warm if you ride the rough stuff. I use it....About 3 oz over per leg.....And it works well for me.
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Old 08-02-2007, 03:48 PM   #15
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Why not just use the right stuff?
Bel-Ray FORK OIL.

I prefer 10wt with my Progressive springs, I found 15wt to be too harsh.

Removing the forks is very easy, just make sure you have a stand to lift the front wheel off the ground and keep the bike stable. It's easy to drain the fork legs on the bike too, but it can be messy.

I'm sorry, but I just don't understand why people use substitutes for the correct stuff, unless it's unavailable at the time.

ATF in the forks? Diesel oil in a KLR? Why?

There's no shortage of motorcycle specific oil or fork oil around here. Honda GN 10-40 or Golden Spectro 10-40 is what I run in my KLRs.

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