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Old 08-05-2007, 10:34 PM   #1
dingobitme OP
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KLRCelt and Dingobitme... Utah, Arizona, Sonora, Chihuahua and Copper Canyon...

This past May, KLRCelt (Wayne) and myself decided to hook up for a Copper Canyon trip… We had never met before and only spoken once on the phone. We both ride KLRs and that suited me just fine...This is the trip from my perspective (but both our cameras)… Oh… BTW, I swear a lot and my grammar and spelling sucks, so if that offends you, stop reading now…. YFF

May 18th:
I leave Denver around 8 am after being up late packing and doing the Doo (thanks Hondo for the tools!) with the intention of meeting Wayne around 2:00 in Moab, a pretty easy 5 hour ride up I -70. I got horn swaggled a bit in some Grand Junction traffic and ended up being around 45 minutes late, something I would pay for over and over again for the next 10 days… Wayne had left WY a couple of days earlier.

We where to meet at the Moab Diner, eat, shoot the shit and head out. Wayne was easy to spot, sitting neath’ a not so shady tree in the parking lot and looking none to pleased with my tardiness! Whatever… Here are the pigs.. still kinda clean…

Well we grubbed out at the Moab diner and started heading south along 191. Beautiful country through there, loads of desert spires and bee-hives. We had thought we would ride until around dusk and just crash in the dirt Mondo Enduro style, but found ourselves still on the Navajo reservation with the roads lined with barbed wire… We got around Many Farms when we spotted an arroyo that looked pretty deserted… A quick cut onto some private property and pinned throttles past a NO TRESPASSING sign (sorry… I did not slow to take a picture) found a pretty sweet little spot!

Being on the Rez illegally gave us some cause for pause, so every little noise that we heard was clearly a disgruntled Native American ghost wanting to scalp us for trespassing! We got out tents set up and started to turn in when we heard heavy horse hooves, like it was carrying a rider. Wayne and I where silent for what seemed like an eternity… straining to hear beyond the light ringing in the ears from road noise… We spotted the horse and rider through the brush about 20 yards away, riding away from us… We held our breaths as the rider passed... Excellent! We can rest easy now…

Around 10 or so I awake to the sound of about 2 or 3 people on foot… The air was so still, and it was pretty dark with only a sliver of the moon showing… I sat up in the bag, again straining to hear beyond the ringing… Wayne’s tent was on the other side of his bike so I could not tell if he was up or not… I thought for sure that we would get blasted by a couple of fuckin meth’d out freaks from Vegas hiding out on the road! We where quite a ways from the road and not near any paths or anything… What the hell where these guys doing out here in the freaking dark? I stayed in fight or flight mode for about another hour and finally fell back to sleep… Around 2 am a very light breeze started to pick up and the bushes would lightly brush my tent from time to time, waking me with a start and putting me back into combat mode… It was a restless night to be sure.

May 19th

In the morning we packed quickly and headed out.

Again south on 191.
We hit the small town of St. Johns (I think) North of Springerville. We spotted this old building… looks like they have been out of business for some time… what a random place to have a Ural dealership…

More of 191 heading south… the Mogollon Plains are some of my favorite in Arizona.

We stopped in the town of Alpine and had a bite at the Bear Wallow. A decent burger and a cool little town. When we left the resaraunt, some very menacing looking clouds started to mass to the East. Wayne confides in me that he may have pissed off God at some point and that he may not make the best travel partner… Fuck...
We continue south and the road starts to get twisty! No pics because we where trying to out-run the rain and… well lets face it… the road was twisty! = ) Long sweeping curves, just Beeutifull! Oh.. there was some guy on what looked like a Teneres or something with a side car headed north on 191… you in here dude? Would love to see more pics of the bike!
We came around a bend and saw a good sized black bear running across the road! Freaking awesome! Just like in the LWR! I wanted to shoot it and take it’s gall bladder, but I guess Wayne is some kinda sissy… Only seconds after the bear sighting, Wayne’s tower got buzzed by a hawk! He almost got nailed! LOL!
After about an hour of sweet twisties, we got to this rest spot. It overlooks the Mogollon rim…

I had a bit of a tummy ache from the burger… thank you State of AZ for the shitter…

That section of 191 is very popular with car and motorcycle enthusiasts. Passing us headed north was a billionaire boys club convention with about a dozen or so $100k cars! They where all silver though… weird… Jags and Aston Martins and shit like that… Expensive fucking cages! Also on the road where a bunch of Harley riders… not the kind I grew up with, but the fuckheads that don’t wave back… As Wayne calls it, “The 20 Thousand Dollar Asshole Club”!!!!

We hit the Morenci Mine overlook and ran into even more of them… I have never seen such a group of anti-social fucking pricks in my life…

We would wave and nod and say “howdy” and these fucks looked at us like we had dicks growing out of our foreheads! Whatever… We accept our position in the hierarchy and park the pigs near the dumpster… Wayne thought we might find another KLR rider if we did some dumpster diving!

Cool view of land raping….

This is the product off of one of the primary crushers…. I like this pic…

On the way out of Morenci, we got Shanghai’d by a train for like a freaking hour (or 15 minutes) in 120 degree heat (ok so it was like 95).

We hit Safford and pounded some Gatoraid… I grew up in Tucson, not far away and would be skinned alive had we not swung by for a visit… besides, a shower and a bed sounded pretty fucking great! We hit my Brother’s place around dusk and was surrounded by my family and pizza within an hour! I kick myself for not taking a group pic…

May 20th

The next morning my Brother cooked up some pancakes before we hit the road!

Wayne in the morning.

We had to super-slab it a bit the day before to get to Tucson, so we though we would reward ourselves with some dirty-goondess. We headed south on 83 past Sahuarita and then the road to Parker Canyon lake.

South of the lake it turns into a nice dirt road and we finally get to play a bit.

Wayne… the road is on your left…


Much to our surprise… Copper Canyon is much closer than we expect…

And more high desert plains…

Up and over the pass gets you to Coranodo National monument. Great views of the Sonoran desert, well into Mexico.

Top Gun shot…

I am glad we took this road… Gives us a chance to kinda get a shake down dirt ride after so many miles of tarmac. Wayne and I also get a chance to see if we ride at the same pace off-road. We jive nicely and are cruising the desert road at a nice clip. We headed over the pass and where met with a cool cottonwood lined canyon and more twistes…. Just watch yourself, there are blind sandy patches everyehere… Then west to Douglass for the border crossing into Aqua Prieta.

The crossing was un-eventfull. I am guessing that was the first time they border guards had seen a Irish passport and it gave them some confusion as what to do! It turned out to be cool and we where on our way in no time…. There where a couple of very pretty GS’s parked there as we left… you guys on here?

In Mexico, and headed south to Mocetezuma! Or so we thought…. Our map sucked and what you actually do is head a little West toward Magdalena before it turns south… If you go straight south, you will quickly be in the scrapyard district… not a good place to be in any country… About that time, a guy in a little white pickup drove by, then doubled back…. He asked us where we where headed, we said “Moctezuma”. He pointed out the right way, gave us a thumbs up and headed back out… I mean the dude actually went out of his way to give us directions… Try getting that level of hospitality in the US… Nice guy…

Ok! To Moctezuma!

We where headed through the town of Nacozari and slowed for some topas (speed bumps of ultimate power) and Wayne was bringing up the rear… As we slowed, a VW beetle with the front end all bashed in and wearing a cattle buster, came right up on Wayne’s rear tire, nearly hitting him… it looked like the dude had no brakes or something!!! We gave him some berth and he passed, with an appreciative wave… seemed as though he did not want to hit us as much as we did not wanna get hit!

About 20 miles out of Nacozari the road starts to climb and we run right up on the VW again… The slowing started to stack cars behind us… not a safe place to be on a bike in Mexico, so I signaled to Wayne that I was grabbing the next pull out… I figured we would pull off, let the VW make some time and have a snack and a drink. Well the VW must have been thinking the same thing and he pulled off as we did to the same pullout. The dust had not settled from the VW and bikes hitting the dirt when the driver of the bug came stumbling out, clutching his Tecate in his right hand, and proceeded to walk our way with a very menacing scowl on his pus… It was clear that we had done something to dimute his machismo! Wayne asked “Dude… what are we doing?” I said… “We are leaving!”

We rolled out rikki-tik and left our drunken homie on the side of the road…. We rode about 10 miles and decided to try pulling off again…. About 10 minutes later, the bug rolls by with the same appreciative wave as before! Strange shit is afoot in Mexico

We hit Moctazuma mid afternoon and secured a great room at the Motel Abril for about 35$!

We got cleaned up and hit the town…. Only one problem…. Siesta time brother…. Siesta time…. Nothing is open and we are ready to eat our feet (or own feet not each others, that is just freaking weird). We head back to the hotel and decide to just grab some Ramen and hit the rack… This fucking sucks….

I ask the proprieter of the hotel if anyplace is open at all at this time of day, she says the local pizza place is open! Oh yeah!!!!

I highly recommend it… Just ask the lady there which is the favorite and she will hook you up with a great pie… Smother it with the hot sauce they give you… Italian and Mexican eaten by an Irishman… When Worlds Collide…

Tell them that we sent you… just mention Wayne’s earlobes!

During dinner, Wayne started complaining about the preset on his bike’s rear shock…. He can’t get both feet on the ground but instead has to shift around and get one foot... I suggest he sit on my bike and gauge the right height…

Wayne you prick, that is not my bike! I know mine is red, but c’mon man!

dingobitme screwed with this post 11-27-2007 at 06:25 AM
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:35 PM   #2
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May 21st

We head out early and go south towards Tepache.

The road is great, with awesome light and that spiritual kinda Sonoran desert whatever… I love the desert.

We decide to stop for a bit of breakfast….

And some big fucking cactus pictures

So desvio (desviacion) means detour in Spanish…. And this is the cause of our first detour!

It was a Monday and no one was working…. What the hell man… where is the foreman!?! The good thing is that it drops you into a sweet little canyon with a little creek running through it! Ready yourself for the obligatory water crossing photos!

Ok… so not that exciting….

Just outside of Sahuaripa, we hit our first military checkpoint… these guys are all really cool and just want to check out your stuff… don’t be a prick to them and they will let you by with little more than a quick bag search and a few jokes in Spanish at your expense! I played a little dumb and did not let them know I spoke Spanish… You have to answer fewer questions that way!
We hit Sahuaripa, gas up and grab a bite at a local Taqueria… Great stuff… It was on the main drag just south of the town square (you can see it in the background). I think his name was Gus and he had a daughter that lived in Oklahoma City. Great Carne de Res tacos! And it is next to a Aqua Purificado store, so you can fill the bottles and the camelbacks. We hang out for a bit with Gus and discuss the lack of work in that area. Only small amounts of ranching and some mining. Swing by and spend some cash there… you filthy rich emperialists!

We head south to the town of Ariyechi where we find this amazing church and central gazebo thingy…. This little town is great, we don’t spend much time here though… I want to come back…

From Ariyechi the map shows 2 options: either head south to the town of San Nicholas and then east towards Chiuahua, or head to the east towards Terachi and the road turns south and ends up in Yecora. The road to Yecora looks less developed on the map so we decide to take it. The road heads down a hill and over a bridge and quickly turns to sharp baby heads sticking up through hard-pack. Can this really be the road? Before we go 100 yards, I stop and ask an elderly gentleman tending to his cattle: “Estes el camino a Yecora?” He pauses for a moment and replys…. “Si… Si… Yecora.” Sweet! More dirt!

Here are some shots of the road headed up…. It gets pretty remote and the views are fantastic! It was wicked windy in a few spots and caused some gnarly dust-devils that left us blind around a few sharp corners.

This poor bastard did not make it….

Wayne and I differ a bit in opinions… He doubts the ability of a larger bike to handle this road… I am sure it is possible, but man you better have knobbies and keep it mellow… there are a loads of places where it is easy to drop a bike…. It gets really steep in some sections and is pretty washed out and rutted. The KLR is a perfect bike for this road but I think a really strong rider could make it 2 up on a GS with a set of TKC-80s aired down a bit (that’s you Bill!).
I upgraded the skidplate on my pig with the one from HT… Highly recommended… It took so many knocks I stopped counting. Big knocks too… I was very happy I had done that. I also did the highway peg/front guard upgrade… again a good upgrade… I have a good size ding in mine now!
You are not likely to see much in the way of traffic until you get close to the town of Tarachi and then be sure to slow down and watch for kids on horseback and 4-wheelers.

The road starts to climb outside of Tarachi up to like 4 or 5k so it starts to cool off a bit. The road also gets pretty smooth and fast! Wayne and I find ourselves drifting around corners at mach speeds when we came to our first cattle guard…..

Holy shit…. This is why you do not ride in the third world at night on a motorbike! These fucking things will swallow a GS whole! I have seen these in other places here on ADVRider.

You can balance the bike over a rail pretty easy if you are carefull, or you can jump some of them (check before jumping) some of these have a little bump about 3 or 4 feet before and then sink down… an attempt to jump would place the front wheel landing right in the middle of the guards! Most have a horse gate around them, but some don’t. Be conservative… the spacing is perfect to grab a wheel…. Can you imagine going over with a wheel stuck in the guard? The kind of taco you don’t wanna have in Mexico... This is another spot where Wayne’s inability to touch the ground with both feet bit him in the ass!!! = ) LOL.

We find a nice spot to kick it and have a snack…

We hit Yecora, gas up and choke down a couple of Naranjas. I love the soft drinks in mexico… They use azucar (sugar) and not high fructose corn syrup…
We take a few minutes to kick the bikes and check for loose stuff and head east on MEX 16 towards Maycoba. The road is great! Twisty goodness. You can see your own license plate on a few of these turns so be cautious! We also learn that the solid yellow line and the “No Rebase” sign (no passing) is little more than a suggestion. Truckers seem to just line the hood ornament up with the yellow line and keep the pedal to the floor! We take turns running point because we just get tired of being bumper fodder! Several very close calls with some of these guys! We pause along the way to chill and take in the cool looking cliffs…

The twisties are great, but after the dirt road and the truckers, we are starting to tire… We stop in a small town and grab a bite: A couple of red chili burritos…. HOT HOT HOT!!!! I can eat some hot food, but holy shit man! I took a picture of the burrito, but it actually melted the lens….

We had it in our head we would try to get to Creel before night fall, but had not planned on the dirt road from Ariyechi to Yecora so we started to look for other accommodations. There is a truck load of logging in this area, so there are lots of logging roads. We start looking for a place to pull over but quickly find ourselves east of Cahuasori at the military checkpoint. From here it looks like you can head to the south and straight to Creel… However when I inquire about how to get there, they point east… We head east for a mile and I flag down Wayne… something does not seem right. We double back and take the road south from the checkpoint… I am glad we did.

Just to the south-east of Cahuasori is the Parque Nacional Cascadada de Basesache (Basesache Falls National Park).

This place is on the order of Yosemite, but not nearly as commercialized. We are amazed as to the beauty and grandeur that this park offers… it is mind numbing looking into the canyon from the overlook…

And we have the whole park to ourselves! Almost… There is a couple here (presumably on a date) and she wants to take her pic with the bikes… Why the hell she chose the Franken-KLR… I will never know…. Love the shoes…..

As we where coming in, we saw a bunch of campsites, but they all have barbed wire stretched across the entrances… We had almost decided to poach site there, but find a better one instead! Look to the east side of the parking area at the lookout… you will see a large cistern up there… there is a little rocky ramp that will take you up to the top of the hill where we hid the bikes… If you walk uphill from the cistern, you are rewarded with a sweet spot!

We camo the bikes and pack our gear up the hill. A meal, a sunset, a small fire and a sleeping bag… Do you need anything else?

Oh…. Perhaps a shitter with a view! Watch for splinters!

The night was so clear with a very light breeze and fantastic skies… We turn in at dark.

dingobitme screwed with this post 08-06-2007 at 05:41 AM
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:38 PM   #3
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May 22nd

The next morning I awake to frost all over the bag… it got COLD at night. Wayne had a 25 degree bag and he had to cover up with his jacket… This is how I found him in the morning!

Great site…

We grab a snack, watch the sunrise over the lookout and hit it.
Heading south from the park we find the road turns to dirt again! Yeah! We also see our first motorcycle in Mexico (not counting the pizza delivery scooter). Wayne is thinking he is a bad ass… drifting the corners, when he gets smoked by some dude on an old Honda 200! The bike is really beat up, but the dude is making great time… Here is Wayne eating dust!

We se LOADS of cattle along the road… be careful… The trick to playing chicken is knowing when to flinch…

The road is pretty good for the most part and climbs to over 8800k in elevation.

There are a few NASTY sections of foot deep talcum powder that stretch for a couple of hundred yards. Just grab 2nd, lean back and pin the throttle! As you start to descend a bit, there is a significant amount of construction….. this is where it gets fucking shitty… We get stuck behind a few rock trucks spewing dust and diesel exhaust…. We are wiped out by the time we get to San Juanito and Wayne is looking a little on the Gandolf side! Dude… I though your bike was green!

I had black boots at some point…

We gas up and head south to Creel! We follow the signs to downtown looking for food and a spot to chill. We ran into a fellow from Canada that had ridden down on his V-Strom 1100 and was planning on heading into the canyon in the morning. He also mentioned that the hostel in town was the best deal. We had compared our routes from the states and our Canadian friend had blasted down the auto-piste in about 2 days of driving from Canada! Holy crap! He recommended hitting up Tres Amigos for some beta on the canyon. We take his advice and go visit…

The dudes at Tres Amigos are great! Very friendly and helpful and very informative: X hours to here, X hours there, you should stay here and eat here and blah blah blah…. (oh… this is confession time… I knew nothing about CC and neither did Wayne, not how big it is or how long it takes to go through it or anything…). We got our map and list of waypoints and all that stuff…

We swing into a reseraunt and grub out on some Pechuga…. Something is starting to sink into us and it started with something the Canadian dude said: “I will find out tomorrow if this trip was worth it! I guess the adventure starts tomorrow!”

The adventure starts tomorrow? Whether the trip was worth it?

The trip is what makes it worth it… The adventure starts when you leave the house… This trip is so not about going to Copper Canyon… On the way down, we where presented with so many options and obsticles and opportunities and now here we are… in Creel, headed to CC with our map and our GPS coordinates and all the other folks that will be heading down to Batopilas and Buta and all the other places we have read about in ADVRider and the like… We are both suddenly sad to be here… disappointed in the level of touristiness (I think that is a Cobertism) of Creel.

Make no mistake, I am not discounting the canyon at all, or you hard core adventurers that head down there all the time, but something about it just did not sit right with us… It was weird. Perhaps because there where pamphlets and maps and all that shit….. We decide to just go about 30 of so kms into the canyon to check it out and just stay the night in Creel.

We head south and the road gets pretty twisty, with lots of hairpins and great views.

The first bit into the canyon as the road turns to dirt is pretty good… loads of fist sized rocks and hard-pack. We are both very impressed with Batopilas Canyon… It looks like it would be a great time to had down there, but for some reason, we are not that excited about it. We snap some shots and relax a bit and take it all in… We are happy to view it from above…

We are just sitting around on the side of the road, swinging our legs over a cliff and relaxing a bit…. “What is that sound?” I ask Wayne…. Soft and sweet and melodic… the voice of a someone singing…. We stand and look around… High on the rocks above us is a young woman, sitting on the edge of a 40 foot cliff just singing away….

Wayne and I stand there silent, listening to her song…. It was fantastic… She finished and the canyon was silent again… Wayne and I turn to each other with the biggest grins ever…. Ok… That was worth the trip… I sheepishly raise my hand in a wave, and she waves back. It’s time to move on. That is all of Copper Canyon I will ever need to experience… We double back and head to Creel.

As we move out of the canyon, we are struck by the stark contrast the Tarahumara women tending their goats and cattle in their brilliantly colored garb are against the rugged and dusty landscape surrounding the canyon. I wanted to take photos of them, but felt it to be in very poor taste. Wayne got one quickly…

I instead got a shot of these two dogs in post-coitus-interuptus with a friendly onlooker…Enjoy…

As we both had about 10 pounds of talcum powder type dirt in our ass-cracks, we opted for staying in a hotel…. After checking around in the hotels to the south (55-60 bux a night) we decided to try the hostel the Canadian was staying in…

Amazing deal…. It is on the north east corner of the square and great! It was 35 for a room with 2 double beds, a decent shower and breakfast and dinner included! We got back just in time for a dinner of caldo de verdugas and pan for starters, then guac, a kind of pearl pasta and cheese stuffed green chili! Fantastic! Really cool sort of place….. highly recommended… The only funny thing (not for us, but for the other travelers staying there) was that the dining room was right by the front door, so when we where breaking down the bikes and humping the gear upstairs, they had to look at our filthy asses looking not unlike the Peanuts “Pigpen”. There was a sort of constant cloud that followed us from the talcum silt! We found the Canadian’s bike still bright an shiny… here are the pigs looking not as pretty…

We also got a chance that night to give our ladies a call…. A nice addition to a great day. You can get phone cards at the Dulceria and use them just south of the hostel.

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Old 08-05-2007, 10:39 PM   #4
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May 23rd

We awake early with the intent of moving steady, taking the easiest roads and getting to where we get… Be sure you find out what time the front door gets unlocked… we had to wait a bit for the breakfast prep cooks to get in and un-lock it… We decided not to stick around for breakfast in favor of making the miles… Wayne is particularly pushy this morning and trying to get me to hurry… This would later bite him in the ass! We get a good 20 miles out of Creel and I am running point… I look in the rear view and Wayne is not there… I grab a pull out and kill the motor…. Listening for his… Nothing for a minute or two… then he comes roaring around the corner… shaking his head…. “Dude…. I left my wallet in Creel!!!!” Aw shit…..

We head back to creel and Wayne looks very sheepish as we get off the bikes…

No issue… it was in the room, but that could have been disastrous for my Irish friend trying to get back across the border!!!

We continue north… beyond San Juanito, the terrain changes to sweeping fields of tall grass, long smooth lines in the landscape… quite cool….

We pause at a cemetery for a bit to relax… I am always impressed with the reverence Mexicans show their dead…

And then stop for a nice brunch…

It was turning out to be a really chill day…We even got some glory shots in the twisties!

Due to a misunderstanding at the checkpoint near Cahuasori (basically the wrong guys saying it was ok to pass), we met with some very agitated soldiers… We where rolling through and an underling waved us on without much of a pause, so we barked the motors and head out…. Alto! Alto! Screamed the soldiers in the back of a humvee…. We stopped and went back… The little capitan of the group was pretty pissed at us for blowing through his station and not paying him his due respect… I apologized and explained the other guard’s instructions… He was unmoved by my apology and got pretty shitty with us… They tore into everything on my bike, not as much on Wayne’s…. I esentially had to kiss his ass and tell them how impressed I was with the humvee and non-functioning 50 cal mounted on top… Wayne kept asking me… Dude… What is going on?”… They had the guns all out and kept repeating “muerte” to Wayne (the decal on the back of his helmet). We where both a bit spooked… Turned out fine, but was a little tweaky…

Here is a shot of the checkpoint from the west…

We continue to the west, rolling out some pretty decent miles…. We stopped here 2 or 3 days before and there was a horse standing there… this time the horse had been creamed and knocked down a hill… the whole place smelled like death…

Crossing into Sonora found the landscape changing back the African type savannah, rolling hills and shrubs…

We stopped for a break near this creek and found this old foot bridge… Full on Indiana Jones style…

A little further down, we saw a huge bunch of buzzards, all crowded around… I wanted to try and get a shot, but they flew off as I circled back around… we found this huge pile of bones there… looked like it is the local dead-shit dump…

We found a couple of cow skulls and strapped em to the pigs… Motociclete de Muerte! Nice! This will make for some cool pics!

We continue east past Yecora and decide to take the other road back to Ariyechi hoping for a little better time… We hit the top of this hill and actuall could see the first road we took from Ariyechi to Yecora.

Note squiggly line on the sign! Loads of twisties… great roads, just lots of those damn trucks…

Great views the whole way….

We headed north towards Ariyechi. The road is pretty good, but be alert… we routinely had to slam and swerve to avoid VW bus sized rocks in the road! The DOT is kinda lax in this section! As you move north, you kinda funnel into a drainage system with a river at the bottom… there is a huge lake out there that looks like a fish and bird haven… No sign of any use there though… I wonder who it belongs to?

The road stays low and follows a river, crossing it a few times on nice bridges.

We hit Ariyechi and stop at the church again… This time, the local police swing by and stop to watch us… People look at us with much more suspicion and the gas station attendant hardly said a word to us…. I guess that is what you get when you strap dead shit to your bike! We snapped another shot of the pigs and abandon the skulls…

We continue north through Sahuaripa and hit the first checkpoint again…. This time the soldiers are a bit more inquisitive and ask our occupations… “Engenero” I replied…. Pero, mi amigo es un Artistico de Tattoo” I point to Wayne. This has piqued their interest…. Turns out they assume all artists are pot heads! So they ask Wayne to pull off the jacket for proof of his occupation…. Wayne shows off his back piece, a huge red dragon eating Dick Cheney or something and that brings all the soldiers out of the shadows! They crowd around and get a good laugh… it kept things light… turns out it is handy to bring a tattoo’d freak with you to Mexico!

We hit the same bridge detour on the way back and really catch some cool shots…

We have so much fun, we both take the time to drop our bikes…. Mother bitch….

And Wayne courts a dead cow…

We both nearly skewer this fucking cow that stepped out onto the road….

We linger a bit out on the road south of Moctezuma to catch the sunset… the desert really is an incredible place… We talk about doing an extended northern mexico desert only trip…. I would have started it right then if we had the time….

We head into Moctezuma, catch a room at the same hotel and eat at the same pizza place… yes.. it is that good….While in the pizza joint, one of the employee’s yougsters comes in and really gets a kick out of of Wayne’s ink. He would leave and then return with more and more of his little buddies… I stopped him and got Wayne to show off some ink… The kid really thought it was cool…

Another really decent day of riding.

dingobitme screwed with this post 08-06-2007 at 05:50 AM
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:40 PM   #5
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May 24th

The next morning brought us into Agua Prieta for the border crossing… now when you come back through other border crossings in Mexico, there is a guy in the line removing your window sticker, but we did not realize that there where none in Aqua Prieta… you have to hit the same place you picked up the permit… We had already exited the country, so we had to recycle back to Mexico, return the permits and cross again! DOH!!!

Anycase… We headed back to Tucson to meet my family for a bite… we decided to hang out for the rest of the day, give the pigs some TLC; new chain for me, relax the preload on Wayne’s bike and an oil change and filter cleaning for both… It was a luxury to hang out in my dad’s shop and do the work… Swamp coolers work so well in May in Tucson!

That’s a big ass bucket of steel on the back of the bike in case you are wondering….

On the way to Tucson, we grabbed about 20 miles on I-10 at 80 mph… well I had checked my oil level before we left Agua Prieta and it was nice an level… well when we drained out oil… it had a COMBINED volume from BOTH bikes of about 3 litlres!!!!! These pigs really gobble the grease at freeway speeds… I am gonna upgrade to a 16T drive sprocket and pack a 14T for my next adventure.

Back in the day, my father Rich was a big motorcycle fanatic… He shared some old pics of him as a youngster on his Triumph and his old hardtail Panhead that he fully chopped… OCC aint got shit on my pops!

Another cool shot…

What is so cool is that this is back in the day before you could just order an extended fork from J&P Cycles, these guys did all their own mods. I think those forks are modded rear axle radius rods from a model T…I love the small tank and smoothed in frame… And check out the keg tank!!!

Wayne had been pretty envious of my super-mack-daddy-kickstand-footplate I had on my pig, so we upgraded his as well….

My welding was a little rusty (actually the thing looked like a fucking abortion), but whatever… The rod mustah been wet… that’s it…. it won’t ever come off… besides… it’s a KLR! And it’s Wayn’e bike! He shot a little flat black and now it is sexy…

We hung out with my family that night and grubbed pretty hard… Another chill day

May 25th

The next morning we headed up to Globe, via Oracle, and Hayden/Winkleman… Wayne had to get the obligatory Saguaro cactus shot… And this is a pretty big one…

These are the Santa Catalinas, my most favoritest place in the world to rock climb and where I consider home…

We swung up past the Ray Mine,

and through Superior

and Devil’s Canyon on into Globe for more Mexican food…. Globe is (in my professional and not so humble opinion) the Mexican food capital of the entire universe… with nothing even coming close to it… Wayne sampling the local fare…

We rolled north by way of Roosevelt Lake…. We had almost forgotten that this was the beginning of Memorial Day… there was a flotilla… nay an armada of RV’s and jet skis and all that bullshit out there… Amazing what the American idea of a vacation is…
Wayne needed to stop to “take a slash” (take a piss… limey bastard) so we pulled off at this tunnel and found a bunch of bats and shit in the culvert… I wanted Wayne to get bit so badly! That would make a great ADVRider story!

Wanting to stay off the super slab, we headed north through Payson and on to the Natural Bridge state park… this is one of my faves in AZ…

We headed north through Flagstaff and decided we would try to make it to Page and grab a place to camp….However, we find it getting dark much faster than we thought it would… Bummer… we are still on the res and decide to try to poach a site… We find this really weird place with these dunes and hills…

It is in the Painted Desert, so it is amazing looking, but man… something did not feel right, so despite the impending darkness, we head north and try to make it to Page and figure we would just stay in a hotel. We roll out with Wayne and his Halogens running point…

We hit Page pretty late… like 9:30 or 10 and of course, the holiday has the place filled… No vacancies anywhere… we decide to head north a bit and se what’s what…. About 15 or so miles out of town we spot this dirt road headed out west… we grab it and quickly find it very deserted! YES! Landed on our feet again! We blast back a few miles, find some trails through the desert and pull off… Well away from the road, nice and open… great site!

We put together a quick tuna and rice burrito dinner and a desert of peanut-butter covered bagels and hit the rack… Great spot… great luck!

May 24th

Well about 3am I awake to the distinct sound of a beat-up ford pickup headed down a washboard road…. Thjat sort of whiney powersteering pump is un-mistakable… Sure enough… a minute or so later, this old ford pulls down this OHV trail right to where we are camping… “Wayne!” I shout under my breath… no response…nothing… “Dude… there is someone here!”

The ford sits there with the lights on the bikes for about 5 minutes… I am guessing that they are wondering what to do… I was again waiting for the Vegas meth-head shotgun blast…. But it never came… They rolled out pretty slowly… I could hear very faint voices over the power steering pump... It was a little creepy, but really… who is gonna fuck with a couple of guys on bikes that look as rough as ours do?!?! Well… I don’t know if I would be afraid of this guy…..

The sunrise was awesome and brought light to our camp area… It is a great site…. Very desert!

So we get packed up and start to head out and Wayne’s bike won’t start! I guess the high beam plus the fog lights where too much for the magneto… A quick push start got the pig rolling… As I was walking back up the hill to my bike, Wayne gently reminded me that I was holding up the show once again… Bastard.

We swung into the town of Kanab and grabbed a quick bite. Rolling north, highway 89 parallels a river and is covered with OHV trails… for sure need to come back here… You can rent this old courthouse for like a family reunion or something if you want… I

The bugs where really bad and it took some doing to get the visor clean…

A short jaunt on the super slab led us to the town of Salina where Wayne would continue North to Montana and I would head East to Moab to hook up with my special lady friend… We swung into Mom’s Cafe for a slice of pie… Great way to end the trip… We talked about future trips, Baja, Mongolia and the like… We joked about things we said along the way, like the fact that the biggest danger of the whole trip was hooking up with someone you did not know for a trip like that… Aside from the fact that Wayne is a complete prick and a wanker, we made pretty fast friends. I am pretty certain we will ride together again.

We said our goodbyes (Wayne tried to hump my leg), saddled the pigs, rode to the light at the end of town, Wayne turned right, I turned left and just like that, the trip was over… Until next time…

I rode on to Moab where I spent a few days relaxing in the arms of my girlfriend (nice break from the drone of the road) and hanging with some other folks… I felt pretty silly when trying to talk about the trip…. It seemed like words where hard to come by and pretty hollow.

May 26th
I get up early and hit the road to Denver…. Coming over Vail pass I am met with this…

Almost like something was telling me to turn around and head back south…

The end!

dingobitme screwed with this post 08-06-2007 at 03:23 PM
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:56 AM   #6
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Great ride and pictures.

I have wanted to do that Copper Canyon ride for a long time.

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Old 08-06-2007, 07:05 AM   #7
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F'in brilliant

Cow skulls.
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:09 AM   #8
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Great report!!!
Be sure the safest rule is that we should not dare to live in any scene in which we dare not die. ~Lewis Carroll~
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:54 AM   #9
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Old 08-06-2007, 11:19 AM   #10
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Blamonge? Blancmange?

Originally Posted by Dags
I spent like 5 minutes trying to figure that out! I am so uncultured...
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Old 08-06-2007, 07:16 PM   #11
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Ride Report Rulz....

So I just read the Rulz.... I hope no one is offended by my potty mouth.... = (
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Old 08-06-2007, 07:25 PM   #12
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Awesome ride, pics and report, thanks for posting
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Old 08-06-2007, 08:26 PM   #13
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Heck, that makes me want to head south, too...
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:47 PM   #14
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I'm a lazy bastard

Thanks for putting the report together Chris.......I was gonna do it but, hey you're the fuckin engineer!!! Are you coming to South America then?
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:10 AM   #15
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I just wanna bang on these drums all day....

? Why the hell would I go there when I could sit on my couch and watch re-runs of “All in the Family?” You know this man… We gotta get some details together and rough out some sort of structure…
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