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08-23-2007, 03:24 PM
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#1 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: West Michigan
Oddometer: 283
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Michigan -- Prudhoe Bay (Part 1)
A trip worth telling about! The afternoon of July 9, I left Holland (Michigan, N42 47.206 W86 06.890 ) with a few friends to ride our motorcycles to Deadhorse on the north slope of Alaska's Prudhoe Bay (N70 11.926 W148 27.565). It ended up being an awesome journey of 11,845 miles (or 19,189 kilometers) which we covered in 28 days.
A (not so) brief ride report: Day 1/July 9: We (Left to right: Blane- a good friend and my BMW Motorcycles of Grand Rapids dealer, Loren, Matt, Mark, myself, and my cousin Nick from Hermanus/South Africa) left our home at 3pm to spend the evening at our cottage, Pinotage, near Mears, 75 miles north of Holland). For dinner: Beer, wine, South African Boerewors, some single malt, and lots of anticipation. ![]() ![]() ![]() Day 2/July 10: Ludington to Fargo, SD. Our journey took us 35 miles north to Ludington where we took the SS Badger to Manitowoc (WI). The Badger assures a smooth beginning to our trip with a hearty breakfast. Traveling at a steady 17mph (according to the Zumo), we were joined by many other bikers, including a couple of guys from Belgium who flew their bikes to Boston and were heading to the BMW International Rally in West Bend, Wisconsin. I'd love to go to the Rally another year... From Manitowoc we continued along Route 29 to Bob's Java Hut in Minneapolis, a biker friendly place if there is one. At Bob's we greeted Matt and Mark who turned south to engage in official business. After spending some time on I-94, we slept in Fargo (SD). A solid 600 mile day that introduces Nick to American interstate traffic and its 18-wheelers. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Day 4/July 12: Great Falls to Radium Hot Springs (BC, Canada). Following RT89 north we had breakfast at Buck's in Choteau, were briefly misled by my Zumo, and finally got to Glacier National Park's St. Mary Visitor Center and the beginning of the "Going-to-the-sun" Road. What an amazing road, cutting across the Rockies. We saw Dall sheep and of course impressive scenery. At Roosville we crossed into Canada in 117 F degree heat. That is HOT shouted out loud! Even the border patrol officer felt sorry for us as we whisked into Canada. Following RT93 north we came upon a Harley Davidson that crashed. As we slowed down a Honda Civic overtook us and nearly ran into the downed bike which had crossed lanes. We arrived in Radium Hot Springs too tired and hot to seek out a camp ground or the hot springs. Today, a scenic 432 miles. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Day 5/July 13: Ice fields Parkway: Radium Hot Springs to Dawson Creek via Lake Louise, Jasper, and Grande Prairie. We continued along RT93 to breakfast in Lake Louise, crossing the Kootenay National Park and the Rockies in brisk 45 degree temps. Leaving Radium Hot Springs at 6:30 am, we encountered little traffic and surprisingly no wildlife. In Banff National Park and Jasper National Park we saw some impressive views of retreating glaciers, ice fields, and glacier lakes, but also the back view of many RVs. In Grande Prairie we quickly hydrated ourselves since the 105 degree heat continued. We then pushed on to Dawson Creek, "Mile 0" of the Alaska Highway, only to run into road construction. We camped for the first time on the trip, initially unable to find our camp site (from the Milepost). To our surprise and obvious dismay, the campground has become an RV park only. The manager must have seen how tired and hot we were and not only gave us permission to camp amidst the RVs, but also sold as a few cold ones. Single malt for dessert. 598 HOT miles. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
BMWMOA # 127257 IBA# 24641 Michigan--Alaska (Prudhoe Bay)--Grand Canyon--Michigan RT 66: Chicago to Santa Monica Ubuntu: I am what I am because of who we are. |
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08-23-2007, 03:28 PM
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#2 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: West Michigan
Oddometer: 283
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Michigan -- Prudhoe Bay (Part 2)
Day 10-11/July 18-19: The Dalton Highway: Fairbanks--Prudhoe Bay--Fairbanks. This is why I did the trip! My cousin Nick and I ride the famous "Haul Road." Blane joins us to the Yukon Crossing and ruins his back tire, which he had to replace on the return trip. Riding up took us 15 hours. Sometimes it was real scary as 2-3 inches of water got dumped by water trucks on calcium chloride enriched gravel roads. The locals call this slippery mix "snot". The first experience came almost immediately as we passed the Yukon River and I was thinking: "If the road is like this the whole way, there is no way I can do the remaining 300 miles!" Luckily all road maintenance has an ending and before long we were back on gravel and later chip seal with some serious pot holes. Never escaping "loose gravel," it feels as if the bikes move quite a bit beneath us. Standing up and moving slightly faster helped greatly.
The weather was perfect, however, and we made good progress as we navigated the hurdles the Haul Road threw at us. There were extensive wild fires in the past years and purple fireweed form the backdrop to blackened dead trees. These plants are the first to settle burnt areas and initiates the rehabilitation process for the land. Impressive mountains such as Koyukuk Mountain greeted as we left Coldfoot. The road, of course, follows the Trans Alaska Pipeline System (TAPS), which runs 800 miles from Deadhorse on the North Slope to Valdez. It is one of the most remote roads in the US. Going over the Atigun Pass and through the Brooks Range was beautiful, but I can see the road turning into a beast when it rains. The arctic tundra was beautiful, with millions of mosquitoes welcoming us when we stopped and flowers along the road side. The musk oxen eluded us and so remained the only animal I wanted to see on this trip but did not. In my imagination I kept seeing mammoth roaming the gentle rolling landscape. We passed through a massive thunderstorm that became so dark my Zumo thought it was night, switching to night mode in an area that has near perpetual daylight this time of year. I lift my hat to the folks at Garmin, though. This GPS bounced up the Haul Road and back and still works flawlessly. Just as we passed Pump Station #2, we encountered 30 miles of gravel and stone road maintenance. A fellow biker on a Harley at Coldfoot warned us that this was the coming. He described it as "hell." The road became a river of loose stones, bigger than the "marbles" they call "gravel," and definitely more difficult to navigate. Yet the GSs did great! Still, reaching Deadhorse was a relief. Saluting Prudhoe Bay, Nick drops his bike twice within 50 yards, both at standstill and with no damage to the bike. Samaritans in big Ford F250s show up to help him out. At the Prudhoe Bay Hotel, actually a dormitory style hostel catering for oilfield workers, we heard of a Harley Davidson that came down yesterday in that 30 mile section, apparently costing the owner $2200 for a flat bed truck to haul it to Fairbanks. We also heard of a Suzuki V-Strom that ran right through a caribou, almost in sight of Deadhorse, a few days earlier... Nick describe Deadhorse as a "sci-fi city," with major security and cubicle like compounds everywhere. It was 40F on my Kisan thermometer with rain coming in sideways off the Arctic Ocean. The wind was blowing to hard I was scared it would blow our bikes off their center stands. We has a quick shower, ate well at the 24 hour cafeteria, and slept before our heads reached the pillows. The next morning, with the rain and cold continuing, and a tour to the oil fields only possible late that afternoon, we decided to start the return journey. By the time we reached the Brooks Range the rain and wind is gone and we ride in sunlight. Since we discovered that going slightly faster helps with the back tire movement and the feeling that the front end will give way, the return trip is uneventful and we make it to Fairbanks in 13 hours. Leading, I hit a few potholes in the chip seal section so hard that my handle bars, which I discovered were not fastened tight enough, would bend down. I first noticed this when Nick would disappear in my rearview mirror. I would stop and force them back into place. Covered in mud we reached our campground to tell Blane and Loren about our trip. Here we heard that Blane got a flat tire returning from the Yukon and it took him most of the day to get back. Riding up, I made Coldfoot-Prudhoe Bay (248 miles) on one tank. A mistake I made was storing the extra fuel (in a cheap Fred Meyer gas can) in my Jesse pannier. The can leaked and the gasoline started eroding the inside coating of my pannier. Back in Fairbanks, I used carpet cleaner to get rid of the smell. Camping next to us was Fred from Florida, who rode a well-farkled BMW 1150GSA. He attempted the Haul Road the next day, but we saw him again that evening when his rear brake caliper came loose. It wiped out most of his spokes... Luckily for him this happened at slow speed in a construction zone and he was not hurt. The construction folks placed his bike on a truck and took him back to Fairbanks and to George Rahn at Trail's End BMW. The Dalton Highway ("The Haul Road"): ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Day 12/July 20: We definitely needed a recovery day and stayed one day longer in Fairbanks than planned. This gave us a chance to visit the University of Alaska (Fairbanks), Museum. It was informative and saw a BIG grizzly. After cleaning my bike, I notice that the "Brake failure" light remained on. Blane tried to troubleshoot it and we decided it might be related to the handlebars bending down and air bubbles entering the brake lines. We headed to George Rahn to see if he could help, which he kindly agreed to do. He was gracious as we interrupted his work and he searched for a tooklBMWNA sent him. To open the brake fluid contained on a 12GS requires a special tool which George did not have. Also, I was not in the mood for a brake bleed that would take a few hours. We left his interesting shop, where old and new stand side by side, hoping that the problem would resolve itself. To make a long story short, I discovered that the battery was dying, probably the victim of the 30-something night we had in Prudhoe Bay. Somehow there was enough voltage in the battery to start the bike, but not enough to get the Servo-assist system on the GS going. I therefore had minimal brakes until the battery was adequately charged, at which point the brakes returned to life. The next days, however, I would do many miles without brakes... I finally replaced the battery in Salt Lake City. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() First, the hundreds (and probably thousands) of pink salmon that was running up the rivers to spawn. Even from a few hundred feet up we could clearly see them swimming to their birth ground. More impressive however, was the many glaciers who have dried up and are now "highways" of rock, gravel, and mud, with some ice . We left Denali in sunshine, but reached Talkeetna in rain. Today we did 274 miles. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Day 14/July 22: The Sterling Highway: Talkeetna via Anchorage and on to Homer. We finally ran into the "monsoon" we have read online and in guide books that can be non-stop in late July and August. Today it rained all the way, which as most bikes would know, is not as bad as it sounds. From Talkeetna we stopped in Anchorage. Being Sunday, we missed the traffic and visited the Anchorage Museum of History and Art. It is a museum worth visiting and we learnt many interesting things, especially how the Inuit hunt whales. From there we ran south to Homer, where despite the rain we could see the beauty of the mountains across the Kachemak Bay. 334 rainy miles. Day 15:/July 23: Seward Highway: Homer to Seward. This morning we said good-bye to Blane as he started his solo ride back home. We continued on to Seward, never leaving the rain behind. Seward is located at the head of Resurrection Bay on the Kenai Peninsula. We found lodging at a great B&B: LeBarn Appetit, on the Exit Glacier Road. Having settled in, we visited the Exit Glacier and then had the best smoked salmon chowder in a sourdough bowl I've ever had (even if it was my first!). 168 wet miles following the Kenai Peninsula. ![]() It is 3pm and we leave Seward to start our return trip. We sleep in Palmer, northeast of Anchorage. Trip meter: 168 miles. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The Cassiar is seen as a minor road. No lines on the chip seal just wide enough so that two vehicles can pass each other. There are few areas cleared next to the road, allowing animals to surprise you as they walk into the road. Beyond Jade City we encounter our first grizzly. We passed him 30 yards to our right. We stopped a 100 yards down the road and watched the bear continue its path crossing the road behind us. The bear paused and gave us a curious look but before Nick or I could think of a photograph it disappears in the forest. We decide to hotel it since we enter Dease Lake as rain pours down. Today a tiring 551 miles. One young bear entered the road 50 yards ahead of me as I was doing about 55mph. I decided I cannot stop, having little brakes to begin with, and stopping would probably land me very close to the bear. So I kept going, slowing somewhat if I needed to speed up to avoid a hit (a hint from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation training I regularly undergo). The bear kept walking into the road and I kept going. My adrenaline was pumping, but I was thinking: What would people say if I run into a bear? We "greeted" each other with about 3 yards to spare and Nick and I reminisced at our first stop after this encounter. The Cassiar is beautiful and well worth the trip. Less RVs than anywhere else on this whole trip and more wildlife, including a huge (and seemingly unafraid of motor vehicles) herd of mountain goat. We met up with Loren later than planned after someone in a Honda Civic nearly runs over Nick. We contemplate that event eating great Indian food. A long but eventful 603 miles. ![]() ![]() ![]() Day 20/July 28: Prince George to Tonasket, WA. We continue on RT97 South to pass scenic Lake Okanagan. In Peachland I pick up a few bottles of the local wine (highly recommended) and we enter the US at the Osoyoos Border Crossing. We have dinner at the Tonasket Saloon. Good food, a loud live band, and the family celebration of a 21st. 503 miles. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
BMWMOA # 127257 IBA# 24641 Michigan--Alaska (Prudhoe Bay)--Grand Canyon--Michigan RT 66: Chicago to Santa Monica Ubuntu: I am what I am because of who we are. |
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08-23-2007, 03:30 PM
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#3 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: West Michigan
Oddometer: 283
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Michigan -- Prudhoe Bay (Part 3)
Day 23/July 31: Salt Lake City to Hurricane, UT. We visit Accolade Motorsports, the BMW (and KTM/Triumph/MV Agusta) dealership in Salt Lake. They graciously help me immediately and with a new battery my "brake failure" disappears. Feeling safe for the first time since Fairbanks Nick and I continue on to Kolob Canyon in Zion National Park. In Kolob Canyon we see the signs of major thunderstorm activity. We dodge the storms today, but it will get us tomorrow. 290 miles.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Day 28: Lincoln to Holland, RT 80 to RT94 to RT196. We leave Lincoln early and run the last 661 miles to my home in Holland without any problems. Not even Chicago's obligatory traffic problems got to us as we stayed in the passing lane... We arrive as my girls literally jump up and down. I'm too tired to respond appropriately. I remind myself that entrances and exits are never easy for families to negotiate... ![]() Preparing the motorcycle Knowing for a few years that I want to do this trip, I prepared my 2005 R1200GS accordingly since I bought it November 2004. Next time, however, I will listen to my "gut" and replace the battery before I leave on a major ride. All of these items made the ride easier:
__________________
BMWMOA # 127257 IBA# 24641 Michigan--Alaska (Prudhoe Bay)--Grand Canyon--Michigan RT 66: Chicago to Santa Monica Ubuntu: I am what I am because of who we are. |
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08-24-2007, 01:01 AM
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#5 |
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Motorcycle Connoisseur
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'ts quite a bit you've seen from the great mitten. Great report! Thoroughly enjoyed "reading it" Did you pick and choose photos or did you just not take that many?
If you ever come by lansing, or do any small adventures around here, please send me a PM! |
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08-24-2007, 04:15 AM
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#6 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: West Michigan
Oddometer: 283
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Quote:
Will PM you when I'm in Lansing area. Jacpod
__________________
BMWMOA # 127257 IBA# 24641 Michigan--Alaska (Prudhoe Bay)--Grand Canyon--Michigan RT 66: Chicago to Santa Monica Ubuntu: I am what I am because of who we are. |
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08-24-2007, 05:05 AM
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#7 |
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Minimum Speed Always
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Turin, Italy
Oddometer: 75
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Greath report...! THank's
__________________
I'm too young...to stop driving motorbikes Honda XRV750RD07A 1999 Honda CRF450X 2008 |
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08-24-2007, 12:16 PM
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#8 |
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Mo 2 C
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Michiganland
Oddometer: 401
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Great Report and Pictures
Really enjoyed your pictures. You have a good eye for composition.
Looks like everyone had a great time. I was in AK in June an took pictures of some of the same sights. H PS. If there is a part 2 to your report maybe you can consider using a more conventional format. Your wide angle script is tortureous to read. |
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08-29-2007, 09:56 AM
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#9 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Sunny Southern Utah
Oddometer: 397
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Great to see your report! Excellent job. I'm the guy you met in BC riding the TW (I've got a report somewhere in the list as well). I wish I'd have known that you were headed thru southern UT, I'd have had you stop by for a cold beer. Glad to see you made it home alright.
Todd
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"Animadvertuntur in desertis" TW Goes To Alaska Solo http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ght=utah+tw200 My Bike http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=tw200 (Sold )My New Bike (03/09) 2001 Tiger 955i - Fully Farkled |
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08-29-2007, 07:40 PM
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#10 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: West Michigan
Oddometer: 283
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Quote:
__________________
BMWMOA # 127257 IBA# 24641 Michigan--Alaska (Prudhoe Bay)--Grand Canyon--Michigan RT 66: Chicago to Santa Monica Ubuntu: I am what I am because of who we are. |
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08-30-2007, 01:41 PM
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#11 |
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Sr. nOOb
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Oddometer: 2,160
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Thank You
I keep telling my self, "One day"
Thanks for sharing..... |
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09-27-2007, 12:33 AM
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#12 |
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mild adventurer
Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Anchorage, Ak
Oddometer: 1,664
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Great report
Your report should be required reading for anyone asking questions about touring to Alaska.
Had you thrown in the Dempster and the Denali highways you would have ridden the best the state has to offer.
__________________
To someone with only a hammer - all problems appear to be nails. Ignoranus-def: someone who is stupid and an asshole. |
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10-14-2007, 08:50 AM
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#13 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: West Michigan
Oddometer: 283
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Quote:
I'm already dreaming of going back. This time not so rushed.
__________________
BMWMOA # 127257 IBA# 24641 Michigan--Alaska (Prudhoe Bay)--Grand Canyon--Michigan RT 66: Chicago to Santa Monica Ubuntu: I am what I am because of who we are. |
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12-09-2007, 08:53 AM
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#14 |
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Get Out and Ride!!
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Oddometer: 3,787
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Outstanding post. My favorite pic was this one:
![]() Nice write up too. Well done.
__________________
Ride your own ride & enjoy your ride. |
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12-09-2007, 05:48 PM
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#15 |
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Don't follow me, I'm lost
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Top notch !!
Wonderfull report and pics
One question, did the FZ6 in the 2nd pic make the trip ?? Neil.
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