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Old 08-30-2007, 04:04 PM   #16
SimpleSimon
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Nice write up! I just went through this exercise myself before a long ride last week. The only thing I didn't do was adjust the steering.
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Old 08-30-2007, 04:55 PM   #17
Brooklyn Rob
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Keith:
This is one of the coolest threads ever. We rock.

If you want, I could break some more shit for my 18k service. I'm sure our F650 brothers would eagerly await the next chapter of the saga.

P.S.: Couldn't you rig up some of your numerous bottlecaps as valve shims? They looked about the right size to me.

Rob
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:04 PM   #18
brewer90
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For future reference you don't need to remove the oil tank to drain it. Just put the bike on the sidestand and let it drain. The few extra drops you get out aren't worth the extra time. Of course you had to remove it anyway for the valve check.

Also you can pull the cams without having to remove the tensioner which will prevent you from having to take the whole damn bike apart. It takes a little patience to get the move just right but nowhere near as long as what you went through removing everything.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:04 PM   #19
Brooklyn Rob
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Hi Poops.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:16 PM   #20
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I might also suggest zip tying the cam sprockets to the cam chain befor removing from the cams that way going to gether is much easier and timing is not an issue. Also plugs should always be checked after the valves.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:17 PM   #21
brewer90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooklyn Rob
Hi Poops.
You consider that pooping on a thread? You've been around here long enough to know what poop looks like and suggestions on time savings isn't it.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:24 PM   #22
Hondo
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Once finished, this looks like a Hall of Wisdom thread.

Great writeup!
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:31 PM   #23
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hey rob, guess what got here about 20 mins ago?

the reason the tank is pulled is because in most shops, bikes are tied to lifts and its easier to remove it and let it hang then move the bike around.

the oil line can be worked around, but why? you run the risk of rounding the tensionor bolt out. which gives you alot more room to work when yanking out the cams.

why in gods green earth would i want to ziptie the sprockets to the cam chain? makes no sense. they gotta come out.

i am having alot of fun with this though. i have probably two more posts before i am finished.
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dakarboy screwed with this post 08-30-2007 at 05:36 PM
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:38 PM   #24
brewer90
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I see your point on the oil tank/lift.

You don't need to work around the oil line or even touch the cam chain tensioner bolt. Zip tie the cams to the cam chain so you don't lose your timing. Remove the cam carriers and set aside. Now wiggle the front cam until it comes loose. You now have enough room to replace the both the intake shims. Repeat on the back cam for the exhaust. I'll try to find a picture which will explain this better than I can.

Here is a pic
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:41 PM   #25
Brooklyn Rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewer90
You consider that pooping on a thread? You've been around here long enough to know what poop looks like and suggestions on time savings isn't it.
No need to get your knickers in a wad.
My message is to someone who knows who they are.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooklyn Rob
No need to get your knickers in a wad.
My message is to someone who knows who they are.
No problem. I thought your knickers were in a wad. Hi Poops whomever you are.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:44 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewer90
I see you point on the oil tank/lift.

You don't need to work around the oil line or even touch the cam chain tensioner bolt. Zip tie the cams to the cam chain so you don't lose your timing. Remove the cam carriers and set aside. Now wiggle the front cam until it comes loose. You now have enough room to replace the both the intake and exhaust shim and repeat on the back cam. I'll try to find a picture which will explain this better than I can.
the only time you should touch those bolts is if you are working on a central tunnel dohc 4 cyld. just pull the cams on singles and anything with side driven cams. and as for the timing, you put it together the way it came apart.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:47 PM   #28
Brooklyn Rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakarboy
hey rob, guess what got here about 20 mins ago?

the reason the tank is pulled is because in most shops, bikes are tied to lifts and its easier to remove it and let it hang then move the bike around.

the oil line can be worked around, but why? you run the risk of rounding the tensionor bolt out. which gives you alot more room to work when yanking out the cams.

why in gods green earth would i want to ziptie the sprockets to the cam chain? makes no sense. they gotta come out.

i am having alot of fun with this though. i have probably two more posts before i am finished.
Those brown shirted assholes!
Wait, I seem to recall another group of a holes in brown shirts...
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Old 08-30-2007, 06:14 PM   #29
dakarboy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooklyn Rob
Those brown shirted assholes!
Wait, I seem to recall another group of a holes in brown shirts...
you lost me rob.....

did you still want to come over and wrap this up? we might be done by two or three pessimistacally, midnight optimistically....damn, two big words back to back did i spell em right jeb?
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Old 08-30-2007, 06:17 PM   #30
dakarboy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooklyn Rob
Those brown shirted assholes!
Wait, I seem to recall another group of a holes in brown shirts...
oh, i just got it. a little slow on the uptake...
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