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Old 06-12-2013, 09:05 AM   #2761
TexBiker
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: East Texas
Oddometer: 815
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zim View Post
For those with Mefo Explorers, what are you running them at? The Sherpa's recommended 21 front, 21-25 rear? Have you aired down at all?
We run ours at 24F/26R. Never air down since we don't ride off-road. Just pavement/gravel/packed dirt roads.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:54 AM   #2762
Rey & Vann
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Location: So Cal Inland Empire for now
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Cycle Rack brand Sherpa rack for sale

Hey everyone,

I picked up another Sherpa a few weeks ago, and the PO (original owner) had purchased a Cycleracks rear rack, out it on and ran up a total of 260 miles on the bike, decided he preferred his ST over the Sherpa and garaged it.

The bike is mint, but I don't want the rack. It's 199.00 + shipping from the manufacturer. I'll pass it on for $150.00 + shipping via cheapest manner.

I realize this should go in classifieds, but it'll sit there forever, and since it's specific only to our bikes, I've put it in here.

From Cycleracks Sherpa rack


Best regards,
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:28 PM   #2763
NCJ
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Location: Troutman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rey & Vann View Post
Hey everyone,

I picked up another Sherpa a few weeks ago, and the PO (original owner) had purchased a Cycleracks rear rack, out it on and ran up a total of 260 miles on the bike, decided he preferred his ST over the Sherpa and garaged it.

The bike is mint, but I don't want the rack. It's 199.00 + shipping from the manufacturer. I'll pass it on for $150.00 + shipping via cheapest manner.

I realize this should go in classifieds, but it'll sit there forever, and since it's specific only to our bikes, I've put it in here.

From Cycleracks Sherpa rack


Best regards,
PM sent.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:26 PM   #2764
PaulX
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Oregon
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I found an SAE bolt on my bike, the one that holds the bash plate on, just in front of the engine. I want to confirm this is wrong. I suspect the right threads are the same size as (for example) the screws that hold the size panels on; could someone check for me?

I could just run a metric tap that same size into those threads, maybe that will work. Or I could drill it to the next size up and tap it for that size.

Or I could just leave it alone! I have already ground the head of that bolt so I don't need to carry a special SAE tool just for that bolt. But somehow, it offends me.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:34 PM   #2765
PaulX
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Design for a rear rack

I have been fooling around with a rack idea for a while. I decided not to proceed because of the cost of experimenting and the fact I don't weld, but I wanted to dump my idea here in case others want to take this idea and run with it. If someone does, I may buy from him if he's selling.

My idea is to eliminate the rear (outer) fender. The new rack will take its place.

The first two pieces are aluminim plates, about 4" wide and a length that goes from under the back of the seat to the back of the bike. These are mounted to the three threaded holes on each side of the rear subframe, two for the handles and the rear being the very last bolts in the subframe. There will need to be spacers made and longer bolts used, to bring the plate a bit away from the frame and to make the holes line up in one plane. The top edge of the plate should tuck just under the seat rear corners and be approximately horizontal when you are seated.

The next piece is a plate, the horizontal top surface of the rack. It can either be placed within the two verticals, giving a long fairly narrow rack with the vertical plates forming edges to prevent stuff rolling off the side; or it can sit on top of the verticals, tucked under the rear edge of the seat and extending out to whatever width is desired. Some aluminum angle can be used to connect the top plate with the verticals; after finishing up they could be welded together for more strength.

An optional addition could be two more vertical plates at the outside edge of the top plate if the latter is made wide. The reason would be to provide an edge to prevent things sliding off the top plate, and to cover the muffler. With the muffler covered, saddlebags will work. Additionally under the left side, another tubular container can easily be mounted for tools and so forth, just as we have seen people do in this thread. Or the rectangle could be completed making a square cavity with a locking door.

Of course tail lights and turn signals and a license plate mount will need to be added, but that should be easy to do, and out of the way of any surfaces that hold baggage. It also invites use of some brighter more attention-getting lighting.

I think the whole thing can be done with something like 1/8" aluminum plate. I don't have a lot of this stuff laying around (don't have any in fact) and it is kinda expensive bought retail. I now see why people use steel, heh. But maybe someone has a cheap source for it and can play with this idea.

I wonder why manufacturers don't sell their dual-sport bikes with this stuff as standard? It would vastly increase the utility of the bike. I guess they are into selling toys, though...
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:56 PM   #2766
Hawk62cj5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulX View Post
I wonder why manufacturers don't sell their dual-sport bikes with this stuff as standard? It would vastly increase the utility of the bike. I guess they are into selling toys, though...

Actually Kawasaki had a factory rack for our sherpas here in the states and down under they have the stockman racks and accessories.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:10 PM   #2767
TexBiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk62cj5 View Post
Actually Kawasaki had a factory rack for our sherpas here in the states and down under they have the stockman racks and accessories.
Yep, both our Sherpas came with the OEM rack from Kawasaki. Looks like the Stockman rack is the same unit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulX
I found an SAE bolt on my bike, the one that holds the bash plate on, just in front of the engine. I want to confirm this is wrong. I suspect the right threads are the same size as (for example) the screws that hold the size panels on; could someone check for me?
On our Sherpas, the skid plate is attached with an 8mm bolt. Not sure of the thread. I have the factory service manual out in the garage. I'll check it later and see if it's mentioned.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:51 PM   #2768
Sequoia
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Indiana
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Well I ordered a new high mount Acerbis Front fender & I actually found it in Silver, it took some searching but there might still be a few out there. Acerbis has discontinued silver for this fender but I don't know if they've discontinued silver all together. It's a Supermoto fender.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:01 PM   #2769
Sequoia
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulX View Post
I have been fooling around with a rack idea for a while. I decided not to proceed because of the cost of experimenting and the fact I don't weld, but I wanted to dump my idea here in case others want to take this idea and run with it. If someone does, I may buy from him if he's selling.

My idea is to eliminate the rear (outer) fender. The new rack will take its place.

The first two pieces are aluminim plates, about 4" wide and a length that goes from under the back of the seat to the back of the bike. These are mounted to the three threaded holes on each side of the rear subframe, two for the handles and the rear being the very last bolts in the subframe. There will need to be spacers made and longer bolts used, to bring the plate a bit away from the frame and to make the holes line up in one plane. The top edge of the plate should tuck just under the seat rear corners and be approximately horizontal when you are seated.

The next piece is a plate, the horizontal top surface of the rack. It can either be placed within the two verticals, giving a long fairly narrow rack with the vertical plates forming edges to prevent stuff rolling off the side; or it can sit on top of the verticals, tucked under the rear edge of the seat and extending out to whatever width is desired. Some aluminum angle can be used to connect the top plate with the verticals; after finishing up they could be welded together for more strength.

An optional addition could be two more vertical plates at the outside edge of the top plate if the latter is made wide. The reason would be to provide an edge to prevent things sliding off the top plate, and to cover the muffler. With the muffler covered, saddlebags will work. Additionally under the left side, another tubular container can easily be mounted for tools and so forth, just as we have seen people do in this thread. Or the rectangle could be completed making a square cavity with a locking door.

Of course tail lights and turn signals and a license plate mount will need to be added, but that should be easy to do, and out of the way of any surfaces that hold baggage. It also invites use of some brighter more attention-getting lighting.

I think the whole thing can be done with something like 1/8" aluminum plate. I don't have a lot of this stuff laying around (don't have any in fact) and it is kinda expensive bought retail. I now see why people use steel, heh. But maybe someone has a cheap source for it and can play with this idea.

I wonder why manufacturers don't sell their dual-sport bikes with this stuff as standard? It would vastly increase the utility of the bike. I guess they are into selling toys, though...
I was reading your post and thought I'd tell you I made a custom rack for my bike, if you look back around pages 97 & 98 or so you can see it. I'm thinking of making one a bit different. I still use my rear fender but I did make some custom mounts for the rack that bolt on under the fender. I removed the grab handles since I don't have passengers anyway & that's where I mounted the aluminum mounts for the rack. I'll take some pics of the mounts & post them later.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:10 PM   #2770
Sequoia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk62cj5 View Post
The red would look alot better if they would have left the frame ,kick stand , brake light assembly and swing arm factory colors then maybe added some sort of graphic or striping on the tank . The 705s look more aggressive than I thought they would .

If it was mine I would clean the paint off the tail light , paint the frame back black ( if you going to go OD you were most likely going to do this any way) and paint the swing arm . then get a cheap roll of silver and or black pin striping and dress up the tank , I think it would be sharp if you could tie the red black and sliver in on the tank .... just thinking out loud


Oh BTW Im a big fan of OD .... just look my avatar , that was bright red when I got it also .
Just a thought, but I was thinking if you painted the swingarm black it might look a bit better. It might offset the red a little, you'd have a black front fender, seat & swingarm spaced somewhat evenly apart.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:04 AM   #2771
Rey & Vann
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Location: So Cal Inland Empire for now
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I don't think they'll go on easily without the perches. If you have a cycle gear nearby, they have decent handguards and put them on sale just about every other month for half off. They have both styles with the aluminum brace and without. I have them on a couple of Sherpas and the work fantastic.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:24 PM   #2772
Hawk62cj5
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Location: Southern Va
Oddometer: 574
R&V how many sherpas do yall have currently ?
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:32 AM   #2773
TexBiker
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Location: East Texas
Oddometer: 815
Quote:
Originally Posted by westernsloper View Post
I'm looking for some hand guards for my Sherpa. I was wondering if anyone has put stock pre-2008 KLR650 hand guards on their bike. I don't know how the KLR hand guards attach.... does anyone know if they would be compatible? Or would there be drilling involved?
We had KLR650 handguards on our Sherpas for a few years, but they never fit quite right. Had to do some drilling and other "engineering" to get them to stay put. Did a decent job of keeping rocks/bugs off our hands, but pretty useless for lever protection.

Ended up replacing them with Tusk aluminum handguards from Rocky Mountain. Much more protection and only $30. You can add plastic screens if you need more coverage.

I don't have a great picture of them, but you can see them in this photo of my Sherpa.

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Old 06-16-2013, 07:40 AM   #2774
majorpayne
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Regular rox risers or the anti-vibe kind? Can't decide.

Oh, and I just put on moose handguards. I assume they are much like the tusks. Cheap and work well.
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Old 06-16-2013, 03:29 PM   #2775
Dual Sport Armory
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Location: Shenandoah Valley, Va
Oddometer: 171
We found a used Super Sherpa to add to our stable, Using it as a chase vehicle
Was going to trick it out, but can't seem to stop riding little DS bike, that is more fun than it should be


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