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Old 08-23-2013, 10:09 AM   #2956
Nonja
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Joined: Jun 2013
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Oddometer: 18
Rear tire, chain, and sprocket issue

Hey guys,

New rider and Sherpa owner here. I bought an '03 Sherpa from an inmate a few months back and he had it outfitted with a set of Scorpion XC's which are way knobbier than what I need. So based on the recent posts and reviews on Revzilla, I'm thinking about getting a set Shinko 244's since I'll mainly be riding around town and there aren't many off road trails that I know of yet (Central FL on the East coast...flat as hell).

Anyway, I went to tighten my chain and seem to have run into a problem stated in an earlier post. I'm wondering if switching from the Scorpion 110/100-18 to the Shinko 244 4.10-18 will fix the rear tire interference issue without having to move to a larger rear sprocket?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:11 AM   #2957
MushNB
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Thanks for the info. I do plan on doing a full oil change once I get the parts in, but in the interim I need to get it over for a safety check and wanted to make sure I wasn't doing any damage just by topping it up, which it sounds like I am good to go. I have a buddy coming by tonight as well so more eyes/people to tilt the bike and look through the window is good as I also don't want it over filled if it is already too full! Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertTortoise View Post
Hot and cold measurements are going to be different. With the bike upright (and turned OFF) you should be able to see oil 'between the lines' in the sight glass. I had to really tip the bike toward me on the sherpa I just got to see any oil at all, so I added oil while I'm waiting to get a new filter.

Best thing to do it change the oil and then you'll know :) basic motorcycle maintenance is really easy (youtube)

Congratulations on your first bike. Great choice!
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:37 PM   #2958
DesertTortoise
Freedom Fighter
 
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Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by MushNB View Post
Thanks for the info. I do plan on doing a full oil change once I get the parts in, but in the interim I need to get it over for a safety check and wanted to make sure I wasn't doing any damage just by topping it up, which it sounds like I am good to go. I have a buddy coming by tonight as well so more eyes/people to tilt the bike and look through the window is good as I also don't want it over filled if it is already too full! Thanks again!
Just make sure its upright and you'll see the oil level 'settle' in the sight glass as you add. Don't know the secrets of the super sherpa yet, so maybe one of these guys can chime in as to the exact part of the sight glass you should fill to when the oil is cold.
Have fun :)
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:38 PM   #2959
Rye
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: KC
Oddometer: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonja View Post
Hey guys,

New rider and Sherpa owner here. I bought an '03 Sherpa from an inmate a few months back and he had it outfitted with a set of Scorpion XC's which are way knobbier than what I need. So based on the recent posts and reviews on Revzilla, I'm thinking about getting a set Shinko 244's since I'll mainly be riding around town and there aren't many off road trails that I know of yet (Central FL on the East coast...flat as hell).

Anyway, I went to tighten my chain and seem to have run into a problem stated in an earlier post. I'm wondering if switching from the Scorpion 110/100-18 to the Shinko 244 4.10-18 will fix the rear tire interference issue without having to move to a larger rear sprocket?

Thanks in advance.
Well, a 110/100 should mean basicly 4.3" wide and 4.3" tall sidewall if I'm not mistaken, pretty big. 4.10 is stock size. Should fit fine with a 14 or 13 tooth front sprocket. A bigger front sprocket will bring the rear tire further forward since it has a larger circumference sprocket to go around.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:38 PM   #2960
810H4Z4RD
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: NE Wyoming
Oddometer: 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by MushNB View Post
Thanks for the info. I do plan on doing a full oil change once I get the parts in, but in the interim I need to get it over for a safety check and wanted to make sure I wasn't doing any damage just by topping it up, which it sounds like I am good to go. I have a buddy coming by tonight as well so more eyes/people to tilt the bike and look through the window is good as I also don't want it over filled if it is already too full! Thanks again!
My oil level doesn't seem to change noticeably hot vs. cold, but you should be ok with a level at or slightly above center when cold. When i bought my SS the level was right at the top line cold and i've not seen any adverse effects.

As for checking it level just put a couple 2x4s under the stand.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:46 PM   #2961
810H4Z4RD
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: NE Wyoming
Oddometer: 89
Front tire slide

Rode a couple hundred miles of dirt and gravel over the weekend, and noticed that in any semi-deep / loose gravel my front wheel would slide out during even moderate turns. On dirt (loose or packed), pavement or shallow / packed gravel all is well. Tire pressure seems ok and i don't have reason to suspect the suspension ... could it just be that i'm still running the factory deathwings?
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:10 PM   #2962
majorpayne
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Oddometer: 222
Worked on my Sherpas rack system a little more today:



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Old 08-23-2013, 04:30 PM   #2963
MushNB
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Joined: Jul 2012
Oddometer: 34
Thanks for the tip. Just went out and did that and the oil level is fine, although a bit low, its in range. Will still do the oil change but good to know he level is fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 810H4Z4RD View Post
My oil level doesn't seem to change noticeably hot vs. cold, but you should be ok with a level at or slightly above center when cold. When i bought my SS the level was right at the top line cold and i've not seen any adverse effects.

As for checking it level just put a couple 2x4s under the stand.
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:57 PM   #2964
Nonja
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Joined: Jun 2013
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Oddometer: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rye View Post
Well, a 110/100 should mean basicly 4.3" wide and 4.3" tall sidewall if I'm not mistaken, pretty big. 4.10 is stock size. Should fit fine with a 14 or 13 tooth front sprocket. A bigger front sprocket will bring the rear tire further forward since it has a larger circumference sprocket to go around.
Ah, ok. Thanks! That'll save me some cash.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:19 PM   #2965
SkiFly01
Govna Racepipe
 
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Gainesville, FL
Oddometer: 574
Still digging into the starter grinding issue I have with mine. Finally found the correct bolt to remove the flywheel since there was no real info out on this. The motion pro and bike master tools that are spec'd for the Super Sherpa are incorrect using an M18x1.5mm R.H. thread. What does fit is spec'd for the the KLR250 using an M20x1.5mm R.H. thread bolt. This one was found on Amazon Prime for $9.74, Motion Pro part#08-0086.

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Old 08-24-2013, 05:39 AM   #2966
duanew1
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL
Oddometer: 744
Quote:
Originally Posted by 810H4Z4RD View Post
Rode a couple hundred miles of dirt and gravel over the weekend, and noticed that in any semi-deep / loose gravel my front wheel would slide out during even moderate turns. On dirt (loose or packed), pavement or shallow / packed gravel all is well. Tire pressure seems ok and i don't have reason to suspect the suspension ... could it just be that i'm still running the factory deathwings?

Yes. They are not the best tire for off road.
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:07 PM   #2967
majorpayne
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Oddometer: 222
Found a solution that I like better in regards to adding preload to the front forks. Instead of the PVC mod which only adds preload, reducing travel, I found some valve springs I had lying around. The primary spring is very similar (with my non-scientific five-finger gauge) to the size and stiffness of the fork springs. The difference is that there are also smaller inner springs that nest inside the larger ones...AND the retainers, which couple the springs together, are the perfect size to fit in the tubes.

Heres a pic of the stock washer that sits at the top of the fork:



This shows the spring with the stock washer...perfect size!



Here's a pic of the inner, outer, and retainers:



And a pic of the springs together with retainers on each end....ready to drop into the forks on top of the stock spring:



Got them installed and I really like the outcome. It lifts up the front end, obviously adding preload. When I lifted the front of the bike before, the forks would droop a little before lifting off the ground. Now they lift right off, so that slack is gone. Does feel a little stiffer, but the added springs should give where the PVC wouldn't. Haven't ridden on it yet but based off of sitting on it it feels good.

If anyone is interested in a set to try out let me know and I'll send some your way.
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:00 PM   #2968
ChicoProf
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Joined: Aug 2013
Location: Chico, CA
Oddometer: 168
Idle issue, carb cleaned and jetted, new gas leak?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LilGreenBooger View Post
This is a video on how to do it on a KLR650 - I know it's not the same bike, but having owned both bikes, I can tell you it's similar enough.....
good luck, and don't lose anything!! might be wise to take some snapshots after you do every step of disassembly so that you can refer to them when re-assembling.
Well, I didn't lose anything ... Not yet sure what I might have fixed, either. Figured if I was going to do this, I should re-jet too. Picked up the Dr. Jekle recommended jets from a local Kawi dealer, watched the videos, looked at images of Sherpas undergoing this procedure, ran back to the store for the correct pilot jet when it turned out they'd sold me the wrong one, got it all put back together by some miracle, and it fired right up. The carb was really pretty clean, though, to my untrained eye.

Unfortunately, I discovered gas now leaking from around the petcock valve area. I thought I was gentle when I set the tank aside, so not sure what's going on. Leak doesn't seem to be coming directly from the gas line connect or the little vacuum tube, but the valve more generally. If I disconnect the two hoses, plug the end of the gas outlet with my finger, and turn the valve to prime, gas seems to be weeping. Time to call it a night here, so will take a fresh look in the morning.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:43 AM   #2969
Sequoia
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Indiana
Oddometer: 245
Quote:
Originally Posted by majorpayne View Post
Worked on my Sherpas rack system a little more today:



I noticed you're kind of copying the muffler side & trying to make it look symmetrical. I like the idea. can't wait to see it finished.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:36 AM   #2970
ChicoProf
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Joined: Aug 2013
Location: Chico, CA
Oddometer: 168
Petcock leak

Read through enough of the Yahoo group files to realize (ok, my mechanically-inclined 80-year-old father figured it out first) that I am seeing a common problem with the vacuum petcock on Sherpas; it has failed, and isn't worth repairing. I've got a manual one (no vacuum plus "off" position) on order (Yamaha 23F-24500-11, $20), but it won't get here for three days. Still, I think this may be the root of my idling trouble and "stuttering" under lower rpm. With luck I'll be riding again by Saturday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicoProf View Post
Well, I didn't lose anything ... Not yet sure what I might have fixed, either. Figured if I was going to do this, I should re-jet too. Picked up the Dr. Jekle recommended jets from a local Kawi dealer, watched the videos, looked at images of Sherpas undergoing this procedure, ran back to the store for the correct pilot jet when it turned out they'd sold me the wrong one, got it all put back together by some miracle, and it fired right up. The carb was really pretty clean, though, to my untrained eye.

Unfortunately, I discovered gas now leaking from around the petcock valve area. I thought I was gentle when I set the tank aside, so not sure what's going on. Leak doesn't seem to be coming directly from the gas line connect or the little vacuum tube, but the valve more generally. If I disconnect the two hoses, plug the end of the gas outlet with my finger, and turn the valve to prime, gas seems to be weeping. Time to call it a night here, so will take a fresh look in the morning.
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