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Old 08-26-2008, 08:54 PM   #61
GS Mac
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Nebraska
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Tires

Ive been runnin cheng shin 858 on mine for about 8000 miles now. Fronts last 6k and the rears about 3500 miles. They handle great on road, never had em step out in corners wet or dry. Off road there good as well not so good in mud. I do about 70% street 20% gravel 10% dirt.. $85 a piar not bad.



Heres a pic of my 2001.
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:04 PM   #62
Dirtnadvil
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+1 on the Jeckle jet kit!!!

Mine ran like shit until I changed the jets and adjusted the carb
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:22 PM   #63
mike21b
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Location: Lititz / Lemoore (there's only one of each!)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz

PS. Mike21b, that site wants a login & password - you are obviously logged on automatic like.
OK, let's try it like this. Here is what's in the tool kit:

Item Part Number Part Name Quantity 2000 G4 2001 G5 2002 G6 2003 G7 Remarks


56007 56007-1408 TOOL-KIT11111

56008 56008-1075 BAG,TOOL11111

56019A 56019-120 THREE BOND TB1211,HT/RS,WHITE11111

92104 92104-1003 GASKET-LIQUID,TUBE,100G,BLACK11111

92106 92106-1001 GRIP-SCREW DRIVER11111

92107 92107-005 TOOL-DRIVER,#3PHILLIPS11111

92107A 92107-1051 TOOL-DRIVER,#2PHILLIPS&SLOT11111

92108 92108-011 TOOL-WRENCH,SPOKE11111

92110 92110-1148 TOOL-WRENCH,BOX END,22MM11111

92110A 92110-1152 TOOL-WRENCH,OPEN END,10X1211111

92110B 92110-1153 TOOL-WRENCH,OPEN END,14X1711111

92110C 92110-1160 TOOL-WRENCH,BOX,8&10MM11111

92110D 92110-1172 TOOL-WRENCH,BOX,16MM11111

92111 92111-1051 TOOL-BAR,BOX END WRENCH11111

92112 92112-1001 TOOL-PLIERS11111

92127 92127-003 TOOL-WRENCH,ALLEN,6MM11111
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:54 AM   #64
ny-wolcott
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Interesting mod work on your SS. Tell me how you mounted that plate over the muffler to keep stuff off it.

PS: I run Kenda 90/10 (trackmaster?). Seem to be great off and on the road, but do "howl" on pavement.



Quote:
Originally Posted by GS Mac

Heres a pic of my 2001.
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:13 AM   #65
Mayertb
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Sherepa gas tank

Hey GC Mac What tank you got on the Shepra?
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2001 Super Sherpa
2003 Super Shepra - sold
1993 Kawaski ZX 1100-sold WAY to fast notice next bike
1987 Yamaha FZ 750-sold
1985 Honda 500 intercepter-sold
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:16 AM   #66
mike21b
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GS Mac
Ive been runnin cheng shin 858 on mine for about 8000 miles now. Fronts last 6k and the rears about 3500 miles. They handle great on road, never had em step out in corners wet or dry. Off road there good as well not so good in mud. I do about 70% street 20% gravel 10% dirt.. $85 a piar not bad.
I have C858 on one of my KLRs. When I first got the rear (5.10 x 18) , it looks almost like a full knobby and I thought it looked pretty aggressive. It is aggressive, and does fine in mud, but I didn't give up much street-ability other than it wanders a bit on grooved highways. It won't corner like the Kenda K270 or IRC GP1, but it is better than I thought it would be.

It appears that the larger you go in size with the C858s, the more widely spaced the "knobs" are.

The Sherpa has GP1s and that seems to be the best combination for mostly street with an occaisional trail ride in the mix.
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:53 PM   #67
Twinsteel
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GS Mac: You got some 'splainin to do! On top of the other questions, what kinda rear rack and top box is that on your Sherp? And tell us how you modded the fairing please!
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:43 PM   #68
GS Mac
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Rat patrol Sherpa

Most of the mods (and theres alot of em) are home brew.

The Tank is an IMS 4gal made for a honda xr650. The shape fits well, but the mounting points dont work without some fab work. The stock rubber pucks where replaced with some pvc pipe end caps that I wrapped with inertube rubber. Then I used 1/4 threaded rod through the frame to hold them on. The rear mounting point I bent a piece of aluminium into a upside down U shape. That fit over the frame and bolts to the top engine mount. Its worked without any problems for about 5000 miles now. I get between 225-250 miles to a tank depending on my riding. The xr tank has a brass insert to hold the front of the seat down. This isnt needed on the Sherpa and just plain looked like hell. I used the mounting point to screw a cheep fannypack to the tank. It hides the poor seat to tank fit and I get a tankbag For under $20.


The Tailrack topbox and heatshield Kind of slowly morfed over time. The tail rack started as $15 worth of 1/8th inch aluminium I fabed up to hold a small motofitz bag. I really liked the motofitz exept its not waterproof. So i came across the box at colemans military surplus. Its a surplus aviator nightvision system box. $30 plus shipping. Great size for a topbox, holds a case of beer. (cube shape) Mostly I use the box for comuting crap then to hold my riding gear while im at work. The box comes with 6 compression clamps, I removed 4 and added hinges. As a waterproof test I filled it with 33 liters of water and doesnt leak. Good enough for me.
I added some straps inside the hinges to hold the lid while its open. And some tiedown points to the top. The mount is a dove tail cut in a plastic cutting board pined and paddle locked. Hope the pics help explain.









I liked em so much I put 3 on my DR.



The heat shield I added this spring. I use them to strap 2 sealine bags to the bike for a trip to Arkasas. Again I bent the aluminim and added the tiedowns. The rear tiedowns just go around the bag, the front goes from one heat shield around the bag over the seat to the other heat shield. That puts most of the wieght on the seat.



I had to move the rear turn signals. Aluminum is my friend.

The toolbox is a pelican box. Same mounting spot as factory.


The windscreen was just a scrap of acrilic I had in the shop, with a old piece of fuel line around it. Its adjustable and in the up most position it pushes the highway air blast up off my chest to the top of my shoulders. Thats all I wanted. Pre windscreen 71mpg was the best the bike ever did. I got as good as 81mpg with the screen. Im 6' 2" tall about 200lbs with gear. I think just getting all that air off my chest made a BIG diferance.
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Old 08-27-2008, 03:09 PM   #69
GS Mac
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Oh I forgot.

The boxes are tuff as hell too.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377624
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:20 PM   #70
Twinsteel
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Those are some terrific mods. Probably the nicest modded Sherpa I've seen, and I've been looking at lots lately since I just bought one and I'm huntin for ideas.

I'd like to see more pix of how you attach the top box to the rear rack, or maybe you can explain it in more detail.

BTW, found a link to those surplus boxes, in case anybody's interested. Lots other cool stuff on their site, too:

http://store.colemans.com/cart/aviat...num-p-260.html
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:38 PM   #71
GS Mac
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Box

Thanks I like homebrew farklin allmost as much as riding!

You could go as easy as some U bolts around the rack of your choice. I wanted mine to be easy to remove if I wanted to.








Hope this helps.
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Old 08-27-2008, 05:10 PM   #72
Randy
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Love that home brewed box mount. I may have to borrow that idea someday.

I also noticed that your seat has a "Corbinesque" shape to it. Did you do the mods yourself? Care to elaborate as to how you went about it? Are you happy with the way it turned out?
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:27 PM   #73
GS Mac
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Seat

Randy, Yup the seat is home brew as well.

The Sherpa seat was my first attempt at reshaping a seat. Its allday compfortable but to soft, its hard to shift your butt around on. I wish I would have raised the center so the seat was flat front to back and a little firmer. I may rework it ths winter. I have a friend that wants her seat reworked. So I may do both at the same time.

I picked up a blue foam camp sleeping pad at wallyworld,and a can of spray contact cement. Just cut strips of the foam and glue on to the sides of the stock seat one at a time. I used a belt sander with a 50 grit belt to do the shaping. I added 5 1/2 inch strips to the sides. That sounds like alot but you remove most of each strip shaping it before you add the next. If your good with the sander you can blend the blue foam to the existing foam so the seams wont show thru the seat fabric. If suck with the sander no sweat you can get 1/4 inch smoothing foam at the upholstry shop. If you REALLY SUCK they sell 1/2 inch as well.


My second atempt was on my DR and I nailed it! Nice and firm, neutral from front to rear. I added about 1 1/2 inches of hight in the low spot of the seat. Same method small piece in the lowest spot smooth, add another and so on..

A helpful hint. Keep the rear of the seat as thin as you can. If your at stock thickness there you can cover the seat with no seams and no wierd folds on the rear of the seat. I have a cheepy swinger staple gun and it worked fine.

Or you could do the shaping then pay the man to cover it but thats no fun.

Cost about $40..depending on what fabric you pick out.
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:44 PM   #74
Randy
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Thanks GS. I tend to be a tinkerer and home-brew/tight wad type myself so I can appreciate all of your well thought out mods. Believe it or not, I looked at the blue camping mat at WW just last week and wondered if it would be suitable for a seat rebuild. Did you use the same on your DR?

I know this is the SS thread so I want ask you to post pics of your DR here but have you posted any pics of it that show a good angle of your worked over seat?
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:58 PM   #75
GS Mac
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Randy

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