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Old 10-04-2007, 12:54 PM   #76
nerudarider
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der Tobe! I really enjoyed reading your report so far, especially about your impressions of riding in Turkey as well as around Crimea. I made a similar tour this summer and look forward to your story in Bulgaria and Romania...

All the best from nerudarider!
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Ida Mountain - Turkish west coast 2005
Moscow detour - Istanbul to Stockholm via Moscow 2006
Meteora Sunset - Istanbul to Larisa and back 2007
Historical Balkan - Istanbul to Stockholm via Belgrade, Budapest and Warsaw 2007
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Turkish Coastline - Riding in the Aegean and Mediterranean Coastline 2007
Heaven at the Gates of Hell - Chapadas in tropical Brazil 2008
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Old 10-04-2007, 03:17 PM   #77
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Fantastic report! Thank you!
Kurt
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:18 AM   #78
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Respect

Hello Tobe,
This is it what you're doing with your Cow. Looks pretty good.
But to set one thing in the right light:
Friendly people deserve to meet friendly people.
Keep on w-riding I enjoy your story.
And if your Cow runs in my direction with you on her neck she gets a .
And we......

Cheers ValyWei




ValyWei screwed with this post 10-05-2007 at 03:51 AM
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:09 AM   #79
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Tobey, can you tell us ignorant of German language folks what "Der Tobe" translates to?

Thanks again for the interesting report. Glad to hear your "pipes" were begining to work again...
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:24 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scumshine
Tobey, can you tell us ignorant of German language folks what "Der Tobe" translates to?

Thanks again for the interesting report. Glad to hear your "pipes" were begining to work again...
Hi.
there's nothing special about my nick name. DER is just the definite article THE.
TOBE derives from my real name TOBIAS.
make that toby > and that, shakespearean as it were, TO BE.
but still, it is pronounced german.

I never quite got why good old hamlet dindn't muse "to beer or not to beer. that's no question!"
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:54 PM   #81
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Day 24

I get up comparatively late and have one last extensive swim in the Black Sea. Today I am leaving the Sea in order to cross Bulgaria. You all knew that the parting day was bound to come...

Close to the city of Burgas I have one last look at the sea and it becomes clear that the adventure is beginning to wind down.

By accident I get on the motorway and have to stay on it for quite some kms as there aren't any exits and everything is fenced in...

When I am almost out of fuel the motorway suddenly ends in the middle of nowhere. I quench the thirst of my trusty steed at the next petrol station and ride basically all across Bulgaria in one day. The route I picked is fairly boring (that's the first time in the whole journey - It may well be that it's just me. I really AM saturated with impressions...)

In spite of being close to the border to Romania I decide to stay in Bulgaria for another night. As I can't seem to find two out of two campsites on the map the next lake is going to be mine. Or so I thought.
There is a speed boad race going on. And they have beer on draught


I'll just stay here and enjoy the show after I pitch my tent by the lake.
Dont even have to pay entrance or anything. Excellent!





Ahh. some reminiscence. A fine example of GDR car manufacturing.


The sign on top of that ambulance made me smile. It reads REANIMOBIL.


Camp at the race-lake.


349kms

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Old 10-06-2007, 05:47 AM   #82
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Day 25

The early bird...no, the early fisherman catches the fish. When I look out of my tent door at 6 in the morning the lake side is already crowded with people fishing.
So I have breakfast and pack "in foro publico".
The sky is a bit overcast so I have to close my jacket for the first time in weeks...
It is only a couple kms to the border. There are no border controls to speak of. Nevertheless, I do stop and have a nice chat with the officers as to which route to take...

After getting some Romanian money from the ATM I'm on my way north-west. The landscape is fairly flat. There must be some oil in the ground, though as there are hundreds of pumps scattered in the landscape...texas-like...




After a bit on the motorway I ride mostly on secondary roads passing some really beautifull little villages. Horse carriages are still omnipresent...


I pass the city of Pitesti and ride into the Carpathian mountains (Fagaras).




At a short stop I meet two Czech guys on GSs - they are headed for Istanbul. I'm a little envious

On I ride along a nice lake. There are roads along it on either side. I choose the dirt road for a change
After some kms I spot a nice place to make camp - no need to ride to the official campsite. (The official site is really crowded and dirty as I find out the next day)
The only problem with this spot here is the rather steep downhill pathway to get to the meadow...if the ground is wet tomorrow I'll never be able to ride up there. And it looks like rain.
Well, no risk no fun.

And indeed, just minutes after I have finished pitching the tent it begins to pour down. A nice mountain thunderstorm. Beautiful and a little scary so close by.

After the rain:


I am just about to start a little camp fire when my neighbours come to my tent and stop me. "We have fire! Come!"
They invite me for coffee and a beer and another one and maybe onother one...and they feed me and let me try their self-made schnapps. Delic-hick-ious.
We have a really nice evening at the fire. The son and the dughter in law even speak English. That helps enormously as my Romanian is a little "rusty" (no, it's inexistent)






ca. 240kms

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Old 10-08-2007, 04:07 AM   #83
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Day 26

Right after getting up I go down to the lake to wash. It's not as cold as I thought it would be.

When I am done packing I say good bye to my friends and face the first challange of the day: thad muddy path up to the road. But that, too, turns out to be less difficult than it looked yesterday... ahh well, I can live with that.
I ride a nice gravel road for some kms and pass the official lakeside campsite. Crowded and dirty. I'm really happy that I didn't spend the night there.

On to the pass road.


The landscape is really breathtaking. It's raining a little bit but nothing to seriously slow me down. (I am not going fast anyways )












In the upper left corner you see the altitude in meters.


The Transfagaras road is really amazing. It was built in socialist times as a pure prestige object to show what socialist economy and technology were able to fulfil. It doesn't even link two cities or anything. It's just there. And it's great for riding...

Lake at the top.


down on the other side.




A very Romanian picture.


I pass the city of Sibiu and after a beautiful if wet riding day I see a sign for a Campsite. Just in time.




Camp.


Nice company.


After dinner and a nice Romanian beer I want to go to bed when suddenly I hear/feel/see a "whooosh". My first Transsylvanian bat...or was it?


307kms

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Old 10-08-2007, 05:22 AM   #84
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Wunderbar, Tobe!


I really appreciate the "candid" pics of life in the different locales. More closeups of the Eastern Bloc beauties, though!


I'm guessing you've spent time in the US? Your command of the language is better than many native speakers.



Tschuess!
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:54 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackMule
I really appreciate the "candid" pics of life in the different locales. More closeups of the Eastern Bloc beauties, though!


I'm guessing you've spent time in the US?


Tschuess!
Thanks for the comments and compliment.
To be honest, I've never been to the US of A. But it's on my schedule. (I kind of have the dream of arriving on the left side, though - so I would have to ride to Vladivostok/Russia first )

But first I have to recover a bit financially. So we're speaking of two years time, insh'allah.

Till then I'll have to ride good old (and comparatively cheap) Europe.


Apropos "candid" photos - well, this is as good as it gets folks. Often I didn't dare to take pictures, not wanting to be too obtrusive...
As you know I went swimming in the Black Sea fairly often...I rarely took the camera out...I only had 5.5GB of memory cards with me if you know what I mean. I got to leave those pictures to your imagination...

bye
der tobe
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Old 10-08-2007, 10:53 AM   #86
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Day 27

The only camper on the campsite (that would be me) leaves at around 10 a.m.
I ride along a really beautiful little valley in the general direction of Hungary.



The boarder formalities are, again, almost inexistent. My only hungarian words, "Jo Napod" (good day), have the customs officer cracking up. He asks me in perfect German where I am from and where I am going and wishes me safe travels...must be a biker in his "real" (speak "adventurous") life.

The landscape in that area of Hungary is rather flat - but there is something about the so called Puszta.
It's not boredom - it's more like tranquility. Realy nice to ride.




Hungary is famous for its thermal springs. A nice little spa would be quite nice for my boxer-engine shaken bones...I find myself a nice and (slightly radioactive) pool and relax. Ahhh!

In the mean time a fairly impressive thunderstorm rolls up and I'll have to ride the last kms to Budapest in pouring rain.
Just when I enter the city the rain stops. (if you look closely you'll see a rainbow in the mirror...)


It's easy to find the bikercamp in Budapest. (I found that on the internet before I left.) Its really nice and not far away from the city center. Nothing more than a backyard, really, but with everithing the tired biker needs (chilled beer on a self serve basis.) Excellent.
http://www.bikercamp.hu/

There are even two other bikers on the site. They are from Bristol and ride basically all over Europe more or less planlessly

I ask them if they know a supermarket in the vicinity as I need to do some grocery shopping. They say that I shouldn't bother...and invite me for dinner. A perfectly cooked casserole made in their full size WOK...


'twas 408kms today.

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Old 10-09-2007, 10:53 AM   #87
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Day 28

BUDAPEST.

I had always wanted to see Budapest. So this day is not for riding but for a nice tour of the Hungarian capital. On foot of course. (I definitely need to do something about my fitness...or lack thereof )

There won't be much text today as I have forgotten most of the names of the places anyways...









I had a discussion going with my English friends from the camp site. Are these "peppers" or "paprika" ??


































What a beautiful city. I don't really know what it is about Hungarians but, damn, do they have some good looking women...
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:33 AM   #88
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Women? I hope you were not rude-pest in Budapest.
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:53 AM   #89
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Day 29

After a good breakfast and a nice chat with my English friends I begin to pack. They do too.


fittingly out of focus


Karl and Holly actually have no idea where they want to go today. I do. At least today I know where I will be in the evening: Vienna. (visiting friends I already had before this trip for a change )

After our good byes I dive into the Budapestian?, Budapestic?...tial?...the traffic of Budapest
It isn't as bad as I thought. Once I found the Danube river I ride all along it - basically up to Vienna. First I had the Black Sea as a means of orientation now it's one of Europe's longest rivers.






I pass the huge cathedral of Esztergom and the town of Györ, get soaked in another thunderstorm and look forward to the evening.




But before I enter Austria I'll have to get rid of my last Forints. I buy some tubes of delicious paprika-purree and find another nice thermal bath...Ahh. So relaxing.

When I get back to my bike on the parking lot the attendee hands me my helmet. He has cleanded it and polished my visor. Just so.
Kösönöm sepen!!

When I arrive in Vienna I am recieved like some kind of king. Klaus is preparing a delicious three-course meal. Martin opens the wine - what a life!


We have a genuinely nice evening. DANKE.


289kms

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Old 10-10-2007, 10:15 AM   #90
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Day 30

Ahh. Such decadence. Boiled eggs and real espresso for breakfast. No wonder Vienna is one of my favourite cities.

But still, I've got to leave.
The GPS leads me out of the city without problems. I am headed for the Czech Republic. The problem with areas that I seemingly know: I forget to take pictures...
On the border I don't even have to stop. That's one adventure less, due to the EU policy.

After the border I ride through nice landscapes until Cesky Krumlov. I had often heard of this medieval town and took in many of the sights...

















When I am finished strolling around the town I get back on the bike for the last leg of today's tour. I find a nice camp site on the lakeside of lake Lipno. The weather is not really what I am used to but I don't care - the nearby Restaurant serves Czech beer and Smazeny Syr (fried cheese). YUMMIE !!



230kms

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