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Old 10-27-2009, 02:02 PM   #1
fullgs OP
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Location: France, Paris
Oddometer: 32
Morroco, Mauritania, Senegal, Mali on a 1200GS

HI, i'm just coming back from a trip from france to Mali
here a copy of the blog I made. www.fabandamauryinafrica.unblog.fr in english and www.fabetamauryenafrique.unblog.fr en francais
sorry for the low resolution of the pix ,hope you won't mind, but to send them everyday from africa I had to reduce them a lot.
thanks to dakarblues, that made all the translation job.
First part:
presentation and goal of our trip:
From 09/26/09 to 10/26/09

Presentation

Fabienne (pillion)

34

Business Manager at TYCO Electronics


fabmtventoux.jpg


Amaury

36
Store manager Espace moto Saint-Ouen-l’Aumone (95)

We are married with 2 kids (5 and10)

dsc04471m.jpg

I am also a pilot in Road racing and Endurance

amaury Macau 2009

amaury 24H du Mans

We discovered Africa while on a trip to Senegal 4 years ago.

We fell in love immediately and it’s a regular destination since.

Being members of an association
, >ASTOU< , we are sponsoring kids in Mali and Senegal.

fabthiescentrealbinos.jpg


elwanrhyno.jpg

amauryjrmoussa.jpg

We felt like going back by bike for discovery of Senegal deep inside and the land of our godchild nearby Bamako.
Preparations

 Preparations

The trip is supposed to take a month, but preparing took us 10 months.

First, the bike, a 1200 BMW GS Adventure, fully equipped.

vercors.jpg

First mod was to upgrade the OEM rear shock with Ohlins, better quality and adjustable. Then fitting of Zega luggage from Touratech, sturdy and practical. Then a good quality

GPS, waterproof and practical, a Garmin 276 C where I could upload maps of Europe and Africa along with all needed waypoint and tracks. Against drops, the GS Adventure is outfitted with cylinder guards.I added the carbon protections on the cylinder heads.


List of modifications to the bike:

- Ohlins rear shock

- Zega luggage + rack,

- Topcase Givi 36 L

- Touratech tank panniers

- Low pilot Touratech saddle

- Decatted Leovince exhaust manifold

- MIVV exhaust

- Front arm (telelever) protection

- Cylinder head carbon fiber protection

- Radiator guard

- Headlight protection

- Sidestand extension

- Tank bag and card holder

- Touratech foam airfilter

- Iridium spark plugs


moto.jpg

Preparation of trip and bike wouldn’t have been possible without the support of the following sites and blogs:


barbouze photos


www.gsfr.info


papy et mamy en afrique

forum pasdegaspillagedevirage.com

July 22 2009

Tests in Vercors Verdon Gorges and Mount Ventoux

To test pilot and pillion we took a 3 days trip to Vercors, the Verdon gorges and mount Ventoux. Results, pilot saddle too hard, garments too warm and Zega luggage not that sturdy. I destroyed on on a very simple laydown at 20kmh. Anyway, Fabienne, not used to bike trips enjoyed it enormously.

gordes.jpg

La bataille pass

2colbatail.jpg
test in Corsica

08/10/09

Departing for Corsica for our second test

Mountains roads are narrow and sometimes on hillsides, like around Corte.

dsc0460650.jpg


dsc0459450.jpg


 Or even here between Corte and Ghisonaccia in the Sorba pass.

img590850.jpg

img590950.jpg

Or even here between Corte and Ghisonaccia in the Sorba pass.

Corsican road ghisoni ghisonaccia

Result, summer jacket would be more suitable, as well as light gloves. However the thicker OEM saddle thicker is as butt-numbing as the Touratech.
The Luggage

 08/21/09

Dilemma is to carry the least while having the most possible!

All in all I have:

- a left pannier 35 liters (10 kgs max)

- a left pannier 41 liters (12 kgs max)

- a top case 36 liters (8 kgs max)

- 2 smaller tank panniers


Their content:

- toolkit

- spare parts

- clothing

- sleeping bags

- first aid and toilet bag

- miscellaneous (phone, cameras, laptop, GPS, chargers, …)


I shouldn’t have volume issues, but I would like to keep the overall weight around 40 kgs.

Not warranted!!!

 tout.jpg


Missing here are clothing, first aid and toilet bag!


Here is the detail:


- 1. toolkit (9kgs)


outil.jpg

Just copied on
Barbouze , give or take.


- 2. Spare parts and fluids (4 kgs)

pieces.jpg

-3. clothing (4 kgs)

     2 pants, 3 changes, 1 sweater each

-4- Sleeping bags (6 kgs)

couchage.jpg

   2 downs, 2 mattresses, 2 mini pillows and a tent.

    Visible on the picture 2 Camelbacks and 2 compact towels.


-5. First aid and toilet bag (1.5 kg)

-6. Miscellaneous

I have weighted yet but it should be around 5 kgs.

It sums up to 32 kgs, not including hard luggage (2 panniers and 1 top case, 15 kgs.)

It’s too much indeed, but the 48 kgs of the passenger (on a weight gain diet) balance it.
The trip

 Departure planned for September 26 2009, from Paris


The first 1200 kms would be at night, but not by motorcycle!!!

The GSA will loaded on my pickup that I will leave at a firned’s residence in Barcelona.

(Not willing to inflict myself 1200 kms of nighttime ride on Karoo.

The boat leaves Barcelona Sunday September 27 for Tangiers (Morocco), ETA September 28 at 15h00.

Trip back home will take place end of October via Algeciras (Moroccan side of Gibraltar Straits), right up towards Barcelona whre pickup is waiting.

First stage is Marakech, taking residence at friends.

Then I planned the following stages,

in white going South

in blue the trip back North


-Marrakech         to  TanTan

-TanTan               to  Dakhla


-Dakhla                to  Nouakchott

-Nouakchott       to  St Louis

-St louis                to Saly

-Saly                     to  Tambacounda

-Tambacounda   to  Dindefélou

-Dindéfélou        to  Kayes

-Kayes                  to Bamako 


trajetparisbamako.jpg

 Some stages will certainly take too long, but we won’t turn down any supplementary ones.

We intend to spend a minimum time between Paris and Saint-Louis, Senegal, so we’ll have plenty of time to spend in Senegal and Mali.


THREE INEVITABLE STAGES

MEDINA GOUNAS - THIES – KOUROUBA

The road might seem lengthy, but we needed to pay a visit to our 3 godchildren.

Gora is a 12 years old boy, he lives in Medina-Gounass, a Dakar suburb.

dsc03597m.jpg

He lives in a slum, we might hustle to find him back there, an ounce of patience and a pound of luck. We are supporting him through the Association ASTOU www.astou.org. The human size of this association greatly eases the contact and we’ll enjoy meeting him again.

Seynabou is a 12 years old young girl, she lives in Thies 80 kms East of Dakar (The one on the left for simplicity sake).

dsc03297m.jpg


On our last visit her family offered us lodging with our kids. It will be easy to find our way there. We support her too, through ASTOU.

Moussa is a 13 years old boy, he lives in Kourouba 80 kms South of Bamako (Mali).

afrika2009scan.jpg

We support him through the Association PLAN

The sheer international scope of this NGO is such as it’s very difficult to get in touch with the local staff.


So the getting together with Moussa should be set up from the top dwon, through a special French service through PLAN France.

It’s as complicated as trying to get a Cuban visa (for Americans)

.

I was however able to get the address and phone number of a local PLAN staffer in Bamako. We’ll see…

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Macau GP 2009 #5 on a Triumph, 14 to 21 nov 2009
Macau GP 2008

Maroc, Mauritania, Senegal, Mali 2009

Burkina Faso 2010

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Old 10-27-2009, 02:08 PM   #2
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Wow!! Another great adventure ride through Africa!!

Thanks for the detailed intro and links to your blogs.. We hope you'll be able to update this thread with added pics and details

I've been perusing your blog and it's fantastic.. great pics and detailed report, et pour moi, je n'ai pas de difficulté à le lire.

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Old 10-27-2009, 02:13 PM   #3
fullgs OP
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part 2
On the road
Morroco
On the road

September 27 2009

We left Paris at 20h00, after much rain and fogwe were 200 kms from Barcelona at 6hr00 AM. Amaury was driving (just a one hr rest).


p1000038small.jpg

We’ll have some rest in the 25 hrs it takes the boat to reach Tangiers.

Thank you for your support (SMS and emails), we appreciated it very much.

It was difficult for me to leave the kids amd my parents, but I know they’are in good hands. See you.

Fab.

Time is up, we are on our way to Barcelona. Tahnk Cecile for your awesome welcome and your time.

p1000039small.jpg

We made it to the boat.

p1000040small.jpg

p1000051small.jpg

Since luck is in ample supply we even got a room with hot water. That’s luxury. Onboard, we were joined by Noelle, Fritz and Jacky (2 French and 1 German we met over the Internet before we departed), they are doing the same trip but with more time. 

After this day off, we’ll set foot on African soil in Tangiers, and then take off towards Marakech.
MOROCCO

September 28 2009

We beheld the famous Gibraltar Straits


GIBRALTAR

It comes at a surprise to find the two continents so close.

DETROIT DE GIBRALTAR

We set foot on African soil. Unfortunately we lost a lot a time in customs procedures, so we couldn’t start on our first satge (Marakech) as planned.

We found a very cool hostel

AUBERGE CASA

We had our first “tajine” in a local inn.

TAGINE CASA

Tomorrow stage wil be very long and tough, we are already 250 kms behind schedule.

Tuesday September 29 2009

Yes, we Tan



We were able to make up our delay through getting to Tan Tan via Marrakech and Agadir.

We were on the bike for 10hr30 with just a 30 mins pause, guess what, we had another great “tajine” for lunch.

p1000206small.jpg

We had a speedy wake-up, Amaury forgot to set up the timezone on his phone, he though it was 08h00 while in fact it was just 06h00.

So at 7h00 we were already ready to take off, but we stayed in till 08h00 at the inn.

We had hard time getting out off Casablanca because of horrible gridlocks downtown and some hectic driver behavior.

p1000136small.jpg

We beheld splendid vistas, all different.

 p1000260small.jpg


p1000188small.jpg

p1000153small.jpg

p1000202small.jpg

So far, we found Morocco to be very beautiful and we are amazed by the cleanliness around in this country.

We had our first two police roadblocks entering Tan Tan. They briefly verified our passports and let us go.

We arrived at an inn listed in the “Guide du Routard” (Michelin Guide sort of) at 19h30.

No power, no hot water nor Internet, but we had a broken window right by the local Mosque.

Our dinner tonight, Fish tajine + fruit tajine….

Tomorrow we depart for Dakhla 800 kms away, a tough day ahead indeed.

A great thanks to those who are caring for our kids, without them we wouldn’t be living this adventure.

Hug them on our behalf, we miss them so much.

Wednesday September 30 2009

Tan Tan – Dakhla – The Sahara

800kms through Western Sahara, magical.

motodesert.jpg



deser.jpg

We quietly took off around 9h00 after a good night.

Tan tan is really the last real city of Morocco.

From now on it’s just the desert, with evry now and then a city sprouted off the desert as by a magic wand, just like Las Vegas.

 laayoune.jpg

Very soon after departure we see the first sand dunes.

 routeensable.jpg

dunemoto.jpg

fabdune.jpg

Very often the road snakes by the seaside, sometimes barely skimming the cliff.

falaise.jpg

fabfalaise.jpg

We stopped to take a pic of the “Devil’s Hole”, and while I wa taking the photo, my helmet fell from the bike and stopped rolling 50 cms from the hole!

It got a large scratch, but it could have been worse.


troududiable.jpg


The road is smooth, but beware of what crosses it!

dromadaire1.jpg


dromadaire2.jpg

We might have been going 150 kmh (90 mph) all the way, past Tan Tan police is found only at the numerous checkpoints where one must systematically submit passport and information File, already prepared.

We arrived in Dakhla for the first time at 17h00 and we stopped at a campground for kitesurfers.



campdakhla.jpg


campdakhla2.jpg


When we arrived, there was over 100 kitesurfers in action, but not a single BMW.


After a super dinner, we went to bed early to get up at 07h30 so as to reach the mauritanianian frontier and pass the famous no-man’s land and maybe make it to Nouakchott.

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Maroc, Mauritania, Senegal, Mali 2009

Burkina Faso 2010

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Old 10-27-2009, 02:57 PM   #4
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Je vous conseille d'attendre un bout de temps et d'ajouter peu à peu pour attirer le plus grand nombre de lecteurs, comme a fait le bonhomme au sommet de cette page. Ensuite, je vais coller ce rapport là haut.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:27 PM   #5
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Nice one !!!

Nic
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:29 PM   #6
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Petit a petit

Ton voyage a été vraiment spécial Amaury, je n'ai encore jamais vu un récit comme celui-là, j'ai lu Sambor, CAcevedo, MetalJockey, TricePilot et bien d'autres, mais le niveau d'interconnection avec les populations, les aventures, la galère avec ta tendre moitié, ça c'est vraiment autre chose.

Tu m'as deja contaminé et je suis déjà en train de concocter comment je peux envoyer ma KTM 950 sur Tanger et descendre sur Dakar l'été prochain.
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:51 PM   #7
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This will be good.
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:52 PM   #8
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Ahh merde...

Maintenant je dois réfléchir mon Francais...


Merci pour les photo et la raconte... Je les trouve merveilleux!
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Old 10-27-2009, 06:45 PM   #9
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Thanks for the stickys on these Gadget Man.

Hate to miss this.
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Old 10-28-2009, 12:01 AM   #10
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10+ years ago.. have been there many times.....

Your RR sure brings back memories.... thank you

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Old 10-28-2009, 05:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwgs
Thanks for the stickys on these Gadget Man.

Hate to miss this.
With our exponential growth and our world-wide audience, these little gems tend to fall off the first page before they are fully appreciated.
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Old 10-28-2009, 11:52 AM   #12
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B E A U T I F U L

Thanks for you're detailed report!

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Old 10-28-2009, 01:02 PM   #13
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super, continue

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Old 10-29-2009, 04:26 AM   #14
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Excellent report
Pics look like a great time
Thanks
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:50 AM   #15
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Awesome.................
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