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Old 01-02-2015, 10:17 AM   #1
EricV OP
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A couple of Q's on engine re-install

Hi gang. I frequent a few other ADV forums but haven't used "The Garage" much- this seems like the right time. I hope someone doesn't mind providing some advice to someone somewhat mechanically impaired. :) Short back story: Something in my Husky TE630 engine broke loose and tore up the insides of the engine casings. Had to have engine case replaced, so engine was rebuilt (basically old/low mileage parts transplanted into the new casings, by a trusted Husky mechanic.) I'll be re-installing the engine over the next week or so- hoping to start tonight.

Once I get everything re-assembled I'll of course fill with coolant as much as I can. Should I hand turn the engine to get as much throughout the cooling system prior to an actual start? Seems a dumb question, I know, but this is the first time the engine will be started since the re-build so once/if it starts I wanna be able to run it for a few minutes straight to give it a good listen, etc. and not be too worried about coolant level.

If anyone has advice in general, on re-installing an engine, please let me know. Should be straightforward as I carefully marked everything. I'll be sure to change out the first oil pretty quick like just to make sure there's no debris from the rebuild (should be minimal as most internals are old/broken in parts.) Thanks!

Eric
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:32 AM   #2
SilkMoneyLove
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Turn by hand first

Use a socket or just pop the trans into the highest gear and turn the rear wheel to get the engine to turn over. Listen and feel carefully. You want everything to sound good and you want to feel good compression (put the plug in for that) and have it be smooth. No clunking or banging or "hanging up" and to make it easy on yourself, take out the spark plug.

Yes, fill all the fluids as best as you can to spec. Turn the engine over a bunch of times by hand first, without the plug in it.

Also, when you fire it up the first time, it is likely to smoke like something is wrong. Do not worry, this is all the oil that was used to put parts back together just burning off. That said, you will want the garage door open for that first running of the new engine.

That is just my advice having rebuilt a handful of bikes enignes. You actually seem to know what you are doing, so just take some time and enjoy your rebuilt bike!
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Old 01-02-2015, 12:01 PM   #3
mminob
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Air Pockets...

Some motors are a little hard to bleed the air pockets out of all the coolant system...that is to say be sure you keep checking the level as the motor heats up and the thermostat opens and the water pump can move the air out...
My Husky 610sm needed some time to get all the bubbles out...
My DRZ has a air bleed bolt on top of the rad tank to help some...
Then after cool down you need to check again...
Can you share some details on your motor problem... cam chain ??
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:08 PM   #4
EricV OP
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Thanks guys- this is all very helpful guidance. Should I be overly concerned about what coolant I use? I have some blue BMW brand stuff that my neighbor gave me. I'll also read up on coolant prior to filling, and of course look at my owners manual to see what it calls for.

mmninob: It's apparently a fluke like thing. As hot as I was about it initially I've sort of relaxed into the mindset of "eh, I'm not gonna bash the brand as flukey things can happen with any bike." That's not been easy esp during the holidays- it's cost around 2 grand so far. :) Anyway, the bike had 8900 very well maintained miles on it when it grenaded. As you know there's a little metal oil screen under the RH side engine cover, and the little hard end piece of that came loose/off and spun throughout my lower end, causing not only multiple cracks inside the case, but also a punch out through the bottom of the case. The mechanic and myself agree that it's a small miracle it didn't do any real damage to the internal components of the engine, nor the top end. Most of the cost was in the case (both halves only sold as a set, lists for 1200.) I did have 'em replace the timing chain since it would be due soon enough anyway and they were in there.

Thanks again guys- if anyone else has pointers that help me avoid screwing anything up that's appreciated.

Eric
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:02 PM   #5
larryboy
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My 2007 did the same thing, but I was in the habit of pulling the right side cover after every major ride and caught it right away.




The cooling system bleeds easy on the 610/630, fill it up, ride it up to temp, then check and fill as needed.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:10 PM   #6
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Good God LarryBoy...you've no idea how helpful this is (well, and also disconcerting.) You see, ever since the mechanic told me that this is what happened I have been hunting like mad trying to find a pic of this screen. The issue, for me, has been wondering if the culprit end of the screen actually has a solid like end to it...and it appears it does. All pics in the shop manual and parts fiche are too simple and sketch like- no detail at all.

So it's funny you posted this. I was literally (like when you posted this) back into endless searching for a pic of one. It is scary to hear that this has happened to you also- I now know first hand how catastrophic it can end. Most everyone on Cafe Husky (the 610/630 forum) don't even pull that screen as it's inconvenient to do so and they always seem to be clean. I'll post back over there now with a reminder to check these things.

Thanks fella-

Eric

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Old 01-02-2015, 04:46 PM   #7
larryboy
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Glad I could help, Eric.




I only rode that bike five or six times, 20,000 miles.

Wore out the clutch basket bushing in 7,000 miles, learned that the right side cover gasket was reusable so I would tear down the right side after every ride for inspection, any wobble slash runout in the clutch basket and it'd get a new bushing and of course check the screen. my theory is that debris from the torn up reed valve hit it and broke it, but so much for that since the 630 doesn't have the sudden cam chain wear like the 610 did...I hope? Did your mechanic mention the reed valve while he was in there?
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Old 01-03-2015, 08:33 AM   #8
EricV OP
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He didn't mention the reed valve, and duh on me, I didn't think to ask as the 630 set up does largely eliminate the chain/reed concern. I did post this up on cafehusky and, as it turns out, another rider has also had a failed screen. So while it's not common it's not unheard of either. Pretty disconcerting.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:38 PM   #9
Geekventure
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Question DESTINY and that Fing filter screen!

BUMP TO "Husqvarna TE630" THREAD...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=4405
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