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Old 02-08-2012, 08:39 PM   #436
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Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
gonna try 598 - solvent for it? on second thought isn't 598 just black rtv? is there a perhaps better product i can use???
Methylene Chloride will remove it, any paint, and even your skin.

598 will be fine for your application.
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:42 PM   #437
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Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
I personally use 515. It seals perfectly, and I build Brit engines that don't leak a drop.
I use it as well, but the cases were leaking at the gasket and he sounded like he wanted a short term leak fix so he wouldn't have to split the cases.

If you go the route of splitting the cases-then use 515 or 518 as a gasket material.

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Old 02-08-2012, 08:58 PM   #438
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Originally Posted by D.T. View Post
I gotta Q for DS. We are using loctite for some high speed steel bushings into aluminum. The aluminum is worn. We tried red 272 loctite and a few bushings made their way out of place. We have some 620 green stuff and I tried that. I used the primer first on both surfaces too (glass bottle with top brush).

What should work best? Another suggestion?
272 is intended for use on mechancial thread engagement-620 is meant for cylindrical engagement (bearing fits).

If the steel bushings will hold a magnet-no need for a primer if you can let the assembly sit for at least 12 hours before use.

Primer can speed the cure to the point that for really small gaps of say half a mil to a mil, the parts will begin to fixture before you even get them in proper position. Consider yourself warned.

The worst story I've dealt with involving misapplication of a primer was from a shop trying to fit a 150 lb bearing with a 6" ID and a 4" cross section paper roll bearing with a half mil slip fit. I had just conducted a Loctite workshop a few days before and they started priming the crap out of everything. They used one of the higher viscosity retaining compounds which tend to fixture more quickly. With the bearing held in a sling, they started to fit the bearing onto the shaft, they slipped about half of it onto the shaft before it fixtured-it stuck itself halfway on the shaft. Then I got the panicked midnight phone call.

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Old 02-13-2012, 09:47 AM   #439
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Loctite for grounding screws

Is there any problem using Loctite 222 for 3 mm screws that are used to ground a circuit board to an aluminum chassis?
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:54 AM   #440
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Quick question(s) on the primer? May have been answered before but not much time to read today.

I have here the 7649 Primer (P.N.21347) came with my Loctite 518 "Master Gasket Kit". Great stuff BTW.....tamed them BMW leaks,one more to go!

Looks like that primer is also suggested for the thread lockers in cold applications???

Is there something similar that would work with both the flange sealers (518 etc) and thread lockers/sealers and comes in a bottle instead of the aerosol???

Thanks!
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Old 02-13-2012, 03:05 PM   #441
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Originally Posted by GSWayne View Post
Is there any problem using Loctite 222 for 3 mm screws that are used to ground a circuit board to an aluminum chassis?
Perfect choice...as long as the screw is some sort of metal screwing into some sort of metal.

We developed 222, a low strength threadlocker, years back because a very large eye glasses mfg. was getting eaten alive by warranty claims due to the screws which held the temple pieces onto the frames kept loosening. This type of warranty claim dropped to zero and they were happy.

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Old 02-13-2012, 03:10 PM   #442
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Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
Quick question(s) on the primer? May have been answered before but not much time to read today.

I have here the 7649 Primer (P.N.21347) came with my Loctite 518 "Master Gasket Kit". Great stuff BTW.....tamed them BMW leaks,one more to go!

Looks like that primer is also suggested for the thread lockers in cold applications???

Is there something similar that would work with both the flange sealers (518 etc) and thread lockers/sealers and comes in a bottle instead of the aerosol???

Thanks!
7649 Primer N works on all anaerobic products (threadlockers, thread sealants, gasket eliminators, retaining compounds) No need to buy anything else.

I was about to say forego the primer in cold temperatures. But your cold and my cold are worlds apart-being in BC vs. Sub-Tropical South Louisiana.

Use of a primer in cold temperatures sort of kick starts the curing process. In super duper uber-cold climates, folks have no choice BUT to use a primer to trick the anaerobic products into curing. Without it, the products just sit there waiting for any warmth they can get.

Lightly spray one substrate, then apply a thin/almost translucent film of 518, mate your parts, and torque to spec. Don't retorque the next day, you'll break the seal.

Kapich?

Dirty
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:35 PM   #443
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Originally Posted by GSWayne View Post

Is there any problem using Loctite 222 for 3 mm screws that are used to ground a circuit board to an aluminum chassis?
Are threads being used as the primary ground path? Instead of a flat contact area held clamped together with the fasteners I mean.


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Old 02-16-2012, 03:55 PM   #444
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Originally Posted by H96669 View Post

I have here the 7649 Primer (P.N.21347) came with my Loctite 518 "Master Gasket Kit". Great stuff BTW.....tamed them BMW leaks,one more to go!

Is there something similar that would work with both the flange sealers (518 etc) and thread lockers/sealers and comes in a bottle instead of the aerosol???
7649 activator is available in a small bottle. It comes with a brush cap and a pump spray cap. Often used for fiber optics.


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Old 02-17-2012, 02:38 AM   #445
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Originally Posted by DaBit View Post
I am still waiting for a call from a Henkel/Loctite field application engineer
..
So, I am looking for sticky stuff that does:
..
Can you recommend me anything?
follow-up: I was recommended Loctite 4105 'Black tack', which is a rubber-toughened cyanoacrylate. This stuff was too fluid for my application, so I ended up using 5145 'Tempflex'.

Still not ideal imho (takes too long before the glue can resist an accidental touch), but I had to choose something...
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:03 AM   #446
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Originally Posted by DaBit View Post
follow-up: I was recommended Loctite 4105 'Black tack', which is a rubber-toughened cyanoacrylate. This stuff was too fluid for my application, so I ended up using 5145 'Tempflex'.

Still not ideal imho (takes too long before the glue can resist an accidental touch), but I had to choose something...
Maybe one of the UV quick cure products would do better.
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:45 AM   #447
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Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
7649 Primer N works on all anaerobic products (threadlockers, thread sealants, gasket eliminators, retaining compounds) No need to buy anything else.

I was about to say forego the primer in cold temperatures. But your cold and my cold are worlds apart-being in BC vs. Sub-Tropical South Louisiana.

Use of a primer in cold temperatures sort of kick starts the curing process. In super duper uber-cold climates, folks have no choice BUT to use a primer to trick the anaerobic products into curing. Without it, the products just sit there waiting for any warmth they can get.

Lightly spray one substrate, then apply a thin/almost translucent film of 518, mate your parts, and torque to spec. Don't retorque the next day, you'll break the seal.

Kapich?

Dirty
Thanks, I understand what you mean by the torque to specs once. Spent enough time a couple years back digging out specs and application sheets. Large BMW cover has already fooled a few who tought they had the leak fixed and it came back.

But I had to remove all the bolts a few(many) days later, one by one to "never seize" them, something I did not want to do as I installed the cover for obvious reasons. But I like properly installed SS bolts.

2 years no more leaks for me and no more corroding bolts inside/outside the block. Time will tell but Loctite rules.

Another quick one?...I think the primer is also recommended if you have to seal larger gaps and that's exactly the problem of "That" BMW cover at one spot where the head/block meet then the cover goes over all that and then yes...OUR cold.

This:
Cure Speed vs. Activator
Where cure speed is unacceptably long, or large gaps are
present, applying activator to the surface will improve cure
speed.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:34 PM   #448
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Hey Dirty, Probabaly already asked, but I am too lazy to read 15 pages of posts. It is cold in my garage, around 30F. How long does it take Loctite blue to cure to say 70 - 90% strength? The data sheet does not talk about such cold temps.

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Old 02-17-2012, 08:31 PM   #449
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Originally Posted by khpossum View Post
Hey Dirty, Probabaly already asked, but I am too lazy to read 15 pages of posts. It is cold in my garage, around 30F. How long does it take Loctite blue to cure to say 70 - 90% strength? The data sheet does not talk about such cold temps.

KP
If you apply it today, let it sit until April.

I probably wouldn't wait, but if you're a belt and suspenders sort of cat, let it sit overnight and you'd be more than OK.

Dirty
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:43 PM   #450
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Excellent, thanks. It was getting to cold anyway with sun setting. Tomorrow is another day.
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